Braumeister NEXTGEN Build

[matho]

Im going to brew tomorrow

 

[Tony]

 

[kirem]

Im going to brew tomorrow

it's not about the brewing, it's about building techo brewing gear

 

[matho]

it's not about the brewing, it's about building techo brewing gear

that's very true kirem :icon_cheers:

 

[matho]

looks like i still have to work on the top filter, whats happening is that the hole i drilled down the bolt that fits over the center rod is too big and the plate is tilting and not sealing properly



not a big fix, apart from that it is running really well so far just about to finish the first step

cheers matho

 

[matho]

and the boil



just whirlpooling now

 

[matho]

done and dusted, wort in the fermenter, all cleaned up in just over 3 hours

things i have learnt from today

stop the top filter plate from skewing

use hop bags to reduce the amount of turb

make up something so i can rest the malt pipe over the pot for a better sparging method

and electric boils are so quiet

cheers matho

 

[gap]

done and dusted, wort in the fermenter, all cleaned up in just over 3 hours

things i have learnt from today

stop the top filter plate from skewing

use hop bags to reduce the amount of turb

make up something so i can rest the malt pipe over the pot for a better sparging method

and electric boils are so quiet

cheers matho

Great stuff Steve,

I am glad it is doing the job for you after all the hard work constructing it.

Regards

Graeme

 

[MastersBrewery]

great work matho the final word I believe will be in the tasting :chug:

 

[Cocko]

looks like i still have to work on the top filter, whats happening is that the hole i drilled down the bolt that fits over the center rod is too big and the plate is tilting and not sealing properly



not a big fix, apart from that it is running really well so far just about to finish the first step

cheers matho

Hey Mate, out of interest and nothing to do with designing my own h34r:

Are you throttling/controlling the march pump flow in anyway? If you could add control, if you haven't would you?

Cheers

 

[matho]

Hey Mate, out of interest and nothing to do with designing my own h34r:

Are you throttling/controlling the march pump flow in anyway? If you could add control, if you haven't would you?

Cheers

no throttling back at the moment, i am running 3/8 hoses and the hose attachments on the march pump has a ID of about 10mm, i was planning on tapping a thread up the inside of the outlet skin fitting and then put an insert in to reduce the bore, but i don't think i will need it but i might change my mind in the future. If i had more space under the pot a valve would be a good option

cheers steve

edit: being such a quick brew day i had time to take the top filter plate out the the garage and i made up a tube and welded the tube to it, to fix the problem

 

[matho]

great work matho the final word I believe will be in the tasting :chug:

the recipe that i brewed today is very well known to me and its tasting good already, that how i knew there was something wrong with the last batch

it was my easiest brewday ever

cheers matho

 

[Tanga]

Keen to hear how the beer ended up Matho?

Hopefully good as I have all the parts I need for my manual version (or they're in the mail) . Mine is probably closer to Tim F's last iteration though (but with the wort traveling down). Can't wait until she's up and running. Should be pics some time after Christmas.

 

[matho]

yeah tanga all is good, I'm still working on the top filter plate, because during the last tests the plate still bent, worked out that the filter material is too fine and clogs, once it clogs the pump has enough power to push the plate up.
I have some SS flyscreen which I am going to try, also when i get time ill get to Ikea and get some splater guards to try out. I'm also going to get an insert on the outlet of the pump to throtle it back a bit. Ill get it sortd but I haven't had much time lately

cheers matho

 

[Tanga]

Sounds good. Let us know how the S/S mesh goes, as that and the washers are all I'm waiting on. I'm attaching the mesh to the pot with a spring form cake tin with a closed diameter just smaller than the lip of the inner pot (ie malt pipe). Here's hoping this ghetto setup can support 3kg of grain.

PS. Kmart have splatter guards too.

 

[matho]

I thought I would fix up the ZIP file to include the connection pdf and the proper program so it is not spread across a few pages there is nothing new in this ZIP

THE BRAUMISER BUILD

View attachment The_Braumiser_build.zip

Also for those that don't know I'm in the process making a controller using an arduino I have finished the hardware side of things now i have to start writing up a program for it



cheers matho

 

[Maheel]

 

[blotto]

I now have all the gear to make your Braumiser V1.01

I started the PCB's yesterday but I think I used magazine paper that was too thick and was fairly water resistant, I couldnt get a clean image despite trying three times. After an internet search I have found that thinner paper might be the go, so I have used a catalogue out of todays paper and I hope that will transfer the image better. Unfortunately Im now at work and wont be able to test it until I get home in 9 days. Otherwise I see Jaycar has some paper that is made to do PCB transfers but it's a little more expensive than second hand pamphlet paper out of the news paper.

Im going to use the BTA16-600C triac to switch a 240V 15A relay which in turn will run the 3000W element so Im hoping that the tiny heat sink that Jaycar sold me will do the job, what do you think matho will the BTA16-600C triac still need a big heat sink?

Cheers

Snow

 

[matho]

good to hear your having a go, the tracks aren't ever going to be perfect but with a little care they come out ok, I have a PCB etch resistant pen to do touch ups to the tracks before i etch, so it might pay to get one of those.

Probably wouldn't need a very big heatsink if you are going to switch a relay, one thing you have to look out for is I have a switching "window" of 2.5 seconds so it will be ON from all the time to being off in a 2.5 second cycle, so when the temp is getting close to the set temp the relay will be switching on and off a fair bit, it shouldn't be too much of a problem only a bit noisy.

the BTA-16-600c should be able to handle the 12.5 amps if its connected to a heatsink like THIS one. If you look at the spec sheet for it at 13 amps steady state it will be dissipating 15w, now if you start switching the power dissipation goes up so if you pick a heatsink that will give you a temperature rise to 50 deg at an ambient temp of 25 deg (eg a 25 deg rise) then you should still be in the safe zone when switching.

View attachment BTA16_600C.pdf

I have a 1750w element and i use THIS one and it gets to about 65 deg under a hot pot.

you could always go down this route 40 Amp SSR you could jumper out resistor R1 on the output board and wire the SSR inputs straight to the "ac out" terminal block it should have enough volts to drive a SSR

cheers matho

 

[blotto]

Thanks matho

I looked into the pens today as I noticed that some of your boards in the build zip looked touched up in sections. Ill be grabbing one on break.
I was thinking that the relay lag might have caused some problems I might look into the heatsink again.

Cool :icon_cheers: