Braumeister NEXTGEN Build

Discussion in 'DIY Projects' started by matho, 11/9/11.

 

  1. lehtinel

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    Posted 9/9/16
    Next brew is gonna be a Guinness clone. Ingredients already arrived so as soon as I can find the time I'll get it going. First brew, K.I.S.S IPA now in secondary fermentation under the house @ 14c, with 50g Centennial hops.
     
  2. Boxcar

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    Posted 7/6/17
    Picking up an old thread as I haven't found a new/continuation thread. If one exists, apologies in advance.

    I didn't see these items mentioned in the 90+ pages, but some may find them interesting...

    14" Silicone gasket from Aliexpress (other sizes available) - seems well suited for Malt Pipe.
    [​IMG]

    Red Silicone Gasket - (ebay) (make any size gasket you want)
    [​IMG]

    Flat silicone strip (eBay) for sealing holes in the Malt Pipe (holes around perimeter at different levels to do different batch sizes with a single pipe)
    [​IMG]


    Blichmann's Boilcoil will fit many vendors' standard kettles (including those from SSBT, Amcyl, etc..) - powerful enough not to require a second coil within the malt pipe.
    [​IMG]

    If you'd rather not make your own controller, you can use Grainfather Connect (Bluetooth) with third-party elements (of any wattage) by making a simple solid state switching box to control power switching to the heater. Just DC-AC SSR (of suitable current handling capacity) and then use a DC power adapter plugged into the GF's heater-out power connection to trigger it. The GF controls output power via ON/OFF cycles determined by PID.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: 11/6/17
  3. malt junkie

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    Posted 7/6/17
    bluetooth for a data is a little sucky. Therefore the next generation of the controller will be wifi, I have the prototype on the work bench and will start testing next week.

    cheers
     
  4. Boxcar

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    Posted 12/6/17
    I'm eager to see how your controller pans out, especially on the front end. As far as I'm concerned, the back end control circuitry can always come in an easier to install package for novices but the most difficult and time-consuming part of a really polished solution is what most people ignore or simply forget about, the front end.

    I'm sticking to the GF Connect controller because it's polished and has a great software stack under regular development. I'd much prefer WiFI if for no other reason than to concurrently connect to the controller from multiple devices at once - I'd use one locally for a display and another remotely. But BT will work in a pinch as the device doesn't need to be connected to the controller to manage any part of the mash/boil, so it's OK to make/break the pair at any time.

    I also don't have time to screw around maintaining a controller. :) IMO, there's nothing out there from anyone right now that truly comes close (polish and in a finished state), not even Speidel's solution. On the "get your hands a little dirty," the front-runners, again IMO, are CraftBeerPi and soon (possibly) BrewPi Spark (v3 with software in development).
     
  5. malt junkie

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    Posted 13/6/17
    I follow your thinking, how ever using a pi (micro computer) to run a wee little brewery is a kin to installing a nuclear reactor to power same. Micro controllers have their place and this is it. I gave up watching Brewpi spark dev after the first year of little head way, that may well have changed by now and Elco has a good track record on producing a quality UI and finish so for me the spark in the near future.
     
  6. eresh666

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    Posted 26/7/17
  7. zwitter

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    Posted 27/7/17
    Hi eresh666

    Really that is something only you can answer.
    Mine has two of elements like their "double ring ones" and the holes are bigger than 3/8. I bought them locally from Tobins and bent them to shape. They cost about $100 each delivered.

    James
    Zwitter

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
     
  8. zwitter

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    Posted 27/7/17
    Hi again eresh666

    How big is your pot?
    Mine is 50 litres and Imstarted with one 2400w element and it was very slow to heat and boil was weak. I resorted to an over the side 2400 second element. About a month back I finally finished installing a second element in the base same as first. So now I have 4800 watts and it is quick to heat up and the boil is very good!

    The pot probably at mavimum would only have 30 litres in it but it needed more than 2400watts.

    If you have the latest version of the Braumiser controller it has 2 SSRs to run second element from a different circuit. I have a 40 amp circuit for a welder so can run it no problems.

    James
    Zwitter


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
     
  9. eresh666

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    Posted 27/7/17
    Thanks Zwitter, yep 50L keggle however aware of the slow boil given I use a similar element (side entry) for BIAB. Just checking out tobins website now.
     
  10. Boxcar

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    Posted 27/7/17
    Ask if they can do greater than 2400W by going 3 loops. Otherwise, you might check prices on a Blichmann BoilCoil which would offer about 4500W for a 50L pot (13.4" outside diameter for the element). The BoilCoil comes with all mounting hardware, long power cable and L6-30P plug (which you likely have to change for AUS or install L6-30R receptacle somewhere with 30 amp min service)
     
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  11. malt junkie

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    Posted 30/7/17
    1501417556595.jpg
    Lets call it technical issues!
    Closest 1 of the first 10 to ever be made ( thanks matho) and still working!
    Next we have a 2.1 that let out a puff of smoke. (I got this covered)
    Then is Lael's kit that's been tested but never fired up a brew.
    The tiny board on the end is the next iteration.
    Have my work cut out for me. Better get some sleep.
     
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  12. Meddo

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    Posted 31/7/17
    I recently bought two of these Romar ring elements but haven't installed them yet. Standard they come with 1" BSP bases which are just over 33 mm outer diameter on the threads (you can Google the exact conversion if you need it) - they'll need a 34 mm hole in the pot wall to install.

    You can request larger bases if you prefer but they may need to be ordered in and would probably add to the price. Give them a ring, they're quite helpful - but make sure you send a diagram if you want something non-standard to make sure nothing gets lost in translation over the phone.

    Edit: sorry, I misread your question. Perhaps the base isn't included as standard, might be an easier option to get the element with one though if you're not confident with the glands.

    Pic of mine:
    IMG_0089.jpg
     
    Last edited: 31/7/17
  13. rsmallri

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    Posted 3/8/17
    What wattage and diameter is that? Also price if you don't mind me asking?
     
  14. malt junkie

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    Posted 3/8/17
    Issues loading the latest sketch from git hub. Now I've flashed lots of boards over the last few years but this has me stumped. And it is a flashing issue as I tested with Lael's mega (that doesn't fit the case being used for a mates controller) and my original uno with 16x2 LCD, Everything works. I flashed a new arduino (3x Arduino Uno rev 3 for 20x4 LCD) and everything but heater will come on. And I made the right selections because the pump pin out is unique to Matho's board and it works. I've had a rudimentary look over the sketch, all looks fine. Using all the latest stuff as my windows pc had issues and died.

    Can some one send me their copy of the ArdBir 2.83 sketch?

    Be muchly appreciated


    Mike
     
  15. dumpa

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  16. malt junkie

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    Posted 3/8/17
  17. Meddo

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    Posted 4/8/17
    2400W, I think 390 mm diameter. Can't remember exact price but was probably around $80 each give or take. Give them a bell if you're interested and they'll let you know specs and price. They also do them as straight/folded versions and can be bent to shape as required - they made up these for me for a similar price to use in a previous version of my rig:

    Bent kettle elements.jpg
     
  18. buggybouy

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    Posted 7/11/17
    DSC_0833.JPG DSC_0834.JPG DSC_0835.JPG DSC_0836.JPG DSC_0837.JPG DSC_0838.JPG DSC_0839.JPG DSC_0840.JPG DSC_0841.JPG Just thought you might want to look at my version of the Braumeister. Installed a couple of 3 way valves so I had pumping/dumping options, works well on the outlet when getting a whirlpool going during the chilling phase.
     
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