Braumeister NEXTGEN Build

[Ferg]

The legs are 38mm ss tube with some adjustafoot fittings on one end and a circle plate with three holes welded onto the other end. I stud welded some M5x12 studs onto the base of the pot to attach the legs.

The screen is a custom that I got made at work. 2mm stainless, 304, 2B. 3mm holes at 5mm pitch. It has some tube welded into the centres which gives quite a tight fit around the 12mm centre rod.

The element is a U-bend-it from Romar elements (great to deal with), when I bought it I asked for some specs and got the following:

• element would be 2400mm long aprox which would give us a watts density of 30w/sq"
• element would be formed in a circle with an OD of 380mm and ends bent for bottom mounting
• element is made from Incoloy 800 tube
• glands are brass and soldered on with silver solder that DOES NOT contain lead zinc or cadmium

 

[jerchappy]

Looks sweet Ferg! I have a query i hope someone may help with. Almost finished wiring up Laels brauduino kit & using a 19l big W malt pipe into a 50 l outer pot. To work with pre-existing fittings for 3way tap & sight glass i am thinking of installing the elememt to sit above these- ie. Element coil from would sit 6cm at lowest point and i guess another 6 cm or so for the element. My question is for those with similar setups in standard grain bill- roughly how high does the liquid sit in outer pot with reverse flow malt pipe? I'd guess it would depend on flow rates as well but some idea would be nice! Cheers, Jerome

 

[jerchappy]

Looks sweet Ferg! I have a query i hope someone may help with. Almost finished wiring up Laels brauduino kit & using a 19l big W malt pipe into a 50 l outer pot. To work with pre-existing fittings for 3way tap & sight glass i am thinking of installing the elememt to sit above these- ie. Element coil from would sit 6cm at lowest point and i guess another 6 cm or so for the element. My question is for those with similar setups in standard grain bill- roughly how high does the liquid sit in outer pot with reverse flow malt pipe? I'd guess it would depend on flow rates as well but some idea would be nice! Cheers, Jerome

 

[angus_grant]

Depending on the dimensions of your outer pot, you would require a very high mash in volume to keep the heating element covered during recirculation

My pot is 40cm * 40cm 50L pot (19L Big W malt pipe) and I mash in with 25L and this only just sits above my heating element by couple of cms when heating up and recirculating for mash in. From memory my element sits about 7 cms at highest point above bottom of the pot.

I know for my big grain bills (6kgs) the mash in water volume is almost at the top of the malt pipe with grain in. This would make it hard to mash out as you have to take the top filter off to hoist out the malt pipe for sparging.

I think you'd be pushing it having your element at 12cm high in the pot.

You should be able to calculate your volumes using the spreadsheet in this thread. somewhere......

 

[jerchappy]

Great just the info i needed thanks. Will aim for a low profile and work around the fittings cheers. And will check out the spreadsheet

 

[dumpa]

Hello guys,

I bought an original BM50 spare gasket in order to build customized malt pipe. If I want to use this gasket, the malt pipe will be 350mm in diameter, is that right? Which is the thickness of the malt pipe stainless tube?

Tks

http://www.homebrewwest.ie/malt-pipe-gasket-braumeister-50-litres-3112-p.asp

 

[MastersBrewery]

yep 350mm on the BM 50 malt pipe

 

[bionut]

Hello,
i am planning a similar build and i have a little question. The wort is very clear after recirculation, but when you lift the malt pipe at the end of the mash doesn't the draining wort turn cloudy, like when you pull the biab bag out?

 

[m3taL]

So Instead of working today......... well i done some work but have sat here reading most of this.... toward the end i skipped a bit, which i will go back and read later on.

Iv Sourced a 20L Malt Pipe and strainers/filters and the top bar.
Iv got quote for my element coming trying to go 3000-4000w as iv got 40amps available for my current 3v ( runs 2 x 3600w elements in HLT and boil then 2200w in herms unit)

Now things i wanted to see if others have done....

Has any one used a Keg with the BM20 Malt Pipe. Im concerned that there may be too much of a sump in the bottom by the time you have the dead-space in the maltpipe and the domed bit on the bottom of the keg, But thinking it would be ok may just need a bigger volume. I see no issue with it sealing properly, only with the fact it will make the "Sump" volume larger.

Pump wise are the Silver pumps powerful enough? has any one used them? Iv got 3 here for my 3v system so was going to retro fit one of them up.

Not planning on using the auto control, Going to mount a Pid in the box underneath and a Pump Switch, Wondering if the pump needs to have a rest period for the malt to settle?

I Built my 3v herms (Separate herms unit) approx 2 years ago but lack of time at the moment to use it, By the time i set it up clean it and get it ready to run, then brew and clean etc its just a long process so thinking this may be a nice single vessel system to make a keg brew at a time. The malt pipe on the BM is like my main reason for wanting a BM in the first place, i like the idea of how it works and ease of cleanup etc.

The main reason behind using a 50L Keg is that i have a spare one, and they are strong so by the time i put the pump holes, element holes and the Malt pipe bar in im sure it will be strong enough. the Stainless pots iv seen will need re-reinforcement and i cant kick it when its not working properly....

Hoping to get the malt pipe tomorrow so i can work out the rest of the build around it. Pics will follow!

 

[MastersBrewery]

For single batch anything over 2400-3000w is over kill big time. And some where on here is a bloke who did a BM clone in a keg. Maybe in the pages you skipped.

 

[m3taL]

For single batch anything over 2400-3000w is over kill big time. And some where on here is a bloke who did a BM clone in a keg. Maybe in the pages you skipped.

Cheers I'll read through some more, Def will be 3000w min as im used of boiling on 3600w at the moment in my current keggle last electric keggle i had with a 2400w element didnt boil hard enough for my liking but agree 4000w is going to probably be way too much....

 

[conjob]

Greetings gentlemen,
I bought one of laels controller kits months ago in anticipation of a future build.

I've just started buying parts (so far just a 50L and 2x19L big w pots) for my build.

Thanks to all who have contributed for your advice. I'm up to page 59 of this thread so far and i think i've found a source for pretty much everything except filter plates.

My understanding is if i can find 2mm stainless (possibly thinner for bottom plate) with 2mm perforations then i don't need any further filtration/mesh or reinforcement. Have i understood this correctly?

Has anyone found a good source for filter plates for a big W pot malt pipe? I live in Sydney if that makes a difference.

Also i still don't 100% understand the securing of the bottom filter plate. Does it just fit over the threaded rod and otherwise move completely freely (kept square by the fitting) or is it stopped somewhere? And if stopped, in which direction (i.e. upper limit or lower limit)?

 

[NealK]

http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/79602-another-braumeister-inspired-system/#
Check out the thread above and you can see a couple of different ways of doing it.

 

[zwitter]

Hi and you are in the right place

Mine is a 50litre pot and a bigW 19litre malt pipe.
I bought a few bits of plate for the filtre and then a metre odd of stainless mesh to go over the plates.
I started with a thin perforated plate with bracing and it worked ok. Now I have a thicker top plate with the mesh under neath.

The bottom plate does just sit but I actually made a bit of stainless pipe that slides down the threaded rod and fit a nut to hold it in place then top plates and another nut.
I am planning to make a tube the right length so only need one nut on the top as when pulling malt out it is very hot to undo the nuts. Another option would be a weight that would slide down the threaded rod or a stainless spring would also work.
I have tried to buy eyelets to make the hole more robust. As yet it is still under perfection.

The system works though and he only way to get it right is to try it out.
Use google and yellow pages. I got stainless plate in prospect and mesh in medowbank.


James


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[Hpal]

Yep it is a cool name so braumiser it is

BRAUMISER.jpg

cheers matho

Coulda called it the Mathlab

 

[conjob]

twitter and Neal K, thanks for the suggestions.

Looks like there is no prefabbed solution yet, ill have to figure it out like everyone else.

 

[lespaul]

Suppose i need to get this project completed.

Just ordered all the nuts, bolts, wingnuts, seals, threaded rod etc.

My main road block has been the cost of the stand/legs.

Can any welders advise if these legs (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mirage-Quality-Heavy-Duty-Stainless-Steel-Legs-Adjustable-150mm-165mm-/181824092496?hash=item2a558f7950:g:tMoAAOSwMmBVwaRw) can be welded onto the pot or a stand has to be made from them?

i cant get a quote for welding for less than $300... hopefully if i buy the legs the welding will be cheaper -_-

Thanks

 

[lespaul]

also to who ever recommended these guys https://www.boltsnutsscrewsonline.com/ thanks, they were a bargain!!

 

[m3taL]

Iv done a bit more on mine, I dont a test run with grain and found using allthread the whole way the grain stuck to the thread when i removed the pipe... so i replaced my thread with some 12mm roundbar and tig welded 60mm of thread on the top

 

[m3taL]

The legs are 38mm ss tube with some adjustafoot fittings on one end and a circle plate with three holes welded onto the other end. I stud welded some M5x12 studs onto the base of the pot to attach the legs.

The screen is a custom that I got made at work. 2mm stainless, 304, 2B. 3mm holes at 5mm pitch. It has some tube welded into the centres which gives quite a tight fit around the 12mm centre rod.

The element is a U-bend-it from Romar elements (great to deal with), when I bought it I asked for some specs and got the following:

• element would be 2400mm long aprox which would give us a watts density of 30w/sq"
• element would be formed in a circle with an OD of 380mm and ends bent for bottom mounting
• element is made from Incoloy 800 tube
• glands are brass and soldered on with silver solder that DOES NOT contain lead zinc or cadmium

Picked my Element up on Thursday went out to pick it up and met the guys there. mine was 380mm round 3800w Have just installed it and will wire it up tomorrow to give it a run... the element is quite easy to adjust here and there as required and sits very nicely in my vessel.

Reccomend Romar Elements 100%