Edak
BrauShnizzleMyNizzle
Haven't got to my PC to get the files for you yet, but my design is also based on the seeeduino stalker v2 which has a RTC and wireless port. If you can get your hands on one of those you are in business!
Braumeister NEXTGEN Build
- Thread starter matho
- Start date
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Edak
BrauShnizzleMyNizzle
I am thinking, if I have the spare time I might design my PCB for the spark core as the seeeduino stalker I buy is discontinued and my designs won't help anyone else. Perhaps one could change the official brauduino boards to accommodate a spark core instead of being a shield. Wireless logging and monitoring anyone?
MastersBrewery
Journeyman, the learning never stops
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- 7/6/11
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just checked ebay there are some still available though at $43 or so
Edak
BrauShnizzleMyNizzle
Remember I am talking about v2.0 of the stalker not 2.1...
Edak
BrauShnizzleMyNizzle
The real time clocks are different. V 2.0 has a supercapacitor rather than a battery
Edak
BrauShnizzleMyNizzle
Well I drew up a spark version of the PCB this evening and will post it tomorrow. Does anyone actually have a spark core?
Edak
BrauShnizzleMyNizzle
Pinout, size, voltages and power connects to the board now but you pretty much summed it up. There are very few digital pins on the spark and not all are 5v tolerant, plus two of which are used for i2c. I didn't want to redesign my front panel (aka keep it simple) so I have had to use analog inputs for my buttons. Normally I would multiplex buttons to analog inputs using R-2R ladder but I would need to solder resistors to the front panel and didn't want to do that either. There are actually a few little hurdles to jump.
Edak
BrauShnizzleMyNizzle
Couldn't sleep this morning so I finished it off and put on the Spark logo, not exactly high-res but looks okay.
EDIT: Oh and I gave it a name - SparkBrau!
EDIT: Oh and I gave it a name - SparkBrau!
Edak
BrauShnizzleMyNizzle
I imagine that it will require the libraries to be touched up a bit and an overall code test will be required, but given that spark is 'arduino compatible' I believe most of it will work okay. I don't think I can test/compile without an actual device though so I can't tell for sure.
Remember again that my code is different to yours and ardbir.
Remember again that my code is different to yours and ardbir.
Yeah, I know. I was mentioning cause I was reading this thread over at the spark core site and wondering what if any impact it would have.
https://community.spark.io/t/code-size-reduction/1344/6.
https://community.spark.io/t/code-size-reduction/1344/6.
Edak
BrauShnizzleMyNizzle
Not worried much...
Frankenbrew will rise again, the new build should start in the next month or two.
This version will use a stockpot as a MP with a CamLock sealing it to the return wort flow/base of urn. The 3Kw heating element will be under the base of the MP/stockpot.
The element is under PID control and should be pulsing on and off as the temperature comes up to the setpoint.
To avoid hot spots, charring and so on how big a gap should I have between the base of the MP/stockpot and the top of the element?
The element is circular would the be any advantage in having the pump feed in the centre of the circle ensuring flow over the element?
Atb. Aamcle
This version will use a stockpot as a MP with a CamLock sealing it to the return wort flow/base of urn. The 3Kw heating element will be under the base of the MP/stockpot.
The element is under PID control and should be pulsing on and off as the temperature comes up to the setpoint.
To avoid hot spots, charring and so on how big a gap should I have between the base of the MP/stockpot and the top of the element?
The element is circular would the be any advantage in having the pump feed in the centre of the circle ensuring flow over the element?
Atb. Aamcle
claypot
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- 9/5/11
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Hey All,
First of all thanks to all who have gone before and giving your time to report back here.
Here a couple of things I have done on my rig that may suit others looking for other options.
For the bottom malt pipe seal I used a pressure cooker seal from eBay -$5 or so. You would need to be handy with a MIG welder but.
For the top clamp I used a removable brace. Will try to upload pics.
I've used a 3 way valve - $30 eBay to divert to counter flow chiller after boil. All in all it looks a lot more shitier than I'd planned but it wasn't making beer while I deliberated over how to make it look better!
I've been collecting parts for ages now and often think I should of just bought one. But where's the fun in that! All the stainless I had at home, so if you had to buy it, it may not be cost effective.
Now to try and attach pics, Cheers,
First of all thanks to all who have gone before and giving your time to report back here.
Here a couple of things I have done on my rig that may suit others looking for other options.
For the bottom malt pipe seal I used a pressure cooker seal from eBay -$5 or so. You would need to be handy with a MIG welder but.
For the top clamp I used a removable brace. Will try to upload pics.
I've used a 3 way valve - $30 eBay to divert to counter flow chiller after boil. All in all it looks a lot more shitier than I'd planned but it wasn't making beer while I deliberated over how to make it look better!
I've been collecting parts for ages now and often think I should of just bought one. But where's the fun in that! All the stainless I had at home, so if you had to buy it, it may not be cost effective.
Now to try and attach pics, Cheers,
Nice build clay pot, there's always time to pretty it up will you're enjoying a beer you brewed on it later :chug: , or just drink more beer and you won't care.
I've been collecting bits too and am getting ready to start cutting and drilling. Thanks to Lael for supplying and offering advice on the controller kit that is built and ready to go.
I've read the full thread a couple of times now and wanted to get some clarification/advice if possible on a couple of points.
1 - Many discussions have addressed the top filter plate but I'm a little foggy on the bottom plate, pros and cons of 'floating' vs fixed
2 - My pot combination, 50L outer, 25L malt pipe gives 37mm gap on either side for skin fitting and element. Is this plenty to comfortably fit the element or should I plan for a challenge?
3 - I biab with no whirlpool currently, I am planning on a 90 degree elbow on inside of outlet valve in side of pot to allow the pump to be redirected to whirlpool. Will this work?
4 - I have access to a 120mm hole saw which will simplify cutting the opening in the malt pipe (320mm diameter), I figure this should be plenty to drain the mp and the bottom filter is spreading the flow evenly anyway, Does this sound ok?
All advice is much appreciated, I've been following many great looking builds just looking to combine the ideas into something that will work for my gear.
Cheers :beer:
I've been collecting bits too and am getting ready to start cutting and drilling. Thanks to Lael for supplying and offering advice on the controller kit that is built and ready to go.
I've read the full thread a couple of times now and wanted to get some clarification/advice if possible on a couple of points.
1 - Many discussions have addressed the top filter plate but I'm a little foggy on the bottom plate, pros and cons of 'floating' vs fixed
2 - My pot combination, 50L outer, 25L malt pipe gives 37mm gap on either side for skin fitting and element. Is this plenty to comfortably fit the element or should I plan for a challenge?
3 - I biab with no whirlpool currently, I am planning on a 90 degree elbow on inside of outlet valve in side of pot to allow the pump to be redirected to whirlpool. Will this work?
4 - I have access to a 120mm hole saw which will simplify cutting the opening in the malt pipe (320mm diameter), I figure this should be plenty to drain the mp and the bottom filter is spreading the flow evenly anyway, Does this sound ok?
All advice is much appreciated, I've been following many great looking builds just looking to combine the ideas into something that will work for my gear.
Cheers :beer:
blotto
Well-Known Member
Hi everyone,
Here is my finished unit, it's taken me about two and a half years of working on it every now and then, thanks to all of you who went before me and gave me inspiration and ideas.
I still have some small adjustments to make like maybe some reinforcing of the top plate which is 2mm and as you can see in my malt pipe I'm losing maybe 50 mm of space down the bottom due to the method I've used to secure the rod but I was sick of this build dragging on and just wanted it done. I think I might make a new unit out of a keg so I can get a better malt pipe in there but I'll see how much malt I can fit in this one first and might rethink how I've secured the rod before that. The element is a 3kw one off ebay I had to bend it so it sits flush on the edges of my main pot it seems to still be working fine for the moment.
Here is my finished unit, it's taken me about two and a half years of working on it every now and then, thanks to all of you who went before me and gave me inspiration and ideas.
I still have some small adjustments to make like maybe some reinforcing of the top plate which is 2mm and as you can see in my malt pipe I'm losing maybe 50 mm of space down the bottom due to the method I've used to secure the rod but I was sick of this build dragging on and just wanted it done. I think I might make a new unit out of a keg so I can get a better malt pipe in there but I'll see how much malt I can fit in this one first and might rethink how I've secured the rod before that. The element is a 3kw one off ebay I had to bend it so it sits flush on the edges of my main pot it seems to still be working fine for the moment.
