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Braumeister NEXTGEN Build

Discussion in 'DIY Projects' started by matho, 11/9/11.

 

  1. Pirate323i

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    Posted 25/5/14
    Hmm, yes I get what you mean about expensive cheap beer... And yep have found that thread, looks like it will make interesting reading... I have been lucky enough to secure one of lael's last controller kits! So am definitly invested in my BrauMiser. :)
     
  2. digger

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    Posted 29/5/14
    Hrm I just found my controller (brauduino) the other day whilst cleaning up and thought "While it's cooler/darker earlier why not knock some unfinished projects out!" I apologise in advance as I haven't been following the thread for quite a while (and it's been a while since I constructed the controller as well) so please bear with me.

    Everything's assembled from the controller point of view but now faced with the decision of which scenario/path I go down:

    - I could use the 40l Crown urn (concealed element) as the main pot (and if so I have to work out how I would go about that considering I can't use the center of the vessel for attachments). This option means less fabrication work which would save money from needing to buy tools but may have a degree of difficulty I'm not comfortable with.
    - I could buy a 70l pot, the required tools to cut it etc

    As far as the malt pipe goes I'm in two minds.
    Ideally I would like the option to make a 'small/half' batch malt pipe for it as well, has anyone tried this/thought about it? (end with say 9L or a dozen or so bottles for test/pilot brews). So is an option to buy a 15-20l pot for the pilot batches and a 50l pot for single brews a possibility?

    I've got no worries putting stuff together, the fabrication part of it all I'm uncomfortable with (and lacking tools for the most part) so Ideally as close to 'off the shelf' as I can get is preferred (unless someone is willing to cut these for me at my cost up front?!).

    Thoughts? Recommendations? (abuse for not reading every word to date?)
     
  3. Pirate323i

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    Posted 31/5/14
    DiggeR, Matho's original Braumiser is about that size... Start reading from the beginning... :)
     
  4. digger

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    Posted 1/6/14
    I've spent a while going over what I missed (still a lot to go!) but really the main question now is has anyone tried to adapt the concealed element crown urn for it? if so how did they do it.
    I have the ability to build a larger unit but ultimately the design of it isn't something I have the time to do (nor the tools really for the fab currently) so ultimately trying to avoid that. I have all fittings etc to complete it but my 2 choices (if going from scratch) would be finding detailed plans to follow for pots or finding someone willing to knock it all together and either ship or pickup. Controller is not an issue. Filter screens I would easily source as well.

    Time vs Cost at the moment really. Time to get brewing in a safer/easier setup that my existing biab or just grab a braumeister 20L for convenience and work on a 9l pilot braumeiser over however long it will take!
     
  5. lael

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    Posted 1/6/14
    I'm not sure on the concealed element urn. I thought someone was posting about one not long ago? Might be a different thread. All depends on if you can avoid the element.

    What dimensions is the pot?
     
  6. MastersBrewery

    Journeyman, the learning never stops

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    Posted 2/6/14
    I have a 36l urn I was looking at for a while, and it is possible to put a centre rod through it the problem then becomes it's seal to the vessel when tightening down the Malt pipe, so I abandoned the idea. A 50l outer with a Big W pot will do a quick 20L version, then a second smaller malt pipe of say 12L. But note I'd say your going to need to have 2 sets of filter plates which is a right pain. Put your location in your profile you may live closer to someone who has built one or is like you in the process

    MB
     
  7. xredwood

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    Posted 2/6/14
  8. mojonojo

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    Posted 2/6/14
    Xander could you put together a final parts list, as from the photos your setup seems different from the diagram you provided
     
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  9. hotmelt

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    Posted 3/6/14
  10. xredwood

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  11. mojonojo

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    Posted 3/6/14
    THANKS XANDER!

    I essentially have all the parts in house (Apart from the plumbing and screens) including the matho controller so i might get on the case in the next few weeks.
     
  12. MastersBrewery

    Journeyman, the learning never stops

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    Posted 3/6/14
    waiting on fabricators...... -_-



    MB
     
  13. digger

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    Posted 5/6/14
    sadly the concealed element in a Crown 40L is smack bang in the centre. Dimension wise it's 34cm wide and 49cm deep (internal measurements). Have included some pics underside and inside to show the size of the element itself. The entire centre ring is the element. The extra bit is the thermister for the urns temp control and the other bit is it's cover/cage (excuse the mess, it's relatively easy to clean and I didn't clean it more than a rinse last brew day).

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/qu4x1mc7pcptf8f/2014-06-06%2001.29.26.jpg
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/3vbe32l7cr73o3f/2014-06-06%2001.29.11.jpg
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/kh8pp2lilayeonk/2014-06-06%2001.28.48.jpg
     
  14. Edak

    BrauShnizzleMyNizzle

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    Posted 12/6/14
    Finally fitted my own design Brauboard to my system, works a damn charm and is nice and compact! This is actually the most basic board I have ever designed, though it's the first I have done at home with freeware tools :)

    Very happy with it :)

    IMG_20140612_185851.jpg

    IMG_20140612_185912.jpg

    shield_v1p1.png
     
  15. MastersBrewery

    Journeyman, the learning never stops

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    Posted 12/6/14
    Edak, I gotta say mate compact, xbee and purple. Mate that is awesome, Lael was only just saying and I was thinking, this would be great to run from your phone. I take it there would be no major changes from current code.
    Now my project in well under way you buggers all decide to bring out so many extra cool bits! hate you!! all!! but have to love it!

    MB
     
  16. dca

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    Posted 12/6/14
    Edak - Looks good at first glance... I like the idea of hardwired sensor and SSR. Connectors are fine, but add cost and failure points. Any chance you're willing to share SRC files our Gerber's? I have 20 yrs of PCB / h/w experience, but a lack of time.

    Another topic...I read all xxx pages of the Aussie & US threads about this great community effort over the last few wks.

    I am considering the pros/ cons of a 2V vs. 1V system. Ala...BM vs. BE systems.

    Question: Why is the large hole/strainer on the bottom needed? The pump is still flowing out of that small pipe/hole in the bottom. Would still drain/sparge fine with a smaller orifice.

    Maybe I am missing something... I hear about channeling, etc. I could be just missing it, but how it's the lower strainer acting like a diffuser?... I am not getting that part of it.

    That is where maybe Davide's cone design may be a good idea, but losing volume as a result.

    I am looking for simple design while balancing cost.

    Please advise your thoughts...

    Thanks to all who brought this effort as far as it has come... keep up the good work!

    Dave A.
     
  17. Edak

    BrauShnizzleMyNizzle

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    Posted 13/6/14
    Hey Dave,
    I would be happy to share my design files. PM me your email.

    WRT the pump outlet and the lower filter I am guessing it's a case of fluid dynamics. If you were to blow air at the bottom of a strainer there would be some dispersion of the flow in a sidewards manner hence distributing the pressure more evenly across the base of the grain bed. Also when sparging if you have a small exit hole then flow will naturally travel via the easiest path and some of the grain won't wash. This is the reason why a mash tun has a false bottom.
     
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  18. dca

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    Posted 13/6/14
    Thanks, Edak! PM sent...

    I guess it diffuses it somewhat, but my guess is it only diffuses from 1/2"-1" pump inlet (1.25 - 2.5 cm) to maybe a few inches or so (~10cm). I am an EE (sparky:), not an Mech Eng, but I am thinking a smaller hole in the bottom would not change things too much. Adding a non-clogging diffuser cap that attaches to the pump outlet may serve that purpose, if needed.

    I realize the format used by many here mimics the BM, but if you look at the BrewEasy (BE), it uses an AutoSparge, which just keep the water topped up on the grain bed sitting on top of a false bottom, which then drains out of a ball valve into the brew kettle. So, kind of like an inverted BM system. They do say it is not meant to be unattended, and the top layer of grain should be raked/stirred occasionally to assure an even mash distribution.

    Just curious about various design approaches, and trying to understand pros/cons vs. effort/price.

    Thanks,
    Dave
     
  19. lael

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    Posted 13/6/14
    The big advantage of a reverse flow system ala braumeister is that you won't get stuck sparges etc as you have the grain bed flowing during mashing. It can't overflow and make a mess. Unattended mashing FTW.
     
  20. dca

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    Posted 13/6/14
    OK, good points made. The AutoSparge works like a toilet ball valve and limits or turns off the flow when the level gets too high, and it is a closed system when used in a BE type setup. It can only work to limit 10 psi max.

    That said, even though it would be less fab work to build a BE system, I am beginning to think the better exposure / mixing of the grain bed like a BM system would improve efficiency of the process, and better automation as you have said.
     

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