Braumeister NEXTGEN Build

[blotto]

Top plate started bending straight away so had to pause for a few quick mods and the brew went really well after that.

 

[Edak]

Yeah it generates a lot of pressure! I am impressed that you could improvise at such short notice. Well done

 

[blotto]

Thanks Edak :icon_cheers:

For such a quick fix it worked surprisingly well, except the T piece with the barb fitting would fall over in the pump breaks so I had to be there to hold it up I'll fab up something more permanent before next brew.

 

[lael]

I would highly recommend edaks solution of bain Marie / gastronorm dividers. Works very well.

 

[blotto]

I'll have a look lael cheers mate.

 

[Edak]

I would highly recommend edaks solution of bain Marie / gastronorm dividers. Works very well.

Cheers mate. They just seem to work and fit perfectly. Mine have started to bend slightly but do the job perfectly. I do have a couple of spares just in case.

 

[peterl1981]

Hi guys i'm about to buy a sheet of perforated stainless steel sheet for false bottom in my new braumeister..

Just wondering if a 2mm hole and 2mm think would do the trick?

or would a 3mm hole be better?? or maybe 2.5 hole is 2mm thick enough?

cheers
peter

 

[lael]

As large an open area as possible. 2mm thick ( or more I suppose - but no-one with 2mm thick has complained yet... )

 

[blotto]

Hi guys i'm about to buy a sheet of perforated stainless steel sheet for false bottom in my new braumeister..

Just wondering if a 2mm hole and 2mm think would do the trick?

or would a 3mm hole be better?? or maybe 2.5 hole is 2mm thick enough?

cheers
peter

I think the original ones have 2 mm holes and 2 mm thick, but it's been a while since I saw those measurements. Where are you getting your plate Peter?

 

[peterl1981]

Just

I think the original ones have 2 mm holes and 2 mm thick, but it's been a while since I saw those measurements. Where are you getting your plate Peter?

off a stainless steel fabrication dude up the road. In Melbourne.. hes going to try find me sime of cuts, and if not ill just buy a sheet 2.4 x 1.2.

 

[lael]

I'm pretty sure the originals are 3mm. I'm also pretty sure that is the smallest hole size you'll get in 2mm thick.

 

[blotto]

I don't have a vernier caliper or such to measure them. You certainly would have trouble bending them. I put a tape on them (the best measuring device I have!) and they look pretty much spot on 2mm thick with 3mm perforated holes. They're quite heavy too, one is 1.05kg and one is 1.09kg.

I'm pretty sure the originals are 3mm. I'm also pretty sure that is the smallest hole size you'll get in 2mm thick.

Right you are lael, I found Malted's post from a few years ago that I remembered reading

 

[bigbern]

Hi all,

Have read the thread and am inspired to build my own clone. Was just wondering if it is best to get the main vessel with a sandwich base or not.

Cheers

 

[Edak]

Hi all,

Have read the thread and am inspired to build my own clone. Was just wondering if it is best to get the main vessel with a sandwich base or not.

Cheers

I think just to save on cost go without. It's not needed because you heat from within the vessel.

 

[zwitter]

Hi
The advantage of a sanwich base is it gives a stronger base to bolt the central rod to if that is the way you intend to proceed.

Otherwise it is up to what vessel you find that meets the requirements.
Mine has sandwich base but it is smaller than the base so makes attaching plumbing out towards the edge a little more difficult. Either way the seal is done against the inner surface.

James


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[jonasbegood]

I have read through the thread, but seemed to miss what the optimal sizes for the kettle and malt pipe is? Both in liters and cm.

 

[jonasbegood]

Would in example a 50L outer kettle (40x40cm) and a 16,5L (28x28cm) mash pipe be a good combo? This would give me 6cm on each side for heating. How big batch would this produce?

Next step for mash pipe could be 24L (32x32cm). What do you guys think?

 

[Pirate323i]

I have read through the thread, but seemed to miss what the optimal sizes for the kettle and malt pipe is? Both in liters and cm.

My setup (under construction) is based on quite a few others on here and is a 50l keg with a 19l mash pipe (Big W pot) the gap between pots is not large (quite a squeeze!) but would probably be better in a flat bottomed pot as opposed to a keg...
Good luck and have fun!

 

[Edak]

My Big pot...
Top edge (diameter) = 420mm
Bottom Edge (diameter) = 390mm
Height = 395mm

Small pot is the bigw 19L pot, which i think is about 290x290

Your sizes look very close to mine

 

[sponge]

Hey everyone,

After coming to the realisation that a pseudo-BM may be the best option for me to upgrade my current 3V, I have a few questions due to the size of the pots I intend on using (170L kettle and 100L MP).

I noticed that the 50L BMs have 2 elements (1 internal to MP and 1 external) to help with ramp times and whatnot, and was wondering just how necessary these are for larger batches? Is it possible to have a few low-density elements in the main kettle but not having one 'internal' to the MP? I was hoping that with the use of the camlocks as feet, I could get away with having 3 x 3.6kw (or similar) standard elements rather than having to get a couple of custom built ones. I'm mainly just concerned about not having the internal element for the MP to help reduce the ramp times, especially on a larger system.

This self-imposed restriction is purely due to my next question as I don't plan on cutting a single large hole in the MP as per the BM, but using 3 x camlock fittings to hold it in place, similar to some of the other designs on here (still with a FB at the bottom to reduce channeling). I'll be using a chugger pump so am hoping that the chugger will handle 3 x outlets and the large volume to pump through. I'll have the threaded bolt to secure the mash filters welded to the base of the MP as opposed to the kettle.

I was also thinking of making say a 30-40L MP for smaller batches, and being able to re-use the kettle's camlock fittings to secure the smaller MP in place as well (which would mean ensuring that the position of the female camlocks on the kettle will be suitable for either the big or small MP). I have a fair few camlock fittings laying around so aren't too worried about using 3 male fittings on each MP.

I would then look at having 3 elements evenly positioned in the kettle (I'll be having 3P power to the brew shed) with the 3 female camlocks fitted in between the elements, 2 outlets to the recirc-pump, a PT100 in the centre of the kettle and a standard pick-up outlet. All secured (incl. control panel) on a single frame with castors (similar to Tony's), with a frame over the top holding an electric winch which will be able to lift the large MP.

Can anyone see any issues with what I've proposed? Any help on the above build would be greatly appreciated..