Quick question Rob, did you use a Serial enabled LCD or just wire up a heap of pins from the arduino and drive them all ?
int Pin0 = 0; // Digital Pin 0, IC Pin 2 (RX for serial)
int Pin1 = 1; // Digital Pin 1, IC Pin 3 (TX for serial) // LCD Screen
int Pin2 = 2; // Digital Pin 2, IC Pin 4 NESPAD STROBE/LATCH
int Pin3 = 3; // Digital Pin 3, IC Pin 5 NESPAD CLOCK
int Pin4 = 4; // Digital Pin 4, IC Pin 6 NESPAD DATA
int PinTemp = 5; // Digital Pin 5, IC Pin 11 TEMP SENSORS
int PinFloat = 6; // Digital Pin 6, IC Pin 12 FLOAT SWITCH IN HLT/KETTLE
int PinSpeaker = 7; // Digital Pin 7, IC Pin 13 SPEAKER
int Pin8 = 8; // Digital Pin 8, IC Pin 14 **SPARE**
int PinElementHlt = 9; // Digital Pin 9, IC Pin 15 SSR FOR HLT/KETTLE ELEMENT
int PinPumpHlt = 10; // Digital Pin 10, IC Pin 16 SSR FOR PUMP 1 (HLT TO MASHTUN)
int PinPumpMT = 11; // Digital Pin 11, IC Pin 17 SSR FOR PUMP 2 (MASH TUN TO HLT/KETTLE)
int PinMotorMT = 12; // Digital Pin 12, IC Pin 18 SSR FOR MASH STIRRER MOTOR
int PinLed = 13; // Digital Pin 13, IC Pin 19 HAS THE STANDARD LED ON IT, USED FOR MONITORING UPLOAD OF SKETCH
int Pin14 = 14; // Analog Pin 14 (being used as digital) , IC Pin 23 **SPARE**
int Pin15 = 15; // Analog Pin 15 (being used as digital) , IC Pin 24 **SPARE**
int Pin16 = 16; // Analog Pin 16 (being used as digital) , IC Pin 25 **SPARE**
int Pin17 = 17; // Analog Pin 17 (being used as digital) , IC Pin 26 **SPARE**
int Pin18 = 18; // Analog Pin 18 (being used as digital) , IC Pin 27 **SPARE**
int Pin19 = 19; // Analog Pin 19 (being used as digital) , IC Pin 28 **SPARE**
Hey Gary,
I didn't see any sense in wasting pins so went serial, the way i see it as the project grows i will need almost all the pins.
Hope the brew goes well this weekend. Have you done a test batch with just water to make sure everything works correctly yet ?
Hey Gary,
I didn't see any sense in wasting pins so went serial, the way i see it as the project grows i will need almost all the pins.
here's what i'm using so far, i'll make my full code available but it needs tidying up and more notes added first!
Code:int Pin0 = 0; // Digital Pin 0, IC Pin 2 (RX for serial) int Pin1 = 1; // Digital Pin 1, IC Pin 3 (TX for serial) // LCD Screen int Pin2 = 2; // Digital Pin 2, IC Pin 4 NESPAD STROBE/LATCH ...... int Pin18 = 18; // Analog Pin 18 (being used as digital) , IC Pin 27 **SPARE** int Pin19 = 19; // Analog Pin 19 (being used as digital) , IC Pin 28 **SPARE**
Technically, arduino is a development environment and bootloader for the Atmel AVR. The most common AVR used in arduino is the atmega168, but the atmega8 and the atmega328(apparently) will also work.Is why i use the PIC18F452, it has 40 of them What's an Arduino anyway? Are they better than PIC's?
Hey Guys,
going to get a bit more work done on HABS!
Hardware wise i need to get a bigger mash tun and a mash stirrer driven by a motor sorted.
Software wise i need to get some code knocked up for some more bits and pieces
1.) Mash stirrer, should be easy enough
2.) Control power output to the Heating Element in the Boil Kettle/HLT
3.) Maintain mash temperatures (and down the track for temp step control)
2 & 3 are also going to be used as standalone units for a ausdb's All-in-one Electric Brewery or minihabs as he's calling it :lol:
Here a quick idea that i've come up with
View attachment 25926
Boil Kettle, to control the output power of the Heating Element so it doesn't boil to hard
View attachment 25927
Mash Temp
basically once it gets to 90% of the Desired Mash Temp then it starts gradually reducing the output power to the Heating Element so it doesn't
overshoot the Desired Mash Temp, kind of like a poor-mans-pid, this could also be used for the sparge water step in the HLT
What do you think?
Rob.
EDIT: I've also added the source code to my website, yeah it needs a clean up and is a constant work in progress but is available if anyone wants a squizzy
10 read mash temp
20 mem *dont forget to pour beer*
30 if temp = 65 then goto 50
40 if temp > 65 then goto 10
50 if temp = 65 then wait 60mins
60 pour another beer
70 when time=60mins open valve
80 if kettle is not under mash tap then sound alarm
90 pour another beer
100 check lazy brewer has responded to alarm
110 keep mash valve open
120 goto 100
130 check response to alarm, then goto 140
140 kick lazy brewers ***
150 check ferm temp
160 if ferm temp < 18* then pitch yeast
170 if ferm temp > 18* then pitch yeast
180 check ferm temp
190 pour beer
200 relaxe and log onto AHb
210 pour another beer
Mash Temp
basically once it gets to 90% of the Desired Mash Temp then it starts gradually reducing the output power to the Heating Element so it doesn't
overshoot the Desired Mash Temp, kind of like a poor-mans-pid, this could also be used for the sparge water step in the HLT
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