Arduino Development Thread

[justsomeguy]

No progress on mine either. Family stuff has managed to get in the way of almost everything at the moment.

Just a quick one. Has anyone given some thought as to how to mount the DS1820's in the outlet of a RIMS/HERMS ?

The mash tun isn't really a problem. I'm just going to close off the end of a piece of copper tubing and stuff the 1820 down the end of it.

gary.

 

[randyrob]

I'm just going to close off the end of a piece of copper tubing and stuff the 1820 down the end of it.

Hey Gary,

this is what i'm doing at the moment, just make sure u use some heat sink compound in there as well
i've found the sensors are much more responsive this way.

I haven't really put any thought into the sensors for the RIMS/HERMS yet but i'm sure there will be a few guys around here
with ideas.

Rob.

 

[bonj]

I was planning on something similar to what I have in my mashtun: A piece of aluminium tubing, sensor poking out the end, and some Selleys Knead-It to fill the gaps. Works fine for the mashtun and since the majority of the TO92 package is poking out from the filler, it seems to be fairly responsive. Pedro is doing something similar with silicone too.

 

[JasonY]

I have also done stuff all, mainly because I am a lazy *******

I have acquired some SSR's so I am ready to go a step further but am thinking about how to water proof (or wort proof) the DS1820. After my crap test run on my new HERMs system I am thinking the place for the temp will be in the sparge manifold so its going to have to be wort-proof. Either that or I may tape it to the copper exiting the HERMs coil so its external to the process. I need to do some test runs however to see how representative a measurement that will give.

Also thinking about a temperature cascade control, so the primary control would be wort temp which would set the SP for the HERMs reservoir temp. That could be overkill but then this whole microprocessor thing is so who cares

 

[Andyd]

I have also done stuff all, mainly because I am a lazy *******

I have acquired some SSR's so I am ready to go a step further but am thinking about how to water proof (or wort proof) the DS1820. After my crap test run on my new HERMs system I am thinking the place for the temp will be in the sparge manifold so its going to have to be wort-proof. Either that or I may tape it to the copper exiting the HERMs coil so its external to the process. I need to do some test runs however to see how representative a measurement that will give.

Also thinking about a temperature cascade control, so the primary control would be wort temp which would set the SP for the HERMs reservoir temp. That could be overkill but then this whole microprocessor thing is so who cares

If you're using copper for your manifold, it will be sufficient to press the sensor against the outside of the copper, and then insulate that area.

Andy

 

[AndrewQLD]

Reading this thread with some wonder, quite amazing what you guys are doing here. Have any of you looked at LabVIEW , not sure if it is all that relevent but it looks impressive for graphical interface development (if that's the right term) and I thought it might be useful rather than writing all that code.

Cheers
Andrew

 

[Andyd]

Reading this thread with some wonder, quite amazing what you guys are doing here. Have any of you looked at LabVIEW , not sure if it is all that relevent but it looks impressive for graphical interface development (if that's the right term) and I thought it might be useful rather than writing all that code.

Cheers
Andrew

For me, brewing is as much about having a reason for playing with stuff like this and angle grinders, as it is about the finished product

Andy

 

[newguy]

Reading this thread with some wonder, quite amazing what you guys are doing here. Have any of you looked at LabVIEW , not sure if it is all that relevent but it looks impressive for graphical interface development (if that's the right term) and I thought it might be useful rather than writing all that code.

Cheers
Andrew

LabView would be ideal, but the last time I bought a copy, someone else was picking up the tab. In other words, it's expensive as hell. [Or was the last time I checked]

That's why open-source tools like Arduino are attractive: very little overhead costs for the end user.

 

[randyrob]

Hey Guys,

this is an idea i've come up with for my recirculation step:




The first pump (from bottom of mash tun to top of hlt/kettle)

The second pump (from bottom of hlt/kettle to to of mash tun)

if i run both pumps at the same time it creates a circuit from the bottom of the mash tun to the top of the mash tun,
i run that for 15 minutes until the wort clears up and then switch off the second pump to fill the kettle.

i'll upload a vid of it in action if my explanation didnt make any sense!

what do u think?

Rob.

 

[randyrob]

pretty rough video but hopefully u get the idea

VIDEO

i had to shoot it quickly i'm already running late for ausdb's wedding h34r:

Rob.

 

[serialmonkey]

Finally got my beerduino built over the past week or so. It's very basic (I'm only into kits+bits) but it was fun to build.

The Arduino uses a LM35 on an analog pin to read a value in degree's, then flicks a relay on and off depending on some hard-coded limits. The cool thing is that it outputs the temp to the serial port every 30 seconds to a spare laptop which stores and graphs the data.

I've got a bright ale clone going at the moment - attached is the current graph.



The red line shows when the relay has turned the fridge on-and-off. The black lines are the limits I'm trying to maintain.

If anyone is interested in the various pieces of code I've posted them here - http://www.markwallis.id.au/wiki/index.php?title=Brewduino

 

[bonj]

Nice work, serialmonkey! I think you should consider dropping the upper limit down to at most 20 (depending on your yeast).

I considered using the LM35s when I couldn't get my DS18S20s to work. Turns out I mixed up the pullup resistor, and once that was figured out, they worked a treat. The LM35s certainly are cheap.

 

[serialmonkey]

Thanks for the tip. I'm using a SafAle S04 at the moment which apparently is up to 24 degree's, but your right, lower would be better.

I had the same problem with the LM35's. I didn't use the resistor to begin with and the variation in tempreature from one second to another was insane. 100K resistor later between the GND and Vout on the LM35 and all is well.

 

[bonj]

Glad I'm not the only one.

Your graph is interesting, it shows a short period where the temperature keeps dropping after the cooling is turned off. I have noticed a profound example of this with my chest freezer, although I don't graph it (yet) and use a fridgemate on it.

 

[serialmonkey]

I agree it's odd. I've had to allow for an additional 2 degree drop even after the fridge is turned off, hence I have the arduino killing the relay 2 degree's before my low threshold. I imagine I'll have to tweak this over summer

 

[enoch]

I can't see it referenced but someone has posted a new pid library for arduino at arduino site.
I'm still coming up to speed on the arduino but hope to use this library for my espresso machine.

 

[Doogiechap]

Just a heads up that Jaycar is selling a heap of different displays at good prices at the moment. They have been sourced as a one off sale and are not being stocked at retail outlets but you can find out more about them here.
Cheers
Doug

 

[bonj]

I've just re-read a lot of this thread in an "enlightened state" brought on by a couple of homebrews followed by some Meantime IPA, and I have to say I love what's happening on this thread. Some great innovation happening here and some great humour too. A perfect combination if you ask me.

Thanks to enoch for the link. I will chase than up when I'm in a more comprehending state of mind.

Thanks also to Doogiechap. Great to see how everyone has the community in mind when they find good deals.

I love you guys :lol: okay, so I'm a happy drunk.

 

[Simon W]

Nice one Doogs!!

For anyone looking here but can't be bothered downloading the pdf catalog (10 meg), the product codes are pretty easy to work out.
The first numbers in the product code are the lcd type.
eg: 162 is 16char x2 line alphanumeric.
404 is 40char x4 line etc.
64128 is 64x128 dot matrix... etc etc

For the rest of the product code(back lighting etc), check this chart:



A 64 x 240 pixel display with backlight for $5??
F&$*ing bargain, get in while it's good.
A graphing fridgemate-style temp controller, or graphing mash thermometer anyone???

 

[Doogiechap]

Another Jaycar Display sale if you missed the last one