All In One Brewery...
- Thread starter James Squire
- Start date
Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:
PistolPatch
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- 29/11/05
- Messages
- 2,717
- Reaction score
- 44
OK, as my work day started at 3am (not planned) and finished 6hrs later than expected, I'm going no chill. At least no one can say that I'm not a dedicated AHB'er - I kept my word and did the brew as promised! (I aslo ordered 2 lots of crushed grain which means I'll have to brew again when I get home tomorrow - spewing!)
Tonight would have been extremely simple without the myriad of distractions I had. Some have been mentioned - phone calls and the untimeliness of neighbours leaving have not. I am obviously quite angry at myself for using the wrong hops, Saaz versus Hallertau, but hope that AHB'ers will realise the mistake was made through an eagerness to get the results of this experiment posted asap rather than basic caveman stupidity. I did have a pre-written schedule which involved weighing out hops way before I even mashed in. Yeah, well that all went to you know where.
Also very new to my Robinox 70lt - evaporation from these is mind-blowing. Not a problem - just need to shorten the boil. Sitting in the kettle, no-chill cooling now is, 18.4lts at 1024* refrac. (Hopefully someone else will analyse all the above figures whilst I'm at work.)
Smashed Jaffa: Here's your answer (see my P.S. also)...
If you want a maltier brew, use more grain and sparge less.
Your question follows on from earlier questions so don't be worried when I say that it is off-topic - your question actually deserves a new thread.
James' idea is (now I know) not no-sparge brewing. Trough Lolly posted some excellent material on getting a maltier beer which is a hugely valuable read for all brewers. The things described in his links allude to no- sparge brewing.
This thread, and I have a slight advantage as I have conversed with James, has nothing to do with maltiness.
The real question in this thread is, 'Can I brew a good beer with only one solid vessel?' The answer seems to be, 'Yes, you can!'
A discussion of maltiness of a beer should be in a separate thread and only be read and absorbed by brewers way beyond the level of my expertise or those new to or contemplating AG!
Smashed: I hope the above is of some help. Believe it or not, many experienced brewers have been thrown by this thread. Mashing 5-6kg grain immediately in 33 litres of grain seems to have thrown everyone and I'm still unsure why?
The experienced brewers I talk to are very interested in the results here though. I'm just hopiong they can analyze the refractometer readings I've given above as I'm prety tired now!!!
Have to go but hope I was of some help....
PP
EDIT: Just did a fresh reading this morning with both refractometer and hydrometer: Result 1017 Brix [confirmed with hydrometer reading of 1070]. Throwing into fermenter now and will top up with water. Will take a last reading once this is done.
Tonight would have been extremely simple without the myriad of distractions I had. Some have been mentioned - phone calls and the untimeliness of neighbours leaving have not. I am obviously quite angry at myself for using the wrong hops, Saaz versus Hallertau, but hope that AHB'ers will realise the mistake was made through an eagerness to get the results of this experiment posted asap rather than basic caveman stupidity. I did have a pre-written schedule which involved weighing out hops way before I even mashed in. Yeah, well that all went to you know where.
Also very new to my Robinox 70lt - evaporation from these is mind-blowing. Not a problem - just need to shorten the boil. Sitting in the kettle, no-chill cooling now is, 18.4lts at 1024* refrac. (Hopefully someone else will analyse all the above figures whilst I'm at work.)
Smashed Jaffa: Here's your answer (see my P.S. also)...
If you want a maltier brew, use more grain and sparge less.
Your question follows on from earlier questions so don't be worried when I say that it is off-topic - your question actually deserves a new thread.
James' idea is (now I know) not no-sparge brewing. Trough Lolly posted some excellent material on getting a maltier beer which is a hugely valuable read for all brewers. The things described in his links allude to no- sparge brewing.
This thread, and I have a slight advantage as I have conversed with James, has nothing to do with maltiness.
The real question in this thread is, 'Can I brew a good beer with only one solid vessel?' The answer seems to be, 'Yes, you can!'
A discussion of maltiness of a beer should be in a separate thread and only be read and absorbed by brewers way beyond the level of my expertise or those new to or contemplating AG!
Smashed: I hope the above is of some help. Believe it or not, many experienced brewers have been thrown by this thread. Mashing 5-6kg grain immediately in 33 litres of grain seems to have thrown everyone and I'm still unsure why?
The experienced brewers I talk to are very interested in the results here though. I'm just hopiong they can analyze the refractometer readings I've given above as I'm prety tired now!!!
Have to go but hope I was of some help....
PP
EDIT: Just did a fresh reading this morning with both refractometer and hydrometer: Result 1017 Brix [confirmed with hydrometer reading of 1070]. Throwing into fermenter now and will top up with water. Will take a last reading once this is done.
PistolPatch
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- 29/11/05
- Messages
- 2,717
- Reaction score
- 44
Just popped back on before I collapse to answer both Ross's question and Poppa Joe's. Can't see Poppa's anymore!
Rossco: What a great recipe to try this out on! As for refracto readings - all have been given in Brix or whatever a refractometer reads in! Hope you can analyze my readings above because I'm bloody tired and can't see myself both brewing a light Shwartz tomorrrow AND posting here!
Poppa: Your question re squeezing the grain bag - totally valid. Me squeezing the grain bag would have not only exposed my wort to HSA but may also have added tannin. Like the question of maltiness, I think that both these things are only things to worry about and play around with for very experienced brewers. You and I will still get a beer that's 97% right by following absolute basics.
Spot ya ron,
Pat
Rossco: What a great recipe to try this out on! As for refracto readings - all have been given in Brix or whatever a refractometer reads in! Hope you can analyze my readings above because I'm bloody tired and can't see myself both brewing a light Shwartz tomorrrow AND posting here!
Poppa: Your question re squeezing the grain bag - totally valid. Me squeezing the grain bag would have not only exposed my wort to HSA but may also have added tannin. Like the question of maltiness, I think that both these things are only things to worry about and play around with for very experienced brewers. You and I will still get a beer that's 97% right by following absolute basics.
Spot ya ron,
Pat
browndog
Are you bulletproof boy?
- Joined
- 23/9/03
- Messages
- 3,635
- Reaction score
- 157
Well Pat, the problem could be by the SG readings you were giving. When you read your refractometer, you are reading in %Brix. So I am assuming that your 1.013 and your 1.024 are 13% and 24%Brix, to convert these to SG points multiply by 4 so that makes 1.042 and 1.096. According to Beersmith your post boil gravity going off your starting SG and evaporation rate should end up around 1.066 so I don't know what is going on there Pat, better lay off the beers while you are brewing hey (or are some of those pesky neighbours of the fairer sex
)cheers
Browndog
PistolPatch
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- 29/11/05
- Messages
- 2,717
- Reaction score
- 44
Sorry Browndog and others for posting in Brix. Have gone through and added conversions. (I used 4.1 instead of 4 as I'm sure someone told me that was more accurate???) The 1024 Brix [1096 gravity] reading was probably dodgy as I just took another one then with refrac and got 1018 Brix pretty much confirmed by a hydrometer reading of 1070. (Just discovered this hydrometer is dodgy. Will use different one for next reading).
Have just syphoned into fermenter and scored 16 litres. Topped up with 7 litres to make 23 litres. Hydrometer reading using non-dodgy hydrometer is 1065 confirmed with refractometer reading of 1016.
So, FINAL reading is 23 litres at 1065.
Time: Taking away the extra half hour I mashed for which proved unneccessary, total time from equipment set-up to flame off was 4hrs 20 minutes. This included a 1.5 hour boil.
This is good.
Will not have time to post pics unti lthis evening but I'm very surprised at the lack of trub and also the clarity of the wort - it's the best I have had.
Only downside to this experiment was the brewer. (Please excuse the poor quality of my posts last night but I was pretty buggered and in poor humour before I even started brewing and of course I had one or two during the brew!)
[Yeast is not proofing and this is after 1.5 packets. Will try and buy another packet today and hope for the best - grrrr]
Going to pitch now and then have to go and do some real work.
PP
Have just syphoned into fermenter and scored 16 litres. Topped up with 7 litres to make 23 litres. Hydrometer reading using non-dodgy hydrometer is 1065 confirmed with refractometer reading of 1016.
So, FINAL reading is 23 litres at 1065.
Time: Taking away the extra half hour I mashed for which proved unneccessary, total time from equipment set-up to flame off was 4hrs 20 minutes. This included a 1.5 hour boil.
This is good.
Will not have time to post pics unti lthis evening but I'm very surprised at the lack of trub and also the clarity of the wort - it's the best I have had.
Only downside to this experiment was the brewer. (Please excuse the poor quality of my posts last night but I was pretty buggered and in poor humour before I even started brewing and of course I had one or two during the brew!)
[Yeast is not proofing and this is after 1.5 packets. Will try and buy another packet today and hope for the best - grrrr]
Going to pitch now and then have to go and do some real work.
PP
James Squire
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- 27/9/05
- Messages
- 291
- Reaction score
- 1
Keep up that enthusiasm Pat,
I love your work mate... the results will come (with time) in the tasting of some of these trial brews! Thought I'd jump in here to answer Smashed Jaffa's fine question. Get ready for a PistolPatch length post guys!!!
SJ,
As PistolPatch has eluded to, the method here is more of a 'no-sparge-full-volume method' as opposed to the standard 'no sparge' method used by others. Based on the large amount of reading/research I have been doing into both these methods I can probably explain both the why's and why not's of your question...
Ok, now the number one problem with 'no sparge' brewing is the low efficiency achieved due to leaving the grain un-rinsed if you will. ***Just to clarify this point, the 'no sparge' method involves mashing with normal water:grist ratios and then adding a charge of hot water at the end of the mash to make up to target volume.*** Rough estimates from brewers more experienced than I are that efficiencies using the plain 'no-sparge' method will be around 60-65%. This low efficiency can be countered by an increase in grain bill, this is difficult to work out how much more but a good place to start is to increase the grain bill by 25%. Now, this style of brewing is promoted and championed by some for it's simplicity and more importantly for the added benefits of supposedly a maltier beer! The popular belief is that it gives the malty feel due to not sparging the run off down to low gravity and extracting tannins and other bad stuff into the wort. I believe sparging exists for the reason that commercially it is not as economically viable to up the grain bill when by sparging you can achieve the correct gravity and volume simply by sacrificing the (very) slight maltier feel of the final product. However on a small scale as with homebrewing, it's not neccessary for economics to get in the way of high quality beers.
Now the above mentioned method of mashing with a 'no sparge' runoff and then adding required hot water to boil is used by many to great success and I do not see a problem with the method aside from the increase in grain (which results in needing more room in mash tun!).
However my idea that prompted this thread is to do everything in one vessel which negates the possibility to heat the 'top up' water required in the 'no sparge'. So now the trials are starting on actually mashing with very thin water:grist ratio's to test this theory. ***I do still feel though that by using this method, more grain will be required (I will test this when I can)*** Good luck to all that are giving it a go!
So to answer your question in short SJ, you can do either! It's up to the brewer as to how they brew, perhaps give one a go then next time try the other! Both options I would expect will give you great results!
All the best people and sorry for the long post, oh and remember that if you have the time for two brews... experiment by using the remaining sugars in the grain to mash again and create a second 'smaller' beer!
JS
Note: The above references to 'no-sparge' brewing producing a maltier beer of high quality are based on the writings of brewing experts who have trialled the process. I am yet to brew using either 'no-sparge' methods and therefore cannot say yay or nay.
I love your work mate... the results will come (with time) in the tasting of some of these trial brews! Thought I'd jump in here to answer Smashed Jaffa's fine question. Get ready for a PistolPatch length post guys!!!
SJ,
As PistolPatch has eluded to, the method here is more of a 'no-sparge-full-volume method' as opposed to the standard 'no sparge' method used by others. Based on the large amount of reading/research I have been doing into both these methods I can probably explain both the why's and why not's of your question...
Ok, now the number one problem with 'no sparge' brewing is the low efficiency achieved due to leaving the grain un-rinsed if you will. ***Just to clarify this point, the 'no sparge' method involves mashing with normal water:grist ratios and then adding a charge of hot water at the end of the mash to make up to target volume.*** Rough estimates from brewers more experienced than I are that efficiencies using the plain 'no-sparge' method will be around 60-65%. This low efficiency can be countered by an increase in grain bill, this is difficult to work out how much more but a good place to start is to increase the grain bill by 25%. Now, this style of brewing is promoted and championed by some for it's simplicity and more importantly for the added benefits of supposedly a maltier beer! The popular belief is that it gives the malty feel due to not sparging the run off down to low gravity and extracting tannins and other bad stuff into the wort. I believe sparging exists for the reason that commercially it is not as economically viable to up the grain bill when by sparging you can achieve the correct gravity and volume simply by sacrificing the (very) slight maltier feel of the final product. However on a small scale as with homebrewing, it's not neccessary for economics to get in the way of high quality beers.
Now the above mentioned method of mashing with a 'no sparge' runoff and then adding required hot water to boil is used by many to great success and I do not see a problem with the method aside from the increase in grain (which results in needing more room in mash tun!).
However my idea that prompted this thread is to do everything in one vessel which negates the possibility to heat the 'top up' water required in the 'no sparge'. So now the trials are starting on actually mashing with very thin water:grist ratio's to test this theory. ***I do still feel though that by using this method, more grain will be required (I will test this when I can)*** Good luck to all that are giving it a go!
So to answer your question in short SJ, you can do either! It's up to the brewer as to how they brew, perhaps give one a go then next time try the other! Both options I would expect will give you great results!
All the best people and sorry for the long post, oh and remember that if you have the time for two brews... experiment by using the remaining sugars in the grain to mash again and create a second 'smaller' beer!
JS
Note: The above references to 'no-sparge' brewing producing a maltier beer of high quality are based on the writings of brewing experts who have trialled the process. I am yet to brew using either 'no-sparge' methods and therefore cannot say yay or nay.
smashed jaffa
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- 11/12/05
- Messages
- 85
- Reaction score
- 0
PP,
Love your committment. It is great to get people trying new things and therefore bringing knowledge to this forum. Thanks for your comments.
JS,
Thanks for the informative post. I am curious as to the difference in either method as I can see it;
1) the "no- sparge method", which requires normal water/grain ratio and a charge of hot water to mash out, (I assume an increase in water temperature for the mash out addition).
2) 'no-sparge- full boil volume" adding the right amount of water for the full boil at mash in temp, (as stated in my previous post; boil volume plus MT deadspace and grain soakage).
I am keen to try the 'no-sparge- full boil volume' method as I think this might be a shortcut in ascertaining the total amount of water needed for my equipment, (which I have been having trouble getting an accurate estimation.)
If this is the case (2 confirmed?), I will try the 'no-sparge- full boil volume' method this weekend with my planned Vienna Lager brew.
Thanks for everyone's comments. :beer:
Cheers,
SJ
Love your committment. It is great to get people trying new things and therefore bringing knowledge to this forum. Thanks for your comments.
JS,
Thanks for the informative post. I am curious as to the difference in either method as I can see it;
1) the "no- sparge method", which requires normal water/grain ratio and a charge of hot water to mash out, (I assume an increase in water temperature for the mash out addition).
2) 'no-sparge- full boil volume" adding the right amount of water for the full boil at mash in temp, (as stated in my previous post; boil volume plus MT deadspace and grain soakage).
I am keen to try the 'no-sparge- full boil volume' method as I think this might be a shortcut in ascertaining the total amount of water needed for my equipment, (which I have been having trouble getting an accurate estimation.)
If this is the case (2 confirmed?), I will try the 'no-sparge- full boil volume' method this weekend with my planned Vienna Lager brew.
Thanks for everyone's comments. :beer:
Cheers,
SJ
James Squire
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- 27/9/05
- Messages
- 291
- Reaction score
- 1
SJ,
You are correct with your number 2 method description. Using this method on the weekend would interest me greatly and a post of how you go here would be great!
The reason behind the 'no sparge' using the mash-out instead of mashing in full volume is to improve extraction efficiencies. As PP has shown, it takes longer to convert in a thin mash. Using normal water:grain ratio's will convert quicker and more efficiently. If using the 'no-sparge-full-volume' method then don't forget to up your grain bill. Perhaps setting your software to 60% efficiency will get you close to the mark.
Make sure to keep us informed...
JS
You are correct with your number 2 method description. Using this method on the weekend would interest me greatly and a post of how you go here would be great!
The reason behind the 'no sparge' using the mash-out instead of mashing in full volume is to improve extraction efficiencies. As PP has shown, it takes longer to convert in a thin mash. Using normal water:grain ratio's will convert quicker and more efficiently. If using the 'no-sparge-full-volume' method then don't forget to up your grain bill. Perhaps setting your software to 60% efficiency will get you close to the mark.
Make sure to keep us informed...
JS
PistolPatch
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- 29/11/05
- Messages
- 2,717
- Reaction score
- 44
Going to try and redeem myself now after my very confusing posts of last night. Ross has just explained that refractometer readings don't have the 10 in front - no wonder browndog was confused. Ross also answered my tannin questions - cheers mate! Will answer these and other questions below.
The Process
This was actually a very easy way to brew and would also be a very relaxing way if done at a reasonable hour and without interruption. (Please excuse pic quality).
Step 1 - Set Up Equipment. (5mins)
Step 2 - Fill Kettle with 33 Litres of Water and Apply Full Heat.
Step 3 - Raise Temperature to 72 Degrees for Mash In. (40 Mins)
Step 4 - Pour 6KG Grain Into Kettle. Stir and Check Strike Temperature Equals 66.
Will comment on Ross's Schwartzbier recipe and grains later. Agitated grain and stabilised temp at 66 within a few minutes.
Step 5 - Mash (90 Mins)
Maintained the temp with two applications of heat during the following hour and a half utilising these times to stir the mash as well.
Step 6 - Raise Mash Temperature to 80 Degrees (20 Mins)
This step may be 5 minutes or so faster when I do it again. I was worried about the grain at the base of the kettle getting too hot but apparently I was worrying about nothing. Last night though, I just hiked the bag up which was a bit of a job requiring teeth etc. Finally got it raised.
Step 7 - Remove Mash Bag
This step was also a little difficult. Holding 12 kgs up at an awkward angle is a pain but with a little thought, this problem could be fixed. I ended up dumping the whole bag into a second vessel. In other words I broke the rules. I let bag self drain for about 15 minutes and then gave it a quick squeeze. From this I gained another 1.5 lts.
Step 8 - Bring to Boil (20 Mins?)
Was interrupted again at this stage which lead to the major error of using the incorrect hops. Wort actually tastes very good so fingers crossed.
All other steps are as normal so will not write them here. One final picture though of the trub left after syphoning from the kettle into the fermenter.
Efficiency - Excellent Results.
Lou and James: No extra grain was used and a 90 minute sparge was fine. Extra mash time gained nothing. Ended up with 23 litres with an Original Gravity of 1065 which is 9 points higher than Ross's Recipe predicts. It is also far higher than I have acheived previously brewing this recipe. Prior figures were 1054, 1050 and 1052. Using this method raised efficiency from my usual 68% to 81%.
Recipe - Ross's Schwartzbier
3.37kg (56%) Munich Malt (9.0SRM)
1.93kg (32%) Pilsner Malt Craft Export (Joe White) (1.6SRM)
0.24kg (4%) Chocolate Malt (Joe White) (381SRM)
0.24kg (4%) Dark Crystal (Joe White) (110SRM)
0.12kg (2%) Carafa (337 SRM)
0.12kg (2%) Roasted Barley (Joe White) (710SRM)
38g Hallertau (5.3%) (80 minutes) 23.2 IBU
20g Hallertau (5.3%) (20 minutes) 7.0 IBU
20g Hallertau (5.3%) (2 minutes) 1.0 IBU
1 tsp Yeast Nutrient (10 minutes)
1 tsp table salt (90 minutes)
1 pkt Czech Pilsner Lager (Wyeast Labs #2278
I chose this beer as I have brewed it very successfully before (probably because Ross helped) actually using US-56 instead of a lager yeast. I thought that this is quite an easy brew for beginners as it allows those who can't maintain lager fermentation temps to still brew a beautiful lager. It is also a very forgiving brew. Last night involved extremely poor brewing practices by me but I'm still confident that this beer will be good.
Hope this post makes up for my poor posts of last night. Why I even posted last night I'll never know.
By the way, thanks to Smashed Jaffa, Ross, James for the kind and toally undeserved comments. My spirits would have been even further reduced without your comments.
A Great Way to Brew - So Far
I think I'm going to really enjoy my second bash at this on Saturday. I'm extremely impressed with the results so far and will filter and keg this batch in 10 days to see how it goes.* Only good part of last night was my good-looking female neighbour (not the 76 year old) also dropped in for a few beers - yum! Going to lock my doors on Saturdaymorning though to keep these 2 out...
Cheers
Pat
*Have had some yeast troubles lately and so picked up another pack and pitched it as well. Another stuck ferment would not make me happy!
The Process
This was actually a very easy way to brew and would also be a very relaxing way if done at a reasonable hour and without interruption. (Please excuse pic quality).
Step 1 - Set Up Equipment. (5mins)
Step 2 - Fill Kettle with 33 Litres of Water and Apply Full Heat.
Step 3 - Raise Temperature to 72 Degrees for Mash In. (40 Mins)
Step 4 - Pour 6KG Grain Into Kettle. Stir and Check Strike Temperature Equals 66.
Will comment on Ross's Schwartzbier recipe and grains later. Agitated grain and stabilised temp at 66 within a few minutes.
Step 5 - Mash (90 Mins)
Maintained the temp with two applications of heat during the following hour and a half utilising these times to stir the mash as well.
Step 6 - Raise Mash Temperature to 80 Degrees (20 Mins)
This step may be 5 minutes or so faster when I do it again. I was worried about the grain at the base of the kettle getting too hot but apparently I was worrying about nothing. Last night though, I just hiked the bag up which was a bit of a job requiring teeth etc. Finally got it raised.
Step 7 - Remove Mash Bag
This step was also a little difficult. Holding 12 kgs up at an awkward angle is a pain but with a little thought, this problem could be fixed. I ended up dumping the whole bag into a second vessel. In other words I broke the rules. I let bag self drain for about 15 minutes and then gave it a quick squeeze. From this I gained another 1.5 lts.
Step 8 - Bring to Boil (20 Mins?)
Was interrupted again at this stage which lead to the major error of using the incorrect hops. Wort actually tastes very good so fingers crossed.
All other steps are as normal so will not write them here. One final picture though of the trub left after syphoning from the kettle into the fermenter.
Efficiency - Excellent Results.
Lou and James: No extra grain was used and a 90 minute sparge was fine. Extra mash time gained nothing. Ended up with 23 litres with an Original Gravity of 1065 which is 9 points higher than Ross's Recipe predicts. It is also far higher than I have acheived previously brewing this recipe. Prior figures were 1054, 1050 and 1052. Using this method raised efficiency from my usual 68% to 81%.
Recipe - Ross's Schwartzbier
3.37kg (56%) Munich Malt (9.0SRM)
1.93kg (32%) Pilsner Malt Craft Export (Joe White) (1.6SRM)
0.24kg (4%) Chocolate Malt (Joe White) (381SRM)
0.24kg (4%) Dark Crystal (Joe White) (110SRM)
0.12kg (2%) Carafa (337 SRM)
0.12kg (2%) Roasted Barley (Joe White) (710SRM)
38g Hallertau (5.3%) (80 minutes) 23.2 IBU
20g Hallertau (5.3%) (20 minutes) 7.0 IBU
20g Hallertau (5.3%) (2 minutes) 1.0 IBU
1 tsp Yeast Nutrient (10 minutes)
1 tsp table salt (90 minutes)
1 pkt Czech Pilsner Lager (Wyeast Labs #2278
I chose this beer as I have brewed it very successfully before (probably because Ross helped) actually using US-56 instead of a lager yeast. I thought that this is quite an easy brew for beginners as it allows those who can't maintain lager fermentation temps to still brew a beautiful lager. It is also a very forgiving brew. Last night involved extremely poor brewing practices by me but I'm still confident that this beer will be good.
Hope this post makes up for my poor posts of last night. Why I even posted last night I'll never know.
By the way, thanks to Smashed Jaffa, Ross, James for the kind and toally undeserved comments. My spirits would have been even further reduced without your comments.
A Great Way to Brew - So Far
I think I'm going to really enjoy my second bash at this on Saturday. I'm extremely impressed with the results so far and will filter and keg this batch in 10 days to see how it goes.* Only good part of last night was my good-looking female neighbour (not the 76 year old) also dropped in for a few beers - yum! Going to lock my doors on Saturdaymorning though to keep these 2 out...
Cheers
Pat
*Have had some yeast troubles lately and so picked up another pack and pitched it as well. Another stuck ferment would not make me happy!
James Squire
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- 27/9/05
- Messages
- 291
- Reaction score
- 1
Thanks for the feedback Pat,
You've done well mate. Don't stress on the wrong hops... Saaz should still make this a grouse drinker!
Congrats on the effeciency achievements! Thats awesome! Im glad its all gonna pay off for ya! Not bad this whole 'taking one for the team' stuff!!!
Cheers mate,
JS
You've done well mate. Don't stress on the wrong hops... Saaz should still make this a grouse drinker!
Congrats on the effeciency achievements! Thats awesome! Im glad its all gonna pay off for ya! Not bad this whole 'taking one for the team' stuff!!!
Cheers mate,
JS
jimmysuperlative
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- 12/8/04
- Messages
- 493
- Reaction score
- 6
Great going PP !!!
I'm just about inspired enough to have a crack at it myself ...
Can you give us a few details on the "grain sock" construction ...what's it made out it etc
Keep up the top work :beer:
I'm just about inspired enough to have a crack at it myself ...
Can you give us a few details on the "grain sock" construction ...what's it made out it etc
Keep up the top work :beer:
James Squire
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- 27/9/05
- Messages
- 291
- Reaction score
- 1
Jimmysuperlative,
If this thing keeps taking off then perhaps Craftbrewer will release the 'No-Sparge Grain-Sock'!!!h34r: :lol:
Seriously though, I believe from what PP has told me it is just your standard mesh curtain material... Pat can confirm but I believe the run of the mill curtain stuff from your Spotlight type store. He then had someone sew it all up for him... I think in the fashion of a pillow case with a draw string...
Again though, PP will drop in and tell you for sure.
Cheers,
JS
If this thing keeps taking off then perhaps Craftbrewer will release the 'No-Sparge Grain-Sock'!!!
h34r: :lol: Seriously though, I believe from what PP has told me it is just your standard mesh curtain material... Pat can confirm but I believe the run of the mill curtain stuff from your Spotlight type store. He then had someone sew it all up for him... I think in the fashion of a pillow case with a draw string...
Again though, PP will drop in and tell you for sure.
Cheers,
JS
I have a 16lt urn..insulated..Grain sock..etc..I made last week..Ready to try this method ..for small batches
as trial to bigger ones..Went to lhbs NO GRAIN ...AAAARRRGGGHHHH
Came home ,may as well bottle 1st small 12lt batch i did (old way which is new to me ..anyway) AAAARRRRGGGHHHH Infected...
Down the sink...AAAAARRRRGGGGHHHH
Not a happy Jan...(orPJ)
But nothing daunts an OLD brewer..so back to the drawing board..
So my first was a failure and cant get grain till next week maybe .? to stuff my next one up...
PJ
PS> PP A friend has a Barley Crusher if you are interested .
.
as trial to bigger ones..Went to lhbs NO GRAIN ...AAAARRRGGGHHHH
Came home ,may as well bottle 1st small 12lt batch i did (old way which is new to me ..anyway) AAAARRRRGGGHHHH Infected...
Down the sink...AAAAARRRRGGGGHHHH
Not a happy Jan...(orPJ)
But nothing daunts an OLD brewer..so back to the drawing board..
So my first was a failure and cant get grain till next week maybe .? to stuff my next one up...
PJ
PS> PP A friend has a Barley Crusher if you are interested .
.
PistolPatch
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- 29/11/05
- Messages
- 2,717
- Reaction score
- 44
Thanks for your comments Jimmy. Yep, material is 100% Swiss Voile Ivory from Spotlight. Also bought nylon thread and drawstring (Gutterman Poly Thread) from there. Cost of under $15 with a lot of material left over.
The sock lines the entire kettle. What I might do is add another drawstring, maybe even 2, further down the sock so as I can let it drain gradually without having to hold on to it.
I reckon give it a go Jimmy. It's easy, cheap and I certainly still can't see any problems in brewing great beer with this method.
Cheers mate.
Poppa, just saw your post - will PM you right now!
jimmysuperlative
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- 12/8/04
- Messages
- 493
- Reaction score
- 6
just got this link from the NB forum ...
Nimbus system
...looks similar to the one that initially got this thread started.
Wish I spoke Danish ???? :huh:
PP and PJ, looks like I'm headed to spotlight ...unless, as James Squire suggested, "Craftbrewer will release the 'No-Sparge Grain-Sock'!!!"
Ross?
Nimbus system
...looks similar to the one that initially got this thread started.
Wish I spoke Danish ???? :huh:
PP and PJ, looks like I'm headed to spotlight ...unless, as James Squire suggested, "Craftbrewer will release the 'No-Sparge Grain-Sock'!!!"
Ross?
Jimmy ..
I used what i had..(Still have not tried yet)
But got some PICKLE buckets from Maccas last week and looking into ways of using one.Instead of the
sock...Looks like with a bit of mod.it will fit and work out O.K.(My system) for 12 lt Brew.Approx.
Got a bigger system lurking in the background waiting for trials...of the first one..
Stuffed my first one(Brew that is... got an infection)..Now on to the second...
PJ
I used what i had..(Still have not tried yet)
But got some PICKLE buckets from Maccas last week and looking into ways of using one.Instead of the
sock...Looks like with a bit of mod.it will fit and work out O.K.(My system) for 12 lt Brew.Approx.
Got a bigger system lurking in the background waiting for trials...of the first one..
Stuffed my first one(Brew that is... got an infection)..Now on to the second...
PJ
