All In One Brewery...

[jimmysuperlative]

PJ it will be the same for me ...just came by 3 stainless kettles, and am looking to modify them for brewing. I was set to go for a three vessel system, but after these recent developments it could be easier to put all the work into a single kettle all-in-one system ...the initial result look good!

 

[Trough Lolly]

Keep up that enthusiasm Pat,

I love your work mate... the results will come (with time) in the tasting of some of these trial brews! Thought I'd jump in here to answer Smashed Jaffa's fine question. Get ready for a PistolPatch length post guys!!!

SJ,

As PistolPatch has eluded to, the method here is more of a 'no-sparge-full-volume method' as opposed to the standard 'no sparge' method used by others. Based on the large amount of reading/research I have been doing into both these methods I can probably explain both the why's and why not's of your question...

Ok, now the number one problem with 'no sparge' brewing is the low efficiency achieved due to leaving the grain un-rinsed if you will. ***Just to clarify this point, the 'no sparge' method involves mashing with normal water:grist ratios and then adding a charge of hot water at the end of the mash to make up to target volume.*** Rough estimates from brewers more experienced than I are that efficiencies using the plain 'no-sparge' method will be around 60-65%. This low efficiency can be countered by an increase in grain bill, this is difficult to work out how much more but a good place to start is to increase the grain bill by 25%.

I'd suggest you up the grainbill around 33% to get a more accurate compensatory effect - but anyway, it's only a starting point - you may not suffer as bad a drop in efficiency as PP demonstrated.

...I believe sparging exists for the reason that commercially it is not as economically viable to up the grain bill when by sparging you can achieve the correct gravity and volume simply by sacrificing the (very) slight maltier feel of the final product. However on a small scale as with homebrewing, it's not neccessary for economics to get in the way of high quality beers.

Quite so - larger scale breweries with economies of scale that we do not have to worry about will resort to sparging instead of upping the grainbill.

Now the above mentioned method of mashing with a 'no sparge' runoff and then adding required hot water to boil is used by many to great success and I do not see a problem with the method aside from the increase in grain (which results in needing more room in mash tun!).

Yes, and there's nothing new with the use of first runnings - perhaps you might want to have a search around for Partigyle brewing for some more related background info on it. For a handy primer on partigyle brewing...click here for Randy Mosher's article on it.

...The reason behind the 'no sparge' using the mash-out instead of mashing in full volume is to improve extraction efficiencies. As PP has shown, it takes longer to convert in a thin mash. Using normal water:grain ratio's will convert quicker and more efficiently. If using the 'no-sparge-full-volume' method then don't forget to up your grain bill. Perhaps setting your software to 60% efficiency will get you close to the mark.

Whilst PP has done a great job with his brew, and documenting the results (don't sweat the hop mixup it'll come out fine anyway!!) I think it may be a tad premature to assume that a "normal" mash will be a better outcome than a relatively thinner mash that uses a "full volume" infusion of mash water. To me, the jury's still out on whether a "thinner" mash will be a less efficient outcome. Mash efficiency is factored by a number of variables that will improve overall efficiency, such as changing the mash pH, adding minerals and salts, changing the gap on your grain mill etc etc...even stirring regularly to give the enzymes their best chance at all of the unconverted starches in the mashtun, hell, there are some thoughts on mashtun geometry that may affect efficiency, so there's still some work to be done before it can be assumed that one method is better than another, ceteris paribus...
And there's one other question that may be worth considering.....What is THE normal water to grain ratio anyway??? We assume it's a standard ratio that is commonly used in infusion mashing that involves a sparge step. If so, then we're borrowing a mash ratio from one method and applying it to another brewing technique. Sure, it's as good as any for a starting point, but basic brewing doesn't get overly dependant on the grist to water ratio since it all gets sorted out during the sparge anyway? So perhaps we need to think a bit more on what is the "normal" grist to water ratio in terms of no-sparge brewing?
And finally, if you are a ProMash user, you might want to read the article on "no-sparge" brewing on the ProMash website that helps you set up your recipes to cater for this brewing technique....click here.
Cheers,
TL

 

[James Squire]

Thanks again for the feedback TL,

Im really impressed with the amount of input you have to give!

I hadn't thought of the "NORMAL" water:grist ratio being what it is due to it suiting the sparge style brewing... perhaps you are correct and that this is not neccessarily the 'ideal' ratio... Trials will tell....

Off to read some Randy Mosher now....

JS

 

[PistolPatch]

I think I have fallen in love with brewing in the bag and I haven't tasted the final results yet (sounds like marriage.) I'll be a bit dark if the beer's no good because this method makes a lovely brew day for an amateur like myself.

Yesterday I brewed for my own interests and my own enjoyment. A major thing I wanted to do was work out the correct evaporation rate for my kettle. I also wanted to push this whole mashing thin to the absolute limit without really worrying about how crazy everyone would think I am - LOL

Yesterday's Brew

Same recipe as Wednesday (Ross's Schwartz) but only used 4kg of grain. Here's one interesting bit esp. for Trough!) I mashed at the ridiculous water to grain ratio of 12.62 litres/kg. So 4 kg was mashed with 45.6 litres of water. The only reason anyone would need to approach such levels is if they were losing over 10 litres per hour to evaporation so it's a pretty outrageous ratio.

This acheived an efficiency into the fermenter of 80.7% which is in line with the 81.3% I scored on Wednesday so efficiency is DEFINITELY NOT a problem.

Had to do a 2.5 hour boil to get down to a correct volume though I overshot this mark by a few litres and ended up with a final volume of 21.2 lts @ a gravity of 1.042 which is the equivalent of about 23 litres @ 1.039.

Mash Conversion

To keep myself amused, I took gravity readings quite often throughout the mash. For those interested, they were...

30 minutes = 1.020 50 minutes = 1.021 60 minutes = 1.022

70 minutes = 1.023 80 minutes = 1.023 90 minutes = 1.024

Pulled the bag out at 80 degrees but from what I've been told I could have pulled it straight out at 66 or left it in until boiling if I'd wanted to with no ill-effects. Took another reading at 80 degrees after pulling bag out. No change to the 90 minute reading.

So, from these figures there doesn't seem to be an issue with conversion times at all. I think the above figures would be similiar to any normal mash. Trough would know.

Brewing Mistakes

Did this one sober so not too many mistakes - lol. Even remebered to put in thw whirfloc and yeast nutrient!

1. Strike temperature was at 68 which was 2 above what I wanted. Didn't hit 66 until the 10 minute mark by which stage half of the conversion had taken place.

2. Added too much heat half way through mash but that wouldn't matter too much and I cooled it quickly using 2 freezer blocks in Ross's hop sock.

3. By the time I syphoned from the kettle the neighbours had arrived. Got distracted and syphoned pretty much everything into the fermenter so lots of trub in there. Whoops!

3. Did some naughty things with the yeast which I'm not going to mention here but am pretty sure no nasties crept in. Brew is very well under way and am now dropping the temp to 16 degres as I'm using US56 instead of the correct lager yeast.

Testing the Results

I'll filter, keg and force carbonate the first brew I did probably on Friday. This means no secondary and no cold-conditioing. My brew practices on this one were very poor so I'm not expecting anything great. The second brew, I'll try and cold condition for 5 days and keg without filtering to see how the clarity worked out (especially with all that trub!) There's a lunch on Aug 12 in Brisbane where there will be enough experienced brewers to taste the results and see if all is OK.

Cheers
PP

P.S. Trough: Another really interesting read from you. Thanks as always.

 

[smashed jaffa]

The Results are in! (well sort of)

I conducted my "no sparge - full boil volume" Vienna Lager experiment this afternoon, and I can honestly say that this was my easiest brew yet.

I'm not sure if it's because I am getting more familiar with my procedures or the ""no sparge - full boil volume" is a winner. I think a bit of both, certainly the clearest wort I have produced.

I apologise for the length of this post in advance. (still not as big as some of the other posts I have read, not naming any names .....PP oops.

I do 15 litre batches (kettle size limitations, BigW 19 litre pot!), then usually add 3 litres of cooled boiled water into the fermenter.

I am trying to get my measurments and water usage with my equipment correct, hence the full volume experiment. I thought by dumping all of the water needed into my mash tun, including 2 litres for Mash Tun deadspace, and 1 L/Kg grain absorption, I would be able fine tune my volumes needed.

Recipe Specifications
Vienna Lager
--------------------------
Batch Size: 15.00 L
Boil Size: 16.62 L
Estimated OG: 1.050 SG
Estimated Color: 22.3 EBC
Estimated IBU: 22.7 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 60.0 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amount Item Type % or IBU
1.50 kg Pilsner (Weyermann) (3.3 EBC) Grain 37.5 %
1.50 kg Vienna Malt (Weyermann) (5.9 EBC) Grain 37.5 %
0.50 kg Munich II (Weyermann) (16.7 EBC) Grain 12.5 %
0.25 kg Caramunich II (Weyermann) (124.1 EBC) Grain 6.3 %
0.25 kg Melanoidin (Weyermann) (59.1 EBC) Grain 6.3 %
25.00 gm Tettnang [3.90%] (60 min) Hops 14.0 IBU
20.00 gm Tettnang [3.90%] (30 min) Hops 8.6 IBU
1 Pkgs Bavarian Lager (Wyeast Labs #2206) Yeast-Lager


Mash Schedule: My Mash
Total Grain Weight: 4.00 kg
----------------------------
Name Description Step Temp Step Time
Mash in Add 22.00 L of water at 71.1 C 67.0 C 60 min

I set my efficiency at 60% as suggested by somebody earlier, and conducted a 90 min mash and stirred every half hour. I took a hydrometer reading on hour mark which was 1.052 (temp adjusted on beersmith), not far off my target of 1.052, (although as I add water into the fermenter anyways, no probs). Had 1.052 at the end of the mash too and actually ended up with a 62.2% efficiency into the boiler.

1 hour boil - everything as planned, lost just over 3 litres to boil ended up with just under 12 litres left, will probably lose another litre to trub even tho I use one of Ross' excellent hop socks. B)

If there is no real difference in quality/efficency by using this method, then I think it will definately help newbie AGers like myself come to grips with what at first seems like alot of complex information and setup costs, taking the plunge and producing fine beer from grain. If it is just a matter of spending another $1 or $2 on grain for each batch, to produce a maltier beer, and simplify your procedure in the process, then I think I will be exploring this method more in the future. I also intend to do this same recipe with the "no sparge Mash out" method, (partigyle - thhnkyou TL), I described in an earlier post next time to guage the difference if any. Will post my results once conducted.

here are some pics....

22 litres into Mash tun


Mashing away.


The Boil, (love that hopsock, held up by Luigi the spaghetti twurler!)


BTW.. This brew is chilling out on the concrete floor of my back shed, no chiller style(should get down to 7-8C tonight), til the morning when I will pitch the 2206 on her.


SJ

 

[recharge]

There is a brewer in Gidgegannup, WA who uses a system very similar to the one described here. He makes and sells fresh wort kits.
Recharge has used them, and maybe able to tell us more about the equipement used.
I have tasted the beer, not fantastic but not crap either.

Just seeing this thread for the first time.
But the guy in Gidge still uses a hlt then mashes in a pot with holes placed inside his kettle then slowly lifts the mash tun out with pullys as he is sparging. Still three pots anyway you look at them.

Sorry for delayed viewing and reply.

Richard

 

[poppa joe]

Smashed Jaffa..
Looks similiar to what i am getting together...16lt pre boil..approx.12lt..finished .
Done one already...
Lost it to Infection but..
Gonna do another when grains arrive..(hard to get down here..)
Pj

 

[smashed jaffa]

Smashed Jaffa..
Looks similiar to what i am getting together...16lt pre boil..approx.12lt..finished .
Done one already...
Lost it to Infection but..
Gonna do another when grains arrive..(hard to get down here..)
Pj

Poppa,

It's not a bad way to start as I have a $20, 19litre SS pot from BIGW and boil up on SWMBO's stove. No burner etc. I also use the no chill method so my setup costs have been minimal to date (excepting I spent what I saved on no chill and burner on the MT and SS urn!)

I have setup Beersmith to add approx 3 litres of water to fermenter after the boil, so my grain bill is calulated from a higher OG anyways.

I also believe by doing a smaller AG mash I can experiment more and try different brew styles without having to drink 23 litres every time!

Cheers,

SJ

P.S sorry about the slightly OT.

 

[PistolPatch]

Good on you Smashed for having a crack!

I think your efficiency is a lot better than you think. I had a few reads of your post but couldn't find volume into kettle. I would imagine you would have ended up with 18 litres at 1.052 pre-boil but this assumes no dead space in your esky. This gives 79% efficiency into the boiler with my rough calcs.

Would love to know how many litres went into your fermenter and at what gravity. (Also how much loss to trub). This way the correct efficiency can be determined. You'll get way above 60 for sure.

It'll be interesting when Jimmy and Poppa have a crack at it (good on 'em!) but without the esky - kettle and bag only. The bag eliminates any dead space problem and, as far as I can see, the method should yield pretty much identical efficiencies for all those using it.

Jimmy might want to wait until the first taste test this weekend but so far, the worts are tasting great. Looks like Poppa will have to give it a go as his grain is on the way - excellent!

If you do try the bag, just lift it out at the end of the mash - don't raise the mash to 80. The bag is easier to handle then and I've been informed there is no point raising to 80. Just lift straight up and twist it so the sweet liquor squeezes out. Forget tannins. Also, don't worry about HSA but then again I wouldn't go swinging the bag around my head! Have a bucket or large saucepan beside the kettle ready to dump the bag into.

If you want to get that bit of extra liquor out, let it sit in a bucket or large saucepan for ten minutes or so. Remove the bag and pour the gained liquor into your kettle. With such a nice efficeincy, doing this is probably not even worth it.

Safety: Don't try and drag the bag over the side of the kettle - you'll drag the kettle off the burner and get liquor everywhere.

To Clean the Bag: I left mine in the laundry sink overnight. By this stage I could lift it and there were no drips. Dump grain wherever (don't feed your goat with it because it will die as some of you will already know!), turn inside out, rinse under shower or tap and throw in washing machine.

This post is probably longer than Jaffa's now so I'll press, 'Submit.' LOL

Cheers
PP

Sort of Off-Topic: Just one more thing for those trying this method with small pots. Instead of no chill, if you have time, you should be able to cool your kettle in the laundry sink. If I was doing it this way, I'd leave a stirrer in the boil for the last 15 minutes. Sterilise the lid of the kettle with some no-rinse steriliser and put that almost on for the last few minutes. At flame off, put the lid on as much as you can with the stirrer poking out. Then cover all this with a nappy or towell you have washed with napisan. Put in laundry sink and run the water so a little escapes through the plug hole - not much. Give it a little agitation every 5 or so minutes and your wort should be cool enough to pitch in no time.

 

[poppa joe]

Instead of grain bag..I have cut down a small food grade bucket..(Removable handle + a stainless drip tray to sit across boiler for draining) thanks to the big "M" near me.
Have a small 3/8 IM Chiller...Thanks to local G>Sale..$2.00.....
I do have 46lt plastic boiler waiting for trials...2400 w.element..(Maybe two) +Small immersion element .
Waiting for grains to give it another go..
PJ

 

[jimmysuperlative]

Going a similar way to PJ ...

Will use a 20L "handy pail" with a screened/mesh bottom (haven't worked out how yet) that will be suspended inside a 15gal pot.

Don't know whether to rig up a pump to get some circulation happening? or just stir it occasionally ...anyway ATM waiting for grains as well.

 

[smashed jaffa]

PP

I ended up with what I thought was 15 litres into the kettle. I was counting on 2 litres lost to MT deadspace, but now relise it is more closer to three. I wonder if anyone else using a gatorade MT with a false bottom is getting this amount of deadspace?(maybe I should start a new thread). I did my deadspace calc with water and no grain, I guess I am losing more than I think when I add grain to it. :blink:

Anyway, I have just syphoned 10 litres into the fermenter (that what the fermenter says!), although my own calcs from my kettle say 12 litres( I lost 0.5 litres to trub). Hydrometer reading says 1.066.

But here's the reason for my doing this experiment anyway... Is my kettle readings out,.... or is my Coopers fermenter measurements are wrong? Oh well I guess I'll have to check them all again). :angry:

I then added 3 litres of cooled boiled water into the fermenter to bring it up to 13 litres at 1.051. Pitched 600 ml yeast at 12 C.

Now I'll just have to wait 8 weeks to taste! <_<

I tasted what came out of the hydro reading and it was sweeeet! Maltier than I have had before at the same stage, and clearer.

I will definately try this method again, once I fix up my measurements.

Cheers,

SJ

 

[poppa joe]

I have pumps..???????
2..Grundfos electric....1 bilge pump..drilll operated......1 pond pump..1 Small 24v....
Just have to FIND OUT if they ARE SUITABLE FOR ANY OF THE Operations
Forgot to mention i have a 25lt plastic boiler....20lt plastic boiler ...Small urns 1 / 12lt..2 / 8lt...
All sitting on a shelf ....."waiting" for some kind brewer to use them....
GGGGGEEEEzzzzz they look lonely and unwanted.....
Cheers
PJ

 

[PistolPatch]

Howdy Jimmy and Poppa!

I'm going to explain the, 'cognitive dissonance,' I mentioned early in this thread when forumming under the influence. Understanding it will save you and others a lot of money!

'Cognitive dissonance,' is when you buy or put a lot of thought into something and therefore want to make it work. Your mind then, very efficiently, cancels out other ideas!

Man, have I done this with brewing! Come and look in my cupboard - it's very embarrassing! This is why I get slightly pasionate in helping others save some time and money.

At this stage, I think both a pump and a bucket are not worth considering for reasons I've given below. I'm pretty confident that the two brews I have done will produce very good beer and we'll have some results on this in 6 days. I brewed that very badly too!

Two things. If mashing in a bag works, why would you want a bucket or a pump? It's more expensive (pump), harder to manage (how will you raise the bucket gradually?) and there is no logical reason or evidence to say it will result in a clearer beer. It DEFINITELY won't with only a bucket.

If mashing in a bag does not work, then why would using a bucket or a pump work any better? In my brews and from what Jaffa said there is no clarity issue with this method.

The ONLY question is a taste one which we haven't quite answered yet. But, taste is really only going to be affected by mashing in a high ratio which will not change with the bucket and pump method.

If anything, a bucket and pump will give you a poorer beer as you will be extracting ugly stuff from the top of the, 'grain bed.' There is not one advantage that can be gained from a pump. Please don't buy one!

The bucket can stay - use it to dump your mash bag in!

If you want to test the method without making a bag, just do as one of the really experienced brewers suggested to me and use a pillow slip.

One final thought, a really experienced brewer, not from around here loves this idea. Can't see ANY problems with it.

So, please, don't go wasting any money or thought on buckets and pumps. Go the pillow slip! I'd love to hear the results. I'm 99% sure that you'll get exactly the same results as I have.

So Jimmy - become a stirrer!!!!!

Excuse the wind of passion but by now you know it only comes from a desire to steer others on a far straighter course than I've been on.

LOL
Pat

 

[PistolPatch]

Howdy Jaffa,

Firstly I'd just like to say how much I enjoy your obvious enthusiasm for brewing. Love seeing people with your attitude. Got any sisters? lol!

It can be bloody hard when you're starting AG to work out all the figures. I'm still trying to make sense of my evaporation figures! Often your first AG goes perfectly and then subsequent ones throw you into a fast but not fast enough learning curve.*

I'm reading through your post now (an advantage of having 2 screens and probably why I write such long posts!) and already I can see where a lot of efficiency is going. Because you are mashing in the esky and at such small volumes, dead space is a real killer. My mashing in a bag calculation gave you 18 'real' litres going into the kettle - there is no dead space. You've written 15 litres but wort at this temperature is actually a higher volume and when converted to room temperature you actually had 14.25 real litres into your kettle! 14.25/18.0 times the efficiency I was getting of say 80% gives 63.3% already without losses to trub!

So, our real efficiency figures match, as they should.

Your efficiency into the fermenter (10 litres at 1.066) is around 55.5%.

A few suggestions...

When you drain your liquor from the esky, tilt it and let the liquor run through a hose into the kettle for as long as you like. Probably take the hose out for the last 20 minutes though. Tannin is not an issue.

The other thing I do is tilt the kettle when I turn the flame off. This allows all the trub to settle in a confined space. When I syphon, if I'm concentrating, I pull the syphon as soon as the dirt comes through. My wastage is therefore only around 4-500ml.

So tilting is great. Syphoming is also great if you have an auto-syphon (a whole $15!). While simple, it gives far more control and versatility than any other method I'm aware of.

Only other thing I can suggest is if the beer from mashing in a bag works out well, ditch the esky as a mash tun and use a bag!

This would leave you with the cognitive dissonance problem though of making use of your esky! My esky, which I've always used as a mash tun prior to the bag thing, is mainly used as a, 'fermenting fridge.' It is brilliant! Would your round esky hold a fermenter without a tap?

Hope this was of some help.

Good on ya,
Pat

* Check out the PM Screwtop sent me. You'll die laughing. It's post #16 of Funniest Posts And Pm's You've Read

 

[jimmysuperlative]

yeah, I know your right PP ...I can "overthink" things to the point where ideas just get shelved :wacko:

while i call myself a believer in the K.I.S.S. (Keep It Simple, Stupid) approach, I admit to being overcome by the "bling" of brewing systems and gadgets ...i want it to work first and foremost, but if it can look good too, well ...

so thanks for the wake up call ...and thankyou for the illustrated step-by-step "how to brew" outline. My God! What could be easier than this?

If it works (and it looks like it will), who gives a shite how I get the result!!

>>insert quote about the road less travelled here<<

 

[poppa joe]

PP..
Jimmy mentioned pumps...(mine cost me ...just about zilch..0)
I got them but dont know ...yet.. what to do with themmm....
I got a grain bag...big one..Bucket easier to pull up..than grain bag..Sit it on the drip tray let it drain..
Got all this to try....But no grain...AAAArrGGGHHH.

Cheers
PJ

 

[PistolPatch]

Thanks for such a great reply Jimmy - makes my passionate post worthwhile! I am such a gadget man as well. It's ridiculous! And, it really is ridiculous to get so sidetracked from the end result. Thank God, there is also one part of me that loves effective simplicity above anything else. (Sounds like a quote from Road Less Travelled - lol!) Thanks Jimmy.

Poppa, I'm pretty bloody sure that you are the bloke that traded the pink paper clip for a house. Is this true? You get everything for zilch - lol! You say pumps as in the plural. Christ, how many pumps have you got? You never give too much away in your posts Poppa so I'm going to have a guess here that you have a grain bag AND a bucket? What happend to the ag pipe sock or is this your grain bag? Making me work hard here Poppa and it's 12:20am - thank God I have tomorrow off!

I reckon the mash bag I made up is easier than any bucket to pull up. Why? The weight you have to hold up is quickly reduced as the water/liquor drains extremely quickly when you lift the bag and give it a spin - like wringing dry a towell.

Lifting a bucket is going to be bloody heavy. If it's designed correctly, as in with a very fine mesh, the drainage from the bucket is going to have to be very slow so you'll need a lot stronger arm than I have. Even if you lift the whole bucket out and dump it in a drip tray, it's going to be bloody heavy if above waist height, as my kettle is. Then, you need a drip tray and then, you are exposing all your wort to oxygen. Some people say this oxygenation is a myth but I'm certainly not at a level of expertise where I'd like to test the waters to such an extent. Also, more people agree with this than don't so you are unneccessarily playing with fire here.

Did you manage to track down the source of your infection? You probaby have but thought I'd mention it just in case as there was one guy who lost over 1000 litres through not being able to identify the source. (In his kettle tap by the way.)

Crikey, that's way too much from me tonight! Poppa, get your lovely wife to make up a sock! Why not?

As for the pumps, I have some ideas for you on that but PM me with what the pumps actually are as we are probably way off-topic now. Whoops!

A very late goodnight!
PP

MORNING EDIT: James, sorry for gettig so carried away here last night and getting so far off your original idea of a bucket and pump. Despite all I've written above, the bucket will work but you'll need an easy way of raising it slowly. Still think the pump is obsolete though. Why do I write so much - grrrrr!!! Will try and keep my mouth shut as much as possible from now until the taste test!

 

[James Squire]

Just got in this morning to find all of Pat's new posts!!!

After finally getting through them all, I shot off a PM to him but in returning here to post I've seen his updated edit! Gold! Mate, what kind of person would I be if I got my knickers in a knot over other people having opinions and advice differing from mine! I, as always, am excited to see other people working on improving their brewing. After all, that is why we are all addicted to this website isn't it. :blink:

Anyway, seeing as I missed it in my PM, chill out Pat and keep up the good work. You are my very own ambassador for this thread and without you it would have died weeks ago!

I'll be (with a bit of luck... again!) finally recieving my new kettle today! :beerbang: Which means that I too will soon be swinging this method into action! Only need an immersion heater to complete my (bare minimum) brewing bling and then im up and running. Good luck to all the others that are up here on the bandwagon with Pat and I and fingers crossed for the taste test Pat! :chug:

Cheers,

JS

 

[James Squire]

Thats mad! :beerbang: My new 40 Litre Urn just arrived!!! :super:

Totally pumped to get brewing ASAP! :super:

Sorry for lame post :unsure: but im pretty excited about this new addition to the brewery!!!

JS