2 Tier Brewstand With March Pump.

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Hello Dave,
I have read this thread a couple of times over the last few days, as I am just about to start building a set up similiar to yours. You seem to have done a top job. I am using three 50 litre CUB barrels. I like your idea of using the cut off lid as the false bottom. The brass bung that you have at the bottom of the mash tun is interesting. I know this sounds like a stupid question, but what does it do? Does it act as a strainer of sorts? Is there much that you would change if you started again? What sort of seals did you use where your bulkhead fittings sealed against the kegs, they looked like red fibre washers. I know I have asked alot of questions, but I am just trying to get a few things straight in my head before I start.
Cheers
billygoat
 
Hello Dave,
I have read this thread a couple of times over the last few days, as I am just about to start building a set up similiar to yours. You seem to have done a top job. I am using three 50 litre CUB barrels. I like your idea of using the cut off lid as the false bottom. The brass bung that you have at the bottom of the mash tun is interesting. I know this sounds like a stupid question, but what does it do? Does it act as a strainer of sorts? Is there much that you would change if you started again? What sort of seals did you use where your bulkhead fittings sealed against the kegs, they looked like red fibre washers. I know I have asked alot of questions, but I am just trying to get a few things straight in my head before I start.
Cheers
billygoat

Gday bg,

thanks, the brass bung acts a mini manifold below the false bottom, i suppose it's like a secondary 'filter'..
another bonus it has is when i'm cleaning the system and recirculating 5 or so litres of pbw through the pump it restricts the flow and stops the pump drawing air, stops the whirlpool..

yeah mate the seals are just bog standard fibre washers from cunnings, the best tip i can give with the bulkhead fittings etc is to always have a couple of extra flanged nuts on hand as i have broken two so far, lucky i had spares.

i don't think i would change anything apart from putting the casters on the stand immediately instead of dragging it around the shed for months, imho the best part of the rig is the CIP drain valve below the tun, i can literally have the tun emptied of the spent grain, rinsed and recirculating hot water from the HLT before the kettle comes to boil after transfer.

sorry for the late reply, limited access to interweb atm.

hope this helps :icon_cheers:

Dave
 
hey Yardy; WHENS THE BREWDAY :icon_drunk: :icon_drunk: :icon_drunk:
 
hey Yardy; WHENS THE BREWDAY


gday kev, dunno about a brewday because i'm on a job with a shitty roster but you, andrew, greg etc will have to come out for a few beers when i do get home :icon_chickcheers:


Hello Dave,
thanks for the reply and tips.
Cheers
billygoat

no problem bg, would like to see some pics of the build when you get into it :)

cheers

Dave
 
gday kev, dunno about a brewday because i'm on a job with a shitty roster but you, andrew, greg etc will have to come out for a few beers when i do get home :icon_chickcheers:




cheers

Dave


Sounds like a plan.

QldKev
 
Hello Dave,
I have read this thread a couple of times over the last few days, as I am just about to start building a set up similiar to yours. You seem to have done a top job. I am using three 50 litre CUB barrels. I like your idea of using the cut off lid as the false bottom. The brass bung that you have at the bottom of the mash tun is interesting. I know this sounds like a stupid question, but what does it do? Does it act as a strainer of sorts? Is there much that you would change if you started again? What sort of seals did you use where your bulkhead fittings sealed against the kegs, they looked like red fibre washers. I know I have asked alot of questions, but I am just trying to get a few things straight in my head before I start.
Cheers
billygoat

hows the build going bg ?

Dave
 
looks great billygoat Any chances of a few pics of the 3-ring burner mount. Currently trying to figure out how to mount mine to the frame. Also - where did you get the sight glass from?

Cheers
-cdbrown
 
Hello CD,
the three ring burner is clamped to the frame. It is a bit hard to take a photo of it but I will give it a try over the weekend. I have welded two pieces of all thread to the stand. They come up between the three pipes that supply the three rings. A piece of metal with two holes drilled in it, is then tightened up against the burner pipes. It works ok and can be easily removed. The sight glass is just a length of PTFE 1/4 inch tubing I had laying around. The fitting is a 1/2 inch elbow with a 1/4 inch tube fitting screwed in it. The tubing probably needs to be bigger.
Cheers
billygoat
 
Hello Dave,
I have nearly finished the build. Gave it a clean today and pumped cleaning solution around the lines and vessels. I have found I need to change a couple of small things but it could be used ok as is. Hope to put some grain in it over the next week or two. Need to get to Melbourne to buy it. I used your idea for the false bottom. The picture isn't great quality but it gives you some idea.
Cheers
billygoat


Gday BG,

nice job mate, glad you got some ideas from the build ( and they worked :p )

would like to see some more pics, especially the MLT if you get a chance

cheers

Dave
 
hi billygoat,

if that's a nasa burner under the kettle, could I get same photo's of how that is mounted, I will need to mount my nasa some how.

looks great by the way.

I was going to have my pump the other way (i.e the in port facing up) as I believe it helps with priming.

cheers
Matt
 
No I haven't Dave. I have only pumped cleaning solution through all the lines and valves. Do you think it helps?
Cheers


well all systems differ mate but if I recirculate 5 litres of PBW etc without the bung/manifold, the whirlpool causes the pump to draw air, probably won't be a problem but on another note the slots in your false bottom look a little oversized so the bung might be a good idea.
on the trial run when your'e ready to recirc and transfer just start off with a very slow pump until the grain bed sets, see how it goes and check your clarity into the kettle, imho this is just as important as clarity out of the kettle, never know you might never need the bung.

do you have the same setup in case you need to fit it ?

mlt2.jpg


mlt3.jpg


mlt1.jpg


cheers

Dave
 
Hello Dave,
Its not the same set up but I could fit a bung if needed. I have been pumping PBW through that outlet without it whirlpooling. I can also pump out through the outlet that goes through the false bottom. The slots in the false bottom are cutting disc width. I have another spare lid that I can make another false bottom if need be.
Cheers
 
Hello Dave,
Its not the same set up but I could fit a bung if needed. I have been pumping PBW through that outlet without it whirlpooling. I can also pump out through the outlet that goes through the false bottom. The slots in the false bottom are cutting disc width. I have another spare lid that I can make another false bottom if need be.
Cheers

Get some of those Stainless Steel specific cutting discs they are only ~1.5mm thick to cut real quick, but that's not important, it's the width that's the cool bit for this application. Probably won't need to make another falsy though, I've found that grain will bridge over a surprisingly large gap given time.
 
gday BG, nice job mate, what type of hose is that you're using ?

ss compression fittings make life easy don't they :icon_cheers:

cheers

Dave
 

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