The Brauduino (Matho’s Controller) Build/Advice/Question Thread

[SBOB]

Thanks Lael

Can you explain what the 'Heat in Boil" setting means in the latest software?
What value should it be set at?

The manual should be able to tell you what each of the settings relate to

In summary its the following
'Heating power percentage applied to heating element during boil.'
Meaning what % of the full power of your heating element is required to maintain a boil
e.g. if you had a 2400w element in something like 30-40 litres it would likely be something ~100%.
If you had a 5000W element in something of the same size it would be much lower as 100% power would be too much heat

I have attached it to save some searching, but
-Its available via their dropbox link if you follow it from their github page - https://github.com/ArdBir/Open-ArdBir

View attachment ArdBir Manual ENG (2.8.x).pdf

 

[ramu_gupta]

The manual should be able to tell you what each of the settings relate to

In summary its the following
'Heating power percentage applied to heating element during boil.'
Meaning what % of the full power of your heating element is required to maintain a boil
e.g. if you had a 2400w element in something like 30-40 litres it would likely be something ~100%.
If you had a 5000W element in something of the same size it would be much lower as 100% power would be too much heat

I have attached it to save some searching, but
-Its available via their dropbox link if you follow it from their github page - https://github.com/ArdBir/Open-ArdBir

Thanks SBOB

My LCD screens calls it "Heat in Boil" and the manual calls it "PWM". Didn't know they were the same..
Will set it for 100% for 2000W element in 28L boil.

Cheers

 

[LiquidCurrency]

Thanks SBOB

My LCD screens calls it "Heat in Boil" and the manual calls it "PWM". Didn't know they were the same..
Will set it for 100% for 2000W element in 28L boil.

Cheers

How can it reduce the Heat In Boil when the element is only running off an SSR? SSR's are simply on and off. Or do they not stay on the whole time and switch a lot more during the boil??

 

[SBOB]

How can it reduce the Heat In Boil when the element is only running off an SSR? SSR's are simply on and off. Or do they not stay on the whole time and switch a lot more during the boil??

They switch on and off quickly, using pulse width modulation (in this instance) is to essentially reduce the average voltage sent to a load
The controllers PID loop essentially turns the SSR on and off multiple times in a second to reduce the power % being produced

• Always on - 100%
• Always off - 0%
• switch on/off at different rates for anywhere in between

Wiki and the Arduino site will explain it in more logical terms than me (most likely )
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulse-width_modulation
https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/PWM

 

[MastersBrewery]

Breakbeer pmed me regarding the active wiring diagram particularly the 3 connections @ the main power in, this pin connects to 3 locations but can daisy chain, be jumped from one to the next in what ever order best suits you. The attached image has been altered the black line is a deletion.
hope This helps some.

Mike

 

[crozdog]

Thanks Lael & SBOB for the code updating info.

Can 1 of you pls provide the links to the OneWire and PID_v1 libraries?

Also, has there been any progress on sourcing pots for malt pipes & nice thick filter plates (top & bottom)?

​only asking as i have the controller built and want to get to work on the brewery itself.

Beers
Croz

 

[SBOB]

Can 1 of you pls provide the links to the OneWire and PID_v1 libraries?

they are in the links on the youtube video Lael posted


Links:
Arduino Software:
https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software

Arduino Libraries:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gq9ou60md4j...

ArdBir Dropbox Link:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/96o6i39o50...

 

[crozdog]

Thanks mate.

 

[crozdog]

Thanks mate.


I found
OneWire here
https://github.com/PaulStoffregen/OneWire

and

PID_v1 here
https://github.com/br3ttb/Arduino-PID-Library

 

[MastersBrewery]

Thanks Lael & SBOB for the code updating info.

Can 1 of you pls provide the links to the OneWire and PID_v1 libraries?

Also, has there been any progress on sourcing pots for malt pipes & nice thick filter plates (top & bottom)?

​only asking as i have the controller built and want to get to work on the brewery itself.

Beers
Croz

I've seen the samples Lael has chased down, if I were to build again I'd be waiting on these. Lael has set a high standard with the controller, that hasn't shifted with the rest of the parts he is sourcing. But give the bloke some space to breath, I'm sure he'll post something when he believes it's appropriate and he has his ducks lined up as they should be.
Mike

Ed: bloody phone!!

 

[lespaul]

Ok, so im having a little trouble deciphering this.

Is it possible to wire the active up with 2 wires out of the SSR, as per diagram ive drawn?

I just cant fit the 3 wires into the spade fitting as per original diagram, outlined in yellow.

This would then mean i dont have to wire the purple wire in the diagram.

edit: also for the new red line ive drawn (not straight line) can i just use the low amp speaker cable, or do i use the 2.5mm twin and earth cable?

Thanks

 

[SBOB]

Ok, so im having a little trouble deciphering this.

Is it possible to wire the active up with 2 wires out of the SSR, as per diagram ive drawn?

I just cant fit the 3 wires into the spade fitting as per original diagram, outlined in yellow.

This would then mean i dont have to wire the purple wire in the diagram?

edit: also for the new red line ive drawn (not straight line) can i just use the low amp speaker cable, or do i use the 2.5mm twin and earth cable?

Thanks

not sure I follow that diagram but, from the main power in it just needs to get to the three points directly (i.e. not switched)
- SSR 1 - 240V in
- Board - Pump In
- 12V Transfomer - 240V In

So for your drawing I would probably go
Main Power Socket
-> SSR (2.5mm)
-> Board Pump In (whatever cable you are using)

Then take a 240V out from the SSR 240V in (that you just took from the main power socket) and daisy chain the SSR's Power in to make a connection to the 12V Transformer (which will be 'over there' in that direction with regards to the board layout anyway)
I would just use the same 2.5mm cable for this for 'consistency' in your wiring

(which, I think is what your redline is asking whether that would be ok)

 

[MastersBrewery]

That will work, I'd prefere the other way, input> ssr> pump and input> 12v suppy as I've illustrated a few posts back.

Mike

 

[lespaul]

OK so I just wired it all up except the earthing wires the main in and out (ran out of spades!!!).
Dunno if anyone can find any faults before I take it to a sparky?
And if anyone knows or is a sparky who can check it in Brisbane let me know!!

Only took me 7hrs and a t shirt (got thermal paste on it somehow?!).
Good cricket watching activity

 

[SBOB]

OK so I just wired it all up except the earthing wires the main in and out (ran out of spades!!!).
Dunno if anyone can find any faults before I take it to a sparky?
And if anyone knows or is a sparky who can check it in Brisbane let me know!!

Only took me 7hrs and a t shirt (got thermal paste on it somehow?!).
Good cricket watching activity

a couple of quick ones....
1_ where does the neutral/black wire heading out of the bottom of the image head? just realised that was the thermometer probe..scratch that
2_ join earth circuits from top circuit and bottom circuit
3_ earth the 12v transformer
4_ cant tell, but make sure your SSR 12v ins are correct polarity (opposite from top/bottom ssr due to swapped +/- locations)

 

[lespaul]

ok that diagram didnt probably explain it correctly

My problem is the area circled in yellow has 3 points and three wires don't fit into the yellow spade. so how do I wire this as per the original diagram posted by MB?

My alternative is posted below in blue. i.e do i either wire up the green or the blue wires... everything in red i have done.

But from what SBOB was saying it cant be switched before being sent to the 12v?

Sorry if this wasn't explained well the first time (or most likely this time either haha)

Cheers

 

[SBOB]

ok that diagram didnt probably explain it correctly

My problem is the area circled in yellow has 3 points and three wires don't fit into the yellow spade. so how do I wire this as per the original diagram posted by MB?

My alternative is posted below in blue. i.e do i either wire up the green or the blue wires... everything in red i have done.

But from what SBOB was saying it cant be switched before being sent to the 12v?

Sorry if this wasn't explained well the first time (or most likely this time either haha)

Cheers

Both green and blue wires achieve the same result (direct, always on 240v). So wire it up using the blue line you have drawn.

 

[barneey]

Just a quick question, I intend to use 2 elements with my build, with a couple of pumps (240v 9W original BM ones) is it OK to run both these pumps of the singular pump circuit?

 

[zwitter]

Hi Barnsey

Yes can run both pumps of the one pump output.

With regards to the order of the connections for the active and neutral when daisy chaining. Must connect 20amp cable direct from socket in to SSR and SSR out to socket out. Do not daisy chain the 20amp through the relay connection or the power supply. Can run from the SSR input to the relay and the power supply with smaller wire.




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[lespaul]

Sorry if that was for my benefit zwitter, it went over my head. Can you make reference to the diagram I drew?
I've wired it up as per blue wire.
If it wasn't for me disregard.