stc 1000+

[Mattrox]

Understanding it a lot better now.
When making a picprog folder, as you said, it needs to be called the same as your downloaded sketch.
I also save to cookie as well so opening hex editor next time, values are still set.
This looks better for a 4 day ferment @18, a 2 day diacetyl rest@21 for days, then back to 18 for time remaining for a total of 14 days in primary followed by a 7 day rest @1deg.

Prog 0.PNG

Graph.PNG

That looks good, personally I'd leave it 6 days before raising the temps for the yeast to finish up. It accounts for any lag time you may get. Remember, automation is so you don't have to keep checking all the time.


I am tweaking a lager profile too, as well as a Nottingham cool ferment profile.

My hardware has not arrived yet, so I am going to work on a saison profile too. Hopefully that sets it up pretty well for the future.

 

[Moad]

Awesome crusty glad you got it sorted mate.

I'll confirm the stc version from that aliezpress link shortly. It should arrive this week.

I'll offer flashed units for $35 delivered if it works out.

 

[Crusty]

That looks good, personally I'd leave it 6 days before raising the temps for the yeast to finish up. It accounts for any lag time you may get. Remember, automation is so you don't have to keep checking all the time.


I am tweaking a lager profile too, as well as a Nottingham cool ferment profile.

My hardware has not arrived yet, so I am going to work on a saison profile too. Hopefully that sets it up pretty well for the future.

When ramping from say 18 to 21 for 48hrs, do you ramp over 24hrs or just an hour like mine was set at. I know that the fridge can go from 18 to 21 in that time but what if it takes longer, say 2hrs?
The same for cold crashing? I would normally just set it to 1deg & away it goes but when inputting figures to the hex editor, would it be better to ramp down over a 24hr period?

 

[welly2]

Awesome crusty glad you got it sorted mate.

I'll confirm the stc version from that aliezpress link shortly. It should arrive this week.

I'll offer flashed units for $35 delivered if it works out.

I'll put in a reservation now for one!

 

[Mattrox]

When ramping from say 18 to 21 for 48hrs, do you ramp over 24hrs or just an hour like mine was set at. I know that the fridge can go from 18 to 21 in that time but what if it takes longer, say 2hrs?
The same for cold crashing? I would normally just set it to 1deg & away it goes but when inputting figures to the hex editor, would it be better to ramp down over a 24hr period?

It will just apply heat until it reaches 21.

It probably doesn't matter how fast you ramp for a 3 degree rise.


I pitch warm and chill quickly to 18 and it has produced good results and that is like 25 to 27 down to 18 in 4 hrs.....

 

[nosco]

Just about to try and flash mine. If anyone is interested, to read the manual from the files you get at github in Windows open up the README.md file in the usermanual folder with MarkdownPad. Then you can read it with pics that go with it.

 

[nosco]

I used a sketch from the web hex editor. It took me about 5 attempt to get a good connection and then it worked :super: :drinks: Now I just have to figure out how to use it :unsure: :blink:

Any one have a good handle on what to set the set point and ramping at and how to run the profiles?

 

[nosco]

I should have clarified. How does the set point and ramping affect the profiles? The manual was a bit confusing but then it was late when I read it. I'll have another read.

 

[Crusty]

I've managed to put a profile in the controller & have set up another two profiles to flash but having trouble working out how to flash it from the hex editor.
I get the standard warning



but get lost from there. I did the first one but for the life of me, I can't figure out how to do it again.
Can someone guide me through the process of what to do next.
Yes, I admit I'm a dumb ass!

 

[Mattrox]

I've managed to put a profile in the controller & have set up another two profiles to flash but having trouble working out how to flash it from the hex editor.
I get the standard warning

Hex editor.PNG

but get lost from there. I did the first one but for the life of me, I can't figure out how to do it again.
Can someone guide me through the process of what to do next.
Yes, I admit I'm a dumb ass!

Rename the file picprog.ino and put it in your picprog folder.

 

[nosco]

This is my version. Some one please correct me if Im wrong.

1. Go to the web editor.
Select the sketch version you need. Vanilla in my case. Im still not sure on the setting on the right hand side but fill out the progs as you need. Press save cookie so its saves your setting.
2. Press the "Download Sketch" button at the bottom of the page. You get the option of "open with- Arduino IDE. OR "Save File". I selected save file wich by default goes to my desktop. I then moved the saved file to the "picprog" folder that I had already created. From there you do it the same as normal.

Sorry for the "excessive" use of inverted commas.

PS I thought it was funny that when you turn off the 1000+, instead of turning off its reads "OFf" on the display. I really need to get a project case and some bling on this unit now.

 

[Mattrox]

I got the Arduino Uno board today.

I messed around with some fermentation profiles

pr0 just an Ale at 18 - raised temp to 20 for 2 days then back to 18 then cold crash
pr1 a lager at 12 a D-rest then 12 then lager at 7 deg for a couple weeks
pr2 a faux lager Nottingham profile at 15
pr3 a saison... start at 24 ramp to 30 back to 24 then finish at 20
pr4 as is on the editor site just 16
pr5 a steam beer at 18 then a 20 deg rest for 2 days, back to 18 to finish two weeks in FV then lagering temps

Some styles I am unfamiliar with but have put the set points in and can manually adjust more easily this way when it comes to actually brewing them. I also saved them to the cookie so view them on the editor at any time. It's a starting point anyway.

I downloaded the vanilla version and 2 probe version and uploaded the vanilla version to the Uno. Very easy to do.

The correct STC 1000 is on the slow boat from china but the parts to mod it to a 2 probe version are on their way too. I'm going the chip resistor and 3 post screw terminal. I'll let you know how my rusty soldering skillz are.

At least I know my parts list for the project box, from building up a non-modifiable unit. And I know where not to cut a hole for the flush mounted power point with the hole saw too. Now I need to order a 35mm push on terrarium style air vent. I guess a vented box can't hurt h34r: .

 

[Crusty]

This has to be the best thing to happen in home brewing without a doubt.
The ability to fully programme a $20.00 STC controller that can hold temps for x amount of time, followed by a ramp for x amount of time then back to initial primary temp followed by a cold crash without even needing to go anywhere near the controller. The ability to input your figures in the hex editor & then flash it to the STC is just plain FREAKING AWESOME! We owe alphaomega or Matt big time!
What a guy & an absolute genius. Cheers to you buddy!

 

[SBOB]

what words/chips am i looking for to see if either of the 2 stc's I have are compatible with this? I cant find a definitive post saying 'If it says xyz then its compatible'??

 

[Crusty]

what words/chips am i looking for to see if either of the 2 stc's I have are compatible with this? I cant find a definitive post saying 'If it says xyz then its compatible'??

Look at the board when you pull it apart.
A 400P board & your good to go.

 

[SBOB]

Look at the board when you pull it apart.
A 400P board & your good to go.

A 400 P.PNG

One's an 'Eitech' brand, which is currently running the fridge but based on a previous post by someone its likely not suitable

The other is a plain STC1000 and if i remove the board slightly I can see
A400_P
Version 1.0
54.7x66.5mm
Thickness 1.2mm

Looks like I have a winner?

 

[Mattrox]

One's an 'Eitech' brand, which is currently running the fridge but based on a previous post by someone its likely not suitable

The other is a plain STC1000 and if i remove the board slightly I can see
A400_P
Version 1.0
54.7x66.5mm
Thickness 1.2mm

Looks like I have a winner?

Yep A400_P is the one!

 

[SBOB]

Yep A400_P is the one!

Thanks

Now for the shopping list. Not in a rush so china options are fine
Is all I need the following (please let me know if any of these are way off)
- Arduino Uno + USB Cable.. this one im not sure if there are 'differences' between models.
e.g. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-ATmega328P-CH340G-UNO-R3-Board-Compatible-USB-Cable-For-Arduino-DIY-EC-/181433800259
- Dupont Male to Male cables,
e.g. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Cables-Shield-Male-To-Male-2-54MM-1P-1P-Dupont-For-Arduino-40pin-20cm-/400666077229
- 5 pin female header,
e.g. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10pcs-2-54mm-Single-Row-Female-Pitch-Header-Socket-Connector-Pin-Strip-/130905219470

missing anything?

 

[Crusty]

Thanks

Now for the shopping list. Not in a rush so china options are fine
Is all I need the following (please let me know if any of these are way off)
- Arduino Uno + USB Cable.. this one im not sure if there are 'differences' between models.
e.g. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-ATmega328P-CH340G-UNO-R3-Board-Compatible-USB-Cable-For-Arduino-DIY-EC-/181433800259
- Dupont Male to Male cables,
e.g. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Cables-Shield-Male-To-Male-2-54MM-1P-1P-Dupont-For-Arduino-40pin-20cm-/400666077229
- 5 pin female header,
e.g. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10pcs-2-54mm-Single-Row-Female-Pitch-Header-Socket-Connector-Pin-Strip-/130905219470

missing anything?

All good.

 

[Moad]

V1.0 a400_P

1.1 no good

Should have the Ali express one I linked earlier here tomorrow will post back