Stc 1000 Dual Temperature Controller

[Ironhorse]

Depends what you want to use it for , but 5 amps is very light on....probably not well suited for a fridge or heating element...any electrical experts out there with comment? (I'm no sparky) . From what i have seen, the decent ones seem to be a minimum of 10 amps, keg king sells a fully wired 16 amp one.

 

[Spiesy]

there's heaps of them available mate.

I just ordered this one HERE

$21.50, to your door.

 

[Muscovy_333]

there's heaps of them available mate.

I just ordered this one HERE

$21.50, to your door.

I ordered 2 from the same supplier yesterday.
Takes the stc count up to 5!

Love em!

 

[Boogaone]

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Temperature-Con...=item2c67ce92f8

or local

http://brewadelaide.com/retail/index.php?m...products_id=354

but out of stock

the one in your link only seems to cool or heat but not both and is 5amp only

there's heaps of them available mate.

I just ordered this one HERE

$21.50, to your door.

I ordered 2 from the same supplier yesterday.
Takes the stc count up to 5!

Love em!

While reading the listing I must have missed the part about heating "and" cooling separately and I'm assuming (and is 5amp only) is bad?

Thanks for the links guys, your champions!!

I was just about to click purchase and thought I better ask the question on the forum before I do...so glad I did

Marty.

 

[Hippy]

While reading the listing I must have missed the part about heating "and" cooling separately and I'm assuming (and is 5amp only) is bad?

Thanks for the links guys, your champions!!

I was just about to click purchase and thought I better ask the question on the forum before I do...so glad I did

Marty.

Just bear in mind that these ones will need to be wired up before you can use them

 

[Boogaone]

Just bear in mind that these ones will need to be wired up before you can use them

Oh, true!! I'll cross that bridge when I get it in my hand and re-read the instructions. It may be more clear to me once I have the unit in front of me. Failing that I have a good mate who is a servicing contractor that may have a contact that could help me out.

Thanks for the heads up/reminder that this unit isn't plug n play.

Cheers,
Marty.

 

[carniebrew]

A buddy of mine just received his last week, and found this video on Youtube showing how to wire it up. I haven't watched it, and believe the guy solders rather than uses terminal blocks, but it'll give you an idea how it all goes together regardless:

Personally I used this guide when I wired mine up: http://urowiki.filecore.net/index.php/Thermostat

 

[Hippy]

The diagram on post 111 of this link is widely recognised as a sound way to wire it up and easy to follow.

 

[Diesel80]

The diagram on post 111 of this link is widely recognised as a sound way to wire it up and easy to follow.

I use the same diagram. Looks like NJD was p1ssed when sketching it, but it works well none the less.

Cheers,
D80

Edit: suggest you don't get p1ssed before wiring up yours.

 

[Wolfman]

STUPID me bought the 12v ones. Is there any difference in how you wire the 12v ones up?

 

[carniebrew]

STUPID me bought the 12v ones. Is there any difference in how you wire the 12v ones up?

You can still use it, you'll just need a 12v power pack to power it up, and run 240v wiring separately to power your heating/cooling. Check this post.

 

[Nick JD]

I use the same diagram. Looks like NJD was p1ssed when sketching it, but it works well none the less.

Cheers,
D80

Edit: suggest you don't get p1ssed before wiring up yours.

I didn't draw that wiring diagram. I would have done it pissed if I did, but.

Just don't print it out in greyscale when your printer is out of coloured ink, go round to Damien's place and connect the grey wire to the greyer wire not the dark grey wire. :huh:

 

[Wolfman]

You can still use it, you'll just need a 12v power pack to power it up, and run 240v wiring separately to power your heating/cooling. Check this post.

Cheers mate.

 

[semco]

Good day!

Is it possible in this temperature controller settings to make sure that in the 'idle' mode, two relay contacts of these relays are closed? When the temperature is lower than a predetermined lower temperature opens the contact 'Heat,' contact 'Cooling' remained closed. If you exceed the upper temperature of openers another contact - 'Cooling' and number 'heating', respectively, remained closed?

 

[mr_wibble]

Good day!

Is it possible in this temperature controller settings to make sure that in the 'idle' mode, two relay contacts of these relays are closed? When the temperature is lower than a predetermined lower temperature opens the contact 'Heat,' contact 'Cooling' remained closed. If you exceed the upper temperature of openers another contact - 'Cooling' and number 'heating', respectively, remained closed?

Hi, I do not know the answer to your question.

But I suspect this could influenced by the "Difference Set Value" under F2 which defaults to 0.5°C
Perhaps you can set this to 2°C (or more) and test to see if both the relays stay closed when neither heating nor cooling is necessary?

When my keg refridgerator is at the set temperature, the LED dot next to "Cool" on the front panel is not illuminated.
So I expect this means both relays are open, but I do not know for sure.

My fermentation fridge is currently in heating mode, so I cannot check it right now.

cheers,
-kt

 

[pat86]

I've just wired mine up yesterday to use with a bar fridge as a fermentation fridge, can post up pictures of the set-up though I based it on the diagrams and pictures from AHB.


I am yet to get it checked by a qualified electrician, don't know many so would definitely be open to buying someone a few beers or paying them to inspect my wiring if there are any qualified electricians hanging around! I'm based in Sydney - just PM me.


I did not connect anything for heating, and just came across Nick JD's photo, which basically looks almost identical to my set up, except I used a larger box and did it width ways (probably should have gone length ways):

My Set Up:

1 x STC 1000 (~$19 off ebay)
1 x 3m Arlex extension cord ($3 from Bunnings) (Cut roughly in half and then cut 2 x 12 CM sections for additional wires)
2 x Cable Glands (Jaycar)
1 x 15A 12 way terminal strip ($1.85 - They didn't have 3-way, so I sawed off plastic to just use 3 - Jaycar)
1 x Jiffy Box ($7 Jaycar)
1 x Wire strippers/ cutters ($9 Jaycar)
2 x Cable Ties (Bunnings)
Drill - Already had - as a heads-up though to anyone, my largest drill bit was still not large enough for the cable glands, and it is a monster 13mm. I had to widen them manually with my pocket saw
Pocket Saw (couldn't find small hack saw - didn't want to use a crappy jig saw)
Block of scrap wood & clamps - to provide stability and clean exits when drilling the jiffy box

Total Cost:
~ $40 with some left over parts and tools ( Wire strippers, cable ties) Quite a few hours of time reading literally hundreds of pages on AHB!

 

[pat86]

OK, so tallied the above and cost might have been $3-$5 for cable glands so I think the total cost is actually more like $45-$50 all up, more or less depending on how much stuff you already have. I could have borrowed the wire strippers and used a not as solid plastic box although I am already a bit sketchy on the safety of this!

A few photos of my STC 1000 box attached:







Pretty ugly but you gotta do what you gotta do...








Finished product: