Ss Brewtech "Chronical" 7 Gallon Conical Fermenter

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Where did you source your parts from, I was looking on the SS Brewtech site and it didn't seem like they deliver anywhere else but America? If/when I get one I was looking at getting leg extensions and the bottom sight glass and a few other bits
 
Lethaldog said:
I'm looking into buying one of the beauties at the moment, I've been brewing in plastic for years and thought it was about time to treat myself to some shiny kit, just a couple of Q's as I'm looking at the 17G/64L I'll be spending $1000+ so 1st question is it worth it/ are they that good? Also if you were to remove the yeast cake before cold crashing would there be any reason you couldn't transfer to the keg etc from the bottom tap as to avoid loss or would you have to make a longer racking tube?
Last one, how many of you that have them use co2 to transfer from it and were the parts for that easy to aquire?
Cheers
Leigh
Because yeast, when flocced, is quite a thick sludge, I find it is quite hard to dump all the yeast. No matter how many times I dump the yeast on a batch, there is still a thin layer that sticks to the cone, built up on anything protruding, stuck in the dump valve etc. so I don't think you would have great success transferring from the dump valve. If you are filtering, it may be worth trying once though.
 
Any Chronical owners using the MICRO sight glass (threaded type)? I’m having trouble with one of mine installing it at the bottom of the cone, then the 1.5” 90 degree elbow piece and then a 1.5” butterfly valve. It appears to take the weight OK but the issue is operating the valve I need to be super careful as the thread on the micro sight glass spins and it could spin and leak which would make an awful mess.

Lucky I mainly only need to use this after I’ve kegged and Im harvesting the yeast, but lately I have been dumping a little bit of trub in the first day or two of fermenting.

If I tighten the micro sight glass more to avoid it spinning when installed it pushes the o-ring out... seems a bit of a silly design if it can’t be used where I’m trying. A flat silicone washer might be better in this situation? Anyone had any luck playing around with it?

Attached some photos of the first one is how I’d like to put the sight glass and second my latest batch where I just couldn’t get it tight enough so placed it here to minimise the spinning when operating the butterfly valve. Third photo is the very first way I did it, but capping the sight glass makes dumping anything difficult, you really need a second valve after it to dump as it gets messy closing the valve, removing the sight glass, putting it back on and also introduces some O2.

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Not sure why it would have an “O” ring in it DJ? I have bought a few sanitary fittings over the years and they were all supplied with flat washers. Maybe email to the supplier as to why? The first pic would be the preferred position for the sight glass.
Edit. I own a conical, not a chronical.
 
Hey razz, it’s the design of the ss brewtech micro type sight glass that uses o-rings (see photos). I’ll check if some flat washers will work but it still seems like a lot of force on the glass to get a seal that can withstand the turning force when opening the butterfly valve too.

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Hey razz, it’s the design of the ss brewtech micro type sight glass that uses o-rings (see photos). I’ll check if some flat washers will work but it still seems like a lot of force on the glass to get a seal that can withstand the turning force when opening the butterfly valve too.

That looks different to the design on the ssbrewtech website. The one on the website has molded blue seals not orings. Maybe you have an older version of it? I'd be shooting someone an email.
 
Thanks huez I didn’t even think so look back at the ss brewtech site. They’ve updated the design by looks of it. Supplier of mine said he’s in touch with them about replacing the seals for the old design kits so will get replacements in due course [emoji106]
 
If its a o ring can you take to a seal supplier and get one the same size probably a good idea to get extra when purchasing as would think will always need replacing.
 
What method are you guys using to transfer from your kettle into these fermenters? I use an immersion chiller in a Guten and I use the pump to whirlpool whilst chilling. So Im thinking of making sure my whirlpool hose is long enough to reach the fermenter so once Ive reached temperature I can connect the hose to the racking arm valve and use the valve to throttle the flow slowly into the fermenter.
 
So Im thinking of making sure my whirlpool hose is long enough to reach the fermenter so once Ive reached temperature I can connect the hose to the racking arm valve and use the valve to throttle the flow slowly into the fermenter.

Yeast likes to be pitched into well oxygenated wort.

One way to help achieve this is by splashing your wort in vigorously. Attach a 1/2” TC barb to the lid and pump it up via that. If using the FTSS flat lid, the airlock hole is perfectly sized to hold the end of a 1/2” silicon tube securely. Your wort will burble about and foam up, mixing in lots of air.

Pays to try to refrain from opening the lid too much to check the level. Best to know the post boil volume beforehand.
 
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Yeast likes to be pitched into well oxygenated wort.

One way to help achieve this is by splashing your wort in vigorously. Attach a 1/2” TC barb to the lid and pump it up via that. If using the FTSS flat lid, the airlock hole is perfectly sized to hold the end of a 1/2” silicon tube securely. Your wort will burble about and foam up, mixing in lots of air.

Pays to try to refrain from opening the lid too much to check the level. Best to know the post boil volume beforehand.
I use an oxygen bottle and airstone but I suppose every little bit helps. I dont have the FTSS lid but I can still just clamp the 1/2 inch hose to the top with the rubber airlock bung removed.

cheers for that
 
Howdy brewers. Has anyone setup a dry hop chamber for their Chronical with O2 purge? I was thinking of getting a 1.5"butterfly valve and connecting it to the lid. Then on top of that fit a 1.5"sight glass and finally the 1.5" Pressurised transfer fitting as shown in my post above (No 113)

So when I first pitch yeast I would connect a hose to the barb on the Pressurised transfer fitting and use as my blow off tube and the butterfly valve would be open. When Im ready to dry hop I close the valve, remove the PT fitting and fill the sight glass chamber with hops. Fit the PT fitting again and connect the hose to gas then purge a few times to get rid of any O2 and open the valve to drop the hops in.

Anyone done something similar to this?

EDIT:- Sight glass probably isnt needed I suppose as you dont need to see your hops and tube is $17.97 on ebay vs $54.89 for sight glass.
 
Howdy brewers. Has anyone setup a dry hop chamber for their Chronical with O2 purge? I was thinking of getting a 1.5"butterfly valve and connecting it to the lid. Then on top of that fit a 1.5"sight glass and finally the 1.5" Pressurised transfer fitting as shown in my post above (No 113)

So when I first pitch yeast I would connect a hose to the barb on the Pressurised transfer fitting and use as my blow off tube and the butterfly valve would be open. When Im ready to dry hop I close the valve, remove the PT fitting and fill the sight glass chamber with hops. Fit the PT fitting again and connect the hose to gas then purge a few times to get rid of any O2 and open the valve to drop the hops in.

Anyone done something similar to this?

EDIT:- Sight glass probably isnt needed I suppose as you dont need to see your hops and tube is $17.97 on ebay vs $54.89 for sight glass.
Yep, I've posted my build at the other place - do a Google search for "Dry hop airlock for pressurised FV" and you'll find it. The principal is sound, but my experience was that 1.5" butterfly valves have too small an aperture for hop pellets to fall through. 2" or above sounds like it'll work, certainly my 4" version did. Otherwise perhaps a full-bore valve like a ball valve if you're stuck with 1.5".
 
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