Show us your brewrig

[Doubleplugga]

Second brew underway. A bit of a cupboard clean out pale ale. Gava, I love how your rig is set up inside.

 

[gava]

Second brew underway. A bit of a cupboard clean out pale ale. Gava, I love how your rig is set up inside.

image.jpg

That looks swweet!! I love having my brewery in the house but some days I do miss brewing outside.

When your mashing how full is your MLT and does your MLT ramp up and have the same temp as your HLT?

Just doing some tests right now and the HLT has to be a few degree above required temp, saying that my MLT is only 1/3 full so alot of head space.

-gav

 

[Doubleplugga]

MLT has around 7.5 gallons in it at the moment but last brew it was half full, 10 gallons or so. All my recipes at the moment I do in pounds, gallons etc. it's not really that full at all mate plenty of room left for those big RIS and Barley wines!

It sits pretty much spot on 1 degree Celsius lower than the HLT. I have put this down to heat loss through the hoses as it is recirculating. So I simply set the HLT PID to 68 degrees Celsius for a 67 degree mash.

 

[gava]

Just had an idea, since the probes are quick disconnected I just changed the MLT to the HLT probe and let it heat the HLT (HERMS) that way.. connect the HLT to the MLT just so I can see what temp its up to.. seems to be working...

So I can see brew day.

1) Probe connected to HLT get up to temp.
2) dump water into MLT top up HLT to cover herms if required
3) swap probes over and start mashing.

may have to label the probe ends so I dont get mixed up though.. probably coloured tape..

-gav

 

[mb-squared]

Hey Gav, my MT runs about 1 degree behind my HLT. I keep my HLT filled to the brim during my mash, even though I don't need that much water for sparging. The reason? The more heat mass, the more stable my temps.

When I first started with this rig, I did what I think you are suggesting: that is, let the temp probe on my MT govern the heat on my HLT. I thought I was really clever to think of this. But then the first time I did a temp ramp, I realized why I shouldn't do this. Like I said, when holding steady temp, the MT runs about 1 degree behind my HLT. But when ramping, the MT can fall several degrees behind the HLT during the ramp. If you have your temp probe on your MT, then you'll run the temp of your HLT well beyond where you want to be. Once your temp probe says you've reached your desired temp, your controller will turn off the heat to the HLT but the temp in the MT will just keep climbing. I overshot my desired temp by several degrees doing this.

So, the upshot is, whenever I have a temp ramp programmed in to my brew day, I make sure to keep the temp probe on my HLT.

BTW, doubleplugga, that is one very sweet setup. gawd, between you and gava, I'm feeling very inadequate

Oh well, I keep telling myself that I've been able to achieve what all you kal-clone guys have for a lot less. But I do wish I had all that shiny blingyness that you guys have

 

[gava]

Hey Gav, my MT runs about 1 degree behind my HLT. I keep my HLT filled to the brim during my mash, even though I don't need that much water for sparging. The reason? The more heat mass, the more stable my temps.

When I first started with this rig, I did what I think you are suggesting: that is, let the temp probe on my MT govern the heat on my HLT. I thought I was really clever to think of this. But then the first time I did a temp ramp, I realized why I shouldn't do this. Like I said, when holding steady temp, the MT runs about 1 degree behind my HLT. But when ramping, the MT can fall several degrees behind the HLT during the ramp. If you have your temp probe on your MT, then you'll run the temp of your HLT well beyond where you want to be. Once your temp probe says you've reached your desired temp, your controller will turn off the heat to the HLT but the temp in the MT will just keep climbing. I overshot my desired temp by several degrees doing this.

So, the upshot is, whenever I have a temp ramp programmed in to my brew day, I make sure to keep the temp probe on my HLT.

BTW, doubleplugga, that is one very sweet setup. gawd, between you and gava, I'm feeling very inadequate

Oh well, I keep telling myself that I've been able to achieve what all you kal-clone guys have for a lot less. But I do wish I had all that shiny blingyness that you guys have

When you changed your probes over, did you retrain/configure you PID controller for that setup?

Also where are your guys probe placements? is it on the ball valve outs? like the electric brewery? Mine are in the front of the vessel. I was wondering if this would pose any inconsistency with temp. I'd say with the HLT it wouldn't since its got an active whirlpool but in the MLT with the slow mashing it could throw it off a little?

As I say, its not the flash brewery that produces good beer, but damn it looks sweet

yes the Kal-Clone is a little pricey, helps that I sell half the stuff so didn't cost me as much..

-Gav

 

[mb-squared]

When you changed your probes over, did you retrain/configure you PID controller for that setup?

On my rig, I have a two thermowells, one on the ballvalve out of the HLT and one on the MT. I only have one probe and so "switching probes" simply means moving it from one thermowell to the other. As far as my controller (BCS-460) is concerned, it is just reading the HLT temp. Because of the temp differential mentioned above, I (like doubleplugga) set my HLT temp to be 1 degree higher than the intended temp of my MT.

Also where are your guys probe placements? is it on the ball valve outs? like the electric brewery? Mine are in the front of the vessel. I was wondering if this would pose any inconsistency with temp. I'd say with the HLT it wouldn't since its got an active whirlpool but in the MLT with the slow mashing it could throw it off a little?

I have mine on the ball valve out.

Curious about your "slow mashing" comment about the MT. My recirc rate is the same for both the HLT and the MT -- good healthy flow and, in the MT, there's a very noticeable whirlpool. In fact, the only way to keep the temp of the MT in the vicinity of the HLT's temp (especially when ramping up) is to run your wort pump wide open. Don't you do the same?

 

[TheWiggman]

My system's finally in a publishable state. Photographed during the fly sparge. HERMS with a PID on each liquor tun. For additional pics, hilarity and drama, check out my build post.
Love the system as is but, am now struggling to think of things to upgrade.

 

[mb-squared]

a stand to get that BK off the floor?

 

[TheWiggman]

a stand to get that BK off the floor?

I dunno, seems to be standing up ok by itself

 

[Northside Novice]

Get a room

 

[Yob]

You could always insulate those lines

 

[gava]

On my rig, I have a two thermowells, one on the ballvalve out of the HLT and one on the MT. I only have one probe and so "switching probes" simply means moving it from one thermowell to the other. As far as my controller (BCS-460) is concerned, it is just reading the HLT temp. Because of the temp differential mentioned above, I (like doubleplugga) set my HLT temp to be 1 degree higher than the intended temp of my MT.

Also where are your guys probe placements? is it on the ball valve outs? like the electric brewery? Mine are in the front of the vessel. I was wondering if this would pose any inconsistency with temp. I'd say with the HLT it wouldn't since its got an active whirlpool but in the MLT with the slow mashing it could throw it off a little?

I have mine on the ball valve out.

Curious about your "slow mashing" comment about the MT. My recirc rate is the same for both the HLT and the MT -- good healthy flow and, in the MT, there's a very noticeable whirlpool. In fact, the only way to keep the temp of the MT in the vicinity of the HLT's temp (especially when ramping up) is to run your wort pump wide open. Don't you do the same?

My 'slow mashing' comes from my old system which had larger ID for the HERMS and the ball valve, I had to restrict the flow to get a better heat exchange.. the term slow mash came from that not the best description i know .. My new system behaves different and I'm doing test with it being restricted and full open. When the ball valve is restricted I can feel I do get a better heat exchange but the ramp rate isn't great. I think I'll adjust how I use the system like yours with the MLT fully open.

I have built my control panel so I can use a standalone Heat Exchange later on which will hopefully help with RAMP times so at the moment I'm doing some more wet tests.
I have found a benefit of my youngest getting up at 5am, We go in the games room where my brewroom is off so I can do early morning testing and brewing. although this morning I must admit I swore a little when I heard him.

Whats your brew day schedule?
I like to underlet so I was thinking of this..

1) Fill HLT full (75lt~)
2) Get grain temp adjust HLT to allow for grain temperature absorption.. roughly 75c
3) Dump cracked grain into MLT
4) Transfer water from HLT to MLT (underlet) stop when water is about 5cm over grain bed (depending on recipe) MLT should now be mashing temp
5) top of HLT to cover HERMS Coil (maybe fill back to the top)
6) Get HLT to mashing temp
7) Start Mash recirculation
8) step mash, mash out etc....

Might create a new topic maybe for this?


cheers
Gavin.

 

[mb-squared]

hi Gavin, I'm up with my kids early too

as for brew day schedule, I do what Kal does: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/brew-day-step-by-step?page=3

The only difference is that my HLT is not as big as his, so I start with my HLT full and my MT filled to desired level (for my water-grain ratio), and then I recirculate until temps in both pots are at mash in temps. From then on out, my process is identical to his. I have found that I hit my numbers every time and I get the same high efficiencies that he does. So I aint fixin what aint broke

 

[gava]

hi Gavin, I'm up with my kids early too

as for brew day schedule, I do what Kal does: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/brew-day-step-by-step?page=3

The only difference is that my HLT is not as big as his, so I start with my HLT full and my MT filled to desired level (for my water-grain ratio), and then I recirculate until temps in both pots are at mash in temps. From then on out, my process is identical to his. I have found that I hit my numbers every time and I get the same high efficiencies that he does. So I aint fixin what aint broke

When you add your grain you dont notice any loss of temp at all? or does it just ramp back up quick enough not to care?

-gav

 

[mb-squared]

I typically dough in at protein rest temps so I haven't gotten too concerned about a degree or two at the beginning of the mash. I dough in at 120F (sorry if you use C, I use F), slowly open the valve on my wort pump to wide open (over ~10mins) to make sure I don't compact the grain bed (which I NEVER stir), then hit 'go' on my BCS-460. It handles everything until sparge time, beginning with ramp to sachrification, sachrification rest, ramp to mash out, then it sounds an alarm and/or sends me an email, telling me to switch my hoses around for the fly sparge.

I work from home most days and it isn't uncommon for me to brew on work days, thanks to the BCS running the brew day for me

 

[gava]

I typically dough in at protein rest temps so I haven't gotten too concerned about a degree or two at the beginning of the mash. I dough in at 120F (sorry if you use C, I use F), slowly open the valve on my wort pump to wide open (over ~10mins) to make sure I don't compact the grain bed (which I NEVER stir), then hit 'go' on my BCS-460. It handles everything until sparge time, beginning with ramp to sachrification, sachrification rest, ramp to mash out, then it sounds an alarm and/or sends me an email, telling me to switch my hoses around for the fly sparge.

I work from home most days and it isn't uncommon for me to brew on work days, thanks to the BCS running the brew day for me

Sounds straight forward, I had a brewtroller on my last rig it was nice the only thing I can't do with my PIDS that I miss is the auto volume, i.e. press start and my water in turns on and fills my HLT to my required level, then on sparge will start and stop when the required amount of water has left the HLT. looked at the BCS units was a little dear for me back then.

-gav

 

[spog]

[
Side view,little brown pump.
Electric kettle elements,I retained the 2 led lights from the kettle so I can see that they are powered.
Off cuts from silicone tubes to shroud the kettle connections from spills.







attachment=70008:image.jpg]
Control box,2 x 240 volt switches for element power,PID,fuse.
1st 12v switch for PID .
2nd 12 v switch for pump.
Underneath Lhs grill for air intake,rhs for computer fan outlet.
The computer fan comes on as soon as the system is powered up so it runs constantly.







Storage inside brew cupboard,various sized pots,scales,cleaning tub which the immersion chiller sits in.
Extra container for holding milled grain,sieves etc.
The cupboard is made from salvaged 300 x90 mm beams ( base).
290 x 32 Oregon sides and top.
Oregon drawer and door frames with cedar panels.
The control box is cedar trimmed with brass angles,with sassafras and Huon pine lid.

 

[spog]

My mill made from 2 bedside cupboards.

Inside,the collect bin with the hopper stored away.


Hopper fits into a hole in the top,the hopper holds roughly a kilo of grain.








The back which at the bottom sits in a slotted base board and is held in place by 2 butterfly toggles to allow access to the motor and rear mill adjustment knobs.

 

[BlueMutt]

Slowly making progress on the rig, new stand welded up, yet to fit castors and complete painting. Some hard piping for gas and liquid with some 3 way valves will go on this week end.
Next will be a control panel and second pump, not 100% on how to go about setting up PIDs etc, although I have a sparkey to help once I gather the info and parts. Any good guide links appreciated.