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sweet as then, I wasnt planning on fly sparging
 
There are some issues with heat and PVC leeching bad stuff.

But then again we all die of something
 
So how much wort do brewers find they lose with their respective setups? (loss to tun deadspace)
 
On a plain water test, i lost just over one litre in a rectangular rubbermaid chilly bin esky, however i seem to loose more with an actual mash, as i start drawing air before all the wort has worked it's way down to the pickup, from my pre-boil vol i'm loosing about 2 litres
 
Looking at some of the designs people are using with FB's, it seems to me that in some cases the drain outlet is located quite some height above the actual floor of the tun. One picture seems to show a height of around 4 or 5 inches! Does this mean that some of you are losing quite a bit to deadspace, or does the siphoning action pretty much drain everything?

In other words, if you could redesign your mashtuns from scratch, would you locate the drain outlet as low as possible above the false bottom, or are there other good reasons for having it higher up the wall?

:huh:
 
Here is my new 200l tun.
P4231137.JPG
As it was going to cost $360+ for a 1m wide piece of perforated stainless, i decided to go for the 1" braid instead @ a cost of $48.

More pics can be found here

FYI, I sourced the braid from Earls - the guys who make performance radiator & brake lines for cars. the fittings are all 20mm as i couldn't find 25mm allthread. :(
 
Here is a couple of pics of my current set-up.

l_e07cafeae529a7d0e4e7b57c17640c75.jpg

Same as many others here with the drain to the bottom centre of the tun (no dead space).
With the right crush and PH I get great efficiency 80% +

l_814e7cce0fe323f75efc249ff62fc8ac.jpg

1st pic is cleaning out the hot spent grain.
2nd pic is after first running's but before batch sparge of a stout.

I have it hooked up to a pump and HERMS and the return manifold is made from copper pipe..

- Luke
 
Here is a couple of pics of my current set-up.

View attachment 12384
2nd pic is after first running's but before batch sparge of a stout.

I have it hooked up to a pump and HERMS and the return manifold is made from copper pipe..

- Luke

Looks like a heart bypass gone horribly wrong Lukes! Nice bling though mate... ;)

Cheers
 
Looking at some of the designs people are using with FB's, it seems to me that in some cases the drain outlet is located quite some height above the actual floor of the tun. One picture seems to show a height of around 4 or 5 inches! Does this mean that some of you are losing quite a bit to deadspace, or does the siphoning action pretty much drain everything?

In other words, if you could redesign your mashtuns from scratch, would you locate the drain outlet as low as possible above the false bottom, or are there other good reasons for having it higher up the wall?

:huh:

..the question I was wanting to ask (but felt stupid).
Many of the uptake pipes seem miles above the bottom of the tun, thus my question about deadpsace. Is the a vaccum action happening because how else does an uptake pipe that's 2 inches below the outlet ever work?
 
..the question I was wanting to ask (but felt stupid).
Many of the uptake pipes seem miles above the bottom of the tun, thus my question about deadpsace. Is the a vaccum action happening because how else does an uptake pipe that's 2 inches below the outlet ever work?


If you can manage a good airtight path from below the FB to the tap then the siphon action will drain the wort until the uptake pipe gets exposed. I posted my pics in the thread earlier here:

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...st&p=167064

The tun will drain right to the bottom of the threaded centrepiece of the FB. There isn't much left underneath - a couple of hundred ml maybe. It doesn't really matter what height the tap is.
 
copper.jpg
Finally, i can sparge again! :D
Even the Roggenbier sparged OK without rice gulls :)
 
Tangent,

Looks good - Have you tried with the slots facing downwards? - you should get a little more liqour & less likely to block.

cheers Ross

agree with ross always worked better facing down when i had a copper manifold
 
i just rigged one up for a test run. the slots are on both sides.
 
Wash gonna start a new thread for this but seeings as it fits here i shall ask here first...

Q. Has anyone brought and been using the rectanguler "esky" style false bottoms that Mashmaster.com.au sell? Are they good?

I've been getting shithouse eff (approx 70%) with my braid and platic bucket setup so i have an esky i can convert i just dont wanna go with the braid again?

Also i like the idea of a rectangular false bottom meaning i can still use the esky....for an esky.

Cheers B)
 
just looked on their site and their not there anymore :(
 

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