RecipeDB - DrSmurto's Landlord

[michaelcocks]

No worries, mate. Just don't forget to change the AA to whatever your current batch of hops are, then adjust the 60min addition to give the right IBU.

I went with no kettle losses, cos most many partial brewers are 'tip the lot in' types....if you whirlpool and syphon, leaving the trub behind, you'll need to make adjustments for loss to trub in your volumes. (some AG brewers are dirty 'tip the lot in' types too. h34r: ).

Hi Butters

Could I use a pre-bittered LME (like a Coopers Pale Ale) instead of bittering with hops + 60 min boil?

Also assume some English yeast (SO4 OK??)

Thanks

Mike

 

[buttersd70]

Hi Butters

Could I use a pre-bittered LME (like a Coopers Pale Ale) instead of bittering with hops + 60 min boil?

Also assume some English yeast (SO4 OK??)

Thanks

Mike

Mike,
you could, I suppose, use hopped extract, but you would need to pick one to give the correct IBU for the volume; and thats pretty hit and miss. Also, it would have flavour (iso)hop which would probably clash flavour wise, so you'd need to boil the tin to drive off this flavour, and that would throw your boil gravities out. I'd recommend pretty strongly against it. You're gong to need to do a minimum 60minute boil, anyway, for the mash portion, so may as well use the good stuff for the bittering addition.

Using yeast, wy1469 (west yorkshire) would be the best; although you won't be able to buy this, as it was a seasonal release. There is a proculture yeast available that is said to be the equivilent of it, gryphon brewing in WA sells them. Alternate liquid yeast would be wyeast ringwood, which is readily available from sponsors/good lhbs.

You could use dry yeast; I wouldn't use so4 myself (hate the stuff, 2c), or you could use Danstar Nottingham. Notto would probably do a good job, but it won't (imo) be as good as using a liquid yeast, which will have much more character and a better ester profile than dry.

 

[michaelcocks]

Mike,
you could, I suppose, use hopped extract, but you would need to pick one to give the correct IBU for the volume; and thats pretty hit and miss. Also, it would have flavour (iso)hop which would probably clash flavour wise, so you'd need to boil the tin to drive off this flavour, and that would throw your boil gravities out. I'd recommend pretty strongly against it. You're gong to need to do a minimum 60minute boil, anyway, for the mash portion, so may as well use the good stuff for the bittering addition.

Using yeast, wy1469 (west yorkshire) would be the best; although you won't be able to buy this, as it was a seasonal release. There is a proculture yeast available that is said to be the equivilent of it, gryphon brewing in WA sells them. Alternate liquid yeast would be wyeast ringwood, which is readily available from sponsors/good lhbs.

You could use dry yeast; I wouldn't use so4 myself (hate the stuff, 2c), or you could use Danstar Nottingham. Notto would probably do a good job, but it won't (imo) be as good as using a liquid yeast, which will have much more character and a better ester profile than dry.

OK no worries re the unhopped LME...point taken.
Would Muntold Gold (dried yeast be a better choice) I know tis isn't ideal but better than S04 (which I actually quite like, as a good all rounder..)
Any idea where I could get Danstar Nottingham in Sydney (I tried daves, pats and collin's webpages...LHBS guys...)
Cheers

Michael

 

[buttersd70]

Can't comment on muntons gold, don't think I've ever used it. No idea about shopping in sydney. As I said, the liquids are far superior...but if you've used so4 before, and you like it, and you want to use dry; then go with that. (so4 seems to me to be very much one of those love it or hate it yeasts).

 

[buttersd70]

Just back onto the topic of water: I was going to post, but forgot. I got cider-tracked.....

slight geography lesson for those that are unfamiliar with the region:



Now, Taylors is based in Keighley. They have their own spring, and use the water from that. Now, I've had trouble finding details on the groundwater, as opposed to the mains water, but in that part of Yorkshire, it's mainly sandstone and millstone. In the centre there are coal seams, and in the East, it's mainly limestone...
Yorkshire water states that the water in the east (what used to be East Riding), is the hardest; and that the softest water comes from the moor districts (which is West Riding, and the western part of the North Riding).
In any event, given the excellent quality of the water from ground and reservoir (given the geology), I would assume that the mains water available (particularly in the west riding) has sfa done to it, and wouldn't be massively different to what is available from the water table anyway...and that the main changes would probably be for quality control and cosistency.....this is, though, an assumption. I'm no chemist or geologist by any stretch of the imagination....
However, one thing that makes me think this may well be the case: Bribie emailed a brewer just outside Hebdon Bridge, and this is what he got:

We use water from the mains (although we have a well on site). I have only average samples from lastt year

Dissolved Sulphate 34.8 mg/l SO4
Magnesium 2 mg/l Mg
Sodium 8.6 mg/l Na
Potassium 0.8 mg/l K
Calcium 19 mg/l Ca
Choride 11 mg/l Cl
Hardness total 24.4 mg/l Ca
Alkalinity tot. pH4.5 10.98 mg/l HCO

Interesting that, even though they have a well on site, they use mains water.

Obviously, having their own source of spring water, the TTL will be brewed with a different breakdown; but I wouldn't have thought it would be massively different....and given that the brewery has been in operation since the mid 19th century, I doubt that they would have made any adjustments to the water (at least, not back then, anyway. Brewers in those days made beer to suit the water, as opposed to changing the water to suit the beer).

I'm not saying that this is the kind of water that is needed to brew good Bitters, or even to clone TTL....just passing on some info I have, and some observations (from a laymans perspective), that I've made....

Minor anecdote: My grandparents worked at Websters brewery in Halifax, back in it's heyday. My gran was a cleaner there, and she used to bitch at how she had to use twice as much soap powder at home than she had to use at the brewery, to get the same lather. At this point, they'd moved across town (they used to live near the brewery), to a part of town that (even today, looking at the Yorkshire Water reports for the area) comes from distribution station that has the hardest water in a 20 mile radius (which is still only 'moderate').

 

[BjornJ]

Can't comment on muntons gold, don't think I've ever used it. No idea about shopping in sydney. As I said, the liquids are far superior...but if you've used so4 before, and you like it, and you want to use dry; then go with that. (so4 seems to me to be very much one of those love it or hate it yeasts).

I have a beer in the fermenter now, by first ever try with liquid yeast, an English Ale Yeast WLP002.
I wanted to try this to have a go at liquid yeast and it came advertised as ultra flocculent, sounds good.

But is there really a lot of difference between dry and liquid yeasts, say between a US-05 and WLP001?
I have read that these are both "neutral, all around" yeasts and there is a price difference of about $10..


thanks
Bjorn

 

[JonnyAnchovy]

I have read that these are both "neutral, all around" yeasts and there is a price difference of about $10..

This is precisely why I tend to use dried yeasts for hoppy beers where yeast esters are less important to the final flavor profile. I use liquid yeasts for pretty much everything else.

 

[gap]

Just adding to that post of Butters showing the map supplied by Yorkshire Water.
Their website also states that water may be pumped from one part of Yorkshire to another depending on supply and demand.
So the water specs may vary for a location depending on where it is receiving its water at that particular time.
West Riding water may be pumped to East Riding etc.

Regards

Graeme

 

[michaelcocks]

Should be easy then. (edit: for a partial. A bit hard for full extract, as 99% of the malt flavour is base grain.)....here you go.


Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Batch Size: 20.00 L
Boil Size: 13.46 L
Estimated OG: 1.046 SG
Estimated Color: 19.8 EBC
Estimated IBU: 33.1 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 70.0 %
Boil Time: 90 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amount Item Type % or IBU
1.50 kg LME, post bol (6.9 EBC) Extract 42.3 %
1.50 kg Pale Malt, Golden Promise (Thomas FaGrain 42.3 %
0.50 kg Munich I (Weyermann) (14.0 EBC) Grain 14.1 %
0.05 kg Chocolate Malt (Thomas Fawcett) (100Grain 1.4 %
40.00 gm Fuggles [3.90%] (60 min) Hops 20.8 IBU
30.00 gm Goldings, East Kent [5.10%] (20 minHops 12.3 IBU
28.00 gm Styrian Goldings [4.60%] (0 min) Hops -


Mash Schedule: My Mash
Total Grain Weight: 2.05 kg
----------------------------
Name Description Step Temp Step Time
Sach rest Add 5.00 L of water at 73.7 C 65.0 C 40 min
Mash out Add 5.00 L of water at 94.1 C 78.0 C 40 min


Notes:
------
AG BG 1034, volumes: 25.88 boil /20L batch, 32.9 IBU, 1045 OG
PM BG 1034, volumes: 13.46 boil /20L batch, 33.1 IBU 1046 OG

Should require 10L topup to achieve 20L. Have not accounted for any kettle losses, other than

evaporation and cooling.

IBU dependent on actual hop alpha. If need to adjust for hop alpha, leave the weights for the later

additions alone; only adjust the 60min weight until IBU matches.

Have subbed TF Golden promise for marris otter; if using MO, just use the same weight....personally, I

think the GP would give the better result. 2c.


heres the BSM (if you use beersmith, or for others that want it):
View attachment 29952

Did this one at the weekend ...

Mash temp came out a bit high (69C) I was already at 3:1 water to grain so reluctant to add much more cold water. Second step cam out a bit low (72C)

Into cube (no chill method)

Will let you know how it goes when in fermenter... Thanks Again

Mike

 

[Effect]

Styrians are added at flame-out :icon_drool2:

I am thinking of doing this beer again, but as I no chill I didn't want to add the styrians at flame-out as this would have probably no affect at all.

Would it be ok to dry hop it with the styrian instead?

Cheers
Phil

 

[drsmurto]

I am thinking of doing this beer again, but as I no chill I didn't want to add the styrians at flame-out as this would have probably no affect at all.

Would it be ok to dry hop it with the styrian instead?

Cheers
Phil

A plug if styrians in a keg is :icon_drool2:

Whilst i dont normally dry hop my landlord i have once and it was a nice variation, way too much aroma for TTL but still a damn fine bitter IMHO.

 

[Supra-Jim]

Poured my first pint of this fine recipe from the keg last night. Damn it was a good beer. Well done Smurto and thanks for sharing.

Cheers SJ

 

[Bribie G]

In my 'superlandlord' versions I no chill and add the Styrians for 10 or 15 mins and find the hop aroma still comes through. As the Dr said in a post somewhere you can hold a pint at arms length and still get the Styrians.

 

[Scruffy]

Whilst i dont normally dry hop my landlord ...way too much aroma for TTL but still a damn fine bitter IMHO.

Wow, I always remember the draught being really perfumed (too perfumed for some of my southern mates, even...).

Any road up, someone mentioned Yeast,

This came to mind...

WLP037 Yorkshire Ale Yeast

This yeast produces a beer that is malty, but well-balanced. Expect flavours that are toasty with malt-driven esters. Highly flocculent and good choice for English pale ales, English brown ales, and mild ales.

Attenuation: 68-72%
Flocculation: High
Optimum Fermentation Temp: 65-70F
Alcohol Tolerance: Med-High

I think it's Sam Smiths?

I see you've pitched! - I (re)use 1968 quite a lot, (it's the same as WLP002 - Fullers). It finishes quite Malty and Sweet, prolly too malty for a TTL (maybe not...)

Let us know how it goes!!

edited cause I realised the yeast is in the fermenter...!

 

[drsmurto]

As the Dr said in a post somewhere you can hold a pint at arms length and still get the Styrians.

Or, you can walk into the bar and smell the styrians from 5m away and realise that the o ring on the beer out post is rooted and see pints of your beautiful beer on the floor...... :lol:

Had a few of the locals sample my current version last night which has been bottled for the xmas case swap.

Used caraaroma instead of pale choc as suggested by Ross.
TF FM MO instead of Bairds and no munich.

Upped the styrians to ~2g/L at flameout :icon_drool2:

Happy with how it has turned out, colour is lighter which is probably closer to the real deal.

And just cos i wanted to show off this pic (again) here it is served in a standard pommy pint glass.

 

[raven19]

Looks delicious mate.

Look forward to sampling it in a few weeks at the swap!

 

[muckey]

Or, you can walk into the bar and smell the styrians from 5m away and realise that the o ring on the beer out post is rooted and see pints of your beautiful beer on the floor...... :lol:

Had a few of the locals sample my current version last night which has been bottled for the xmas case swap.

Used caraaroma instead of pale choc as suggested by Ross.
TF FM MO instead of Bairds and no munich.

Upped the styrians to ~2g/L at flameout :icon_drool2:

Happy with how it has turned out, colour is lighter which is probably closer to the real deal.

And just cos i wanted to show off this pic (again) here it is served in a standard pommy pint glass.

luvverly drop I must admit.

you need a butters vacuum cleaner to mop up your spills :lol:

 

[RdeVjun]

Used caraaroma instead of pale choc as suggested by Ross.
TF FM MO instead of Bairds and no munich.

Upped the styrians to ~2g/L at flameout :icon_drool2:

Very interesting, have done something similar myself of late, although still with GP. That was after I spent months of fartarsing around with 100% GP, occasional decocting and regular caramelising, dropped the munich yonks ago, recently added a touch of caraaroma and have been upping the late hops. Can't say I've found the holy grail, but man, it must be somewhere nearby!

Many thanks Dr S for stumping up a recipe to which I have responded rather ungratefully by just flogging it mercilessly to within an inch of its life! :icon_cheers:

 

[raven19]

Making a Smurto's LL tomorrow arvo as long as I can get outta work at a reasonable time!

Tempted to push the bitterness higher though!!!!

BeerSmith Recipe Printout - http://www.beersmith.com
Recipe: 15 Smurto's Landlord
Brewer: Brad
Asst Brewer:
Style: Special/Best/Premium Bitter
TYPE: All Grain
Taste: (0.0)

Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Batch Size: 25.00 L
Boil Size: 33.00 L
Estimated OG: 1.041 SG
Estimated Color: 15.8 SRM
Estimated IBU: 37.7 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 70.00 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amount Item Type % or IBU
4.37 kg Pale Malt (3.0 SRM) Grain 86.42 %
0.63 kg Munich (9.0 SRM) Grain 12.35 %
0.06 kg Choc Malt (1200.0 SRM) Grain 1.23 %
18.00 gm Chinese Marco Polo [12.00 %] (60 min) Hops 22.8 IBU
35.00 gm East Kent Goldings [4.80 %] (25 min) Hops 12.3 IBU
25.00 gm Styrian Goldings [4.80 %] (5 min) Hops 2.5 IBU
0.50 items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15.0 min) Misc
1 Pkgs 1187 (Wyeast) Yeast-Ale


Mash Schedule: *** Single Infusion, Medium Body
Total Grain Weight: 5.06 kg
----------------------------
*** Single Infusion, Medium Body
Step Time Name Description Step Temp
90 min Mash In Add 13.19 L of water at 71.2 C 65.0 C
10 min Mash Out Add 7.39 L of water at 97.1 C 75.6 C


Notes:
------
Mash 65

 

[RdeVjun]

Tempted to push the bitterness higher though!!!!

Estimated OG: 1.041 SG
Estimated IBU: 37.7 IBU

18.00 gm Chinese Marco Polo [12.00 %] (60 min) Hops 22.8 IBU
35.00 gm East Kent Goldings [4.80 %] (25 min) Hops 12.3 IBU
25.00 gm Styrian Goldings [4.80 %] (5 min) Hops 2.5 IBU

Brewhouse Efficiency: 70.00 %

The lure of these strong new MP hops, eh?! I wouldn't increase the bitterness mate, IMO your BU:GU could be getting wonky already at 0.9, I'd be aiming for around 0.6- 0.7 with more late styrian (like the good doctor says!), the proportions are about right though- 2:1 bittering to aroma is my ideal combo.

Long low mash is good, with that in mind are you sure your efficiency isn't slightly better? Just wonderin'...

:icon_cheers:

Edit: Doh: 2g/L stryian already. Sorry, not quite enough coffee consumed this AM...