Move To All Grain For Thirty Bucks

[Salt]

Ok, so Im pretty much all geared up for my first BIAB, which is based on this great thread...a 9Lt batch in my 19Lt pot using the exact methods described, but ingredients changed to suit my taste.

Here is what I came up with and after putting it in Brewmate, came out looking good. I have got all my gear sorted and grain is ordered.


Virgin BIAB


Recipe Specs
----------------
Batch Size (L): 9.0
Total Grain (kg): 2.250
Total Hops (g): 50.00
Original Gravity (OG): 1.055 (P): 13.6
Final Gravity (FG): 1.014 (P): 3.6
Alcohol by Volume (ABV): 5.40 %
Colour (SRM): 7.9 (EBC): 15.5
Bitterness (IBU): 51.3 (Average)
Brewhouse Efficiency (%): 70
Boil Time (Minutes): 60

Grain Bill
----------------
2.000 kg Golden Promise Malt (88.89%)
0.100 kg Caramalt (4.44%)
0.100 kg Crystal 30 (4.44%)
0.050 kg Carahell (2.22%)

Hop Bill
----------------
10.0 g Centennial Pellet (9.7% Alpha) @ 60 Minutes (Boil) (1.1 g/L)
15.0 g Amarillo Pellet (8.6% Alpha) @ 15 Minutes (Boil) (1.7 g/L)
15.0 g Amarillo Pellet (8.6% Alpha) @ 5 Minutes (Boil) (1.7 g/L)
10.0 g Amarillo Pellet (8.6% Alpha) @ 0 Minutes (Boil) (1.1 g/L) Dry Hop Day 5

Misc Bill
----------------

Single step Infusion at 67C for 60 Minutes.
Fermented at 18C with Safale US-05


Recipe Generated with BrewMate

 

[RdeVjun]

Nice one Salt, you're all set! :beerbang:
One remark I'd make is the FG may perhaps end up lower, say between 1.010 and 1.012 but that wouldn't be a significant difference or a drastic impact. Also, its fairly bitter that recipe, but if you're planning for that degree of bitterness then that's cool, the malts' residual sweetness should buffer that to some extent plus bring their own character.
Hope it goes smoothly, let us know if you hit any strife. :icon_cheers:

 

[loikar]

Agree with RdeVjun

I would consider playing with your hop additions to get your IBU's around the 20-30 mark.
And maybe drop the crystal or Caramalt and up your GP.

But if your after a bitter beer that's a bit richer, go for it.

 

[argon]

I actually think that's a cracking recipe :super: ... might look bitter just by the numbers. But when you look at the crystal additions (at 11%) having the bitterness where it is @ 51IBU against 1056OG will give you a pretty tasty little IPA or hoppy APA.

In my opinion don't change a thing... but do keep an eye on your pre-boil gravity and adjust if you go over or under, so you get the IBU you want. Numbers are difficult to predict on your first attempt.

Edit: also just check your Hop AA% eg the latest Amarillo is 9.3% from Craftbrewers, wheras i have some at home @ 6.8%. Worth a second look on the packet and confirm in your software.

 

[Salt]

I actually think that's a cracking recipe :super: ... might look bitter just by the numbers. But when you look at the crystal additions (at 11%) having the bitterness where it is @ 51IBU against 1056OG will give you a pretty tasty little IPA or hoppy APA.

In my opinion don't change a thing... but do keep an eye on your pre-boil gravity and adjust if you go over or under, so you get the IBU you want. Numbers are difficult to predict on your first attempt.

Edit: also just check your Hop AA% eg the latest Amarillo is 9.3% from Craftbrewers, wheras i have some at home @ 6.8%. Worth a second look on the packet and confirm in your software.

The Amarillo I have is 8.2%...and Centennial is 9.2%...so overall that makes IBUs around 48ish.

I am after a hoppy beer...imo the hoppier the better, as long as its balanced nicely. Maybe its a bit high, but I love bitter/hoppy AIPAs/APAs.

I was hoping the crystal would balance it out...I know that more than 10% is getting up there.

Will definitely keep an eye on the pre-boil gravity. Take plenty of notes etc as I go. This is a huge learning curve for me as its my intro to AG. But why not brew a style that I like!

Prob a couple of week's away from brewing...but will keep progress posted when I start.

Cheers to all

 

[Salt]

Hey guys,

I am about to embark on my journey into AG, using this thread and a recipe I posted in an earlier post on this page.

I am wondering if for a 9L batch if 1pkt of US-05 is too much and that half the packet will do?

What would happen if I over-pitched and put a full pkt (11g?)?

If I can use half a pack, it will mean I can do two batches with a slightly different grain/hop bill

Cheers!

 

[chunckious]

I pitched a half pack for my first two 9L stove tops.......no probs at all.

 

[Salt]

I pitched a half pack for my first two 9L stove tops.......no probs at all.

Excellent, thats the advice I was after...
Cheers mate, will do the same!

 

[Nick JD]

When I'm pitching half packs I roll the packet up tightly from the top and put a rubber band around it and then into a ziplock in the fridge. If you can pour the yeast into a clean, dry cup sitting on some 1g-accurate scales then please do ... nothing worse than pitching 8g into one batch (not so bad) and 3g into the next (bad).

The same thing can be done with full sized batches when you want to blend yeasts - S04 and US05 (half a pack each) gives the best of both strains (attenuation of 05 and flocc + esters of 04).

 

[Dazza88]

I got s189 and wyeast3787 slurry, I wonder what that mix would do?

 

[Nick JD]

I got s189 and wyeast3787 slurry, I wonder what that mix would do?

Dunno - I usually mix similar strains where one or both has faults, and both have the same temperature range.

 

[raven19]

If you repitch that mixed yeast slurry be aware one strain will likely take over the other in subsequent ferments, and you may not acheive the same resulting beer flavour/ester profile as your original dry mixed yeast pitch.

 

[flano]

If you repitch that mixed yeast slurry be aware one strain will likely take over the other in subsequent ferments, and you may not acheive the same resulting beer flavour/ester profile as your original dry mixed yeast pitch.

how about just re-using the surry from one packet of dry yeast?
Will the flavour stay the same even after numerous brews?

 

[raven19]

Profile will change slightly with the next generation of yeast regardless, however temperature controlled fermentation with a neutral strain (such as US-05) will yield results pretty darn close from generation to generation.

For the cost of the dry yeast I would be just pitching new dry yeast though. Easier and less likely to intorduce contamination into your precious wort/beer.

 

[Salt]

Just a quick question guys...

Will adding only 9Lts to a 30Lt fermenter be an issue? I.e too much empty space/oxygen etc?

I have a 10L water bottle that I am going to use as a fermenter for this, but have two other 30L FVs that I wouldnt mind filling by doing this method in the next few days.

Cheers!

 

[Tim F]

Nah thats fine, it would only be an issue if you left in in there conditioning for a longer period after fermentation finished. The CO2 from fermentation forms a layer over the wort/beer and helps prevent oxidisation.

 

[Salt]

Ok so just completed my first BIAB brew and am pretty happy about how things went...

Mash at 66deg for 1hr and after I removed my blankets had only lost 2deg so was pretty happy ending up at 64deg.
Had a SG of 1.054 which was bang on what Brewmate told me it would be with 70% efficiency, so again, pretty happy with that too.

Everything went relatively well...I will put that down to being really well prepared, after reading this thread over and over for the past few months. I printed out the PDF guide of this file. Had Brewmate handy. Everything weighed out ready to go. Had everything clean and sterile during Mash and boil/hop additions went well. Took about 45min to cool down in the laundry tub, but managed to pitch at 25deg.

Obviously my brew day was much longer than previous extract brews, but I was taking my time, making sure it was done correctly.

Water up to strike temp - 10min
Mash - 60min
Wort up to boil - 25min
Boil - 60min
Cooling - 45min

So maybe 3.5hrs was probably closer to 4hrs. Im sure next time will go quicker again. Might try no chill to break up the day.

Cheers to Nick and everyone else for their input and suggestions across this thread and any q's I have asked....Looking forward to my next BIAB already!

 

[Salt]

I actually think that's a cracking recipe :super: ... might look bitter just by the numbers. But when you look at the crystal additions (at 11%) having the bitterness where it is @ 51IBU against 1056OG will give you a pretty tasty little IPA or hoppy APA.

In my opinion don't change a thing... but do keep an eye on your pre-boil gravity and adjust if you go over or under, so you get the IBU you want. Numbers are difficult to predict on your first attempt.

Edit: also just check your Hop AA% eg the latest Amarillo is 9.3% from Craftbrewers, wheras i have some at home @ 6.8%. Worth a second look on the packet and confirm in your software.

Just about to bottle this, as my first BIAB...tasting pretty darn good out of the FV. Did end up changing Hop schedule slightly as I thought it might be a bit high. Changed it down to about 38IBUs.
9L batch;
5g each Centennial and Amarillo @ 60m
8g Amarillo @ 15m
8g Amarillo @ 5m
Dry Hop 8g each of Cascade and Amarillo after 1 week in primary.
It has a nice bitterness, great flavour and the dry hopping of both hops has given it great aroma. Cant wait to bottle and get it carbed up! Damn waiting!

Cheers for all your input and advice.

 

[paulmclaren11]

Hi all,


This thread is great, and I have now got the confidence and the gear to give AG a crack using this method after 50 or so kits and bits, all extract beers. Whilst these beers have mostly been highly drinkable, I always wonder how much you can improve home made beers -and this seems a winner from all the comments. Plus a smaller batch means I am not stuck drinking a full keg of beer I am not overally keen on.

Here is my proposed recipe - any comments/feedback appreciated:

First 'Crack' B-Saaz Pils

Original Gravity (OG): 1.050 (P): 12.4
Final Gravity (FG): 1.013 (P): 3.3
Alcohol (ABV): 4.91 %
Colour (SRM): 3.4 (EBC): 6.6
Bitterness (IBU): 40.6 (Average)

95.24% Pilsner
4.76% Carapils (Dextrine)

1.1 g/L B Saaz (8.6% Alpha) @ 60 Minutes (Boil)
1.1 g/L B Saaz (8.6% Alpha) @ 15 Minutes (Boil)
1.1 g/L B Saaz (8.6% Alpha) @ 2 Minutes (Boil)

0.1 g/L Whirlfloc Tablet @ 10 Minutes (Boil)

Single step Infusion at 67C for 60 Minutes. Boil for 60 Minutes

Fermented at 12C with Saflager S-23

Recipe Generated with BrewMate

My questions are before I launch into this:

- I plan to use a food processor to crack the grains - anyone done this with success before?

- As I am using a lager yeast (S-23), would I still use the whole packet for this 9L batch as I will pitch and ferment at about 12C.



Thanks, I can't wait to give this a go!

 

[Lord Raja Goomba I]

It's okay to use the full packet, though not necessary.

If you want a pilsner, might I suggest replacing your Carapils for Melanoidin - just to make it a bit more authentic.

Make sure you do at least a 60 minute boil and preferably a 90 minute boil - pilsner malt has a high number of DMS pre-cursors and you don't want butter-beer.

Goomba