Mashmate Relay Capacity?help

[pokolbinguy]

Alrighty so I might suss out the relay to just be on the safe side....but seeing that the guys at mashmaster ok'd everything I am not too worried.

Also on another note, and I know this has been covered before but I can't seem to find it using search.

Anyway how do you wire up the illuminated rocker switches (same as THIS) to make sure it illuminates when on. At the moment it is wired up and switches fine...but does not illuminate. I forgot to get my leco friend to make sure he wired it so they illuminate and by the time I thought of it he had left.

Do I have to run the supply to two of the blades? If so which ones? There are 4 blades on the back.



Cheers, Pok

EDIT: Worked the switches out....was simples as anything...just have to run an earth to the switch. Easy. Will fix it tomorrow. Just got to fix my new valve on my Kettle and its brew time. Awesome . If how ever you think this is wrong. can you please let me know.

 

[Screwtop]

Screwy,

If I am to put a relay in. What type should i get (as in model etc, so i can buy it and get my leco mate to install)?? and where in the circuit should it be installed.

Cheers, Pok

Checked Jaycar (where I bought it from) but couldn't see them listed, have a look HERE this is the relay cost me $12.95 at Jaycar. Your lecky mate could install it blindfolded.

Cheers,

Screwy

 

[LethalCorpse]

based on that advice from the supplier, don't sweat it. Just hook it up and all will be well. Adding a relay just adds another point of failure and a fair bit more fiddling in terms of choosing a a relay and hooking it up. The one screwy suggested would work, but you lose the zero crossing feature if the mashmate is using an SSR or circuit that has it. Would be nice to see the inside of one of these things so I can provide more specific guidance. but basically, if the mfr says it's good for a 10A element, it's good for a 10A element.

Forget about a contactor - they're an industrial relay designed for switching much bigger loads with much better reliability than you need for this job. They're also bloody expensive.

With those illuminated switches, you're supposed to switch the active with one side and the neutral with the other. This way, when you turn off the switch, neither is connected to your circuit. It's unusual to find those big square switches with 4 pins instead of six, but basically you put the supply on one pair and the load on the other. If the light is then always on, you need to swap them.

		   |

supp A   o | o supp N

load A   o | o load N

 

[LethalCorpse]

When you say "run an earth to the switch" I really hope you meant neutral, not earth. Never use earth as part of your circuit. If you didhook up an earth, and this worked, it means you don't have an RCD installed. Time to get the leco mate back to get one put in before you go any further. There's just too much that could go wrong with your rig to chance it.