Mangrove Jack Craft Series Yeasts

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iambj said:
Well perhaps I should apologize then.

But I won't, dried yeast is for lazy brewers or new brewers. I often hear other brewers who is so careful about there brews, then use a sub standard yeast.
That's fine. You can believe what you wish. However a lot of the dried yeasts are the same strain as some other liquid yeasts. Just packaged in a smaller packet in a way that needs different handling. It takes me around 20-30 minutes to make a starter for my liquid yeast and 15-20 for rehydrating my dry yeast. I see no reason one is lazier than the other.

Good luck with your ignorant elitism. I hope it helps you brew good beer.
 
iambj said:
Well perhaps I should apologize then.
dried yeast is for lazy brewers or new brewers.
Put your monocle back in good sir! There are some great dried yeasts availabe. Using them makes you neither lazy nor new.
 
iambj said:
Well perhaps I should apologize then.

But I won't, dried yeast is for lazy brewers or new brewers. I often hear other brewers who is so careful about there brews, then use a sub standard yeast.
Well **** me.
Obviously I have no idea and cannot make wort or ferment beer, fortunately my tastes are tuned to the lower end.
 
iambj said:
Well perhaps I should apologize then.

But I won't, dried yeast is for lazy brewers or new brewers. I often hear other brewers who is so careful about there brews, then use a sub standard yeast.
Clearly going to make plenty of friends with that attitude.

Dry yeasts are also used by professional breweries, both craft and megaswill alike. But you know best of course.
 
OK so you guys are using dried yeast because it is better than liquid yeasts? No? Why then?
 
There are lots of reasons and sources as to why dried yeast is in some cases, superior to liquid yeast. They both have their place, and you're not a lazy or inferior brewer if you choose either.

Have a read of this linl http://www.beerandbrewing.com/liquid-vs-dry-yeast/ and perhaps have a think about how your posts and comments might be perceived by others.
 
I use dried yeast as it is convenient.
I have not read anything suggesting one is better than the other apart from marketing spiel or one-eyed fan boy commentary.

I have used liquid yeast as there is more variety.
 
Screwtop said:
Use it frequently, a great yeast, rehydrate as per instructions and use at the rate of 1g/l and it will be away at 12hrs.

Screwy
Yep, I rehydrated and used 45g for 50L (good enough to 1g/L). Oxygen at the same rate as I use for liquid yeast. Its going now. Strong ferment, but it did take somewhere between 24 and 36 hours to get going..
By all accounts, people are happy with the result. I expect a good beer, but I prefer my active starters. I get fermenting within 12 hours with them, sometimes less than 6. +24 hours was a bit of a worry.
 
iambj said:
Well perhaps I should apologize then.

But I won't, dried yeast is for lazy brewers or new brewers. I often hear other brewers who is so careful about there brews, then use a sub standard yeast.
lazy brewers? that's absolute bullshit.

on what grounds are you stating using a dried yeast is being lazy? how do you determine dried yeasts are sub standard? sounds like a case of "oh i tasted a beer with dried yeast and it sucked therefore all beers made with it suck".

would you also suggest biab brewers are lazy because they don't use a 3 vessel system?
 
Considering this is a thread about a brand of dried yeasts, whether they are advantageous to liquids or not is not a discussion worth having.
Will be sure to give M44 a whirl in a future pale ale based on the recommendations in this thread, thanks gents.
 
I found the m44 nice enough for a pale ale, but I had it at ambient temperature at 14c and it was very lazy, the us05 however at the same temp fermented along nicely.
 
Tahoose said:
I found the m44 nice enough for a pale ale, but I had it at ambient temperature at 14c and it was very lazy, the us05 however at the same temp fermented along nicely.
i've never tried it that low. by lazy do you mean it stalled? was slow but fermented completely and/or took longer? didn't ferment?
 
It stalled until the temp rose by 1-2c.

I wasn't concerned as it was a closed pressure ferment so I knew the beer was safe. Notto and us05 will work well at those temps.

Give it a try. Easy to use for a faux lager too.
 
It's recommended that the M44 shouldn't drop below 18c. Obviously it's going to slow down below this.
If you're wanting a faux lager, then use the M10 workhorse. I've found it ferments well at 14c.
 
Just a quick report:
I've used the MJ British Ale yeast, M07, in a few brews over the last 6 months. (from a single packet, so 2 of 3 brews were from reused yeast)
All of them have been great, so all up i've been quite impressed with the noticeable "British" element this yeast seems to bring to the game. I couldn't really say whether its ester profile is as strong as the liquid equivalents, but it's obviously of a similar nature to my nose/palate.
There was perhaps a slight lag in starting, but nothing i'd be worried about, and the first brew took a little long to finish fermenting (not from stalling, it just took a few extra days than i expected). However the results were easily worth it.
So if you're looking for a "British" profile with the convenience of a dried yeast, the M07 would be a great choice, IMO.
 
mckenry said:
Yep, I rehydrated and used 45g for 50L (good enough to 1g/L). Oxygen at the same rate as I use for liquid yeast. Its going now. Strong ferment, but it did take somewhere between 24 and 36 hours to get going..
By all accounts, people are happy with the result. I expect a good beer, but I prefer my active starters. I get fermenting within 12 hours with them, sometimes less than 6. +24 hours was a bit of a worry.
Hey mckenry, try it again without Oxygen. As mentioned previously experiments (from memory around 2007) using O2 and a DO meter. Ferment lag time was extended when wort was oxygenated (pure O2 via diffuser) to 15ppm. Much shorter when dried yeast was simply rehydrated. Results were as to be expected using liquid yeast, oxygenation of wort after innoculation to 15ppm reduced lag phase.

Brew Well and Cheers,

Screwy
 
Some good info here from Danstar.

Yeast need a trace amount of oxygen in an anaerobic fermentation such as brewing to produce lipids in the cell wall. With out O2 the cell cannot metabolize the squalene to the next step which is a lipid. The lipids make the cell wall elastic and fluid. This allows the mother cell to produce babies, buds, in the early part of the fermentation and keeps the cell wall fluid as the alcohol level increases. With out lipids the cell wall becomes leathery and prevents bud from being formed at the beginning of the fermentation and slows down the sugar from transporting into the cell and prevents the alcohol from transporting out of the cell near the end of the fermentation. The alcohol level builds up inside the cell and becomes toxic then deadly.
Lallemand packs the maximum amount of lipids into the cell wall that is possible during the aerobic production of the yeast at the factory. When you inoculate this yeast into a starter or into the mash, the yeast can double about three time before it runs out of lipids and the growth will stop. There is about 5% lipids in the dry yeast.
In a very general view:
At each doubling it will split the lipids with out making more lipids (no O2). The first split leaves 2.5% for each daughter cell. The second split leaves 1.25% for each daughter cell. The next split leaves 0.63%. This is the low level that stops yeast multiplication. Unless you add O2 the reproduction will stop.
When you produce 3-5% alcohol beer this is no problem. It is when you produce higher alcohol beer or inoculate at a lower rate, that you need to add O2 to produce more yeast and for alcohol tolerance near the end of fermentation. You definitely need added O2 when you reuse the yeast for the next inoculum.
If you prepare a starter culture you will need added O2. in the starter and perhaps in the main mash as a precaution. You will need to follow the precautions as mentioned above. If the mash is designed to produce 3-5% alcohol you may not need added O2. Brewing above that needs added O2.
Regarding your comment about growing your own yeast that will not need added O2 in the fermenter; The Lallemand yeast factory grows yeast under a different metabolic pathway than you will have in your starter culture. We feed the media to the aerobic fermentation at a rate that will keep the sugar levels below 0.2% at all times to maintain the Pasteur Effect. This builds cell mass with minimum to no alcohol production. As the sugar level rises above 0.2% the Crabtree Effect begins and no matter how much air you feed the fermentation, alcohol + CO2 are the main by-products. Your starter culture will have a much higher level of sugar. You will produce some cell mass but mostly alcohol and CO2 no matter how much air you add by stirrer or bubbles.
Dr. Clayton Cone
 
For the record, I pitched a M27 Belgian Ale yesterday, at ~24°C, with the fermenter fridge set to 25°C. Some brief, vigorous stirring occurred.
About 8-10 hrs later, the initial stages of krausen were present. Shortest lag time i think i've ever had. FV now set to 27°C, so we'll see how this goes. Unfortunately i broke my hydrometer at the cleaning up stage (luckily it wasn't earlier!) so i can't check it's progress more accurately.
And yes, i did rehydrate (at ~30°C).
 
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