Lack of head
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Ducatiboy stu
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If you are after head retention like a comercial tap beer then you are not going to get it.
There are many factors that affect the type of head you get from a beer.
Head retention is not an indication of beer quality.
There are many factors that affect the type of head you get from a beer.
Head retention is not an indication of beer quality.
Gelding
Well-Known Member
hmm, I beg to differ here. It is to me, big time.
dicko
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Because you are using kits the mash work in brewing has already been done for you so if I were you I would be looking toward your glassware.
There are many topics on here on cleaning glassware but to cut to the chase, avoid dishwashing detergents.
What I have found successful is wash your glasses in a hot mix of unscented napisan and rinse with clean water then mix into approximately 3 litres of clean water, 2 teaspoons of Bi carb Soda and rinse your glasses in that and then into about 3 litres of clean water add 2 teaspoons of Citric Acid and rinse them in that solution, invert and let dry naturally in a clean environment.
My clean water is rainwater. Brisbane tap water is probably good.
Dont allow your beer glasses to be used for anything but your beer, milk and fruit juices can "kill" a beer glass.
I have used the dishwasher for cleaning glasses but I have run one of those cleaning capsules through the machine first. This removes any fats that may be present in the machine, then clean in the normal cycle. The capsules cost about $8 from memory and imo too expensive
My water is high in calcium salts here where I live and the result from the dishwasher is not as good as the above method.
Beer glasses that are stored near cooking operations, particularly frying of foods can be a problem, I store mine inside a cupboard away from the kitchen.
I might add here that the above method was given to me by Batz and everytime I pour a beer I mentally thank him for the info
There are many topics on here on cleaning glassware but to cut to the chase, avoid dishwashing detergents.
What I have found successful is wash your glasses in a hot mix of unscented napisan and rinse with clean water then mix into approximately 3 litres of clean water, 2 teaspoons of Bi carb Soda and rinse your glasses in that and then into about 3 litres of clean water add 2 teaspoons of Citric Acid and rinse them in that solution, invert and let dry naturally in a clean environment.
My clean water is rainwater. Brisbane tap water is probably good.
Dont allow your beer glasses to be used for anything but your beer, milk and fruit juices can "kill" a beer glass.
I have used the dishwasher for cleaning glasses but I have run one of those cleaning capsules through the machine first. This removes any fats that may be present in the machine, then clean in the normal cycle. The capsules cost about $8 from memory and imo too expensive
My water is high in calcium salts here where I live and the result from the dishwasher is not as good as the above method.
Beer glasses that are stored near cooking operations, particularly frying of foods can be a problem, I store mine inside a cupboard away from the kitchen.
I might add here that the above method was given to me by Batz and everytime I pour a beer I mentally thank him for the info
TimT
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Head and head retention in beer is not one I know much about.... though I'd like to. Nothing like supping a beer through a creamy foam*.
However, I find that the heads on my beer generally take time to develop - while a beer can be ready to drink in 10 days to two weeks, it's often about three weeks before a head really starts to develop. Head development seems to be a sign of an active yeast (so, some of my older beers have developed too much head).
I don't find the glasses have much to do with it.
My go-to brewing book (Strachan's 'Complete Guide to Beer and Brewing') also advises that the 'standard' Aussie way of pouring a beer - letting the beer fall onto the side of the glass and then slide diagonally down to the bottom - is wrong, and that the correct way is to let a little bit of the beer fall onto the bottom of the glass and then angle the glass diagonally so the beer falls onto the sides and slides down - to encourage a little, but not too much, head development. I think it works!
(Speculation: could head development occasionally occur because I use stubbies and not long-necks to bottle my beer - maybe higher pressure in stubbies?)
*You really can't escape the double entendres when talking about it, can you.
However, I find that the heads on my beer generally take time to develop - while a beer can be ready to drink in 10 days to two weeks, it's often about three weeks before a head really starts to develop. Head development seems to be a sign of an active yeast (so, some of my older beers have developed too much head).
I don't find the glasses have much to do with it.
My go-to brewing book (Strachan's 'Complete Guide to Beer and Brewing') also advises that the 'standard' Aussie way of pouring a beer - letting the beer fall onto the side of the glass and then slide diagonally down to the bottom - is wrong, and that the correct way is to let a little bit of the beer fall onto the bottom of the glass and then angle the glass diagonally so the beer falls onto the sides and slides down - to encourage a little, but not too much, head development. I think it works!
(Speculation: could head development occasionally occur because I use stubbies and not long-necks to bottle my beer - maybe higher pressure in stubbies?)
*You really can't escape the double entendres when talking about it, can you.
Sodium Percarbonate (half a cup chucked into the dishwasher and run it empty on heavy cycle) plus a normal tablet is a brilliant dishwasher cleaner outer.
I find glasses are very important indeed.
If you like a rocky head, try steeping 300g of Carapils, boil the runnings up for 15 minutes and add to brew. I find that my AG brews are usually extremely heady, in fact I often wouldn't mind less.
I find glasses are very important indeed.
If you like a rocky head, try steeping 300g of Carapils, boil the runnings up for 15 minutes and add to brew. I find that my AG brews are usually extremely heady, in fact I often wouldn't mind less.
_HOME_BREW_WALLACE_
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If your not up to steeping grains and your glass cleanliness is up to scratch, try adding 500g of maltodextrin to your next brew. This was effective for me when i brewed K'N'K.Ducatiboy stu said:
There are a few ways to help improve it. I also enjoy a great head on my beers.
Steep some Crystal or carafoam. -- This is not hard. Wack some in a swiss voile bag and throw it in warm water for 15mins will get you a long way there.
Decreasing sugar and swapping in dried malt extract -- you need more DME than sugar as DME will not fully ferment out, hence less sugar for alcohol, but more residual for body/head retention)
Maltodextrin that comes in Coopers BE2 etc is great as it does not ferment out
Addition of hops can actually aid in head retention
Glass cleaning practices. -- I put this last as I've found it can help, but to me is the least important factor. For the record all my glasses get washed in the dishwasher with no special rinsing.
Steep some Crystal or carafoam. -- This is not hard. Wack some in a swiss voile bag and throw it in warm water for 15mins will get you a long way there.
Decreasing sugar and swapping in dried malt extract -- you need more DME than sugar as DME will not fully ferment out, hence less sugar for alcohol, but more residual for body/head retention)
Maltodextrin that comes in Coopers BE2 etc is great as it does not ferment out
Addition of hops can actually aid in head retention
Glass cleaning practices. -- I put this last as I've found it can help, but to me is the least important factor. For the record all my glasses get washed in the dishwasher with no special rinsing.
Gelding
Well-Known Member
I also had issues when I started with K&K and bottled but were resolved when I went AG and kegged.
In addition to dextrines, I am led to believe that head foam and its retention are primarily to do with the amount of complex protein in the beer. They are residues that are part and parcel of the grain mashing process that do not find their way into K&K or extracts in the bulk manufacturing process. We could get into another large can of debate when it comes to head retention vs extent of malt modification, protein rests and the like. But not a good idea on this thread.
Therefore fully agree Kev's advice above, to get foam on K&K steeping or even a partial mash is the way. And it gets you one further step on the path toward AG as well.
In addition to dextrines, I am led to believe that head foam and its retention are primarily to do with the amount of complex protein in the beer. They are residues that are part and parcel of the grain mashing process that do not find their way into K&K or extracts in the bulk manufacturing process. We could get into another large can of debate when it comes to head retention vs extent of malt modification, protein rests and the like. But not a good idea on this thread.
Therefore fully agree Kev's advice above, to get foam on K&K steeping or even a partial mash is the way. And it gets you one further step on the path toward AG as well.
AndrewQLD
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All great advice above , a lot depends on the kit you are using as well, a mangrove jacks classic blonde dry has very little head unless pimped up with a some powdered corn syrup/maltodextrine, this kit is designed as a dry beer and the dextrines have been deliberately reduced to give the dryness which also reduces the head. Conversley a Muntons Brown Ale has a lot more dextrines left in during production and has a much better head.
In the end when brewing kits it pays to steer clear of the kilo of sugar or dextrose and look at using brew enhancers or brew boosters to give better body/mouthfeel and head retension, these contain dextrose, powdered corn syrup and dry malt in varying amounts and as pointed out above steeping crystal malts or doing a mini mash will help a lot.
In the end when brewing kits it pays to steer clear of the kilo of sugar or dextrose and look at using brew enhancers or brew boosters to give better body/mouthfeel and head retension, these contain dextrose, powdered corn syrup and dry malt in varying amounts and as pointed out above steeping crystal malts or doing a mini mash will help a lot.
TimT
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Oh, and to get head the addition of a small amount of wheat to the mash sometimes gets mentioned... can't say this has always worked for me, though the last beer of mine I drank was an extremely frothy wheat beer that only settled down to ordinary head after five minutes. Not the most important part of a beer, definitely - but still nice to have. So I may follow a few of the tricks mentioned on this thread later.
eungaibitter1
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I had the same problem for a bit mate and Qldkev's advice is spot on. Started steeping some crystal and using kilo ldme and the difference has been incomparable. Also tastier.
BottloBill
Well-Known Member
Tried just about everything from rolled oats in dark ales and stouts to carapils, wheat, crystal and the good old pour from height and slowly bring it back down to the glass to save some of the carbonation, all seem to have an effect to different degrees. I found that with the right combination of the above they go hand in hand.
B
bradsbrew
Guest
Big difference to achieving a foamy head and retaining that foam to lace the glass to the finish.
When talking K and K or bits you are best of using the enhancers as stated above and make sure your glass is clean, as above. When talking full mash you need to look at malts and mashing schedule to try and break the complex protein chains down.
If you want to learn more on the full mash side of head retention just type "Thirstyboy head retention" into the search engine at the top, choose google and you will find enough info/reading to fill your day.
Cheers
When talking K and K or bits you are best of using the enhancers as stated above and make sure your glass is clean, as above. When talking full mash you need to look at malts and mashing schedule to try and break the complex protein chains down.
If you want to learn more on the full mash side of head retention just type "Thirstyboy head retention" into the search engine at the top, choose google and you will find enough info/reading to fill your day.
Cheers
wow lots of info. im actually going to be doing my first grain steep in my next brew. is it good to boil my hops in the water from the steeped grain?
ill be doing all malt with the kit too.
I dont think my pouring style is an issue (im a bar manager after all, haha) but glass care is an issue.
its all food for thought though!
ill be doing all malt with the kit too.
I dont think my pouring style is an issue (im a bar manager after all, haha) but glass care is an issue.
its all food for thought though!
B
bradsbrew
Guest
Hey Sticksy, I live close, have some gear you could have(read free) to do a mini mash and show you how simple it is. Could even give you a kilo or two of fresh milled grain if it helps. If your up for a brewday you are more than welcome to come over and help with a brew. If you want to chip in for ingredients, about 15 bucks depending on brew, you can take a cube away.
Some good info here http://aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/43-partial-mash-brewing/
Cheers Brad
manticle
Standing up for the Aussie Bottler
Have a look at brew in a bag tutorials, buy a small grain bag from craftbrewer or somesuch. It's not difficult to do but it does help troubleshoot if you understand what is actually happening with the grain.
Basically you will soak some cracked malted barley inside a small bag at a certain temperature for a certain time to activate enzymes that will convert the starch in the grain to sugar. You will then have the same substance you get when you add malt extract to water but fresher and homemade.
To this you add hops for bitterness and flavour and you will then have the same substance you get when you add a kit tin to water only fresher and homemade.
Basically you will soak some cracked malted barley inside a small bag at a certain temperature for a certain time to activate enzymes that will convert the starch in the grain to sugar. You will then have the same substance you get when you add malt extract to water but fresher and homemade.
To this you add hops for bitterness and flavour and you will then have the same substance you get when you add a kit tin to water only fresher and homemade.
