fifis101
Well-Known Member
Awesome stuff. Same way I'll do mine I reckon. Are the check valve necessary? What's your reasoning for them?
KegLand Questions and Answers
- Thread starter KegLand-com-au
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duncbrewer
Well-Known Member
What's the pink brew?
I just used the ball lock connectors with the NRV built in. The idea is that only gas can go in and no liquid or gas can come out. So no siphoning up the gas tube if keg full, or balancing your system using keg pressure rather than injected CO2.
Not sure if the inline regulators act as non return valves, I have only one after my sparkling water keg which the regulator controls to 30psi and then beer is at 12 psi after the inline regulator.
I just used the ball lock connectors with the NRV built in. The idea is that only gas can go in and no liquid or gas can come out. So no siphoning up the gas tube if keg full, or balancing your system using keg pressure rather than injected CO2.
Not sure if the inline regulators act as non return valves, I have only one after my sparkling water keg which the regulator controls to 30psi and then beer is at 12 psi after the inline regulator.
Probably not but I do stupid things sometimes - they are a cheap enough for the extra bit safety they offer from me doing dumb things
Red lemonade for the kids of course !
My young fella likes to “brew” stuff for his own tap while dads making beer.
I wasn’t sure if the inline regs act as nrv either so put extra in since I do dumb things - I already had all of the other bits so instead of buying new gas disconnects I just got the in-line nrvs
duncbrewer
Well-Known Member
Didn't think it would be sparkling Rose.
Best thing I did was spurred a low pressure gauge to the top part of my keg fridge so that I can see the pressure without opening it up and getting a magnifying glass out to read the pressure on the inline regulator. Also fitted an old STC 1000 ( that broke as a controller) as a temperature display.
Best thing I did was spurred a low pressure gauge to the top part of my keg fridge so that I can see the pressure without opening it up and getting a magnifying glass out to read the pressure on the inline regulator. Also fitted an old STC 1000 ( that broke as a controller) as a temperature display.
Do you need to be able to read what pressure they are at? .. I just got them because I thought it would be handy to dial in the pour for each individual tap - even with my 2x reading glasses I can’t read those things !
duncbrewer
Well-Known Member
As you say very difficult to read those regulators. As I'm a one inline regulator onto 4 kegs it does let me know what's going on inside. But not that necessary. It is good to see the needle going up and down as the NRV lets gas into kegs. I think that the non return valves and the inline regulator do mean that I have to run a few more psi than if they weren't there. Do you have an opinion on that?
I will get another inline regulator if I modify the fridge a bit so that I can fit 2 more kegs in ( just a bit of trimming of the shelf supports is needed ) and then I'll put a wheat beer in.
I will get another inline regulator if I modify the fridge a bit so that I can fit 2 more kegs in ( just a bit of trimming of the shelf supports is needed ) and then I'll put a wheat beer in.
duncbrewer
Well-Known Member
Thanks that seems to explain why my system works nicely at 13 psi with the inline regulator and NRV on the kegs.
Honestly haven’t looked at the pressures that closely- I have the regulator on the bottle set to 15psi then just use the minis to dial in the pour .. too much foam I trim it back - no foam and slow pour dial it up a bit. Usually find the happy spot with a couple of pours but generally start around 11psi on the mini
duncbrewer
Well-Known Member
Next question is why is the EVA barrier tubing in 39 foot lengths?
GrumpyPaul
Well-Known Member
Hey @KegLand-com-au
Saw your email with the cheapy $2 hydrometers.
Have you ever thought of making plastic ones like the Coopers ones. They certainly don't break when dropped.
Saw your email with the cheapy $2 hydrometers.
Have you ever thought of making plastic ones like the Coopers ones. They certainly don't break when dropped.
When I was reading up on balancing lines and line lengths a lot of people giving advice said to start around 10 feet tube length (start long you can always trim back if too slow) and the lower the ID the better. I chose 4mm ID and started with 3m lengths - I was getting good pours at that without asking myself what I was doing wrong and settled there since i have seen a lot of people having difficulty and asking for help on balancing their systems so they don’t end up with just glass after glass of foam.
duncbrewer
Well-Known Member
I'm getting good pours with about 5 foot lengths.
I actually just wondered why the 39 foot length was settled on, not 50 foot or 10 metres but nearly 12 metres.
Perhaps it comes in 120 metre rolls and is cut down. I found that 39 foot was enough for a 6 keg refrigerator and the gas lines.
One of lifes' little puzzles.
I actually just wondered why the 39 foot length was settled on, not 50 foot or 10 metres but nearly 12 metres.
Perhaps it comes in 120 metre rolls and is cut down. I found that 39 foot was enough for a 6 keg refrigerator and the gas lines.
One of lifes' little puzzles.
Hahahaha! I am an idiot ... I thought you asking why my liquid lines were so long - think I was a roll and a bit for this one 12m on liquid line and 3 - 4m gas
donald_trub
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Kegland, about these upcoming cask bladders. They sound like a bloody fantastic idea, very clever. I was thinking maybe an extra gas port on the corny keg lid might be a good idea, so we could lightly carbonate the beer and then put a higher pressure on the regular gas post for dispensing. Would that work?
theSeekerr
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I don't think it entirely works out, though there might be a small benefit. The pressures inside and outside the bag are going to be equal, so if there's any gas headspace in the bag (and if you carbonate it, there will be, since it will come to equilibrium with some gas not in solution) that CO2 will get pressurised to the same pressure as the gas outside the bag.
BrewLizard
Well-Known Member
They do sound like a great idea. I think they would be even more amazing if able to be used in portable growlers for friends that don't have CO2 gear. Having to buy tiny 8-16 g CO2 cartridges is painful.
duncbrewer
Well-Known Member
How about sterilising a small wine bag ( deflated no contents ) and fitting connectors and tube to it and onto the gas post inside the growler. Then fill remaining space with beer, seal up growler. Then just pump air or water into the bag via the gas in on growler and the beer is forced out.
No need for CO2 that way, as short term solution.
No need for CO2 that way, as short term solution.
BrewLizard
Well-Known Member
Wouldn't it be a lot easier to have the beer in the bag and the air pressure externally? That mitigates the problem of having a perfectly-sized bag that has to physically displace every part of the keg.
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