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duncbrewer

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That's the other way to go, as long as the bag is bigger than the growler capacity it would fill all the spaces as it inflates.
It is the way things like keykegs work so the beer gets squeezed out. I suppose you want the pressure outside the beer filled bag to match the pressure inside to stop the gas coming out inside the bag and getting flat beer.
 

KegLand-com-au

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Hey KL team, any plans for a beer engine/hand pump?
We are in the process of making bladders to fit into standard corny kits. I think we are getting really close with this now. Once the bladders kits are available for this application there should be no reason to use a beer engine/hand pump from a practical standpoint as you will be able to use CO2 or even compressed air to dispense a low carbonated or flat beverage through a sparkler and then get the same results as a hand/pump. the cost of the setup will be less and also will not require significant changes to the bar area or tap system.

So we would like to release these bladders first and then see what guys like yourself think. If you guys really want the "romance" of having a beer engine looking device we might look at it again after the bladders are released.
 

KegLand-com-au

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Bump please :D
Using StarSan or Stellarsan is the best way to store the jockey box as this type of acid based sanitiser will prevent microbes from growing in the lines. As we only use stainless steel tapware in our jockey boxes it's fine to leave acid in the lines and taps for extended period. (Please do not do this if you get brass taps but pretty much nobody buys brass taps these days)

I should also mention for you guys looking for some great portable options we are in the process of making some new Benchy units that have double tap and carbon heat sink and run on 12 or 24v. These are in the pipeline too and I think for a portable keg dispenser that you can run of your car or caravan kit this is an awesome solution so look out for these in future. They are way more compact and the carbon heat sink means you don't need to fill the unit with glycol or worry about the glycol spilling out in transit. I think for guys who like camping (like myself) or 4WD this is going to be awesome.
 

KegLand-com-au

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Wouldn't it be a lot easier to have the beer in the bag and the air pressure externally? That mitigates the problem of having a perfectly-sized bag that has to physically displace every part of the keg.
Yes this is totally the way to go.
 

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This is how I have mine set up - no leaks no problems.
For our experiences so far we have found that the main issue if we hear of customers having leaks with duotight fittings is:

1. They are using the incorrect beer line type. Some beer line manufactures might say the line is 8mm but it's actually 7.9mm or something and this can cause problems. So either purchase our own Evabarrier beer line or some other brand designed for push in fittings.
2. We are getting some customers not push the line in far enough. It must push all the way to the back of the bump stop. One thing we are in the process of doing is putting marks on every duotight fitting to specify on each fitting how far the beer line needs to be pushed in. For instance if you look at these new duotight ball lock disconnects they have and arrow and line marking circled below:


I think quite a few customers do not realise how far the line is required to push in to get a good seal.

If you follow these two points we are quite confident that you will get a really good leakproof seal.
 

duncbrewer

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That push in distance would be good to know please for the majority of us. Then I could mark the tube with a pen line before shoving it in and would be aware if not in enough or if later it moved out.
 

KegLand-com-au

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That push in distance would be good to know please for the majority of us. Then I could mark the tube with a pen line before shoving it in and would be aware if not in enough or if later it moved out.
This does vary a little depending on which fitting design we use. So if you want to be sure the other way to determine the dept of the seat is to use something like a match stick or similarly sized pies of wire. You can put this into the hole and feel the dept. Then put it against the outside of the fitting and draw the line. So this is another way to determine the exact location of the seat. It's strange that other push in fittings on the market do not have any markings either. It really is something that should be done on all push in fittings. It will take us about 6-12 months to change all the injection moulds to include this marking.
 

duncbrewer

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Thanks as I only have 8 mm T and the mfl adapters again for 8 mm won't be difficult to get the measure of them. Although I won't be pulling them out to check that I've pushed them in far enough as all okay at the moment and let sleeping dogs lie.
Any answer to the question of why the reels of 8mm EVA tubing are 39 feet long / 12 metres ?
 

The Mack

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We are in the process of making bladders to fit into standard corny kits. I think we are getting really close with this now. Once the bladders kits are available for this application there should be no reason to use a beer engine/hand pump from a practical standpoint as you will be able to use CO2 or even compressed air to dispense a low carbonated or flat beverage through a sparkler and then get the same results as a hand/pump. the cost of the setup will be less and also will not require significant changes to the bar area or tap system.

So we would like to release these bladders first and then see what guys like yourself think. If you guys really want the "romance" of having a beer engine looking device we might look at it again after the bladders are released.

I thought it was the air (or N2 component of air) that created the tight bubbles/ mouthfeel / carbonation when pushed through a hand pump?

Probably a silly question but what benefits would a bladder provide other that single use/ sanitation?
 

Ballaratguy

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Using StarSan or Stellarsan is the best way to store the jockey box as this type of acid based sanitiser will prevent microbes from growing in the lines. As we only use stainless steel tapware in our jockey boxes it's fine to leave acid in the lines and taps for extended period. (Please do not do this if you get brass taps but pretty much nobody buys brass taps these days)

I should also mention for you guys looking for some great portable options we are in the process of making some new Benchy units that have double tap and carbon heat sink and run on 12 or 24v. These are in the pipeline too and I think for a portable keg dispenser that you can run of your car or caravan kit this is an awesome solution so look out for these in future. They are way more compact and the carbon heat sink means you don't need to fill the unit with glycol or worry about the glycol spilling out in transit. I think for guys who like camping (like myself) or 4WD this is going to be awesome.
Now this sounds very interesting. Keep me informed on this please
 

KegLand-com-au

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Thanks as I only have 8 mm T and the mfl adapters again for 8 mm won't be difficult to get the measure of them. Although I won't be pulling them out to check that I've pushed them in far enough as all okay at the moment and let sleeping dogs lie.
Any answer to the question of why the reels of 8mm EVA tubing are 39 feet long / 12 metres ?
Yes if you find they are already working find and you gave them a good firm push during the initial assembly the duotight fittings are probably fine and I would agree with you that you should just let sleeping dogs lie.

With regards to the EVABarrier this is a good point. We have been considering offering the EVA Barrier tubing in longer lengths too. Originally 12m length was chosen as it was the most common sized requested by home brewers for setting up kegerators. With that said we can start to offer this in 100m lengths if you prefer? Are you after longer lengths too? We do already sell these longer lengths into other countries but we just have not stocked this in Australia yet.
 

duncbrewer

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Yes if you find they are already working find and you gave them a good firm push during the initial assembly the duotight fittings are probably fine and I would agree with you that you should just let sleeping dogs lie.

With regards to the EVABarrier this is a good point. We have been considering offering the EVA Barrier tubing in longer lengths too. Originally 12m length was chosen as it was the most common sized requested by home brewers for setting up kegerators. With that said we can start to offer this in 100m lengths if you prefer? Are you after longer lengths too? We do already sell these longer lengths into other countries but we just have not stocked this in Australia yet.

Thanks is this available in USA or Canada ?
 

AlexB

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Hi Kegland, just wondering how your bucket buddy plus heating actually works. There is no info on how the heating works, not even on your new video about it. I can see that there is a display and two buttons but there is no info about that. what temps is it capable of reaching? or is it just an on and off situation with a temp displayed on the screen?
 

KegLand-com-au

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Hi Kegland, just wondering how your bucket buddy plus heating actually works. There is no info on how the heating works, not even on your new video about it. I can see that there is a display and two buttons but there is no info about that. what temps is it capable of reaching? or is it just an on and off situation with a temp displayed on the screen?
We have a heating wire around the bottom edge circumference of the Bucket Buddy. The digital temp controller will cycle this element on and off.

You can set the temp anywhere from 0 and up to 120C but obviously it would never get to 120C as the element is only a gentle 36watts. The 36watts of heating will be cable of getting the Bucket Buddy up to about 30C in cold ambient conditions (your not well insulated garage for instance). Then if you use some type of insulation to reduce heat loss then you will be able to get up to higher than 40C. Basically the more you improve insulation the higher temperature you can get too.

If you really wanted to "hack" the device you could reduce the length of the heating wire and increase the wattage but I really can't see why you would want anymore heating than 36Watts as this amount of power can get up to hotter temperatures that you would really need in standard fermentations.
 

Half-baked

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Regarding the Bucket Buddy, is it at all possible to:
1. Install a temp twister
2. Do closed loop transfers to keg (with a very low amount of pressure)?
 

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