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Hi Kegland, when are you expecting the oxygen regulator for the disposable O2 cylinders, KL02165, to be back in stock?

Should be back in stock in about 2 weeks.

Just out of interest do you guys want us to stock small flow meters that look like this:
X01102O2.jpg


We have been considering having these as an add on extra to our oxygen regulators. It's hard to regulate how much oxygen take up you have at the best of times. But without a flow meter it's even more difficult. Is this something that you guys are interested in?
 
We are very sorry about the huge wait for this product. We have already made many different design changes to the product but we really feel that these changes are worth the wait.
No worries, some of us have been happy to wait, can you detail the changes prior to release?
 
Should be back in stock in about 2 weeks.

Just out of interest do you guys want us to stock small flow meters that look like this:
X01102O2.jpg


We have been considering having these as an add on extra to our oxygen regulators. It's hard to regulate how much oxygen take up you have at the best of times. But without a flow meter it's even more difficult. Is this something that you guys are interested in?
I was looking at a flow meter for this reason, to be able measure the amount of oxygen that goes into the wort.
 
I was looking at a flow meter for this reason, to be able measure the amount of oxygen that goes into the wort.

Yes we will start to look into it. We really think this is something that you need in order to do the job properly. Would probably be sold as an additional part for about $10 so not prohibitively expensive.
 
No worries, some of us have been happy to wait, can you detail the changes prior to release?

We have been forward planning some of the accessories that go with it. So the new lid that has been designed will have the option for a glycol coil, thermowell and also fit other stuff like carbonation stone. In total the new lid has the ability to attach up to 6 items to it. So this was one of the important upgrades.

We have been changing the plastic grades in the valve to make them more chemically resistant.

We have also made some changes to the preform to further improve the material distribution in the finished fermenter wall.

We have been working on some other improvements to the valve so it doesnt bind up and is easier to undo.

We have made further changes to the way the collection container seal works so it's easier to use.
 
We have been forward planning some of the accessories that go with it. So the new lid that has been designed will have the option for a glycol coil, thermowell and also fit other stuff like carbonation stone.

Do you have a timeframe for the cooling coil? or is it a wishlist kind of thing?
 
This is something we are looking into at the moment but have not made a decision yet. Will be able to get back to you shortly on this one. Once we have some more information we will update this part of the website:
https://www.kegland.com.au/ingredients/hops/cyro-hops.html

Hi @KegLand-com-au I notice you've dropped the cryo hops part of the website? Can you shed any light on cryo hops for 2019, are they going to be available to homebrewers or was this just a kegland decision not to stock them?
 
After receiving a replacement for a deemed faulty MK3 from amazon.ca, I am sharing some thoughts.
The new reg has arrived and initial testing showed no leaks. In about 3 days after sitting under the pressure of 30PSI with no keg connected and the bottle turned off, I noticed a sudden drop of pressure on the HP side and by the end of the day both gauges went to almost zero.
I tightened the flare nut coupling and the leak slowed down but did not disappear.

Today I received a 1/4" BSP to NPT adapter (something to notice: KegLand regs use 1/4" BSP threads and will not be compatible with 1/4" gauges and valves in North America) and managed to install a shut off valve that I had sitting around.
Now its being a couple of hours with the reg set to 50 PSI and the bottle turned off and both gauges look dead still. But I will test for a couple of days, to make the final conclusion.

When I was screwing out the flare fitting to install the valve it actually head some thread lock or glue, which was not the case with the faulty reg. I've sent back to Amazon (something to note, @KegLand-com-au). So I presume there might be a problem with QA/QC at least for the North American market.
Finally, I probably won't be the first to say this, but @KegLand-com-au, please, get rid of the crappy outdated flare fitting. It is leaky. Or at least add a flare nylon nut to the standard package.
 
@KegLand-com-au is this something you can take a look at please?

These are suitable for hot side and can easily handle boiling liquid:
https://www.kegland.com.au/polycarbonate-sight-glass-2-piece-set.html


If you are talking about these tri-clover sight glasses the length is 160mm. I have just uploaded another photo showing the height of these:
https://www.kegland.com.au/1-5-inch-tri-clover-sanitary-sight-glass.html

So you can see he height in this photo:
https://www.kegland.com.au/media/ca...6e5fb8d27136e95/k/l/kl01816_-_sight_glass.jpg
 
Should be back in stock in about 2 weeks.

Just out of interest do you guys want us to stock small flow meters that look like this:
X01102O2.jpg


We have been considering having these as an add on extra to our oxygen regulators. It's hard to regulate how much oxygen take up you have at the best of times. But without a flow meter it's even more difficult. Is this something that you guys are interested in?
I would be keen
 
After receiving a replacement for a deemed faulty MK3 from amazon.ca, I am sharing some thoughts.
The new reg has arrived and initial testing showed no leaks. In about 3 days after sitting under the pressure of 30PSI with no keg connected and the bottle turned off, I noticed a sudden drop of pressure on the HP side and by the end of the day both gauges went to almost zero.
I tightened the flare nut coupling and the leak slowed down but did not disappear.

Today I received a 1/4" BSP to NPT adapter (something to notice: KegLand regs use 1/4" BSP threads and will not be compatible with 1/4" gauges and valves in North America) and managed to install a shut off valve that I had sitting around.
Now its being a couple of hours with the reg set to 50 PSI and the bottle turned off and both gauges look dead still. But I will test for a couple of days, to make the final conclusion.

When I was screwing out the flare fitting to install the valve it actually head some thread lock or glue, which was not the case with the faulty reg. I've sent back to Amazon (something to note, @KegLand-com-au). So I presume there might be a problem with QA/QC at least for the North American market.
Finally, I probably won't be the first to say this, but @KegLand-com-au, please, get rid of the crappy outdated flare fitting. It is leaky. Or at least add a flare nylon nut to the standard package.

You might want to consider the MK4 regulator:

This new model has several improvements but the main notable ones are:
1. Better guages
2. Colour coded and easily interchangeable pressure relief valves
3. I think that might find that the newer regulators that we have already use the 1/4 NPT thread. So i think you will not need this adaptor.
4. We have very tight QC on the MK4 regulators and every single one is tested for both pressure decay and pressure creep prior to being boxed up.

With regards to the MFL flare though we find these to be exceptionally reliable. So I am dubious if this is the source of the issue. I think it's more likely that you have a leak somewhere else. If you send us some photos and information to [email protected] this would help us a lot. Once you know the location of a leak it's normally very easy to fix. But the work is finding the location of your leak.
 
Just wanting to confirm the first lot of fermzillas will not be capable of handling boiling liquids but you intent to introduce an upgraded version that is? If so when will this be released.

Cheers
 
You might want to consider the MK4 regulator:

This new model has several improvements but the main notable ones are:
1. Better guages
2. Colour coded and easily interchangeable pressure relief valves
3. I think that might find that the newer regulators that we have already use the 1/4 NPT thread. So i think you will not need this adaptor.
4. We have very tight QC on the MK4 regulators and every single one is tested for both pressure decay and pressure creep prior to being boxed up.

With regards to the MFL flare though we find these to be exceptionally reliable. So I am dubious if this is the source of the issue. I think it's more likely that you have a leak somewhere else. If you send us some photos and information to [email protected] this would help us a lot. Once you know the location of a leak it's normally very easy to fix. But the work is finding the location of your leak.

Yeah, I agree the MK4 looks decent, but it is not readily available here in Canada at the moment. Anyways, I now got a brand new MK3 and since I've managed to fix the leak, I am quite happy with it.

In my case the leak was exactly at the flare fitting. Generally, there is a big discussion on the reliability issue of the flare fittings in both specialized literature and technical forums. The consensus appears to be that this type of fitting should be used only in duty critical applications (such as brake lines) where there is no need for dismount. In this applications the softer metals (such as copper) may be sealed straight, while for harder metals a copper or nylon flare washer should be utilized. In the case of MK3 (and I believe MK4) it is (I presume) chrome plated brass that forms the seal between MFL and FFL parts. Therefore, since the hardness of chrome plating is way above copper, at least a nylon washer should be added to ensure the reliable seal. However, given all the technological disadvantages of the flare fittings it is cheaper to use a simple barb fitting alone or in combination with a shut off valve. I'll send pics in a couple of days.
 
Boil overs are normally caused by the hot break and this is unavoidable part of the brewing process unless you want to add boil conditioning products as others have already suggested.

I don't know if this helps, but I've done half a dozen brews on my new Robo V3.1, most of them were a 30L boil volume. The first one almost boiled over, but I skimmed off some of the hot break material from the surface (I'm assuming that's what it's called...) when the temperature is getting to around 95 deg. Once I did this, I had both elements on and it boiled quite happily for the hour... (I had the robo set at 105 deg C). I might try just the 1900W element next time.


Q
 
Yeah, I agree the MK4 looks decent, but it is not readily available here in Canada at the moment. Anyways, I now got a brand new MK3 and since I've managed to fix the leak, I am quite happy with it.

In my case the leak was exactly at the flare fitting. Generally, there is a big discussion on the reliability issue of the flare fittings in both specialized literature and technical forums. The consensus appears to be that this type of fitting should be used only in duty critical applications (such as brake lines) where there is no need for dismount. In this applications the softer metals (such as copper) may be sealed straight, while for harder metals a copper or nylon flare washer should be utilized. In the case of MK3 (and I believe MK4) it is (I presume) chrome plated brass that forms the seal between MFL and FFL parts. Therefore, since the hardness of chrome plating is way above copper, at least a nylon washer should be added to ensure the reliable seal. However, given all the technological disadvantages of the flare fittings it is cheaper to use a simple barb fitting alone or in combination with a shut off valve. I'll send pics in a couple of days.

Thanks for that. We will take what you have to say into account. We just have not seen issues with the flare before and one of the reasons we like the flare is that it doesn't require seals that can perish, break or get lost. We do sell the flare washers that you can see here:

https://www.kegland.com.au/nylon-fl...all-lock-or-pin-lock-disconnects-1-4-sae.html

But from our experience we just prefer not to use these.

Ultimately the best way to connect gas line to the regulator is to use this fitting:
https://www.kegland.com.au/duotight-8mm-x-ffl-to-fit-mfl-disconnects-7-16-20unf-1-4-sae.html

As you can see in this photo:
https://www.kegland.com.au/media/ca...uotight_8mm_to_ffl_fitting_-_on_regulator.jpg

This gives you the ability to easily connect and disconnect your line and it's really the fitting that we would recommend for the job. The only think is it requires that the tubing is suitable OD and specification. I know a lot of people in Canada still use vinyl tubing which does work really well on barbs but not so well with push in fittings. We really have made quite an effort to get away from vinyl tubing in the past year due to ongoing concerns with plasticisers.
 
Just wanting to confirm the first lot of fermzillas will not be capable of handling boiling liquids but you intent to introduce an upgraded version that is? If so when will this be released.

Cheers


Yes unfortunately we have not been able to qualify the pressure rating for the high temperature FermZillas yet. So this will take longer to complete but we are doing testing on these at the moment. Should have more information regards to this in the months to come. It definitely looks promising so far though.
 
These are suitable for hot side and can easily handle boiling liquid:
https://www.kegland.com.au/polycarbonate-sight-glass-2-piece-set.html


If you are talking about these tri-clover sight glasses the length is 160mm. I have just uploaded another photo showing the height of these:
https://www.kegland.com.au/1-5-inch-tri-clover-sanitary-sight-glass.html

So you can see he height in this photo:
https://www.kegland.com.au/media/ca...6e5fb8d27136e95/k/l/kl01816_-_sight_glass.jpg
Not quite the same, I have a polycarb tube already, it isn't a sight glass though. I want something more like the TC unit. Basically one of these https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/flowsightcam.htm

Thanks for the TC sight glass measurement. Going to be slightly too long to fit under my conical without extending the legs (not a fan of having to sit the FV up on blocks).
 
Are the new Gen 3.1 overflow pipes (KL0592 and KL05913) drop-in replacements on a 35L Gen 3.0? The locking notch and new tension spring look like improvements worth having.
 
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