Kegging Setups

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Lord Raja Goomba I said:
Where did you get the hangy blackboard signs from?
Got them from a mate that's a CUB rep. Dunno if I like them yet. Have a few of the round things that I've painted with blackboard paint. Might switch back to them.
 
BKBrews said:
hmmmmm OK. Just had visions of the disconnect shooting off as I pull it off, as it's under pressure from the gas.

How about disconnecting the gas side? Shut it off first?
That won't make any difference because there's still pressure in the keg.

Anyway, as the others have said, you can remove the disconnects easily without spraying beer or having the things fly off. I did it recently to move a keg out of the way momentarily to dump some ice in my flooded font water reservoir since the only place it fits is behind the kegs. Perfectly fine, probably dripped a few drops of beer out of the disconnect but that was it.
 
Yep - dod it tonight - just held a rag under it and pulled it off. Only lost a few ml of beer. Sprayed with star San and off we go!
 
After a year of grafting, searching, picking up cheap/free stuff here and there, I'm finally done with this kegerator and it has a brace of beers and a soda water carbonating for a week.

BIG thanks also to Barls for the taps - they look the goods (photo is from an old (non-overheating) Samsung and don't do it justice). He's doing these taps for anyone who wants a tap to order, so hit him up!

DSC_0030_zpsqvgjsigp.jpg
 
mofox1 said:
Veery pretty.

I going to have a crack at making some tap handles (at some point)... where can you get the threaded inserts from?
Honestly, I don't know. I did see some on evilbay before I got these, but barls put the inserts into the handles for me, so I didn't have to seriously look to source these.
 
I got mine from connor breware but their the website is down.
this is what you're after:
http://www.easykegging.com.au/shop/all-products/tap-handle-insert/
https://shop.beerbelly.com.au/tap-handle-brass-insert.html

personally I would drill the hole a bit over-size and use epoxy to hold them in place. depending on how soft the wood is and how thin the handle is at the base you could split it just threading them in. Also people tend to yank on taps way harder than necessary..

or you could go this option & epoxy them in:

https://www.bunnings.com.au/romak-3-8-zinc-plated-hex-coupler-4-pack_p1100696
 
They do look good that's for sure. On my holidays coming up soon I want to have a go and making a couple of handles too, since there's a wood lathe here. Might even do some little hand painted "logos" of some sort for different beer styles so I know what I'm pouring.
 
Thought I'd posted these before but couldn't find quickly. Here are the white labs vial tap handles. The insert is a furniture leg insert from Bunnings. Can't remember the size but there are only a couple so take your tap in to see which fits.ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1477381212.341224.jpgImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1477381229.275122.jpgImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1477381240.227097.jpg
 
OK Help me get my head around something.

Let's say I force carb a keg to 2.5 volumes, using 12psi over a 2 week period. Once it reaches that max volume (2.5), can I disconnect it and it will stay carbed? Or will the CO2 come out of solution? Sorry if this is glaringly obvious to most people..

I'm only asking because I am shipping my Keezer off to my parents for Christmas, so my plan is to turn off the fridge, let it settle for 48 hours, take everything out of it, transport it, let it settle for 48 hours, hook it all back up and get it going again. I wanna know whether I can transport it 3 - 4 days before Christmas just to cool again, or whether I need to try and set it up earlier to ensure its properly carbed.
 
DJ_L3ThAL said:
Thought I'd posted these before but couldn't find quickly. Here are the white labs vial tap handles. The insert is a furniture leg insert from Bunnings. Can't remember the size but there are only a couple so take your tap in to see which fits.
attachicon.gif
ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1477381212.341224.jpg
attachicon.gif
ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1477381229.275122.jpg
attachicon.gif
ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1477381240.227097.jpg
I'm super confused... My 650SS taps have the flow control facing forward - how did you get yours/why are they facing the back?
 
BKBrews said:
OK Help me get my head around something.

Let's say I force carb a keg to 2.5 volumes, using 12psi over a 2 week period. Once it reaches that max volume (2.5), can I disconnect it and it will stay carbed? Or will the CO2 come out of solution? Sorry if this is glaringly obvious to most people..

I'm only asking because I am shipping my Keezer off to my parents for Christmas, so my plan is to turn off the fridge, let it settle for 48 hours, take everything out of it, transport it, let it settle for 48 hours, hook it all back up and get it going again. I wanna know whether I can transport it 3 - 4 days before Christmas just to cool again, or whether I need to try and set it up earlier to ensure its properly carbed.
You can take the gas off and it will stay at the same carb level provided you don't pour a beer from it. Some of the CO2 will come out of solution when the kegs warm up, but when you chill them down again, after a couple of days they should be back to where they were originally and you can carry on as normal.
 
Thanks mate. Perfect info. Kegs will be kept cold during all of this, just not in the Keezer, so sounds like I don't need a massive turnaround.
 
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