Improved Coopers Pale Ale Kit/can

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My plan was to possibly brew a Coopers "Green" Pale Ale kit in the next couple of days and was intersted if anyone has had any experience with this product and if they have added anything extra to improve the product - hops/ malts/etc ?

Out of interest - what type of hops do Coopers use for this product and for the sparkling ale?

Thanks for the feedback


Mark WS
Try the following...

Coopers Pale ale Can.
2kg of Light LME 150gms of Dark Brown Sugar.

Boil LME and sugar in 6-10 ltrs of water for 20 mins - add 25gms of POR hops at start od boil.

Optional 15gms of EKG at 3mins to go or dry jop with the EKG in the secondary for 2 weeks.

The green can yeast is good - or you could culture from a pale ale bottle.

Hope this helps.
A quick and lazy brew I do is the following:

1 can Coopers Pale Ale
1 kg dry light malt
Dissolve malt and kit
Make up to 20L
12g Cascade pellets (hop tea) in at the beginning and then add the kit yeast

After 3 or 4 days when the bulk of the fermentation has stopped add another 12g Cascade (I just throw them in dry).

At about the 2 week mark should be ready to bottle

I find thedry hops after 3 or 4 days adds a lot more aroma.

Are these kits you're talking about the Coopers Australian Pale Ale kits?
I believe pride of ringwood hops may be used in the Pale Ale cans, but if you like the taste of the bought variety, you will be dissapointed if you only use ringwood as it has a very low flavour and high bittering effect.

Coopers will give no technical info regarding their cans, however, you will notice their Pale Ale dry yeast sachets contains 2 separate types of yeasts. The larger particled brown yeast is their generic rapid acting and the second smaller particled lighter coloured yeast is reported (through general gossip of those in the know) to be Safale S33, which is excellent for ales & stouts.

I have had good results with adding 1.5Kg liquid LAM, 150g corn syrup, 20g fuggles + 8g hersbrucker hops @ 30 min boil, and 10 min finishing steep with 8g fuggles + 3g hersbrucker. Strain through stockings when pouring into fermenter. When you make your yeast starter add an additional 7g sachet of Safale S33 to the Coopers sachet to have the correct pitching rate of 0.5g yeast/litre of wort. You must rack after 3 days to reduce off flavours. This recipie gives a very full bodied ale somewhere between pale and real ale, a good chilly weather guzzle.

If you insist on culturing yeast from a bought pale ale bottle remenmer it will not take under 27 degrees C.

Vin I respectively disagree about culturing the yeast from the coopers pale ale. It takes nicely at 18-20*C. If your still in doubt I can post a starter I have sitting in a flask waiting to go. Anything less than 18*C and it slows right down. They must still have old stock in QLD as they only put one packet of yeast in their cans here.
Vin,Don't u mean over 27 c. or maybe 21c
I have used coopers reculture for about 6 years now and always keep it at 16/18c and never over 20.
The flava profile is excellent with a little diacetyll that dissapears early.
Any ale culture at 27 would be giving some off flavas.

My all amarillo pale that was bottled from secondary today was pitched with this culture and fermented at 18c and it tasted bloody beeeautiful. :beerbang:
BrissyBrew said:
They must still have old stock in QLD as they only put one packet of yeast in their cans here.

Only one packet of yeast down here in Vic as well.
I think you'll find he means two different kind of yeasts in the one packet.
hey lads i think you will agree that if you read Vins excelent description he actually dose not say two sachets of yeast but how i read it it was two type of yeast in the sachets supplied .
now correct me if i am right or wrong ,but i had a look at the yeast in my last kit just done and there seems to be two different types in the sachet one darker than the other .???

or was i suffering from sun daze from being out side in the sun ?


There are indeed two types of yeast in the Pale Ale sachet. One lager strain and one ale strain... You blend malts and hops, so why not yeast?

I currently have an Australian Pale Ale kit ready to keg. It had 450g Light DME, 1Kg Light LME, 150g white sugar and 100g brown sugar. Boiled the "extras" for 20 mins with one EKG plug for 15 mins and one for 5 mins with the kit added at flameout. Makes a decent beer, but not a Coopers Pale Ale clone.
PostModern said:
There are indeed two types of yeast in the Pale Ale sachet. One lager strain and one ale strain... You blend malts and hops, so why not yeast?

That doesnt at all suprise me, as the coopers yeast can take a hell of temperature range without halting fermentation or totally killing the yeast. It makes sense because if the fermentation temp drops too low for the ale yeast, then the lager yeast will keep it going.

I have done the coopers pale kit in the past myself, and I would have to recommend just simply adding the brew enhancer 2 that coopers recommend and using the supplied yeast. From memory this beer came out almost identical to the original. A pretty good kit beer if you ask me.


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