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Agree to all above. It looks like your beer is already settling as the neck is lighter than the main body of the beer. The bottle sediment is always in homebrew and is just dead/sleeping yeast and ( maybe ) bits of hops etc. Just pour the beer off in one go into a glass and stop when the sediment starts to get to the neck, unless you like sediment then suck it all back. :icon_vomit:

Just remember ferment at 18 deg all ales and use a better yeast like US05. If a homebrew shop attendant tell you something, CLARIFY it here before implementing it. Trust me - we brew, they sell.

After a week and a half in primary, let it come to 22-24 deg for a few days to finish off the ferment ( gives a much cleaner beer without getting all technical ) I think quite a few punters here let a brew go for two weeks as standard primary ferment. I do and it's improved my beers.

Key is pump as much out as you can to get a stockpile going so you end up drinking 4 week+ old beers constantly. Two fermenters help with this when starting out.

Then play with hops, more malt and reusing yeast etc. It all comes as a natural progression I find.
 
If you are at Uni probably get it all drunk within a week.

Surprised nobody mentioned using dark coloured bottles for your beer to avoid skunking.

Only trendy commercial brewers use clear glass using "skunk proof" hops and isohop additions.

Store them clear glass bottles in a dark cupboard.
 
That beer on the right is an awesome colour.

Im a bit suss about the pale one on the left though !

Overall, from what you're saying, I think your beer will be OK. There's a lot of great tips for your next brew, but for this time around dont stress too much, it will be fine (dont be alwarmed when you discover it tastes NOTHING like Corona - in time you'll realise that's a blessing)
 
If you are at Uni probably get it all drunk within a week.

Surprised nobody mentioned using dark coloured bottles for your beer to avoid skunking.

Only trendy commercial brewers use clear glass using "skunk proof" hops and isohop additions.

Store them clear glass bottles in a dark cupboard.

Yep, dont worry, the bottles are stored away in a cupboard. I only used the clear ones because I had a slab of Boags St George - so there's only 24 clear bottles - The others are all recycled coopers dark bottles, or bottles i bought from the brewshop.

And no, i don't expect it to taste like corona, and don't want it to. :D
 
After a week and a half in primary, let it come to 22-24 deg for a few days to finish off the ferment ( gives a much cleaner beer without getting all technical ) I think quite a few punters here let a brew go for two weeks as standard primary ferment. I do and it's improved my beers.

Where can I go to find out more info regarding what this actually does?

I've got a 23L Coopers Dark Ale using a pre-pack stout enhancer fermentables bag and S-04 yeast. It started with a SG 1043 and has sat at SG1018 for some time now. Its been set to 18 degrees since day one.

Do I need to increase the temperature for it to finish off some of the fermentables?
 
have you read the bible? http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter1.html

I'm not actually sure if it cover diacetyl rests in there, but essentially at the start of fermentation the yeast create byproducts, one of these being diacetyl which is described as being like butterscotch in flavour. Toward the end of fermentation, when they run out of sugars, the yeast might be too tired to clean up these byproducts. Increasing the heat for a few days helps them to remain active and clean up their mess.

[edit] its in chapter 8.3 too
 
Do you need to do a diacetyl rest if it's an ale ? I'm a bit confused as to what he is brewing. I thought you only had to do a diacetyl rest for lagers.
 
Do you need to do a diacetyl rest if it's an ale ? I'm a bit confused as to what he is brewing. I thought you only had to do a diacetyl rest for lagers.

It depends on whether the yeast is prone to throwing diacetyl, and if so, how much.....diacetyl is acceptable in ales, within reason, but some yeasts produce more than others. ;)
 
Back to original post, to get that Corona colour you need to use just a pure simple light pilsener grain malt with no other colourings whatsoever: here's an All grain one I did with just Galaxy Malt, and the bottles you see are my beer (cropped the photo so you can't see the home brew crown seals so take my word for it :lol: ), I bottled them off for my visiting son in law who is a Corona addict poor bugger.

solly_cerveza.JPG

The beer you made is designed to turn out a lot darker and initially when cloudy would present as a bit 'orange' in colour.
Don't worry.
 
Hey guys, good to see this thread is still going. So I got 50 or 60 bottles done and they have been sitting in a dark cupboard for a week. Today i moved them to the fridge, however every single one of them had the entire floor of the bottle covered in sediment. Is this normal? How could I reduce it? Will it affect the taste, or just look nasty?
 
Sediment is natural in any brew that isn't filtered. Remember you are not a commercial brewery.

You can reduce sediment in a number of ways:

Racking to a different vessel
Gelatine/fining
Cold conditioning

I use all three. Also store bottles upright and when you pour, pour gently and leave a few centimetres in the bottle.
 
Sediment is natural in any brew that isn't filtered. Remember you are not a commercial brewery.

You can reduce sediment in a number of ways:

Racking to a different vessel
Gelatine/fining
Cold conditioning

I use all three. Also store bottles upright and when you pour, pour gently and leave a few centimetres in the bottle.

I think he is refering to the sediment produced in the bottom of the bottle caused by priming,

in which case you will always have some sediment, it is a by-product of the carbonation of the beer when in the bottle :)

edit: But as manticle said, there are ways to minimise the sediment
 
I think he is refering to the sediment produced in the bottom of the bottle caused by priming,

in which case you will always have some sediment, it is a by-product of the carbonation of the beer when in the bottle :)


Indeed. However if you reduce the sediment in primary and secondary you will end up with less overall sediment in the bottle. As I said: sediment is a natural part of any brew that isn't filtered. Filtered brews aren't usually bottle conditioned unless I'm very much mistaken (as that would entirely defeat the purpose).
 
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