GUTEN

[FarsideOfCrazy]

Has anyone replaced the power switch on their guten? Can't find spares on KK. There's the one for the brewzilla but it looks like it only has 2 terminals on each side, where as the guten one has 3 terminals on each side.

I've changed the standard controller to the smart PID but it still uses the 3 terminals.

Is there a way to get the brewzilla one working?

 

[BrewLizard]

It's probably a SPDT switch, used as a SPST. SPDT are more common, and can be wired as SPST by just using the middle terminal + one of the outer terminals.

 

[Jayvan90]

I also did the smart Pid install.. I metered the 3rd pole on the switch it is not part of the switch circuit so a 2 pole switch will be fine for the you needs as it only breaks the acitive path to power the Pid and energise the pump switch

edit - this should be energise the SSR heating element circuit not pump switch
The pump is energised from the active pole before the switch.

 

[FarsideOfCrazy]

I also did the smart Pid install.. I metered the 3rd pole on the switch it is not part of the switch circuit so a 2 pole switch will be fine for the you needs as it only breaks the acitive path to power the Pid and energise the pump switch

So if I connect all the power wires together on one terminal it should work?

I'll get my sparky mate to check it before powering up just in case.

 

[Jayvan90]

So if I connect all the power wires together on one terminal it should work?

I'll get my sparky mate to check it before powering up just in case.

If you don’t make the connection to the switch where I have circled and put a cross it won’t make any difference to how the unit operates, the diagram is just demonstrating how to use the existing wiring and where to add new wires for the retrofit - double check with your Sparkie mate for piece of mind

 

[Jayvan90]

https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/rock...ViDArCh3yTA92EAkYBCABEgJpq_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Check the dimensions on this one - it looks like it might be a suitable replacement switch

 

[duncbrewer]

Did you fit the smartPID? and / or who did you source it from or the alternative?

How do you find it effects the temperature control?

I thought I done all the Guten upgrades I wanted but now I'm thinking?

Just fitted three way tap in main up pipe and swapped out the tap for a half inch ball lock valve, it's really improved the flow for whirlpool and to the coolossus, with a lot less hassle.

 

[Jayvan90]

Did you fit the smartPID? and / or who did you source it from or the alternative?

How do you find it effects the temperature control?

I thought I done all the Guten upgrades I wanted but now I'm thinking?

Just fitted three way tap in main up pipe and swapped out the tap for a half inch ball lock valve, it's really improved the flow for whirlpool and to the coolossus, with a lot less hassle.
View attachment 121155View attachment 121157View attachment 121156View attachment 121158

I went pretty crazy on mine also mate

 

[Jayvan90]

Did you fit the smartPID? and / or who did you source it from or the alternative?

How do you find it effects the temperature control?

I thought I done all the Guten upgrades I wanted but now I'm thinking?

Just fitted three way tap in main up pipe and swapped out the tap for a half inch ball lock valve, it's really improved the flow for whirlpool and to the coolossus, with a lot less hassle.
View attachment 121155View attachment 121157View attachment 121156View attachment 121158

I have only had one brew with the PID since the SSR had a meltdown - replaced with a much better one and have only had a test run so far with water - however the temps have been more accurate and stable just in the tests.
Yes I fitted the Smart PID purchased from Italy myself with no problems and have it connected to internet and remote controlled by Brewfather which is great for dropping the recipe mash schedule to the PID as well as not having to navigate trying to enter recipes manually into the unit.

 

[duncbrewer]

Ahh that's nice work. Guess I'd need a pretty solid relay for the Guten 70. Might wait till nearer christmas before going on the PID route.

My whirlpool a little shorter and more parallel to the kettle edge than yours and just using the inbuilt pump, which is pretty powerful on the 70, I narrowed the exit down for the whirlpool which also helped increase the whirlpool speed.
Glass lid no good with my condenser.

 

[Jayvan90]

Ahh that's nice work. Guess I'd need a pretty solid relay for the Guten 70. Might wait till nearer christmas before going on the PID route.

My whirlpool a little shorter and more parallel to the kettle edge than yours and just using the inbuilt pump, which is pretty powerful on the 70, I narrowed the exit down for the whirlpool which also helped increase the whirlpool speed.
Glass lid no good with my condenser.
View attachment 121171View attachment 121172

The one I used would be fine for the 70l, I use the internal pump for recirc only and it’s also controlled via the PID program. I use the larger external pump for whirlpool and cooling - I have a third pump that runs the cooling water in bucket that I add 14kg blocks of ice to .. I can get down to 18c in about 35mins

 

[FarsideOfCrazy]

I went pretty crazy on mine also mate

Are they the cheeky peak bulkheads that you used for those 3 piece ball valves? I've tried a couple of methods to replace the standard tap without much success.

 

[Jayvan90]

Are they the cheeky peak bulkheads that you used for those 3 piece ball valves? I've tried a couple of methods to replace the standard tap without much success.

Yes cheeky ones .. one was in what they called a “whirlpool kit”

 

[duncbrewer]

Thanks @Jayvan90
Didn't realise the PID controlled the pump as well, just on or off for pump or rate as well?
Not sure how quick the coolossus is, but our ground water is about 16 celsius and so I just use the water for washing brew kit or on the garden.
I just attached my half inch ball lock with a male to male adapter, washer and the bulkhead nut and washer.

 

[Jayvan90]

Are they the cheeky peak bulkheads that you used for those 3 piece ball valves? I've tried a couple of methods to replace the standard tap without much success.

This
https://cheekypeakbrewery.com.au/na...-304ss-3-piece-ball-valve-set-whirlpool-elbowand this
https://cheekypeakbrewery.com.au/nano-quick-seal-dump-valve-304ss-3-piece-ball-valve-set

 

[Jayvan90]

Thanks @Jayvan90
Didn't realise the PID controlled the pump as well, just on or off for pump or rate as well?
Not sure how quick the coolossus is, but our ground water is about 16 celsius and so I just use the water for washing brew kit or on the garden.
I just attached my half inch ball lock with a male to male adapter, washer and the bulkhead nut and washer.

It doesn’t control flow only on off for the pump, I just use the ball valve that came with the unit to set flow .. you can control a HLT as well as a second pump if you want to start going down that rabbit hole but that also means wires out to separate units etc etc

 

[Grok]

I have only had one brew with the PID since the SSR had a meltdown

If I was you, I would leave the compartment lid off for air flow, and maybe get a small CPU cooling fan as well for the heatsink. Those SSR would use a triac component, and they generate a lot of heat when full current is going through them, you need to wick it away as quick as possible. Your certainly looking for trouble in a small closed compartment with no fan forced air flow.

That third terminal that seems is not part of the power switching on the Guten, would be to have the light come on when the switch is turned on, you need to attach the "neutral" to it. That switch assembly is actually a double switch, one for PCB, and one for the pump.

 

[Jayvan90]

If I was you, I would leave the compartment lid off for air flow, and maybe get a small CPU cooling fan as well for the heatsink. Those SSR would use a triac component, and they generate a lot of heat when full current is going through them, you need to wick it away as quick as possible. Your certainly looking for trouble in a small closed compartment with no fan forced air flow.

That third terminal that seems is not part of the power switching on the Guten, would be to have the light come on when the switch is turned on, you need to attach the "neutral" to it. That switch assembly is actually a double switch, one for PCB, and one for the pump.

Thanks Grok, with the lid off or on that compartment there would be little to no airflow either way as that is the base that it sits on, was going to check in on the ssr after each brew for the first few to make sure it was coping as it will be difficult to mount any kind of fan without it just blowing hot air from the compartment under the heating element around.
I hadn’t considered the light in the switch but if going to a 2 pole replacement it doesn’t matter too much since the PID screen will light up and make the switch light redundant to a degree. Also correct on the double switch with one used for the pump- with the pid retrofit that switch becomes redundant as the pump is switched via the pid.

 

[duncbrewer]

I've just been looking on the smartpid website. Do you think it can cope with a 3000w element?

 

[Jayvan90]

I've just been looking on the smartpid website. Do you think it can cope with a 3000w element?

Here is the SSR I used to replace the melted one, it’s rated to 40amps up to 280v
RS PRO 40 A rms SPNO Solid State Relay, Zero Cross, Panel Mount, TRIAC, 280 V ac Maximum Load | RS Components