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Grok

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Your old SSR was 40A, they are capable, but you need to have good heat dissipation to use the higher currents. Do the maths: 3000w divided by 240v= 12.5amps
I would at the very least drill air vent holes above and below the SSR heat sink to allow natural convection to occur, cool air will come in from the bottom and rise through into the element compartment which will actually help heating the kettle as well (a bit!). Also I have put a rat tail file over my base to allow more incoming air, see photo.
Guten base air venting mod.jpg
 
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Jayvan90

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Your old SSR was 40A, they are capable, but you have to have good heat dissipation to use the higher currents. Do the maths: 3000w divided by 240v= 12.5amps
I would at the very least drill air vent holes above and below the SSR heat sink to allow natural convection to occur, cool air will come in from the bottom and rise through into the element compartment which will actually help heating the kettle as well (a bit!). Also I have put a rat tail file over my base to allow more incoming air, see photo.
View attachment 121176
Good call on the holes Grok thanks ! - also when I did some research on the fotek SSRs it seems they are prone to failures so I just accepted that it was possible I got a bad one and replaced it with the one I did figuring that my 2500w element at full power is just a little over 10amps and well under the rating of the replacement SSR. Will get the drill out tomorrow morning !

also while researching the fotek ssr I found a great YouTube of a guy testing the temp of the ssr with different loads - at around 10amp load for over an hour the ssr heat sink temp stabilised at about 48c so this added to my conclusion of having a faulty ssr in the first instance.
 
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duncbrewer

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@Grok
Good advice, I wanted my maths checked, thanks for confirming I haven't forgotten it all. I think that jayvan90 has only 2500 watts on his Guten, but not totally sure.

I've got some fairly heavy duty PC chip heatsinks with inbuilt fans so I think come the day I'll see if I can fit that on instead of that rather inefficient looking heatsink and fit a bit of ducting to allow cooler air in and hot air out. Probably good for all of the electronics to keep them a bit cooler.
The Guten 70 doesn't sit on a complete ring of plastic but has gaps of several cm between the supporting parts of the plastic base ring and also a vent grille in the side of the base which I can put the ducting onto.
Should be a cool solution.
 

FarsideOfCrazy

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Got it working with a 2 terminal switch, thanks for the info @Jayvan90. Got the smart PID tuned in and it's now sitting just under by 0.2c max or spot on the set point, which I'm more than happy with.

Those mods for whirlpooling and CF chilling are something I want to do next. You guys have given me inspiration.

Cheers
 

Jayvan90

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Got it working with a 2 terminal switch, thanks for the info @Jayvan90. Got the smart PID tuned in and it's now sitting just under by 0.2c max or spot on the set point, which I'm more than happy with.

Those mods for whirlpooling and CF chilling are something I want to do next. You guys have given me inspiration.

Cheers
Don’t forget to back off the boil power a bit or you will get a bit of scorchio like I did !
 

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