bird
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Finally worked it out. Nothing pretty but works. Will work on improving it.
GUTEN
- Thread starter wide eyed and legless
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Finally worked it out. Nothing pretty but works. Will work on improving it.
golfandbrew
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I found a manual from Braumarkt for their Arsegan. File says too large for me to upload, but it looks like a Guten, and operates like a Guten, so it must be, right?
wide eyed and legless
Well-Known Member
Tried 3 meters of helix coil in the 40 litre Guten today emptied the kettle at 21 C. Emptying worked really well got my forecast 21 litres into the fermenter. Just have to live with the loss to trub.
golfandbrew
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What's the coil look like in an empty kettle?
wide eyed and legless
Well-Known Member
That's at 4 meters, looks neater at 3.
bird
Well-Known Member
Slightly improved jacket for the 70lt guten. Can see the full sight glass now and also got some insulation from some old air conditioning pipe to put over the recirc pipe.
I'm interested in how you guys do your sparge with the guten. The first brew I did I just lifted the malt pipe and ran the sparge water through very quickly. Second brew I held the malt pipe and slowly lifted it over 40minutes so the water moved through slowly. This was very painfull process as I forgot to refill my beer before starting. I am thinking of some sort of whinch setup which I can slowly lift the malt pipe with. any suggestions?
I've been told that a slower sparge gives better efficiency. Is this true?
wide eyed and legless
Well-Known Member
There are different thoughts, I believe it does others will say just pour it onto the grain bed.As you have the 70 litre that will be a long sparge. With my 50 litre and the hoist I have been thinking along the lines of a batch sparge, instead of 'no sparge' because of the higher volume of grain in the mash.
More reading here.
https://aussiehomebrewer.com/threads/low-efficiency-should-i-sparge-with-more-water.100355/
golfandbrew
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You held the malt pipe for 40 minutes, that's just showing off!
Doesn't the 70 litre have multiple steps on the malt pipe? Why not lift to the first, sparge a bit, lift to the second, sparge a bit, etc.
bird
Well-Known Member
Did that the first brew I did and Had low efficiency. I had a mate with me who has done 3v ag for many years and he mentioned that a slower sparge was important. Pretty easy to do with a 3v System but painstaking on the guten. I have only done 2 brews so far so don't know if the slow Sparge is the reason for the better efficiency or if it was just luck. from what I have read and been told it makes sense to keep doing it. Trying to find a way to hook up an electric winch or something to lift the basket slowly And not have to hold it for so long.
bird
Well-Known Member
Interesting reading weal. I don't know a lot about the different sparge methods yet but how will you batch sparge With the guten? I thought a batch sparge you had to drain the grain bed and then refill with sparge water and drain again.
2095brewer
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I have the 50L guten elevated and add 30L of 75deg water and slowly sparge into a keg. When i have the desired volume or get a gravity low enough to stop, I stop, Lift the malt pipe (a lot lighter as not as much wort in there) and pump the wort back in and start the boil. Takes longer, but it’s a balance between getting the efficiency or shortening the brew day?!
wide eyed and legless
Well-Known Member
As 2095brewer states is what I am going to do.
Fro-Daddy
Well-Known Member
Did my second batch in the 70L today.
I added a 1m helix for this batch, seems to fit alright.
Not much colour makes it in to the sight glass while the pump is running.
As soon as the pump is stopped this is all that ends up in there @wide eyed and legless
Helix did a good job.
It flowed great for most of the first cube, but was quite slow near the end of the second one.
My telescopic overflow pipe broke after removing the grain. It was super flimsy and the tiny spot welds weren't enough to hold its own weight. I'll call KK tomorrow but I might have to get a bolt and block it up.
I added a 1m helix for this batch, seems to fit alright.
Not much colour makes it in to the sight glass while the pump is running.
As soon as the pump is stopped this is all that ends up in there @wide eyed and legless
Helix did a good job.
It flowed great for most of the first cube, but was quite slow near the end of the second one.
My telescopic overflow pipe broke after removing the grain. It was super flimsy and the tiny spot welds weren't enough to hold its own weight. I'll call KK tomorrow but I might have to get a bolt and block it up.
bird
Well-Known Member
Mine broke last weekend as well. Spoke with kk and they sent me a new one no questions asked. I had the same with the sight glass. Clear when mashing and then noticed the bottom half had colored after the sparge pushed more water in.
How important is the overflow pipe? Is a stuck Mash a common thing?
How important is the overflow pipe? Is a stuck Mash a common thing?
Fro-Daddy
Well-Known Member
I've never had a stuck mash, but I like the insurance of it.
Today I had to go out and refill my co2 while it was mashing so I set the pipe to 15mm or so above the wort and had no worries.
I've been doing no sparge so I am usually quite close to the handle holes anyway.
Today I had to go out and refill my co2 while it was mashing so I set the pipe to 15mm or so above the wort and had no worries.
I've been doing no sparge so I am usually quite close to the handle holes anyway.
wide eyed and legless
Well-Known Member
I think if you change the Tee piece to an elbow you will get a little extra wort by pointing the elbow at an angle downwards, fit a capillary blank on the opposite end, those Tee's sit too proud out of the wort.
How did the sight glass break?
I really think you would be better off without one, nothing wrong with a piece of dowel with increments marked on it.
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Fro-Daddy
Well-Known Member
It was the telescopic overflow pipe that broke. The height adjustable one attached to the bottom screen of the malt pipe.
I was thinking of getting an elbow and putting the bazooka on the other end to cap it off.
goatchop41
Well-Known Member
It's just a safety feature. The good thing about a telescopic overflow is that you can set its height above the grain bed to just a little less than the distance between the bottom of the unit and the malt pipe, then you'll never run the risk of a burnt dry element - as it'll never accumulate more liquid on the top than comes out of the bottom
I lost a few parts to my overflow pipe so was keen to get the telescopic one, but these reports of broken welds is a bit worrying. I had a badly scorched element after brewing a hefeweizen with my overflow blocked up, probably could have been avoided with more rice hulls, but a telescopic overflow would have helped too.
Fro-Daddy
Well-Known Member
Another bloke on FB said his broke as well, I think it will be very common.
They look to have a few little spot welds at the bottom but it just isn't enough. Hopefully the replacement they are sending me is better.
They look to have a few little spot welds at the bottom but it just isn't enough. Hopefully the replacement they are sending me is better.
