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GUTEN

Discussion in 'Gear and Equipment' started by wide eyed and legless, 1/3/17.

 

  1. wide eyed and legless

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    Posted 10/2/19
    Not with the galvanising as such but the bare mild steel end will rust.
     
  2. Cian Doyle

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    Posted 11/2/19
    Oops, I got galvanized, will change it. Fermentation has taken off nicely, I have read varying opinions about harvesting yeast. My next brew calls for a different yeast, how long will the yeast I have now (US05) last if I leave 25 mm of fermented wort over it?
     
  3. malt and barley blues

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    Posted 12/2/19
    That should be fine for a couple of weeks.
     
  4. Wobbly74

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    Posted 12/2/19
    I'd avoid galv myself, particularly in an acidic environment.
     
  5. wide eyed and legless

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    Posted 13/2/19
    Nothing wrong with a bit of zinc, good for you and the yeast.:) If doing a 21 litre no sparge the level will not come up to level of the hole 23 litre it will. To be on the safe side s/steel would be the go, mild steel and s/steel is not a good mix.
     
  6. lespaul

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    Posted 14/2/19
    Goatchops on the money, shouldn't get astringency unless you're really giving the grain a hard time (pH, oversparge, high temps). http://beersmith.com/blog/2015/10/2...ains-oversparging-and-hot-sparging-your-beer/
    I'd really struggle to do full volume without sparging, haven't bothered to block the holes though. So I have the option of filling with water or sparging. Seems for little effort I don't have to waste all the sugar I've already got. Each to their own though!

    On another note, brew day today went much smoother. Still getting some mild scorching, or more like a brown crud buildup on the concealed element, which is something I guess I'll have to live with. Other than that was an easy brew day.
     
  7. Ballaratguy

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    Posted 19/2/19 at 4:21 AM
    First brew completed on Saturday’s went really well & hit all the figures well but I stuffed up on the timing of the hops. No burning on the element either (boiled on full power) just some greying on the base but overall I’m really impressed with the Guten.
    The helix if awesome too made a very clear wort even if I did forget to whirlpool
    Question for the more experienced guys:
    The instructions say to NOT run the pump during the boil. I thought that it made for a more even temperature through the wort by having the pump circulating the wort
    What do you guys do?
     
  8. wide eyed and legless

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    Posted 19/2/19 at 4:47 AM
    The turbulence of the boil will even out the temperature. I am thinking of getting a second pump, connect it to the tap then back into the kettle, (this will be for using an immersion chiller) hopefully that will stop any break material blocking the helix.
     
  9. Ballaratguy

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    Posted 19/2/19 at 5:39 AM
    I’ve actually got a second pump which I had for my robo V1 I also hook it to the tap for when I hot cube. When I had it on the robobrew I ran it all the time
     
  10. Ballaratguy

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    Posted 19/2/19 at 5:41 AM
    I may also add that so far I’m happy with the quality of the Guten as against the problems that they seem to be having with the robo’s & the GF’s
     
    wide eyed and legless likes this.
  11. wide eyed and legless

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    Posted 19/2/19 at 6:15 AM
    That is why the Guten has gone to a 2 year warranty.
     
  12. krz

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    Posted 19/2/19 at 6:35 AM
    I didn't know that, Ive been running mine all the time and even use it to pump into the fermenter.
    I wonder why you shouldn't use it during the boil?
     
  13. wide eyed and legless

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    Posted 19/2/19 at 7:30 AM
    If you are using the pump to pump into the fermentor then you are also transferring whatever is in the kettle. You have no screen over the pump intake, yes you can buy one but it doesn't filter out unwanted crud from the boil.
     
  14. krz

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    Posted 19/2/19 at 11:12 AM
    ok, thanks WEAL, I was more worried about temp.
    I use hop spider, i whirlpool and I also use a household sieve (fine mesh) when pumping to the fermentor. not much gets thru the pump.
     
  15. goatchop41

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    Posted 19/2/19 at 9:19 PM
    Mostly because there's absolutely no point to using it during the boil. The whole point of recirculation during the mash is to clarify the wort and help with getting an even temperature through the grain bed. During the boil all of the liquid is at or very, very close to boiling point, so that negates the need for temperature management, and there's no grain bed to filter through for further clarification of the wort. Therefore there is absolutely no reason why the pump would need to be on at any point in the boil.

    The other thing to consider is whether or not the pump is actually temperature rated to deal with boiling wort, which I have no idea about. I'm sure that KK lackey, sorry, I mean insider/overly loyal customer/good friend of KK WEAL could help us all out there with some info...
     
  16. ABG

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    Posted 19/2/19 at 9:40 PM
    I have a Robobrew and always put the pump on for the last 15 minutes of the boil (I checked that it's rated for boiling water). That way I can run the pump when I start running cold water through my immersion chiller knowing everything is sanitised. Having the pump running while the chiller is in action drops the temperature much faster. Of course, if you're just throwing your wort into a cube, then that becomes irrelevant.

    Off topic, why is there so much Robobrew bashing on this thread? It's really tiresome and far from entirely factual. I've got an R3 and run over 30 batches absolutely problem free. Both the Guten and Robobrew are fantastic all in one brew units that have opened up possibilities to AG home brewers like no other products else previously. There's just no point in rubbishing one product or the other unless there are serious and persistent issues. Both on this forum and its competitor, there are heaps of Robobrew users like me who haven't had issues. Let's face it, at this price point, you're not going to get something that has the QA of a Grainfather.

    Edit: Typo
     
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  17. malt and barley blues

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    Posted 19/2/19 at 11:13 PM
    I don't think WEAL's or KK's advice is needed for this one, anyone who has a Guten and read the instructions, it clearly states under, Circulation use of pump. Circulation of pump not necessary during boil process. Excessive heating of pump may cause damage.
    As the pumps of the Robobrew and Guten are the same and Keg Land states it is OK to run the pump during boil I think I would be erring on the side of caution and not running the pump simply because there is no need.
     
  18. goatchop41

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    Posted 20/2/19 at 6:36 AM
    Thanks for the clarification. My Guten was one of the 'direct from China' jobbies, before KK started bringing them in, and the instructions that came with it are very scant. I had assumed that they would be better with KK selling them now (hopefully they've made their own instruction booklet!), but I wasn't 100% sure
     
  19. goatchop41

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    Posted 20/2/19 at 6:45 AM
    Just speaking personally, from looking on online forums and facebook groups, RB problems are just much more common and severe than Guten issues. The worst that I've seen for Gutens is a few elements burn out (from using them on max wattage all of the time), a couple of PCBs malfunction, and the rocker switches failing (which is a common one).
    RB failures, well you've got the really common burning out of the circuit board due to it being crap quality and getting overheated, pump failures (including a run of people last year who had blocked pumps in their first couple of brews due to swarf from manufacturing being stuck in there!!), issues with stuck mashes and sparges due to the double bottom screens. The list goes on.

    Hopefully KL have sorted the QA issues out with their Brewzilla, but until proven otherwise, the quality and QA of the Guten seems to be much better
     
  20. wide eyed and legless

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    Posted 20/2/19 at 6:48 AM
    The Robobrew 3.1 is OK, it is the models before, I mentioned it in the Guten v Robobrew 3 the circuit board was crap in the 3. The 3.1 they have improved the circuit board, this should have been done before the Robobrew 3 was released. But it has cost Keg Land money rectifying it. Fleabag put up a thread showing the circuit boards, the 3.1 is a vast improvement to the 3.

    Next week I will be reviewing the Brau Wolf another SVB from China there are 2 versions the 40 and the 60 litre. I will be reviewing the 60 litre. What I would like to see is to go up a notch and the units to mark time until a button is pressed to continue, much like the Brau Meister. Mash finishes, wait until the button is pressed ready to boil.
     
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