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That is my interpretation of 'Dead Space', below the outlet, but it is a divided issue as some say it is what is under the grain basket.

Wouldn't it depend on what part of the process that you are referring to the 'dead space' in?
Eg. When looking at a mash tun and wanting to working out strike water volumes at a specific grain to liquor ratio, then the space under the false bottom would the 'dead space'. But when considering the boil kettle then the dead space would be under the outlet?
 
Wouldn't it depend on what part of the process that you are referring to the 'dead space' in?
Eg. When looking at a mash tun and wanting to working out strike water volumes at a specific grain to liquor ratio, then the space under the false bottom would the 'dead space'. But when considering the boil kettle then the dead space would be under the outlet?

I would think exactly that what you said.
 
Wouldn't it depend on what part of the process that you are referring to the 'dead space' in?
Eg. When looking at a mash tun and wanting to working out strike water volumes at a specific grain to liquor ratio, then the space under the false bottom would the 'dead space'. But when considering the boil kettle then the dead space would be under the outlet?
Good question, but considering the wort is circulating throughout the mash that also changes the volume under the grain basket at any given time. It is noticeable that from initial mash in that the liquor level can build up on the top of the grain bed which will depend on the grains/ adjuncts in the mash and it is important not to let the flow be going through too slow. So to work out the strike volume I would be going with the volume above the outflow, as I do a no sparge it is something that I don't really consider,
maybe nosco can answer better now he has fitted a sight glass.
 
Done. I hope I will never have to do that again. Back to the parenting thing for a while.
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Nosco, what is the length of that sight glass? Cheeky peak have 2 sizes 280mm or 400mm. I'm thinking the 400 would be the right size but I'm not at home to check.
 
Iys the 400ml. I askes Cheeky Peak and they have the aluminium ones. I would highly recommend the chrome plated ones which you can get at iBrew. No affiliation of course
 
If anyones wondering the sight glass is not 1/2". A bit of 1/2" threaded tube slips right over the sheild if you screw the top cap off. But a 1/2" threaded valve does screw onto the cap thread. Its not a wobbly lose fit either. Its pretty tight. With a bit of tape its very snug and water tight. I havent tested this on a chrome sight glass though.
 
And dont take the glass out when you take the cap off. It wont go back in properly.
 
Does anyone else get this kind of staining over the element? This is after a perc clean and scrub. I guess its scale or something as citric or similar gets it off. Scrubbing with a hreen scrubby appears to get it off but the marks reappear when it dries.

It wouldnt bother me except it seems to be getting worse. This is where stuff sticks during/after a brew.
IMG_20171218_182551.jpg
 
Have you any idea what it is nosco? I haven't had anything like that, when I have finished a brew I clean mine out with cold water, flushing it through the pump, and the bottom where there is some sugar residue I rub with whatever citrus fruit I have handy. The day before my next brew i put a few litres of water in heat it to 60 degrees C put in the perc and recirculate for 20 mins.(just in case anything has grown in the pump or pipework.)
 
No idea what it is. I comes off with citric so im guessing some kind of scale (is that the right word?) but i didn't think it would develope that quick. I give ot a scrub with a scrunby tonight and let it dry. Then ill use citric to see the difference.
 
I gave it a clean with a green scrubby and it came up as good a gold. I'll have a look in a few hours. Could it be from boiling perc? Occasionally i boil up the perc to use as a weed killer which is what i did on Sunday.
 
I gave it a clean with a green scrubby and it came up as good a gold. I'll have a look in a few hours. Could it be from boiling perc? Occasionally i boil up the perc to use as a weed killer which is what i did on Sunday.


I don't get this either, could it be differences in water? Myself and WEAL probably have the same water source.

Perc as a weedkiller? never heard that before, how does that work?
 
Its the boiling water that kills the weeds not the perc. It cooks em instantly and no poison involved. It's good for killing path weeds en mass.
Im assuming that WEAL is in Melbourne some where which i think is pretty similar all over ie surface water. Im in Melbourne wester subs. Ill just need to keep an eye on my cleaning process to see when it happens again.
 
Its the boiling water that kills the weeds not the perc. It cooks em instantly and no poison involved. It's good for killing path weeds en mass.
Im assuming that WEAL is in Melbourne some where which i think is pretty similar all over ie surface water. Im in Melbourne wester subs. Ill just need to keep an eye on my cleaning process to see when it happens again.

Would it kill Kikuyu? most of my grass is Kik but its got into some of my raised boxes and I need to kill the fecker off before it takes control, hardy on the lawn but a B'stard to get rid of elsewhere.
 
Would it kill Kikuyu? most of my grass is Kik but its got into some of my raised boxes and I need to kill the fecker off before it takes control, hardy on the lawn but a B'stard to get rid of elsewhere.
Cover it over in the boxes with black plastic that will kill it. It is hard to get rid of in your lawn.
 
I reckon it would kill anything if you put enough on there. Probably plants too if it got too close to the roots. I only use it on mulched beds and paths.
 
I have been unhappy with a few of my recent brews and I have never hit my beersmith estimates to date, hence with my kindle xmas present I downloaded 'Brewing Better Beer' by Gordon Strong, I know WEAL has referenced this a few times and its a different sort of book than palmer.

Anyway after reading a few sections I decided it was really time to stop 'winging it' and get to know my equipment better and hopefully be able to configure Beersmith accordingly and get better results. One thing I alway seem to have issues with is volumes, whilst we know the GUTEN has measurements they are known to be wrong, hence today I purchased a stainless steel rule and decided to measure volumes in CM's myself. Whist this is not exactly scientific and I understand temperature will affect these I think its a good starting point and better than I have now, hopefully these may help others too. I did a scientific measure of 1L (I weighed it!!) and then added 5L at time measureing the level on the rule with both the mash tun in and out. One thing I did do is ensure I had the helix connected up just as I would on brewday, with the TUN out I placed the rule inside the tun rails and into the recess at the bottom of the machine, with TUN in I just placed down the side of the tun and tried to ensure it was straight. Pics and results are attached.

Now onto something more interesting, whilst reading the book above I noted this comment from Strange 'Your measurements should be based on the amount of water in direct contact with the grain, not the total volume used. On my system, I measure the amount of water it takes to reach the top of the flase bottom and deduct that from my strike water calculations when determining mash thickness'. This got me thinking is this what we generally called dead space? dead space in the Guten is again something I've never really nailed down, if he's talking about dead space here then I have calculated this at approx 6.5L in the GUTEN which is way higher than I've seen in anyones equipment config, whilst doing these measuremeants I also measure the amount of water left in after draining through the tap with the Helix in and came up with 0.92L, which is lower than I've seen specified for dead space before. Can anyone enlighten me on how to accurately set dead space.

Hope you all had a great christmas.

Regards

Leyther
 

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And a happy new year to you Leyther. I would still be going for the outlet level as dead space, Strong doesn't (I believe recirculate on his rig) so the liquor coming into contact with the grain is all of it. Take off the 0.92 which you will lose and work from their, I think that the liquor expands by 4% around boiling point. If you calculate the loss to grain, I have found it to be just under 1 litre per kilo then you just have to calculate the loss to evaporation on your boil setting (wattage). I previously said my boil setting was 1,500 w but actually I should have said 2,000 w which is the setting I use throughout the process.
 
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