Grain Mill Motor

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Cervantes said:
Thanks for that.

I suppose it's a case of try it and see.

Cervantes said:
Okay, I've been doing some research and seen a couple of builds where they have used a "start capacitor" (Whatever that is)

So..............

  1. What's it for?
  2. Do I need it?

Thanks
It depends. A starter cap provides a huge surge of power to get the motor turning. Depending on the power supply it may not be needed. If you see a laptop charger etc just check the output specs and post it up here. We can let you know it it should work. But generally you want +12vdc with hopefully at least 10amp, but preferably 20amp or more.
 
Spiesy said:
Why do you need 250W?

What is the torque rating?
From their specs
Model: SC250G, 250w
Rated Speed: 320RPM @24VDC,
Nominal Torque: 7.46Nm
Measures: 110mm Dia x 115mm L (+shaft)
Weight 2.2kg

Why 250w? A few guys on here years back tried a few smaller electric motors, and virtually all motors eventually overheated and died. This is the one AndrewQld settled on and worked. When I first got into brewing I used his mill many times, so I just got the same mill and motor combo he had.


I need to update my website as I no longer use this motor. It was fine crushing normal brewing grains, but after putting through hundreds of kg of corn the power supply and motor both died together. One part must had died and spiked caused the other to die too. (Corn is many times harder to crush than barley/wheat/rye) I ended up with the motion dynamics motor / brewers combo along with the bigger power supply they recommend. The new combo even though rated to a lower power rating, definitely has more torque. I ended up snapping 2 spider couplers crushing corn with the combo. I've given up milling the corn via this mill, as I thought long term it will stuff the mill. The motion dynamics speed controller died on the second run, not sure why as I have not checked I just bypassed it. The motor spins slower than the old oatly/scooter motor even without their controller.

Just as a cross reference for the torque, the motion dynamics is now using a 200w motor
Peak Torque: 20 Nm (Newton Meters)
 
Okay,

I've ordered this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/231446651015?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2648

I have an old laptop power supply or two kicking around and also a couple of half decent battery chargers, so with luck one will work.

Will have to wait until I take delivery before ordering the spider coupling as I don't know the shaft size of the motor or my mill at the moment.

Edit:

The battery charger puts out 7 amps.

http://www.ctek.com/au/en/chargers/MXS%207.0

I can't see the laptop power supply putting out enough grunt.
 
I've now ordered this power supply which should deliver ten amps.

I have a question though.

How would I rig a forwards and reverse switch?

Is it a case of reversing the polarity to the motor to make it run backwards?

As you'll have guessed I'm not the full monty electrically.

Edit:

A bit of Googling later I have found this.................

DC-motor-reversing-switch-schematic-wiring-diagram-285x275.jpg

Looks simple enough with the right switch.

Any advice?

Thanks in advance.

Andy
 
Reversible so a blockage can be removed ,maybe?
 
Cervantes said:
I've now ordered this power supply which should deliver ten amps.

I have a question though.

How would I rig a forwards and reverse switch?

Is it a case of reversing the polarity to the motor to make it run backwards?

As you'll have guessed I'm not the full monty electrically.

Edit:

A bit of Googling later I have found this.................

DC-motor-reversing-switch-schematic-wiring-diagram-285x275.jpg

Looks simple enough with the right switch.

Any advice?

Thanks in advance.

Andy
That's how I wired my wiper motor switch on my setup. Like Spog says, good if it jams, however I hope my shear pin fails in that instance. Fwiw I rarely use mine in reverse.
 
Cervantes said:
Okay,

I've ordered this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/231446651015?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2648

I have an old laptop power supply or two kicking around and also a couple of half decent battery chargers, so with luck one will work.

Will have to wait until I take delivery before ordering the spider coupling as I don't know the shaft size of the motor or my mill at the moment.

Edit:

The battery charger puts out 7 amps.

http://www.ctek.com/au/en/chargers/MXS%207.0

I can't see the laptop power supply putting out enough grunt.

I just noticed that scooter motor you ordered does not seem to have reduction gearing, 2650rpm at 24vdc. Half the volt (DC) = half the speed, so 1325rpm, thats one fast mill.
 
QldKev said:
I just noticed that scooter motor you ordered does not seem to have reduction gearing, 2650rpm at 24vdc. Half the volt (DC) = half the speed, so 1325rpm, thats one fast mill.
Bike chain and large spocket fitted to mill shaft, instead of fexible coupling maybe..
 
...about losing a finger.
 
QldKev said:
I just noticed that scooter motor you ordered does not seem to have reduction gearing, 2650rpm at 24vdc. Half the volt (DC) = half the speed, so 1325rpm, thats one fast mill.
Whoops......................

I'd better try again then. Or start looking for a pulley and belt.


Edit:

Or would something like this work?

Or maybe this? which is for the scooter motor.

I figure that the scooters don't go flat out all the time. There should be a way to control the speed of the motor.
 
claypot said:
Haven't lost any toes riding my moto in bare feet yet!!
But does your bike's drive train operate at crotch level in the presence of cheap alcohol?
 

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