Final gravity for Black Rock cider kit?

[Ruddager]

I currently have a "winter cider" fermenting away, made from a Black Rock kit and a kilo of dextrose plus cinnamon and vanilla. The only problem is, I don't know what sort of final gravity to expect. It's been slowly dropping over the last two weeks and I intend to give it another week anyway, but it'd be nice to know how far off it is. OG was 1.036, a week later it was 1.024 and now (another week after that) it's 1.012.

Any suggestions?

 

[JDW81]

It should finish pretty low. Ciders (if made from pure juice at least) will often finish in the 1000-1004 range.

Cider tends to take a bit longer to ferment, so be patient. I'd give it at least another week, with the expectation that it will head below 1010. Just make sure you have two consecutive hydrometer readings that are the same. (I usually do this check over 72 hours).

FWIW I ferment my ciders for a month minimum.

 

[Ruddager]

Hmmm that's what I thought. Normally I brew ales and take two measurements a week apart. It's usually nearly done by the first week, so I only see a small change (ifany at all) after the second, so if it's about what I expect I go ahead and bottle it. That's me showing pretty much maximum patience, so the occasional cider is always a test for me!

 

[Ruddager]

1.004 now - that's gettin' good and low. It's probably finished

 

[Ruddager]

Well I got ready to bottle it Sunday and it had gone down again to 1.000. Decided to leave it a few more days rather than risk bottle-bombs

 

[Deep End]

if its 1.000 today, bottle it and be done with it

 

[bum]

if its 1.000 today, bottle it and be done with it

Given that the batch was 4 points higher 3 days ago, I don't really see how there's time to have had 2 days of consistent readings in order for you to be stating so unequivocally he should bottle immediately.

Also, a bit of conditioning time before bottling will do your cider all sorts of favors, Ruddager.

[EDIT: typo]

 

[Ruddager]

Conditioning time is good, but I'm quickly running out of stuff to drink and if I don't get an ale in the tub soon I'll be force to buy beer!! I'm going to bottle it as soon as it's stable. It's had more three weeks in the fermenter anyway - that'll surely help.

 

[Deep End]

Bottle it, dont bottle it, leave it in the FV for 6 months if he likes Bum. If its at 1.000 fairly safe to say no bottles are going to go Boom! Just my opinion, pretty sure I'm still able to have one.

 

[bum]

I didn't say anything about bottle bombs. It is about good practice. Good practice (if we're lucky) makes good brews. Don't bottle before you're certain you've reached FG. It's not just about safety, it is also about predictable carb - waiting further still is about better brews.

Just my opinion, pretty sure I'm still able to have one.

Yeah but you're doing it wrong.

 

[Ruddager]

0.097!! Oh well, I'm bottling it. Will keep a keen eye on the bottles and if they get too tight I'll release some gas.

 

[Deep End]

Sounds like a plan, and here's some more "bait" for bum.

I rang the manufacturer of my kit cider for some information a few weeks ago.

Some of that information was to bottle at 1.000, the yeast supplied will, given time, go down to 0.990 but if let go that far the end product will be hard if not impossible to carbonate.

That was from the manufacturer, which is why I guess it says bottle at 1.000 on the side of the can.

Just saying

 

[bum]

the yeast supplied will, given time, go down to 0.990 but if let go that far the end product will be hard if not impossible to carbonate.

This is complete nonsense. You misunderstood or they are morons.

Or both.

Or vice versa.

You've just implied that kit cider manufacturers deliberately tell people to bottle 10 whole points early. This is just awful internetting. Please stop it.

 

[Deep End]

That is what I was told by the bloke on the end of the phone in QLD who manufactured the particular kit I was making, I wanted to know what yeast was in the kit, he told me it was a wine yeast, and went on to tell me what I previously posted.

And what defines awful internetting anyway, new term I'm unfamiliar with?

 

[Deep End]

I dont care too much for your implication that I'm a misunderstanding moron much either, not too fussed about the manufacturer, dont know him personally. But no need for the name calling, you have no basis to imply I am either or both.

 

[bum]

I would have thought I was doing it pretty blatantly.

 

[Deep End]

Either way you have FA information on which to make such an assumption, I expect more from you, you seem to know so much about everything else.

 

[bum]

Are you going to address the issue I raised at any point? Or just keep punching walls over nothing?

Why won't a cider carb if it ferments so low? How is it that anyone here who has actual experience in bottle carbing dry ciders has been able to break the laws of physics as defined by some bloke on the phone?

"Dunno. That's just what I was told" is not really a suitable answer if you're digging in this hard.

Why would a manufacturer tell people to bottle up to 10 points early knowing full well that they are likely to throw maybe another 3 points on top of that when the prime?

You've misunderstood something or spoken to the cleaner.

 

[Deep End]

So should I ring him back up and ask why is it so? Nah cant be bothered. Like it said at the end of my post....Just saying. Wasn't claiming I had any facts to base what I got told on, I was just saying. Ok....

Just saying

 

[goomboogo]

That was from the manufacturer, which is why I guess it says bottle at 1.000 on the side of the can.

Kit manufacturers aren't the most reliable source of information. Some of the instructions on cans are woeful.