Fermzilla

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
No it doesn't?

12 psig at 20C is 26.7psia at 293.15K
5C is 278.15K

The absolute pressure will reduce proportionally to the absolute temperature. (278.15/293.15) * 26.7 = 25.3 psia = 10.63 psig

In reality you'll see it read a tiny bit lower than that after cold crash - the increased solubility of CO2 in cold beer will see some of it enter solution, and there's a tiny bit of volume change attributable to the contraction of the liquid as it cools. All the same, you cold crash a beer at 12 psig you're going to be seeing 9+ PSI, not "about 1PSI".

Interesting.
All the charts I've seen everywhere don't reflect on that calculation but it makes perfect sense.
 
Given the details that you shared in your earlier post, I would be thinking that it is a combination of the cleaning chemical that you are using, and more importantly the exposure time.
I don't mean this in a rude way, but have you actually read the manual for the product that you are using? It very clearly what products they recommend, and maximum exposure times
OK, lets see, yes I have RTFM, and guess what those products are if you care to look under the covers!
  • Super Kill Ethyl Sanitizer Spray : basically ethanol/alcohol solution......hand sanitizer solution of which we are all familiar with now.
  • StellarSan: "Phosphoric Acid based cleaner"
  • StellarClean (PBW): "is a buffered alkaline detergent", "pH of 1% SOLUTION: 11-12", "Silicates, Oxidizing agents, Phosphates, and Surfactants"
StellarClean is looking very similar to TSP that is also 11-12 pH and is essentially a buffered alkaline solution....hmmm......., I wonder if it's the same stuff with a bit of detergent (surfactant) thrown in there, could it be that they don't actually don't make any of this ****, but just buy bulk base materials and repackage stuff, as most shops do, and have the cheek to claim their stuff is soooo much better!
I never stated I do extended soaking, others have though.
But in all this, nobody is answering my question, just going down a sidetrack "thinking" maybe because I don't use the companies "propriety products" like all the other sheeple, that this must be the problem!
I have had a close look at this plastic with magnifier glasses and it has distinct blemishes. What I want to know is why some parts of it are completely smooth as I would expect the plastic to be for this purpose, and some (most) of the rest is pitted and has "lines" in the surface!
All I am asking is others have a fkn look and tell me ffs!
 
All I am asking is others have a fkn look and tell me ffs!
I commented mid last year about a patchy "cloudiness" on the KL Q&A thread, never got a response, and it's still there and I can't get in to scrub it, vessel still works and hasn't exploded yet, only had PBW and starsan in it, but PBW at longer than the recommended exposure times, not overnight just 4 hrs, Kee says 20 min's is recommended but doesn't give any explanation, and good luck getting an answer, too many "embarrassing" questions just gets you banned from their thread.
So to answer your fkn question yes I did look and posted my observations, which I have repeated here for your benefit.
fwiw I think it's a quality issue, why are some areas cloudy/rough when other areas (exposed to the same compounds) are clear/smooth, well it aint fkn rocket science is it!
I have no idea about the intricacies of PET but would bet a pound to a piece of **** that there's "cheap" PET and there's "expensive" PET, guess what your fermzilla is made from, would be interesting to see if any of the PET whatevers from the other team have similar issues.
Don't bother one less I'm over the fan boi crap.
 
I have purchased a second all-rounder with the intention of setting up the dry hop in it and using the co2 of the ferment to purge the secondary. I waited until the ferment had been going a little before adding the hops into the secondary to minimize the o2 contact as much as practical, but I thought it better to get them in as early as possible as this allows more co2 purge the secondary before I do the transfer.

The reason I am doing this over using the original FZ is that I think it will result in quicker and easier cleaning and generally less messing about, especially since I have a bucket blaster (which is awesome BTW).

I will report back in a few weeks as to how it tastes compared to the last one I did where I threw the hops in through the top of the all rounder (same wort and dry hop).
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5764.jpg
    IMG_5764.jpg
    164.3 KB
Plastic plus pressure plus big valve at the bottom is not a good idea no matter who makes them. If I was interested in pressure fermenting, which I’m not as plain old atmospheric has worked well for a very long time, it would be stainless, regardless of kegking/kegland dibbydobbing/nernernernerring
 
I've done 5 batches in my fermzilla and while I haven't had any of the issues with it not sealing or anything like that, I've just sold it to move back to something more simple until I can get some unitanks. The collection container is an absolute pain in the ass. I am a convert to pressure transfers though, so I will either swap to the G3 and use SS brewtech tri-clover elbow and butterfly valve with the tri-clover adaptor (I already have the parts), or will move to the all rounder and continue using a blow off, with the pressure kit only for pressure transfer purposes. I only bought the FZ because I wanted to dump a lot of the cold break prior to pitching (using counterflow chiller), but haven't actually even done that once - most of the time the collection container only half fills for some reason, and then the rest is left in the main body. Yeast has been eating it all up anyway, so it hasn't been a concern.
 
There's obviously issues with the fermzilla that KL refuse to admit or address, they changed the design but are not man enough to admit it (too many warranty replacements maybe) buy one but do your due diligence, in other words Google fermzilla failures.
 
Plastic plus pressure plus big valve at the bottom is not a good idea no matter who makes them. If I was interested in pressure fermenting, which I’m not as plain old atmospheric has worked well for a very long time, it would be stainless, regardless of kegking/kegland dibbydobbing/nernernernerring
it's not that much more expensive to get a 26L kegmenter. i really dunno why they aren't more popular...
 
I've done 5 batches in my fermzilla and while I haven't had any of the issues with it not sealing or anything like that, I've just sold it to move back to something more simple until I can get some unitanks. The collection container is an absolute pain in the ass. I am a convert to pressure transfers though, so I will either swap to the G3 and use SS brewtech tri-clover elbow and butterfly valve with the tri-clover adaptor (I already have the parts), or will move to the all rounder and continue using a blow off, with the pressure kit only for pressure transfer purposes. I only bought the FZ because I wanted to dump a lot of the cold break prior to pitching (using counterflow chiller), but haven't actually even done that once - most of the time the collection container only half fills for some reason, and then the rest is left in the main body. Yeast has been eating it all up anyway, so it hasn't been a concern.
I’ve bought the G3 and love it. I’m also considering getting another one
The only downside that I have experienced is being able to get the bottom of it to seal so it doesn’t leak under pressure (arthritis in my hands). I also think that if they were made with a thread on the bottom to be able th screw a 2” tri clamp into would be a vast improvement
 
it's not that much more expensive to get a 26L kegmenter. i really dunno why they aren't more popular...
I’ve got a 50 litre from kking and a 58 litre from kland and used a 60 litre all rounder for the first yesterday.
Why the all rounder? It’s so wonderfully light and you can see where the float is. I’ve had a few brews where you think you’re done and discover 5 litres of beer in the bottom. It is a bit big for my fridge but one of the pet bottle t pieces as a 90 degree adapter fixed that.
A2C44AE9-AD41-49A2-A652-D2C651E1F9EE.jpeg
 
I’ve bought the G3 and love it. I’m also considering getting another one
The only downside that I have experienced is being able to get the bottom of it to seal so it doesn’t leak under pressure (arthritis in my hands). I also think that if they were made with a thread on the bottom to be able th screw a 2” tri clamp into would be a vast improvement
Is there not a fitting for a tri clamp, pretty sure I have seen one in the promotional video.
 
Is there not a fitting for a tri clamp, pretty sure I have seen one in the promotional video.
Yes there is but it screws into the bottom seal
I was thinking that a bsp male thread moulded into the bottom and you could then attach any amount of goodies to the bottom For yeast / hop collection. You could also use it for hop injection
I’m being selfish here just thinking of being able to make it leak proof (for my arthritic hands) and also would make cleaning a lot easier
 
I’ve had a few brews where you think you’re done and discover 5 litres of beer in the bottom.
man that has pissed me off to no end. I think I've got it fixed now by using a regular dip tube with the end chopped off - but damn those floating dip tubes are a pain in the ass. Demoralising to see so much waste
 
I've just ordered the floating dip tube filter, hoping that will help with getting the most out and also when doing large dry hopping.
 
man that has pissed me off to no end. I think I've got it fixed now by using a regular dip tube with the end chopped off - but damn those floating dip tubes are a pain in the ass. Demoralising to see so much waste
Yeh well, in the words of Dr "I've just taken my med's" I've got my Hanzs on it, and remembering that this is the Fermzilla thread, according to him it's obviously operator error, but take a look at my FKJ (fermenter king junior from KK) here only as a reference btw, may I suggest that if you have difficulty with a Fermzilla then try an alternative fermenter/keg.
fwiw this keg blew last night, it wasn't shaken, tapped on the side or stirred, and has less than 200ml beer in it.
FKJ Fridge.jpg

FKJ.jpg
 
A narrower vessel like the FKJ is going to have a slight edge, as 1cm height of beer is less volume. So I would expect the FKJ to be very good for this. It does have its own volume limitations though, so up to the user what is best for them.

I use an all rounder, once I'm down to the last 5L or so, I rotate it about 20 degrees or so on the stand, and typically get 2-300ml beer left in there at a stab. How do you end up with 5L of beer still in there?
 
Back
Top