Best you watch the Dr Hans video, clearly two different stands and tanks.
I think that shows they are addressing the problem.Its not a V2, there were some updates made to the Fermzilla around the time the all rounders came out... one update was the top is more rounded to prevent cracking compared to the original units.
I’m sorry you clearly missed the sarcasm in my long winded responses towards people that have no intention of using the product in which this thread is about. I have watched the video several times and at no point did the good doctor make mention of a “v2” in fact if we study the opening scene we can observe the words “Fermzilla v1.?”Best you watch the Dr Hans video, clearly two different stands and tanks.
I assume your comparison of said units will be rigorous, and demand they be delivered full of actively fermenting beer, after which you will post a vid on Youtube extolling the virtues of your latest kit beer whilst guzzling some obscure brew, and prancing around like an excited teenage schoolgirl going on her first date.I’m sorry you clearly missed the sarcasm in my long winded responses towards people that have no intention of using the product in which this thread is about. I have watched the video several times and at no point did the good doctor make mention of a “v2” in fact if we study the opening scene we can observe the words “Fermzilla v1.?”
So with out any clear definition of a “v2” how can one definitively argue that other youtubers (the ones I quoted before) are not using the same unit as shown in the doctors video? They seem to have the same features so I guess one can only assume they are the same. I will attempt to contacted all YouTube party’s involved asking them to send there units in for forensic examination to determine once and for all if they are in fact the same units or not.
I will keep you posted!
I’m sorry you clearly missed the sarcasm in my long winded responses towards people that have no intention of using the product in which this thread is about. I have watched the video several times and at no point did the good doctor make mention of a “v2” in fact if we study the opening scene we can observe the words “Fermzilla v1.?”
So with out any clear definition of a “v2” how can one definitively argue that other youtubers (the ones I quoted before) are not using the same unit as shown in the doctors video? They seem to have the same features so I guess one can only assume they are the same. I will attempt to contacted all YouTube party’s involved asking them to send there units in for forensic examination to determine once and for all if they are in fact the same units or not.
I will keep you posted!
Has anyone got the V2 FermZilla, would love to know how that is performing, the original is sure plagued with problems.
Has anyone got the V2 FermZilla, would love to know how that is performing, the original is sure plagued with problems.
View attachment 118269
I have a 27L fermazilla
8 brews
no issues
You might want to change your user name to something other than your email address.
I've got a Fermentasaurus v.1 37L lost count of the brews through it both atmospheric and pressurised, and absolutely no problems, BUT! the Fermzilla seems to be a different beast, they've undoubtedly tried to improve the v.1 and on the face of it some of the changes may seem like a good idea, reduced volume for less head space (see thoughts) larger opening to facilitate cleaning and redesigned collection bottle/valve with several advantages, unfortunately the "improvements" have led to some unforeseen issues, some have suffered from cracks in the main body, difficulties with the new bigger lid (sealing and then removing) removal and replacement of the bigger valve, and exploding/cracked ports on the collection vessels. Now some of this can be attributed to user error, but it worries me that the same users didn't have these issues with the original, so what exactly is going on here? I note they have changed the shape of the main vessel but not made an announcement to that effect (probably don't want a shtload of returns) will they change the collection bottle? Who knows, but if I were looking at buying one I would definitely wait until they released a v.2 and actually called it that rather than make incremental changes to address issues as they arise without telling anyone.
Just a thought, the collection bottles are brittle unlike PET, so close the valve whilst active and bang, similar effect with the v.1 just not as potentially dangerous because it's PET, but why are the PET bodies exploding? Is it possible that with increasing hopping rates especially during fermentation, and particularly with pellets, that the reduced volume from the v.1 saurus @ 37L to the v.2 zilla @ 27L is increasing the number of PRV's that are getting clogged with hop residue, this would happen at high krausen when the yeast engine is flat out and has the pedal to the metal, it would be a big effort for a 23L brew to hit the PRV in a 37L, but a 27L not so much, and it takes a lot less CO2 to burst a 27L than a 37L, is this an "improvement" that has had unintended consequences? The solution of course is a blow off tube but how do you maintain pressure (if that is the aim) I've posted elsewhere on pressurised blow off tubes/vessels (look at "spunding valve") just make sure you remove the poppet from the post or that will clog as easily as a PRV. But how many newish brewers know about blow off's? Just my thoughts/musings, and I may be barking mad up the wrong tree, but perhaps KL would be better off sending some test units out into the real world into the hands of noobs rather than giggling tossers like Dr Nut Job.
I'm sure this will be seen by some as a baseless attack on KL (looking at you one cell) despite me praising their saurus, it is not, it's just my thoughts on what is a perplexing series of issues with one of their products, and my advice (see wait for v.2) to those seeking to purchase it. I am seriously looking at buying another one (saurus) but unfortunately they've been superseded, the closest thing to the original is KK's v.3, I'm not completely sold on the plunger valve but will keep an open mind, @ $10 the difference the price is irrelevant but 27L v 35L, the smaller opening without the sealing/opening issues, and that small 500ml pet collection bottle ideal for yeast harvesting (I've got 3 of them) I'll stick with a saurus until something better comes along.
Be careful, it looks like you are actually derailing the slanging match into some reasoned thought and discussion
If you want the original Saurus buy a snub nose drill the bottom and buy the kit, works out cheaper.You might want to change your user name to something other than your email address.
I've got a Fermentasaurus v.1 37L lost count of the brews through it both atmospheric and pressurised, and absolutely no problems, BUT! the Fermzilla seems to be a different beast, they've undoubtedly tried to improve the v.1 and on the face of it some of the changes may seem like a good idea, reduced volume for less head space (see thoughts) larger opening to facilitate cleaning and redesigned collection bottle/valve with several advantages, unfortunately the "improvements" have led to some unforeseen issues, some have suffered from cracks in the main body, difficulties with the new bigger lid (sealing and then removing) removal and replacement of the bigger valve, and exploding/cracked ports on the collection vessels. Now some of this can be attributed to user error, but it worries me that the same users didn't have these issues with the original, so what exactly is going on here? I note they have changed the shape of the main vessel but not made an announcement to that effect (probably don't want a shtload of returns) will they change the collection bottle? Who knows, but if I were looking at buying one I would definitely wait until they released a v.2 and actually called it that rather than make incremental changes to address issues as they arise without telling anyone.
Just a thought, the collection bottles are brittle unlike PET, so close the valve whilst active and bang, similar effect with the v.1 just not as potentially dangerous because it's PET, but why are the PET bodies exploding? Is it possible that with increasing hopping rates especially during fermentation, and particularly with pellets, that the reduced volume from the v.1 saurus @ 37L to the v.2 zilla @ 27L is increasing the number of PRV's that are getting clogged with hop residue, this would happen at high krausen when the yeast engine is flat out and has the pedal to the metal, it would be a big effort for a 23L brew to hit the PRV in a 37L, but a 27L not so much, and it takes a lot less CO2 to burst a 27L than a 37L, is this an "improvement" that has had unintended consequences? The solution of course is a blow off tube but how do you maintain pressure (if that is the aim) I've posted elsewhere on pressurised blow off tubes/vessels (look at "spunding valve") just make sure you remove the poppet from the post or that will clog as easily as a PRV. But how many newish brewers know about blow off's? Just my thoughts/musings, and I may be barking mad up the wrong tree, but perhaps KL would be better off sending some test units out into the real world into the hands of noobs rather than giggling tossers like Dr Nut Job.
I'm sure this will be seen by some as a baseless attack on KL (looking at you one cell) despite me praising their saurus, it is not, it's just my thoughts on what is a perplexing series of issues with one of their products, and my advice (see wait for v.2) to those seeking to purchase it. I am seriously looking at buying another one (saurus) but unfortunately they've been superseded, the closest thing to the original is KK's v.3, I'm not completely sold on the plunger valve but will keep an open mind, @ $10 the difference the price is irrelevant but 27L v 35L, the smaller opening without the sealing/opening issues, and that small 500ml pet collection bottle ideal for yeast harvesting (I've got 3 of them) I'll stick with a saurus until something better comes along.
Yep, and how many do you drill before you get it right? I'm no numpty and have every hole saw you can imagine, diamonds included, but that thing is an accident waiting to happen, if you have a fool proof way of doing it please share because I'll bet a pound to a piece of **** I'm not the only one.If you want the original Saurus buy a snub nose drill the bottom and buy the kit, works out cheaper.
Yep, and how many do you drill before you get it right? I'm no numpty and have every hole saw you can imagine, diamonds included, but that thing is an accident waiting to happen, if you have a fool proof way of doing it please share because I'll bet a pound to a piece of **** I'm not the only one.
Early in the release of the snubnose, someone put up a post he bought the 2 for $140 or whatever the deal was, bought the kits for the Fermantasaurus and ended up with a substantial saving of two fermentasauri.Yep, and how many do you drill before you get it right? I'm no numpty and have every hole saw you can imagine, diamonds included, but that thing is an accident waiting to happen, if you have a fool proof way of doing it please share because I'll bet a pound to a piece of **** I'm not the only one.
Now that would be a little tricky, but I will have a crack at it if I can pick up a reject.It is also why it would be interesting to see a video on someone doing it to use the G3 upgrade kit. So far one person has described it but there really isn’t any detail on it.
We do not recommend someone drilling a snubnose unless they are really good with special kit. We use a highly modified tungsten head in a drill press with a holding jig. The gen 3 upgrade kit is for those with the original FS that already have the hole. Basically a Dremel is used to just enlarge the hole by a few millimetres. I think we might already have a short video on this and I will see if we can put that up. The early adopters out there who trialled this seemed to have no problems to get this done in any case.+1 ^ Let's see a video of how easy it is! Pretty please.
I would like to think there may be thousands of happy customers, but looking on the face book sites in the FermZilla user groups there are a lot of unhappy customers, if the V2 is a success all well and good, and I will call it a V2 as surely the biggest difference is in the shape so a new mould must have been made at considerable expense for tooling.You clearly have an agenda here. Kegland have thousands of happy customers. It would be nice if we had a sample size bigger than 2 for KegKing's equivalent, but we don]'t.
Why are you posting screenshots from both an iPhone and an Android phone? Who is feeding you images to post here? Keg King? I smell a rat here and it's obviously a coordinated effort between tweedle-dee, tweedle-dum and CEO Keg King. The constant petty sniping does nothing to help his business or make me want to shop there.
Yeah thanks for the mention.I would like to think there may be thousands of happy customers, but looking on the face book sites in the FermZilla user groups there are a lot of unhappy customers, if the V2 is a success all well and good, and I will call it a V2 as surely the biggest difference is in the shape so a new mould must have been made at considerable expense for tooling.
I expect you are someone who likes conspiracy theories, I get pictures emailed to me I don't care if they are taken with an android iphone or Brownie box.
I am not in cohorts with anyone, I travel around Oz going to machinery auctions and buy and sell. Some to happy customers on this site, best buy so far is a semi auto canning machine sold to Ballarat Guy I think he is more than happy with the price he paid but not with the ability to buy cans, if anyone can help him out I am sure he would appreciate it.
AS your beer is already partially carbonated, try 40PSI and shake the keg for a few minutes. Reduce to 30PSI and leave for about 5 hours. Reduce to serving pressure and an hour or so, pour a beer. If still not enough carb, raise pressure to 30PSI for a few more hours. You will soon get the hang of it. There are online tools for calculating "set and forget" carbonation settings but these are not much use if your beer is already partially carbonated and you want to quickly do a forced carb.I Have a Coopers Draught ready to Keg after being in the Fermzilla for the past 9 days. My first try with the Fermzilla I have managed to keep it at an average temp of 23 Deg and the pressure between 10 and 12 psi. My question is what sort of pressure should I apply to the keg for carbonation. I will chill the keg before the transfer and then leave in the fridge. I do not have room in the fridge for the fermenter.
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