Everyone Should Make This

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make sure in BS that you check the "add after boil" box for anything not in the 10L boil. For a 10L boil you need about 1100g of DME for a SG of 1045, check your boil SG in "preview brewsheet"[has major effect on IBU's]. I would just boil 3L, it's easier to get down to your pitching temp with some ice. Post your .bsm file if you want someone to check it. Cheers
Ah makes much more sense now :)

Don't have any problem getting 10L done to pitch temp but I will go for a smaller boil now I know how to adjust it.

Thanks for that
 
I just had to have a go at this, but changed the hops to Chinook and Hallertau:

2 x 1.5kg LME tins (one tin added at the end of the boil)
200g steeped Caramunich

40g Chinook @ 45mins
20g Chinook @ 30mins
20g Hallertau @ 20mins
20g Hallertau @ 1min

OG 1042

US-05


Two days of bubbling and it smells amazing.

Off to get some ice for the sink now, it's 40oC here and the fermenter just passed 23.

Thinking of splitting into two separate batches for secondary and dry hopping one. Any suggestions?
 
so what you have actually made, is in fact, totally different in almost every possible way from the recipe i posted? Thus not resembling the taste of the original recipe even vaguely? :)
 
so what you have actually made, is in fact, totally different in almost every possible way from the recipe i posted? Thus not resembling the taste of the original recipe even vaguely? :)

whaddya mean, he got the 3kg of goo in there didn't he? :rolleyes:
 
Hey
I'll be making this in the next few days. How and when would I steep the crystal?
Cheers
Chris
 
Hey
I'll be making this in the next few days. How and when would I steep the crystal?
Cheers
Chris

Sit it in a container with hot water for ~30 mins. Before you start your boil, strain the liquid off the grain into the pot. Return the grain to your container and top it back up with more hot water. Strain the liquid into your pot again then you're good to start your boil and start adding hops, etc.

There are a few more complicated nuances that can be applied but that's a good simple way to start using grain.

EDIT: Clarity.
 
thanks bullfrog
how much water and grain would I use. I'll be making a 23L batch from a 5L boil.
 
QUOTE (Neill @ Dec 16 2009, 03:46 PM)
so what you have actually made, is in fact, totally different in almost every possible way from the recipe i posted? Thus not resembling the taste of the original recipe even vaguely? :)


Ok, point made - same same but different.

Bet it still tastes good though B)
 
Cracked a bottle of this today. Been in the bottle since the 28th November, really liking it. Thinking about fiddling with it a little next time I make it by adding a little caramalt, maybe 250g, seeing I've got some sitting around. But as is, it's good.
 
thanks bullfrog
how much water and grain would I use. I'll be making a 23L batch from a 5L boil.

Sorry for the late reply mate, been a bit too busy over the weekend with family to come online.

When I first started steeping grain, I'd weigh out about 150-200g and pop it into a 1L coffee strainer which then had the rest filled up with hot water. A coffee strainer is good because you can just drain right from that.

I tend to do bigger batches of different spec grains now so my coffee strainer is a bit small, but I'd be starting with about those amounts until you know how much of what type of grain you like, etc.

Let us know how you go!
 
+1 on the coffee strainer!

Although, how critical is the temperature control when steeping? I have read that it should be 60 - 70oC for 30 minutes?
 
It's not critical because you're not converting starch to sugar. You can even cold steep overnight. It's best not to go too hot as you can supposedly extract bitter tannins (in early steeping days I had one or too come to the boil briefly with no issue). Maintaining 60 -70 is essentially good practice for mashing base malt if that's where your beer making takes you.
 
my particular method is to get 5L of water in a big pot, bring it to the boil, add 1/3 of a tin of LME (so 500g) to the water, stir it well and when it starts boiling again, start adding the hops. in this case we add 20g of centennial, boil it for 10 mins, then add 40g of amarillo, boil it all for another 10 mins, throw in another 40g of amarillo and boil it for another 10 mins again. turn the heat off, pour the hot liquid through a strainer into the fermenter - you may have to do this in two stages as the hop material will clog the strainer. then add the rest of the LME and dex, mix it all well and top up to 23L with cold water. Wait till it's at 20 degrees then pitch your US05 or Notto.

When you're more confident with this type of brew, steep some cracked crystal grains to add a shade more complexity to the body of the beer.

Just finished one of these brews - bloody beautiful. The hop aroma is fading quickly on this one though - i recommend drinking it at 3 weeks in the bottle and finishing the batch within 8 weeks for full effect.

Not wanting to be a pain in the arse or anything.

what do you recommend in terms of secondary fermentation. I have a batch fermenting away beautifully, (Put it together yesterday) in my fridge at 19 deg. I was intending to bottle when the sg stabilises with the addition of 2 carbonation drops into each 740 ml bottle, and leave for 3 weeks. Is this what you would have advised?

Much appreciated,

Chas
 
yeah or you can rack it to clear it out a bit, won't make much difference to the flavour but i do it anyway for clarity and to re use the yeast cake. Hope ya like it!
 
Just bottled this and my god the aroma was fantastic!!! 3 weeks until the first tasting - can't wait!
 
I am going to give this recipe a go - I wanted to make an amarillo golden ale for my next brew & this one looks like a great place to start.

However, as I am not near a LHBS I will be using the items already in my inventory and readily available at my local IGA :)

As my local IGA has a special on the Tooheys Special Ale kit ($9.50 a tin) I am going to use that as the base malt (2 x 1.7kg tins).
I don't have Centennial hops, so I will use Cascade instead of those, but the Amarillo is definately going in. Also I am presently reculturing some US05 yeast that I harvested from a previous brew.

Instead of straight-up 500gm of Dex, I will use 500gm of Coopers Brewing sugar (which is part Dextose & part Maltodextrin) - and steep some Crystal grains (about 250g).

If I boil up the contents of both tins, what should I bring the boil volume to? and if my 15L stock pot aint big enough for that, should I ditch one tin and use 1kg of Coopers LDME (to add after the boil) instead?

Probably going to do this on the weekend as long as my yeast starter works out ok.
 
Hi Rob, for proper/ consistent/ predictable hops utilisation you want a boil SG of about 1045. You could use 1040 or 1050 I suppose as long as youre consistent so you can adjust bitterness in future. I use 450g of DME in 4litre water to get 1045. A 4L boil is easier to cool to pitching temp[ I use 2-3kg ice]. Thers is no need to boil the cans of goo, just chuck them in the fermenter. I don't know the bitterness of those cans but guess one can would give you around 25IBU so 2 will give you 50, maybe too bitter. Maybe use 1 tin [straight into the fermenter] and aim for an extra 10 ish IBU from your hops adds. Please post how it turns out back here. Cheers
 
sorry rob but it just won't taste right. Your cans of goo will give heaps of bitterness, and the hop boil will add even more. Not to mention the flavour from the isohops in the goo. Your best bet is to order some stuff online or do a big buy next time you're at the shop. You could try 1 tin of goo, and 1.5kg of dme, with some 500g dex, then shorten the hop boil to ditch some of the bitterness. It won't really resemble to original recipe but it should taste okay.
 
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