Everyone Should Make This

[4bc]

Thanks Homebrewer79 & Neill,

I have lots of new info floating around my head, probably didn't word it correctly, was never going to boil the grains, i meant boiled water (had read 70-80deg is optimum temp) but i do thank you for clearly explaining the correct procedure, im sure it will help others just as well as it has helped me. I really appreciate your assistance! Im good to go and look forward to drinking this, im more excited than Big Kev!!

 

[Florian]

yep, the grain prep instructions have definitely helped me, thanks. What about the morgans master blend beer enhancer, will that be alright?

thanks,
Florian

 

[bum]

Does the label tell you what is in it?

 

[Florian]

From the label:
Beer enhancer extra pale malt extract. For use where you desire the lightest coloured beer without affecting the original flavour. Made from a special range of malt extracts. Made from 100% two row malted barley and specifically kettled for excess protein removal, resulting in brighter and clearer beer. From Australia

 

[Neill]

that will be perfect mate, sounds like it's just pale unhopped malt extract, same as the coopers stuff

 

[Florian]

cool, thanks Neill. Just ordered my hops and yeast and some TF chrystal malt grains to add to it. Can't wait...

 

[Hatchy]

I finally got around to emptying a fermenter so I could get this going today, I had to use galaxy as LHBS doesn't have centennial. Has anyone dry hopped this recipe? I've got 160g more amarillos that are desperate to get wet.

 

[Neill]

doesn't need dry hopping IMHO. it will just get too resiny - it's already borderline. but if you're a real hop nut then go for it?

 

[Hatchy]

I spoke to a mate yesterday who suggested having a taste out of the fermenter to see if it needs more hops. I reckon there's about an 80% chance I'll end up dry hopping, I just can't seem to get enough hoppy goodness these days.

 

[Siborg]

Hey Neil

Good read. I'm gonna have to go and try this. When you say coopers LME (pale), do you mean the coopers international Australian pale ale?

Could I go 1 can of that with a can of coopers premium wheat, or just stick with the 2 pale kits? I'll probably steep 400g or so of carapils as well for a 23L batch.

It'll be good to try a brew with something other than US05!

 

[Marchaos]

Siborg,

You use the unhopped light liquid malt extract cans for this recipe.

Cheers.

 

[Adam Howard]

I'm quite keen on making an APA as my next brew.

I used the Kit and Extract Designer to plug in a similar recipe to yours Neill but I will use one tin each of amber and light LME and also steep some Carared to bump up the EBC. I also have 500g Dex and 200g of Maltodex in the recipe and a slightly reduced hop profile.

Have to wait till I have the new homebrew shed operational until I can put it down though unfortunately as my current brewing room is our old bathroom and upcoming renovations are going to involve 'changing' that area :angry:

 

[Hatchy]

You can't find room for a fermenter? You really need those renovations done.

 

[[email protected]]

Howaya lads, i have this one fermenting away @ 18deg in the fridge and the aroma when you open the fridge door is only bleedin amazing. just one last question though. I have followed this one EXACTLY so far, now i want to bulk prime it. My last brew was also bulk primed but turned out just slightly under carbed. This is a 23L batch. Which sugar and how much does anyone who's already done this recommend?
Nice one,
Rob


Ps: Will be racking and cc'ing for a few days first, but will need to pick up supplies soon.

 

[bum]

Same sugar as whatever you used last time just more of it.

What'd you do last time, in what volume and how much more carbed would you like it?

 

[Siborg]

Hey
I did my first bulk prime last week. I was pointed to this website:
Bulk Priming Calculator
Aim for 2.5-2.9 volumes, depending on style and taste preference. Use corn sugar/dextrose/glucose, its 100% fermentable and doesn't leave any residual sugars behind.

 

[[email protected]]

Same sugar as whatever you used last time just more of it.

What'd you do last time, in what volume and how much more carbed would you like it?

Just disolved about 150g of dex in about 300ml of hot water. poured it into fermenter and then botled about 30 or 40 minutes later. for some reason it just hasnt carbed up to where i'd like it to be. Brew was a Hoegaarden clone with coopers wheat can, wheat malt extract, 23 litres fermented at 20 -22. I racked it too, could that have left too little yeast to do the job? Anyway, thats all the info i can think of.

 

[Bomber1975]

Hey Guys I am back from my 4 weeks away and decided to put down on of Neils beers. One drama though that I had today I thought that my saucepan would hold 6 litres of water. It only held 4 litres. I followed everything else from the recipe but only used four litres for my boil. Will this effect anything? Ohh I tell a lie I used 50gms of Amarillo on both boil times as I had a 100 gm bag and wasn't sure how long it would keep in the fridge. Especially with such a small amount. So what I am saying is have I wrecked this tried and true recipe???

 

[bum]

When you say "water" (he asks, not sure he wants to hear the answer) do you mean water or wort? What I mean is did you boil the hops in straight water or 1040-ish wort?

If straight water your bitterness will be significantly higher than the original recipe. Call it an IPA if it is and it won't be ruined - just not what you expected (or what is considered ideal).

 

[kelbygreen]

yeah as bum said if you done 4lt boil you should of used about 475g of LME or 395 of DME. The extra hops would up the IBU its best to use something to calculate them without knowing the AA% of the hops and the amount you used its hard to know.

I done this again but used the base recipe and some left over hops.

Ingredient is:

2.5kg LDME
.5 dextrose
15g centennial 7.2% @ 30min
6g cascade 7.8% @ 30min
27g amarillo 8.3% @ 20min
27g amarillo 8.3% @10min

5lt boil with 500g of LDME

with 23lt batch turned out 1.052 OG and almost 31%IBU

 

[Bomber1975]

When you say "water" (he asks, not sure he wants to hear the answer) do you mean water or wort? What I mean is did you boil the hops in straight water or 1040-ish wort?

If straight water your bitterness will be significantly higher than the original recipe. Call it an IPA if it is and it won't be ruined - just not what you expected (or what is considered ideal).

Sorry yeah I added the LME into the boil as per the recipe ( although yet again I think I was a bit heavy handed ) OG ended out being 1044

Sorry Neil I really shouldn't be posting this in your topic as I seem to have totally gone off the rails in my attempt to follow your recipe

 

[Hatchy]

I've boiled hops in water before I learnt that they should be boiled in wort & I made beer. I now boil my hops in wort but I'd still say that boiling some hops in water is better than using a can with no hop additions.

 

[bum]

Bomber, 1044 sounds fine to me. Certainly won't ruin your beer. I think some people report usually aiming for 1045 so I very much doubt you'll have any negative effects. Utilisation may be slightly lower but you've got larger additions so you'll still be in front.

As for sticking to Neill's recipe - you're a lot closer than many in this thread and he didn't seem too upset about them.

Let us know how it turns out.

 

[toojays]

I made a version of this on Good Friday as:

200g Caraamber + 100g Caraaroma steeped
3 kg LDME (400g in 5L boil)
20g Centential (9.7% AA) @ 30 min
40g Amarillo (8.6% AA) @ 20 min
40g Amarillo (8.6% AA) @ 10 min
15g Amarillo (8.6% AA) @ 0 min (figured I might as well chuck in the leftover hops)
Danstar Nottingham yeast.

OG 1052
Estimated FG from QBrew is 1013.

Just had a sample from the fermenter today, SG is 1022. It smells gorgeous, but tastes a bit more bitter than I would like. It tastes like an IPA right now.

Hopefully that mellows over time, without losing too much hop flavour. Although isn't the reality that it will taste more bitter once some of the remaining sweetness from the malt is converted into alcohol? And given time in the bottle, it'll lose some aroma, but keep the bitterness? If only it was the other way around :S

 

[Neill]

you might get too much bitterness if you do a larger hop boil than i have. because i only do a 4 or 5L boil, the hop utilisation is lower than if you did a 10 or 15L boil. basically if your boil volume is higher then you will get much more bitterness out of it - hence i recommend adjusting the hop schedule as needed with your boil size and aiming for 30-35IBU, otherwise as mentioned it can get too bitter. I did a second brew of this a few months back and it used a bigger boil of just 5L (original boil volume was 3L) and it was a bit too bitter for my liking. so keep that in mind!

edit: also your AA% may vary compared to my original one - your best bet is to plug the numbers into beersmith or whatever and aim for 30-15 IBU and adjust the hop schedule accordingly (within reason)

 

[Hatchy]

This turned out ok for me. It's still pretty young (10 days in bottles). I'll put a few away for a couple of months & I'm sure they'll be way better. If I did this brew again I'd dry hop some amarillo for some more aroma. Personal preferance obviously.

 

[bullfrog]

This turned out ok for me. It's still pretty young (10 days in bottles). I'll put a few away for a couple of months & I'm sure they'll be way better. If I did this brew again I'd dry hop some amarillo for some more aroma. Personal preferance obviously.

Call me crazy, but I'm of the mind that a hoppy APA-style beer, much the same as a wheat, should be drunk pretty green. Most of my APAs are cracked at two weeks and completely gone by week 5 or 6.

EDIT: Clarity.

 

[Hatchy]

Call me crazy (or just wrong) but I thought that was more for dry hopped beers. I certainly went with that policy for my DSGA. "Quick, drink all the beer before it loses it's aroma!"

If this is meant to be drunk young then I'm happy to do that. I'll go put a couple of stubbies in the fridge now, just to be safe.

 

[kelbygreen]

I found it got alot better at around 4 weeks in the bottle. it was to bitter for me but I also found that I done no chill and both beers I done no chill was more bitter then ones I have done after with cooling it quickly, also there was less flavours on the no chill. might just be me or the change in brewing gear but thats what I found lol

 

[Aus_Rider_22]

I still fail to realise why people who don't do secondary (me) think a beer should be drank before 3 weeks? In my experience, which is still fairly limited, beers are hitting their prime 3-8 weeks in. I have read that wheat beers are best drunk green, but IMO if you are drinking them inside 3-4 weeks just for aroma then you should just increase your dry hopping amounts 3 or 4 fold. I wish I could drink my beer within a few weeks out of the fermenter but it just doesn't taste as good as a month or more aged beer! I am still a real amateur that has only been kegging for just over 2 months but after kegging and drinking a LCBA clone for weeks and then drinking a bottled beer that was 2 months old I could tell a fair difference. I know many disagree and will debate this but the longer the better!