Erlenmeyer flasks

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My wife got stung by a bee playing golf. I had to rush her to hospital. When the doctor asked where she was stung I said between the first and second hole.
"Her stance is too wide." he said.
 
Looks like they've pulled all glassware from the site except for one small acid bottle... damn it!
 
If you want cheapies Kegking have 1l, 3l and 5l for bargain prices. Quality is ok. A few tiny air bubbles but I still have all my originals and heat them on a butane stove straight into cold water.
I see Full pint have some quality German ones now. Haven't got one but hey they're German therefore must be awesome (some affiliation due to heritage).
 
Camo6 said:
If you want cheapies Kegking have 1l, 3l and 5l for bargain prices. Quality is ok. A few tiny air bubbles but I still have all my originals and heat them on a butane stove straight into cold water.
I see Full pint have some quality German ones now. Haven't got one but hey they're German therefore must be awesome (some affiliation due to heritage).
Cheers Camo, yeah we're stocking Schott Duran (GER) flasks. 500ml, 1 Litre, 2 Litre, 3 Litre and 5 Litre.
More products to arrive later this week.
 
just got a few replacements and additions today as I seem to be doing loads of yeast stuff lately..

now, Im going to need a lab coat

Flasks.JPG
 
Where'd those wide mouths come from they look perfect for adding dme without a sticky awful mess!
 
Just bought my first flask today. Got the starter going now. Brew tomorrow. Excited !

Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk
 
DJ_L3ThAL said:
Where'd those wide mouths come from they look perfect for adding dme without a sticky awful mess!
is there any rule to state that you have to put the DME in after the water or after it starts boiling? I was having the sticky mess and decided to start putting in while the water was cold, no sticky mess! Never looked back after that...
 
Always cold water added to the dme, agree

I think he's referring to getting the dme in there But there is no reason why it can't be added to a jug and then made Liquefied then added to the flask. Alternatively only cut a corner off the bag big enough to fit in the flask, no mess and easy to weigh directly in the flask
 
boil malt in saucepan water in flask reduces risk of boil over in the flask.
 
if you have the malt diluted in say 200ml of cold water and add 1.7 liters of boiling water from the kettle, (added to the kettle from one of many 3lt milk bottles of sterile water) it only takes a few minutes to get to boil on the stove, just enough time to add the yeast nutrient and pack up the scales..

haven't had a boil over since I started to do it like this. which is keeping SWMBO (as a term of endearment Shaun) a bit happier about me constantly doing yeast stuff in the kitchen.. sticky stovetops they do not like ;)
 
Fermcap has kept me out of trouble too
 
DJ_L3ThAL said:
Whats the antifoam made of?
Hop oil/resins. I use a couple of drops from a syringe that I bought at my LHBS. Just sit the syringe in a cup of boiled water first, to melt the hop resin.

Not effective if you start the boil and then add yeast nutrient. Stored in the memory bank now.
 
DJ_L3ThAL said:
Whats the antifoam made of?
Dimethylpolysiloxane, a form of silicon, aka dimethicone

Fermcap S
Is a unique emulsion of an extremely effective surface active agent Dimethylpolysiloxane which prevents foam formation by reducing surface tension. It is used to control foam in kettle and during fermentation. It is completely removed from the beer after fermentation by the yeast and filtration. As a result of preserving hydrophobic beer proteins in solution it actually improves beer foam retention in the finished beer.
25 kg/55 pounds


MSDS: http://www.williamsbrewing.com/assets/pdfs/A12.pdf
 

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