Do I Realy Need A Wort Chiller

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Robbo2234

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Hi Brewers.

I am SLOWLY setting up for biab, after my hop additions can I just pour the hot wort into a FV and stick it in the fridge, wait for it to cool and pitch my yeast?

also any one know what sort of wattage I would be looking at for a element to boil a 50lt keggle?

Thanks
 
Have a search for nochill. Heaps of guys fill a 20L drum full of wort and let it cool down slowly. The hot wort kills any bugs so the wort can be kept for ages.
 
look into no chill. I had heaps of doubts about it but I am no chilling now and its great. I brew doubles and just put into cubes. If I want to put a batch on straight away let it cool over night in the cube then tip it into the fermenter the next day when its cooled down.

Your fridge will hate you for putting 20+lts of 80 deg liquid in there and expect it to cool down you will prob blow the fridge up and electricity bill will be high.

for the element well I dont use electric but 2400w I think is the go I think (dont quote me on it) 3600w and over needs 15amp circuitry even putting 2 x 2400w you will have to run them on separate lines
 
....any one know what sort of wattage I would be looking at for a element to boil a 50lt keggle?

yeah, a really big one. 2200/2400 minimum i reckon.

i use 2 X 2200's that i got out of two kitchen kettles cheap from kmart. $9 each for the kettle. A little bit of dismantling, some drilling, easy as.

Gets my 50lt keggle going easy enough, but the power is a bit of a drain on the supply from the fuse box. Can't have the clothes dryer or the inside heater fan going when i'm ramping my strike and sparge waters....

Have had a look in the fuse box on the circuit that does trip every once in a while and it says 16A on it. I think most household circuits are 10A aren't they??
 
Yep, nochill is great for some instances. It also means that if you have free time you can make up a few batches for reserves, and ferment whenever you wish, if you get busy.

Also much less water wastage (may or may not be true in my house)
 
I boil vigourously so that I'm 4+ litres under my final volume by the end of the boil. I then add two 2Litre frozen blocks of pre boiled water to the keggle (I do two 13l boils in a 19l pot). Once cool I siphon to the fementer and place it in the bath for further cooling if needed. In most cases I've cooled the wort to pitching temps within 20 to 30min so I've held off on the chiller for nearly two years. I will get one eventually, but it's probably end up being more effort than the ice.

Hirns.
 
I did a 15L high gravity BAIB batch on the weekend and chilled it this way.

I filled a fermenter full of water and stuck it in my fridge to 0C, plus stuck all my freezer bricks in the freezer.

At flamout, I poured half the icy cold water from fementer into a 55L esky and put my pot full of the hot wort into it.

After 5min I took the pot out, emptied the now warm water and put the other half of the cold water in along with the warm pot of wort and my ice bricks.

After ~20min (I can't remember exactly) I stuck the thermometer in the wort and found it was sitting at 24C and very clear (I used whirlfloc). I siphoned the wort to the fermenter, pitched some W34/70 slurry and stuck it in my fermenting fridge. I did have a fish pond pump handy (use it on my flooded font for parties) and I used it to circulate the cooling water around the esky to maximise the effect of the ice bricks. (being a physicist I could have calculated the exact time to cool but I can't be bothered)

This may not work so well on a big batch since you need more ice or cold water, plus there is the risks of carrying a big pot of boiling hot sticky liquid
 
I don't have a chiller and I don't cube.

Once my boil is over I pop the lid on my kettle (40L AL pot), spray a bunch of iodophore around the edge then I wrap the seal in cling wrap.

I stand my kettle in a bath full of cold water, after half an hour I give it a stir and drop in 5 or 6 frozen milk bottles. After about 90 minutes the wort is down to ambient. I still get good hop presence from late additions using this method though I will dry hop if I want more hop aroma.

I'm too stingy to fork out for a chiller :)
 
yeah, a really big one. 2200/2400 minimum i reckon.

i use 2 X 2200's that i got out of two kitchen kettles cheap from kmart. $9 each for the kettle. A little bit of dismantling, some drilling, easy as.

Gets my 50lt keggle going easy enough, but the power is a bit of a drain on the supply from the fuse box. Can't have the clothes dryer or the inside heater fan going when i'm ramping my strike and sparge waters....

Have had a look in the fuse box on the circuit that does trip every once in a while and it says 16A on it. I think most household circuits are 10A aren't they??

2 x 2200 adds up to 18.33 amps.
 
I do small batches in a 19L pot . After boiling the wort, it gets down to about 15L, I pour in 4 L of cold pre-boiled water, and drop the whole thing in the laundry tub filled with cold water and few plastic bottles filled with ice. The temp drops to 20C in about 30 minutes, just as I prepare the fermenter. Sometimes I forget to pre-boil, and got away with it (no infection).
 
2 x 2200 adds up to 18.33 amps.

not to take this too far off topic, but how is it possible for me to run my keggle at all? On the same circuit i run:

2 x fridges
a tv, dvd player, ipod dock, a set top box, a computer, a small bedside light.

Both of the keggle elements, and a small "brown" pump to recirculate my HLT and transfer to Mash tun.

Oh, and a drill for my milling station.

The shed is detached from the house, but if the clothes dryer or the inside heater fan kick on, then it trips the circuit breaker. When i go to flip it up to "ON" again, it's only one breaker that has tripped.....

I am not an electrician, and have no experience with fuses and house wiring and it's limitations. Therefore i don't understand how i can run all this crap without it tripping more often than it does. (maybe once every couple of brewdays...)

sorry for the slightly off topic, but the info i hopefully get back may also help the OP.
 
no worries nath, I was thinking that i would have to run a extra circuit just for the keggle!
 
not to take this too far off topic, but how is it possible for me to run my keggle at all? On the same circuit i run:

2 x fridges
a tv, dvd player, ipod dock, a set top box, a computer, a small bedside light.

Both of the keggle elements, and a small "brown" pump to recirculate my HLT and transfer to Mash tun.

Oh, and a drill for my milling station.

The shed is detached from the house, but if the clothes dryer or the inside heater fan kick on, then it trips the circuit breaker. When i go to flip it up to "ON" again, it's only one breaker that has tripped.....

I am not an electrician, and have no experience with fuses and house wiring and it's limitations. Therefore i don't understand how i can run all this crap without it tripping more often than it does. (maybe once every couple of brewdays...)

sorry for the slightly off topic, but the info i hopefully get back may also help the OP.
Running items from the same circuit and running them from the same GPO are quite different.

I had a sparky into my shed to wire in a new 15 amp circuit and he just put a 15A GPO into the 10A circuit. Fecker. I am led to believe that this circuit is rated to 32A in my case.

It is my belief that most wiring to GPO's is rated to about 22A or more but the 10A GPO's don't like to be loaded up with powerboards etc. Apart from the larger ground pin on a 15A GPO the components inside it are more robust than a 10A GPO.

Perhaps the assumption Jayse made was that you were running both 2,200w elements from the same 10A GPO? I don't think that would be good, i'd run two extension leads from seperate 10A GPO's. It wouldn't draw more than the wiring could handle and won't draw more than 10A from each GPO.
Sounds like you have exceeded the total amps for the circuit but maybe not the draw through an individual GPO. Point being is don't pull it all through one GPO. It seems like most circuits would trip if you had everything running at once, they just gamble on you not actually doing that.

Would like a sparky to fill in my misconceptions/blank spots.
 
definatly No Chill FTW!

i have an 80lt pot and only run 1 x 2400w element. i can only do single batches though.
 
not to take this too far off topic, but how is it possible for me to run my keggle at all? On the same circuit i run:

2 x fridges
a tv, dvd player, ipod dock, a set top box, a computer, a small bedside light.

Both of the keggle elements, and a small "brown" pump to recirculate my HLT and transfer to Mash tun.

Oh, and a drill for my milling station.

The shed is detached from the house, but if the clothes dryer or the inside heater fan kick on, then it trips the circuit breaker. When i go to flip it up to "ON" again, it's only one breaker that has tripped.....

I am not an electrician, and have no experience with fuses and house wiring and it's limitations. Therefore i don't understand how i can run all this crap without it tripping more often than it does. (maybe once every couple of brewdays...)

sorry for the slightly off topic, but the info i hopefully get back may also help the OP.

18A on a 16A breaker is not that unreasonable and infact happens quite a bit. Its no different to ironing and boiling the kettle to make a cup of tea at the same time, although that would be slightly higher current draw.

18A total current draw is based on a perfect 240v supply, when in reality it varies +/- 10% either way depending on how far you are from the supply transofrmer and a few other things. Also, these CB's are designed to take 16A (for example) at 100% duty cycle, meaning all the time without backing off. They will take more current than what they are rated for, for a period of time that is very non-linear, that is, start to draw more than the current rating, and the amount of time they can function before tripping decreases quickly

All of the things you listed wouldn't be running at any one time. Yes, the two kettle elements would, but you probably wont be operating 2 x fridges
a tv, dvd player, ipod dock, a set top box, a computer, a small bedside light, drill and pump all at once. Its a matter of duty cycle.

Of course, if you're running the circuit that tight and the dryer kicks in, then yeah, it will trip...

If the shed is detached from the house and trips a CB that is running appliances on it inside your house, it hasn't been wired correctly. It means the feed for the shed was paralleled or piggy backed off of a socket outlet inside your house. Dodgy as.


Running items from the same circuit and running them from the same GPO are quite different.

I had a sparky into my shed to wire in a new 15 amp circuit and he just put a 15A GPO into the 10A circuit. Fecker. I am led to believe that this circuit is rated to 32A in my case.

It is my belief that most wiring to GPO's is rated to about 22A or more but the 10A GPO's don't like to be loaded up with powerboards etc. Apart from the larger ground pin on a 15A GPO the components inside it are more robust than a 10A GPO.

Perhaps the assumption Jayse made was that you were running both 2,200w elements from the same 10A GPO? I don't think that would be good, i'd run two extension leads from seperate 10A GPO's. It wouldn't draw more than the wiring could handle and won't draw more than 10A from each GPO.
Sounds like you have exceeded the total amps for the circuit but maybe not the draw through an individual GPO. Point being is don't pull it all through one GPO. It seems like most circuits would trip if you had everything running at once, they just gamble on you not actually doing that.

Would like a sparky to fill in my misconceptions/blank spots.

I'll try

Running items off of one socket outlet (GPO) or spread out across a single circuit doesn't make much of a difference. Standard Clipsal outlets will easily handle 20A through the mechanics of the outlet. The switch mech (depending on the load) will fail miserably though.

Check that the sparky who wired your shed is licensed... If he has attached a 15A socket outlet onto a 10A circuit, then he has connected it to the light circuit! If you mean, he's just taken a loop off the back of a GPO that's already in your shed, then that is also wrong! 15A circuit breakers need dedicated circuits, with atleast a 20A breaker.

You also refer to the circuit being rated to 32A. I suspect that'd be the sub-mains out to the shed. He most likely fed the shed with 6mm2 Twin and E, protected by a 32A CB. He is correct, it can in theory, supply 32A to your shed. All the lazy fucker needed to do, was install a dedicated CB at the sub-board in your shed, and run a feed to the said outlet...

Wiring to GPO's using 2.5mm2 conductors (minimum size) are rated much higher than the breaker. Somewhere around 22-23A like you said is correct, but the idea of putting a smaller CB on there is to protect the cable from heating up, melting, wires touching and burning the house down


;)
 
No chill is great. I leave all my cubes to cool to ambient on the garage floor, though there's no reason you can't dump them in the sink/pool. Just make sure they're well cleaned and sanitised, and fill them hot.
 
Probably don't even need to sanitize, just make sure they are clean, the hot wort will kill any nasties that
Might be in the cube..
Thats the way I've done it and no chilled about 50 brews with no probs =)
 
Probably don't even need to sanitize, just make sure they are clean, the hot wort will kill any nasties that
Might be in the cube..
Thats the way I've done it and no chilled about 50 brews with no probs =)

I'm quoting Beerswiller for context, not to single him out as an unsanitary brewer or for some other unfriendly purpose.

The war against beer-ruining nasties is basically a numbers game. In your fermenter you are trying to create an environment that is perfect for a whole range of things to live and multiply, but you only want one particular type of thing to do so. Chances are that pasteurisation inside the cube will kill off nearly all of the nasties inside the cube, but for just a few cents and a minute or so of your time, you can improve the chances of doing so quite significantly.

If you throw some sanitiser into your cube and leave it there for a while before draining and then decanting your wort into it, you have just improved your chances of getting good beer. And it cost you next to nothing. Belt and braces.

Even **I** am not so lazy that this is too much effort.
 
I'm quoting Beerswiller for context, not to single him out as an unsanitary brewer or for some other unfriendly purpose.

The war against beer-ruining nasties is basically a numbers game. In your fermenter you are trying to create an environment that is perfect for a whole range of things to live and multiply, but you only want one particular type of thing to do so. Chances are that pasteurisation inside the cube will kill off nearly all of the nasties inside the cube, but for just a few cents and a minute or so of your time, you can improve the chances of doing so quite significantly.

If you throw some sanitiser into your cube and leave it there for a while before draining and then decanting your wort into it, you have just improved your chances of getting good beer. And it cost you next to nothing. Belt and braces.

Even **I** am not so lazy that this is too much effort.

I leave a L or 2 of sanitiser in the cube at all times after cleaning it. When it is nearly time to drain wort into it, i give the cube a shake and then tip out the excess sanitiser in to a fermenter i use to keep sanitiser on hand.

Two mins later i am draining wort into cube.

If you are cleaning the cube anyway after use then it is a good time then to add the sanitiser (once clean) and then you can store it and it will be ready to go with a min of fuss on brew day.

Cheers,
D80
 
As a total my brewing process takes a fair amount of time and effort so for the sake of sanitizing a cube, the effort would be nil, I was just under the presumption that the hot sort would pasturise the vessel and since I've never had an infection and other brewers have noted the same practice, I thought sanitizing before pasturising was a unrequired step.... Even if it does only take a few minutes..... Definitely not a process skipped through laziness though.
 

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