Dedicated Herms Guide, Problems And Solution Thread

[Mzungu]

Gday, I have got a rex c100 PID and a Fotek 40amp ssr (setting up a cheap hex). Now I cant get the PID to switch the ssr, the PID 'out' light clicks on but the ssr light doesn't come on and obviously no power to the Kmart jug. I have wired it all up and switched the DC +/- in case I got it the wrong way(like I did the Temp probe). I've hit it with a hacked up 12V 1amp charger to test the ssr, which works fine and runs the jug. My question is, can the c100 switch a 40amp ssr? which would mean mine is busted or do I just need a 10amp or 25amp ssr?

Cheers!

 

[QldKev]

post a pic of the wiring, and a link to the source of the rex

 

[Camo6]

a link that indicates the PID might be designed for mechanical relay output.

 

[boybrewer]

If you purchased the REX PID online from China they don't work . FYI I have a PID with a 40 AMP SSR and it works a treat .

 

[Mzungu]

a link that indicates the PID might be designed for mechanical relay output.

Thanks Camo6, vid explains alot and makes it work. But it seems you get what you pay for, what PID would you guys recomend

 

[Camo6]

I've been putting off an order with Auber Instruments for a while now due to re-allocated funds, delivery costs and the weak Aussie dollar. The SYL-2352 and SYL-2352P seem to be the most popular choices.

Other options include AHB suppliers like brewrig.com.au who have some competitive prices and a range of controller accessories.

I'm slowly snagging bits and pieces here and there off ebay to offset the costs of my own build, so if you find some super deals let us know.

 

[QldKev]

Thanks Camo6, vid explains alot and makes it work. But it seems you get what you pay for, what PID would you guys recomend

without knowing exactly which model you have we don't know, and since you choose to ignore my questions... I'm not offering YOU any more assistance.

 

[Camo6]

Don't be too harsh Kev. Anyone who knows you would be a fool to ignore your advice. You're posts have helped me on numerous occasions and I've frequented your site a fair few times.
I reckon I lurked on this site for a good couple of years because I was reluctant to invoke resentment due to the mysteries of forum etiquette. Thank God that's all behind me!

 

[Mzungu]

without knowing exactly which model you have we don't know, and since you choose to ignore my questions... I'm not offering YOU any more assistance.

Sorry mate no hard feelings, I got rather excited and carried away with Camo6's video link. Here is a pic of the REX-C100 FK02*M*AN, just ignore the shabby wiring:

It did end up working by following the video instructions.

I've been putting off an order with Auber Instruments for a while now due to re-allocated funds, delivery costs and the weak Aussie dollar. The SYL-2352 and SYL-2352P seem to be the most popular choices.

Other options include AHB suppliers like brewrig.com.au who have some competitive prices and a range of controller accessories.

I'm slowly snagging bits and pieces here and there off ebay to offset the costs of my own build, so if you find some super deals let us know.

Cheers, I might just skip the c100 and get SYL-2352.

 

[QldKev]

Don't be too harsh Kev. Anyone who knows you would be a fool to ignore your advice. You're posts have helped me on numerous occasions and I've frequented your site a fair few times.
I reckon I lurked on this site for a good couple of years because I was reluctant to invoke resentment due to the mysteries of forum etiquette. Thank God that's all behind me!

Hopefully I come across as more a good guy than a bad one. Most people will agree I'll try my best to help anyone (hopefully). I've gained a lot of knowledge from this site and am happy to give it all back.

Sorry mate no hard feelings, I got rather excited and carried away with Camo6's video link. Here is a pic of the REX-C100 FK02*M*AN, just ignore the shabby wiring:

<<pic removed>>

It did end up working by following the video instructions.

Cheers, I might just skip the c100 and get SYL-2352.

There are 2 models of the rex, a relay driven and a SSR output version. It's the same for the Sestos (talk about soon) and also the Auber. As above you have a link to the Auber SSR version. A relay version switches a given feed, and a SSR one produces a 12vdc output.

You can use the existing Rex (assuming the relay version, if it was the correct SSR version we would not be having this chat) to switch a SSR. Just run a 12vdc feed via the rex's internal relay and it will work with a SSR ok. The issue is the pid will only switch at a relay speed. Not so good for a HERMS/RIMS as it means a slower switching speed. It will work, but just not the perfect world. If you do that mod in the video you do have an unknown feed potential and may exceed the potential of the device.

If you get a true SSR version of a pid it will switch off/on a lot faster (we are talking ms times to pulse the element). The rex is not my preferred choice. The auber are awesome and are the top end. There is a Sestos pid in the gap. Since you are not looking at a programmable pid the Sestos are a great unit to consider, I run 2 in one of my control panels. They do come in both relay and SSR versions.
D1S-2R-220 so basically what you have a relay version - no good
D1S-CR-220 version which works on current - ignore this for what we need
D1S-VR-220 so basically a voltage driven version for a typical SSR, which is what you need. First link I found, you may find a better price.

also make sure you are looking at a 220 version and not a 12 / 24v version. Note the last digits in the model number.


... any info given here is to discuss with your electrician and not for home wiring jobs.

 

[Mzungu]

Thanks for the info QldKev, I will look further into PIDs

 

[gava]

Not sure if this has come up but does has anyone notice if there is any difference when you put your pump connector at the bottom of your HERMS coil pushing the wort up around the herm v's the top using gravity "pulling" the wort down the coil? Or is there not enough head pressure to make any difference?

-Gav

 

[Truman42]

Not sure if this has come up but does has anyone notice if there is any difference when you put your pump connector at the bottom of your HERMS coil pushing the wort up around the herm v's the top using gravity "pulling" the wort down the coil? Or is there not enough head pressure to make any difference?

-Gav

Your pump should be before your herms pushing the wort through the coil. If you put your pump on the otherside of your herms and pull the wort through you risk stallin your pump and/ or it cavitating etc.

My pump is at the very bottom of my brew stand. All vessels gravity feed into the pump and is then pushed back up into the herms or kettle.

Also.. (And you may already know this) make sure your wort inlet is connected to the part that goes into the hex coil and straight to the bottom then spirals around and back out. I originaly had it connected the other way and the pump was trying to push air bubbles through all the coils and the resistance and extra length slowed and stopped the pump (Using LBP at the time) so I couldnt get it started.
When you do it the other way the air bubbles will rise up through the coils easily making priming your system much easier.

 

[QldKev]

As Truman said, all back pressure on mag pumps (March, Kaixin) must be post pump. Never allow any mag drive pump to pull wort. This includes if you want to reduce flow via a ball valve, always on the return line.

 

[Camo6]

Pumping from the bottom will make it easier to purge air from the system.

 

[gava]

Your pump should be before your herms pushing the wort through the coil. If you put your pump on the otherside of your herms and pull the wort through you risk stallin your pump and/ or it cavitating etc.

My pump is at the very bottom of my brew stand. All vessels gravity feed into the pump and is then pushed back up into the herms or kettle.

Also.. (And you may already know this) make sure your wort inlet is connected to the part that goes into the hex coil and straight to the bottom then spirals around and back out. I originaly had it connected the other way and the pump was trying to push air bubbles through all the coils and the resistance and extra length slowed and stopped the pump (Using LBP at the time) so I couldnt get it started.
When you do it the other way the air bubbles will rise up through the coils easily making priming your system much easier.

I think i phrased it wrong.... I know you need to push the wort into the HERMS from a lower position, my question was about which INLET of the HERMS to connect to which you answered in your second part.
Cheers

-Gav

 

[TheWiggman]

In saying that... do people here find the Kaixin pumps (MP-15) struggle to pump through the HERM-IT coil? Mine pumps ok, but there's no need to throttle flow during a mash. If the coil was much longer I think they wouldn't be good enough for the job.

 

[Rieewoldt]

Hi fellas

I am currently planning a 3v herms system, based on the electric brewery. Main differences I will just have the 1 PID for mash temp control, and I'm going to use my mongolian burner on the boil kettle.

My query is this - The electric brewery has their RTD on the mash tun suction ball valve, I was considering moving this to the HLT Hex discharge, that way the element in the kettle is working directly to maintain mash temp - it will see that the mash temp is low and heat the HLT accordingly instead of perhaps having a differential between HLT temp and the returning wort. It will also mean that the returning wort has less opportunity to cool before re-entering the MT.

Am I missing something here?

 

[TheWiggman]

I can't speak for the electric brewery, but the consensus here is that you take the measurement from the point where the wort will be hottest. That is of course out of you heat exchanger.
It reduces the real of overshoot for one, and the second reason is to do with the actual enzymatic activity going on in the wort itself. Check out posts in the first few pages of this thread.

 

[Rieewoldt]

I can't speak for the electric brewery, but the consensus here is that you take the measurement from the point where the wort will be hottest. That is of course out of you heat exchanger.
It reduces the real of overshoot for one, and the second reason is to do with the actual enzymatic activity going on in the wort itself. Check out posts in the first few pages of this thread.

That makes sense. You want to know that the temp is most accurate where all the action is.