Dano's All Grain Feral Hop Hog Clone

[purple-lazy]

Last night I racked the beer into a secondary fermenter to get it out of contact with the dry hops (25g/25g/25g) that I'd added directly to the fermenter. It had been in contact for 4 days at ~23 degrees and 1 day about ~3 degrees.

I also had a lot of trub, yeast and hop matter in the bottom of the fermenter that I wanted to get it clear from, in order to get the most benefit (clarity wise) from cold conditioning before bottling.

Samples are starting to taste better now there's not as much hop matter (and trub/yeast etc) suspended in the beer, however it doesn't have that real in your face hop aroma or flavour that Hop Hog or other IPAs have.

I was wondering if this could be due to the relatively low level of carbonation at the moment, not releasing the hop aromas from the beer?

The hop aroma could also be masked a bit by the fruity aroma of the yeast I used, Wyeast 1099 Whitbread Ale. I probably should have gone with a more neutral yeast.

I'm considering adding more dry hops (in a bag this time) to the secondary while cold conditioning until bottling in 5 days or so. It probably couldn't hurt right? Unless I can expect a massive increase in hop aroma once fully carbonated?

 

[antiphile]

You've obviously put a huge amount of thought, effort and experience into this one, Danestead. So please don't mistake any of my suggestions for criticism; I'd rather you'd consider it thinking out loud.

On the topic of the judges comments about the "harsh bitterness", I'm wondering if you might have considered FWH with the magnum. I've only done it a few times (and never tried a true side by side comparison), but I think it takes the harshness of the bittering as reported by others who know better.

Take that suggestion for free, and remember it's worth is what you paid for it!

 

[danestead]

Last night I racked the beer into a secondary fermenter to get it out of contact with the dry hops (25g/25g/25g) that I'd added directly to the fermenter. It had been in contact for 4 days at ~23 degrees and 1 day about ~3 degrees.

I also had a lot of trub, yeast and hop matter in the bottom of the fermenter that I wanted to get it clear from, in order to get the most benefit (clarity wise) from cold conditioning before bottling.

Samples are starting to taste better now there's not as much hop matter (and trub/yeast etc) suspended in the beer, however it doesn't have that real in your face hop aroma or flavour that Hop Hog or other IPAs have.

I was wondering if this could be due to the relatively low level of carbonation at the moment, not releasing the hop aromas from the beer?

The hop aroma could also be masked a bit by the fruity aroma of the yeast I used, Wyeast 1099 Whitbread Ale. I probably should have gone with a more neutral yeast.

I'm considering adding more dry hops (in a bag this time) to the secondary while cold conditioning until bottling in 5 days or so. It probably couldn't hurt right? Unless I can expect a massive increase in hop aroma once fully carbonated?

It's interesting you mention that the hop flavour is low compared to a real hop hog as in the last 2 batches, myself and a friend thought my version had too much hop flavour. That is why the latest recipe has a reduced 15 min addition.

As for the aroma, I agree. I recently brewed an Amber ale with citra hops and the aroma was better than the hop hog, even though the Amber ale had less dry hops and no whirlpool addition. This hop hog recipe may need a revision since I've gotten rid of the citra to bring the aroma up somewhat because I think different hops can have quite a difference in their aroma intensity. All the hops I used in the hop hog, plus the citra, were the current season hops from Hops Direct.

I'm also starting to think that I may need to go down the hop back route to chase more aroma. I also think I may change the whirlpool addition to a flameout or 1 min addition because I'm not entirely convinced on the whirlpool as yet (although ive heard others reporting success ).

This hop hog recipe already has heaps of aroma hops in it but they don't seem to be doing the best job so I think trying different techniques might be the answer.

I've had some great double Ipas recently which just burst with aroma which has me stumped as to how they achieve it. Maybe they dump 10g/L or something in as dry hops with a short contact time but I'm not sure if that's commercially viable even when you pay upwards of $10 a bottle. I'll try hassle the guys at feral or nail to find out their techniques and hopping rates and report back.

Cheers.

 

[danestead]

You've obviously put a huge amount of thought, effort and experience into this one, Danestead. So please don't mistake any of my suggestions for criticism; I'd rather you'd consider it thinking out loud.

On the topic of the judges comments about the "harsh bitterness", I'm wondering if you might have considered FWH with the magnum. I've only done it a few times (and never tried a true side by side comparison), but I think it takes the harshness of the bittering as reported by others who know better.

Take that suggestion for free, and remember it's worth is what you paid for it!

Cheers for the suggestion. I haven't played around with fwh yet.

I actually think it's my water causing the harshness and I'm in the process of using different water treatment techniques to fix that. So far, on a kölsch, my new water seems to have fixed the problem. I won't be able to report on whether it's worked for sure until I try it in a bitter beer though.

 

[purple-lazy]

It's interesting you mention that the hop flavour is low compared to a real hop hog as in the last 2 batches, myself and a friend thought my version had too much hop flavour. That is why the latest recipe has a reduced 15 min addition.

Hey danestead. Thanks for the feedback. Don't rely on me for any reliable input regarding the recipe. I'm only comparing green beer with a half remembered Hop Hog tasting months ago. Plus I'm a nub with no palate. Any shortcomings with my current brew are entirely of my own making.

I do happen to have just about the right amount of hops sitting in the freezer for a second round of dry hopping however, so I think it's a worthwhile experiment in search of that hop aroma.

 

[danestead]

Hey danestead. Thanks for the feedback. Don't rely on me for any reliable input regarding the recipe. I'm only comparing green beer with a half remembered Hop Hog tasting months ago. Plus I'm a nub with no palate. Any shortcomings with my current brew are entirely of my own making.

I do happen to have just about the right amount of hops sitting in the freezer for a second round of dry hopping however, so I think it's a worthwhile experiment in search of that hop aroma.

Go for the 2nd dry hop man! Dry hops for the win!

 

[danestead]

Those in the know say to double my dry hop and I should have better luck. So up to 150g for me next time :super:

 

[purple-lazy]

Those in the know say to double my dry hop and I should have better luck. So up to 150g for me next time :super:

Nice. Glad you have the connections.

I ended up adding another 25g/25g/25g Tuesday night. I tried a sample this morning and it certainly has kicked up the hop flavour, so much so I was worried I may have overdone it. Well for a second anyway.It has quite a viscous mouth feel and prominent hop flavour. I'm not sure it's balanced, but I like it. Plus it's still early days.

The aroma still seems subdued however, but I think this could be due to a number of factors, including my malt and yeast choices. I get a sweet fruity smell more than anything.

I'm really interested to see what difference carbonation, bottling and and a bit of time will make.

 

[bruiserbbq]

I brewed (BIAB....20 litre into fermenter) another one of Dano's #4 .....but this time I Vorlauf the Caramunich and only added hops on flameout.

180g at flame out.....then another 180g once wort was cooled down below 80c

So a fair whack of hops....but I have no idea if it will be bitter or not....fingers crossed!

Cheers Mark

 

[danestead]

I brewed (BIAB....20 litre into fermenter) another one of Dano's #4 .....but this time I Vorlauf the Caramunich and only added hops on flameout.

180g at flame out.....then another 180g once wort was cooled down below 80c

So a fair whack of hops....but I have no idea if it will be bitter or not....fingers crossed!

Cheers Mark

Excellent. Sounds great! Make sure you report back with your findings!

 

[danestead]

After having a taste of version #4, personally I think it needs more aroma, has a pretty bad astringency and possibly a tad dry. Other than that, I think it's where I want it. The judges in the WASABC mentioned more aroma needed, astringency, too many esters, acetaldehyde and hop flavour too low.

The updated recipe to be brewed next (version #5) has doubled the 0 minute and dry hopping amounts, uses tap water rather than RO/DI water made up with salts to fix the astringency problems and uses wy1056 to try drop the esters that the judges are noticing (I can't notice them but the likelyhood is that I just think that is the hops giving those aromas). I've left the 15 minute flavour hops the same as I think it closely reflects that of the Feral Hop Hog. I've also very slightly changed the mash schedule to a 67 degree rest.

With any luck, this will be the end of the tweaking.

Enjoy, and if you brew it, let me know how it turns out.

:icon_cheers:


[SIZE=10.5pt]Recipe: Dano's Hop Hog Clone (Recipe 5)[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]Equipment[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]-------------
20L Braumeister[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]Recipe Specifics[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]----------------[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]Batch Size (L): 26.00 Post Boil[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]Total Grain (Kg): 6.12[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]Anticipated OG: 1.058 Plato: 14.30[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]Target FG: 1.014[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]Anticipated EBC: 14.1[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]Anticipated IBU: 49.1 Tinseth[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]Brewhouse Efficiency: 78 %[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]Wort Boil Time: 90 Minutes[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]Alc by Volume: 5.8%[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]Grain/Extract/Sugar[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt] % Amount Name Origin Potential EBC[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]-----------------------------------------------------------------------------[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt] 87.5 5.35 kg. Barrett Burston - Ale Malt Australia 1.038 6[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt] 10.0 0.61 kg. Weyermann Munich I Germany 1.038 15[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt] 2.5 0.15 kg. Weyermann Caramunich II Germany 1.035 125[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]Hops[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt] Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]-----------------------------------------------------------------------------[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt] 30.00 g. Magnum Pellet 10.59 32.5 60 min.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt] 15.00 g. Amarillo Pellet 7.79 5.9 15 min.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt] 15.00 g. Cascade Pellet 5.68 4.3 15 min.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt] 15.00 g. Centennial Pellet 8.30 6.3 15 min.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt] 36.40 g. Amarillo Pellet 7.79 0.0 0 min.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt] 36.40 g. Cascade Pellet 5.68 0.0 0 min.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt] 36.40 g. Centennial Pellet 8.30 0.0 0 min.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]Once the boil is up and the 0 minute hops are added, I immediately immersion chill to 70 deg to lock in the IBU's and stop isomerisation, then do a whirlpool for 15 mins prior to plate chilling into the fermenter. On revision 1 I didn't immersion chill straight away which resulted in a large overshoot in IBU's.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt] 50.00 g. Cascade Pellet 5.68 0.0 Dry Hop[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt] 50.00 g. Centennial Pellet 8.30 0.0 Dry Hop[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt] 50.00 g. Amarillo Pellet 7.79 0.0 Dry Hop[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]Dry hop for approximately 4 days toward the end of fermentation.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]Yeast[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]-----[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]Starter of Fermentis US-05 American Ale, Wyeast 1056 or White Labs 001.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]Fermented at 18 degrees. Diacetyl rest at 22 degrees once gravity hits 1.020.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]Mash Schedule[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]-------------[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]Dough In Temp: 38 Time: 0[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]Saccharification Rest Temp: 67 Time: 60[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]Additional Rest Temp: 72 Time: 10[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]Mash-out Rest Temp: 76 Time: 10[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]Sparge Temp: 76 Time: 0[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]Water[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]-------
Perth tap water put through a sediment and carbon filter.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]Mash PH adjusted to 5.4 (room temp.) with Lactic Acid.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]My initial attempts used RO/DI water built to a specific profile with salts but it appears this was causing an astringency.[/SIZE]

 

[Dan Pratt]

[SIZE=10.5pt]Once the boil is up and the 0 minute hops are added, I immediately immersion chill to 70 deg to lock in the IBU's and stop isomerisation, then do a whirlpool for 15 mins prior to plate chilling into the fermenter. On revision 1 I didn't immersion chill straight away which resulted in a large overshoot in IBU's.[/SIZE]

Hi Dano,

If you want more aroma then adjust this part mentioned above.

Start the immersion chilller at end of boil and drop below 85c ofcourse target 70c if your used to that...... then add the hops. But leave them to hop-stand for 10mins then whirlpool and for another 10 and then start your transfer. You will get all the oils at the lower temp and get the ibus locked in from the boil.

From experience I hop stand for 10mins and whirlpool for 5-10mins more while getting FV ready and haven't noticed the IBU to be much higher than chilling immediately. this is with both pale ale and ipa's

 

[danestead]

Hi Dano,

If you want more aroma then adjust this part mentioned above.

Start the immersion chilller at end of boil and drop below 85c ofcourse target 70c if your used to that...... then add the hops. But leave them to hop-stand for 10mins then whirlpool and for another 10 and then start your transfer. You will get all the oils at the lower temp and get the ibus locked in from the boil.

From experience I hop stand for 10mins and whirlpool for 5-10mins more while getting FV ready and haven't noticed the IBU to be much higher than chilling immediately. this is with both pale ale and ipa's

Yeah that's what I used to do but I'm not sure if it was working as well as I'd hoped so I'm trying it the old way again to see if there's an improvement or not. It only takes me 2 mins to chill to 70 degrees btw

 

[technobabble66]

Jebus, Dano ... ~ 340g of hops into a 26L batch!!!

You'd wanna be getting some gargantuan aroma and flavour for that amount! And it's still not enough?!

Just tossing a few ideas around. This may all be silly speculation, but ....
If you're still not getting enough aroma, have you considered some other techniques rather than just more hops? - e.g.: doing a double dry hop schedule, using a hop-back during bottling/kegging, etc?

I believe for the Pliny the Elder, Vinnie C (as per his clone estimation for his famous beer) dry-hops his beer twice for 2 different effects. The first main one is just after fermentation is finished, while the beer is still at 18-20°C and the yeast is still in suspension. I believe some of the US brewers have found the (still slightly active) yeast seems to interact with the hops oils to perhaps alter the nature of the aromas produced, and also to maybe help "fix" the aroma element into the beer. Or rather, this is what seems to happen at the warmer temps, so the guess was it was due to an interaction with the yeast; maybe it's just a better extraction, etc.
However, this also involves a loss of aroma as the yeast drops out, carrying some of the hoppy goodness with it. So he does a second round a week or so later, maybe after CC-ing or the day the CC-ing drop starts (?), whereby the yeast has now dropped out and the oils merely go directly into solution.

Another strategy could be to stick with the single dry hop, but wait until the yeast has fully dropped out.
Fwiw, the effect i mentioned above that some US brewers reported on - that dry-hopping at warm temps gives a different/better effect - may be more from temp rather than the yeast. Meaning that you could wait for the yeast to drop out (maybe via a quick 3-4 day CC, then raise temp a bit) then hit it with the dry hops at warmer temps?

Otherwise, some of the bigger aroma beers i've had i believe use a hop-back during packaging. Can you rig that up? If not, could you dry hop straight into the Bulk Priming vessel prior to bottling, leave for an hour or two with occasional swirling, then bottle? (You'd need to have a filter of some sort, obviously.) If you keg, then the other option is keg-hopping.

A final option could be to use a Hops Shot, as per the hopdealzaustralia website (no affiliation, etc). Should crank up the hops aroma massively, but will be their generic blend rather than the specific HH hops combo.


One other minor point, are we sure FB use US-05 in HH? Could it be worth giving 1272 a shot?

 

[danestead]

Gday mate, cheers for your input. It all helps knowing other techniques that people use. Hopefully the below info will give you an insight into why I do things the way I do.

Jebus, Dano ... ~ 340g of hops into a 26L batch!!!

You'd wanna be getting some gargantuan aroma and flavour for that amount! And it's still not enough?!

The new recipe has about 340g of hops, the old recipe had about 200g which was not giving me and others the aroma we wanted. I too damn hope 340g is enough! My next planned IIPA actually has 500g!

Just tossing a few ideas around. This may all be silly speculation, but ....
If you're still not getting enough aroma, have you considered some other techniques rather than just more hops? - e.g.: doing a double dry hop schedule, using a hop-back during bottling/kegging, etc?

I have done a double dry hop before in an IIPA and may do the 150g dry hop in 2 halves. The reason I dry hop just before fermentation is finished is to hope that any oxygen introduced when dry hopping is used up by the active yeast. I have dry hopped after FG has been reached before with no perceived oxidation effects but I guess it's whether you want to take that risk or not. I've not done any side by side experiments so it's a bit harder to know what works best or if it makes a difference at all.

If I had a blichmann hop rocket or similar I would definitely use it but rather than putting $10 worth of flowers in that, I'd rather put $10 extra worth of pellets in my brew. It is inevitable I'll end up with a hop rocket and the result is likely slightly different however I'm just working with what I've got at the moment.

I believe for the Pliny the Elder, Vinnie C (as per his clone estimation for his famous beer) dry-hops his beer twice for 2 different effects. The first main one is just after fermentation is finished, while the beer is still at 18-20°C and the yeast is still in suspension. I believe some of the US brewers have found the (still slightly active) yeast seems to interact with the hops oils to perhaps alter the nature of the aromas produced, and also to maybe help "fix" the aroma element into the beer. Or rather, this is what seems to happen at the warmer temps, so the guess was it was due to an interaction with the yeast; maybe it's just a better extraction, etc.
However, this also involves a loss of aroma as the yeast drops out, carrying some of the hoppy goodness with it. So he does a second round a week or so later, maybe after CC-ing or the day the CC-ing drop starts (?), whereby the yeast has now dropped out and the oils merely go directly into solution.

I've dry hopped whilst cold conditioning before and it was a waste of hops. I got nowhere near the aroma I get from a warm dry hop and recently I chatted with a friend and he finds that dry hopping cold results in extracting more of the vegetal character of the hop I don't want.

Another strategy could be to stick with the single dry hop, but wait until the yeast has fully dropped out.
Fwiw, the effect i mentioned above that some US brewers reported on - that dry-hopping at warm temps gives a different/better effect - may be more from temp rather than the yeast. Meaning that you could wait for the yeast to drop out (maybe via a quick 3-4 day CC, then raise temp a bit) then hit it with the dry hops at warmer temps?

Too much faffing about for me although it may get better efficiency out of the hops. I'd rather just use more hops than spend the extra days with the beer in the fermenter.

Otherwise, some of the bigger aroma beers i've had i believe use a hop-back during packaging. Can you rig that up? If not, could you dry hop straight into the Bulk Priming vessel prior to bottling, leave for an hour or two with occasional swirling, then bottle? (You'd need to have a filter of some sort, obviously.) If you keg, then the other option is keg-hopping.

An hour or two dry hopping prior to kegging would not make much difference I don't think. A day or 2 would be the minimum to get a good increase in aroma I would have thought. You'd end up having to filter the hops out like you said which I don't have.

A final option could be to use a Hops Shot, as per the hopdealzaustralia website (no affiliation, etc). Should crank up the hops aroma massively, but will be their generic blend rather than the specific HH hops combo.

A hop shot would probably work, yes, if you could get the hops you wanted but isn't a hop shot just oils extracted from hops? That's what we are doing by adding pellets to the fermenter.

One other minor point, are we sure FB use US-05 in HH? Could it be worth giving 1272 a shot?

I am 90% sure Feral use dry yeast in their Hop Hog. Whether it's US05 or not, I don't know. I gave away using US05 a year ago due to diacetyl problems. I used wy1272 for the last year in place of US05 which has fixed the diacetyl problems in competitions. I have now got reports of esters in my wy1272 beers so I'm going to go to wy1056 and see how that goes.

I've spoken to both Will at Feral and I think it was Red at Pirate Life. Will suggested doubling my dry hops and Red also said they use lots of dry hops in their beers. His guess on the spot was 5g/L or so in their beers. I mentioned to him that it must cost a lot to add that amount of hops to their beers and he agreed and basically said it's just what you need to do to make a beer like that. It's just the cost of doing business I guess. I've also read that Little Creatures use at least 3-5g/L of dry hop. http://byo.com/issues/item/1702-imperial-ipa-style-profile suggests 340-450g of hops in an IIPA. My Hop Hog Clone is only an IPA, but I want it rocking.

Most of what I do with my beers is based on more traditional or tried and true techniques that are proven to work, and I leave most of the experimentation to others. I also work with the system I have to get the best that I feel I can get out of it. Also, some of the ways I do things is because I think the risk of infection outweighs the benefit.

Keep the suggestions coming.

Cheers :beerbang:

 

[N3MIS15]

@danstead I recently brewed a similar version to your v5 recipe with the addition of chinook.


5.10 kg Pale Malt, Traditional Ale (Joe White) (5.9 EBC) Grain 1 87.3 %
0.59 kg Munich, Light (Joe White) (17.7 EBC) Grain 2 10.1 %
0.15 kg Caramunich II (Weyermann) (124.1 EBC) Grain 3 2.6 %
20.00 g Warrior [15.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 4 29.4 IBUs
10.00 g Cascade [5.50 %] - Boil 15.0 min Hop 5 2.7 IBUs
10.00 g Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 15.0 min Hop 6 4.9 IBUs
10.00 g Chinook [13.00 %] - Boil 15.0 min Hop 7 6.3 IBUs
10.00 g Mosaic (HBC 369) [12.25 %] - Boil 15.0 min Hop 8 6.0 IBUs
15.00 g Cascade [5.50 %] - Boil 0.0 min Hop 9 0.0 IBUs
15.00 g Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 0.0 min Hop 10 0.0 IBUs
15.00 g Chinook [13.00 %] - Boil 0.0 min Hop 11 0.0 IBUs
15.00 g Mosaic (HBC 369) [12.25 %] - Boil 0.0 min Hop 12 0.0 IBUs
1.0 pkg Safale American (DCL/Fermentis #US-05) [50.28 ml] Yeast 13 -
1.00 tsp Yeast Nutrient (Primary 3.0 days) Other 14 -
20.00 g Amarillo [9.20 %] - Dry Hop 4.0 Days Hop 15 0.0 IBUs
20.00 g Centennial [10.00 %] - Dry Hop 4.0 Days Hop 16 0.0 IBUs

I used mosaic only because I didn't have enough amarillo on hand. Drinking now and goes down a treat (but not enough aroma).

FWIW here is the next version I plan on trying (will brew in a couple weeks when ferm fridge is free). I've pretty much just doubled the aroma additions.

5.10 kg Pale Malt, Traditional Ale (Joe White) (5.9 EBC) Grain 1 87.3 %
0.59 kg Munich, Light (Joe White) (17.7 EBC) Grain 2 10.1 %
0.15 kg Caramunich II (Weyermann) (124.1 EBC) Grain 3 2.6 %
20.00 g Warrior [15.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 4 30.6 IBUs
10.00 g Amarillo [9.20 %] - Boil 15.0 min Hop 5 4.7 IBUs
10.00 g Cascade [5.50 %] - Boil 15.0 min Hop 6 2.8 IBUs
10.00 g Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 15.0 min Hop 7 5.1 IBUs
10.00 g Chinook [13.00 %] - Boil 15.0 min Hop 8 6.6 IBUs
30.00 g Amarillo [9.20 %] - Boil 0.0 min Hop 9 0.0 IBUs
30.00 g Cascade [5.50 %] - Boil 0.0 min Hop 10 0.0 IBUs
30.00 g Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 0.0 min Hop 11 0.0 IBUs
30.00 g Chinook [13.00 %] - Boil 0.0 min Hop 12 0.0 IBUs
1.0 pkg Safale American (DCL/Fermentis #US-05) [50.28 ml] Yeast 13 -
1.00 tsp Yeast Nutrient (Primary 3.0 days) Other 14 -
40.00 g Amarillo [9.20 %] - Dry Hop 6.0 Days Hop 15 0.0 IBUs
40.00 g Centennial [10.00 %] - Dry Hop 6.0 Days Hop 16 0.0 IBUs

 

[Spookism]

Hey guys,

I'm pretty new to all this and I am interested in having a go at this brew...
I am using a GrainFather and have only brewed a couple of brews so far.
Everyone of those has used a single step mash up until mash out.

So if I am reading this correctly...

Mash Schedule
-------------
Dough In Temp: 38 Time: 20
Intermediate Rest Temp: 67 Time: 60
Saccharification Rest Temp: 72 Time: 10
Mash-out Rest Temp: 78 Time: 10
Sparge Temp: 78 Time: 0

I put the malt in at 38 degrees for 20 minute, then raise it to 67 degrees for 60 minutes etc.

If this is correct then do I wait until the unit gets up to 67 before counting down the 60 minutes?

 

[danestead]

Hey guys,

I'm pretty new to all this and I am interested in having a go at this brew...
I am using a GrainFather and have only brewed a couple of brews so far.
Everyone of those has used a single step mash up until mash out.

So if I am reading this correctly...


I put the malt in at 38 degrees for 20 minute, then raise it to 67 degrees for 60 minutes etc.

If this is correct then do I wait until the unit gets up to 67 before counting down the 60 minutes?

Correc

Correct

 

[Spookism]

Correc

Correct

Thanks

 

[woodfired]

Danestead,

Great work on this recipe so far.

Just thought I'd share the dry hopping technique I picked up at ANHC.

I turned a corny keg into a dedicated dry hop vessel by cutting an inch off the bottom of the pickup stem with a pipe cutter. When fermentation is complete I transfer to this keg with a bit of CO2 to try to achieve a blanket. Add dry hops as pellets. No bag! I then put lid on and purge with CO2 and put a bit off pressure on. I always try to do this on a weekend cos I then put the keg upside down for 30 minutes and flip it every half hour (or so) for 8 hours. (sometimes leave it overnight). Once this is done I put it in the fridge right way up for a day. The pressure and the chill help flocc out any remnant yeast and the hops. Next day I use an 'Out' to 'out' hose (got homebrew shop owner to make it for me) to transfer the beer prom the outlet of the dry hopping keg to the outlet of the final keg (again with a Co'2 blanket) with the lid on and the vent open. Then its done.

Seems like a bit of stuffing around, but equipment required was one corny and the custom hose. I rate the effect of dry hopping in this way to be at least double the aroma for the same recipe if not more. Since I've bee doing this the "mystery' of how they get that massive aroma in the DIPAs is no longer even a challenge.

Looking forward to trying your recipe.