Brown Pump

[ledgenko]

Hey Guys ..



I ack that this is a convo on the brown pump .. but after reading all the stuff on pumps and mill motors on here tonight I found this pump system from the big Green shed ...

Thoughts ???


http://www.bunnings.com.au/products_produc...rden+Irrigation

 

[Maheel]

Hey Guys ..



I ack that this is a convo on the brown pump .. but after reading all the stuff on pumps and mill motors on here tonight I found this pump system from the big Green shed ...

Thoughts ???


http://www.bunnings.com.au/products_produc...rden+Irrigation

what are you pumping with it ?

if water i reckon your wasting money as it looks tiny better off with a pond / bilge pump or the brown pump
if anything like wort, dont bother

 

[benno1973]

Hey Guys ..



I ack that this is a convo on the brown pump .. but after reading all the stuff on pumps and mill motors on here tonight I found this pump system from the big Green shed ...

Thoughts ???


http://www.bunnings.com.au/products_produc...rden+Irrigation

Not good for a couple of reasons... Firstly, you need to submerse part of the pump in the liquid you're drawing from. Fine if you just want to pump water through a chiller or something, but what if you want to pump from your mash tun to your kettle? Secondly, it's not food grade or temperature rated, which the brown pumps are.

 

[loikar]

Slightly reviving an old thread...

Thinking of getting 4 of these on a single tier.

1 for the HLT > MT
1 for MT > Kettle
1 for Kettle > Fermenter.
1 to recirculate chilled water through a plate chiller.

So, forget about that part, it's irrelevant to my question...

I understand they don't like near boiling Wort and can potentially overheat and stop.
I want to run mine after a plate chiller to avoid searing hot temps.

Just wondering if anyone uses one in this configuration and would it perform better before, after or indifferent regardless of where it was placed after the kettle?

Cheers,

BF

 

[argon]

I run boiling water or wort through mine all the time for extended periods. Even did a 3 hour boiling recirc not long ago. Doesn't miss a beat. No problems at all.

 

[Nevalicious]

Yep, I used mine over the weekend to recirculate near boiling HLT water for an extended period, then recirculating the mash for over an hour (more or less) and whilst they get bloody warm, they haven't given up yet. Pretty good purchase I reckon. Very happy with mine.

Maybe others that have had issues in the past might have just got a dud unit?

 

[loikar]

That's Even better news then.
Would there be any ill effects running it after the chiller? or a better question;
where is the ideal placement for these pumps after the kettle given a 30 Plate chiller needs to sit in there too?

Thanks lads.

Might be hitting you up later in the year for help with the Build Nev

 

[Nevalicious]

I may be wrong, but you could surely place it before or after the chiller. Unless I'm missing something, they should both work. If that is the case, I'd prolly stick it after the chiller.

As for the build, you know where I normally hang around. It ain't here...

 

[blotto]

Gryphon Brewing sell these pumps for a fair price Linky

 

[argon]

That's Even better news then.
Would there be any ill effects running it after the chiller? or a better question;
where is the ideal placement for these pumps after the kettle given a 30 Plate chiller needs to sit in there too?

Thanks lads.

Might be hitting you up later in the year for help with the Build Nev

I put mine between kettle and chiller. If it's on the outlet side of the chiller it's effectively sucking and you can't control the flow rate through the chiller and is potentially more susceptible to cavitation.

Also, as an added piece of future proofing, i can put a Hop Rocket between the pump and chiller, which is what Blichmann recommends.

 

[mxd]

some how I've missed these before, good price for food grade, maybe I need another pump so I could try sequential 60 ltr batches,

Could use march for HERMS and HLT to MLT and MLT to kettle, then another kettle to kettle for immersion recirc chilling (to 80 degrees) then to cube. mmm the thoughts I must make em stop.

 

[DJR]

I've ordered one of these and have done up a basic schematic for using a transistor to control it on/off.

Managed to find a transistor with a minimum Hfe of 800 that is not a darlington pair and can be had for $2.50 a pair on Ebay including shipping, which is pretty damned good. Proof will be in the pudding, once i have the control circuit done and tested i'll post it up here if any one is interested. It'll allow you to control the pump with a dedicated 12v supply of 1A or higher (mine is a 1.5A plugpack) and anything that can switch 5v or lower at low power, e.g. Arduino or one-wire systems. My system will use a USB power input and 1-wire (DS2413) input and it is in "reverse" - open the ground to turn it off, and leave the ground disconnected to have the pump turn on.

I'll then use it to pump for my HERMS unit and allow flow to start/stop depending on the mash temp sensor. You could theoretically control the output by limiting the current or voltage, but for the moment I don't have the capability of doing that, I'd need a basic DAC in my system. I think some of the Arduino boards can do that.

 

[matho]

I've ordered one of these and have done up a basic schematic for using a transistor to control it on/off.

Managed to find a transistor with a minimum Hfe of 800 that is not a darlington pair and can be had for $2.50 a pair on Ebay including shipping, which is pretty damned good. Proof will be in the pudding, once i have the control circuit done and tested i'll post it up here if any one is interested. It'll allow you to control the pump with a dedicated 12v supply of 1A or higher (mine is a 1.5A plugpack) and anything that can switch 5v or lower at low power, e.g. Arduino or one-wire systems. My system will use a USB power input and 1-wire (DS2413) input and it is in "reverse" - open the ground to turn it off, and leave the ground disconnected to have the pump turn on.

I'll then use it to pump for my HERMS unit and allow flow to start/stop depending on the mash temp sensor. You could theoretically control the output by limiting the current or voltage, but for the moment I don't have the capability of doing that, I'd need a basic DAC in my system. I think some of the Arduino boards can do that.

sounds good mate, you could try PWM to control the pump but I don't know how well the pump would handle that. Another cheats way of creating a DAC is PWM with a capacitor between the output and ground, but with the load of the pump you would need a large capacitor which would meaan slow charge times, your probably better off with just switching the pump on and off.

cheers

 

[gava]

i see theses come in 12VDC or 24VDC any advantage of either?

 

[ForkBoy]

Anyone know how these would go with 1.5m of head?

 

[blotto]

Anyone know how these would go with 1.5m of head?

Have a look here ForkBoy there is a bit of detail about them

 

[DJR]

Anyone know how these would go with 1.5m of head?

Says max head is 3m.

Just fired mine up on a test batch of cold water, can't believe how quickly the thing pumps for a 12v pump. Just scotchlocked the connectors onto an old 12v/1A modem power supply. OK, it's not a march but it's still pretty good.

PWM may work with these, as they are DC you could use a pretty high frequency to adjust, otherwise just a matter of enough on/off cycles to make it do what you want.

 

[DJR]

sounds good mate, you could try PWM to control the pump but I don't know how well the pump would handle that. Another cheats way of creating a DAC is PWM with a capacitor between the output and ground, but with the load of the pump you would need a large capacitor which would meaan slow charge times, your probably better off with just switching the pump on and off.

cheers

Just thinking about this you could use an LM317T voltage reg, and PWM into that with something like this that uses a simple op-amp arrangement; http://www.edn.com/article/512537-Control_..._PWM_signal.php

Might be possible as well to have a simple resistor bridge arrangement and use both PIO pins on a 1 wire dual channel switch to run a variable potential divider type thing from the 12v supply, and have three speeds - full off, one on, both on. Not sure if it'd work like that but I can always give it a go, LM317's are cheap and so are resistors

 

[loikar]

So getting closer to buying these now
So what's the go, threaded ones or the barbs?

I like the idea of the threads as im thinking of getting cam locks to screw on, but the barbed ones seem simpler.

Thoughts?

 

[Nevalicious]

I went the barbed ones mate FWIW, however it also means you need to buy additional fittings

Costly...