Brewtech SS fermenting vessels discussion thread

[krz]

Used these fuel line quick disconnects for my fermenters cooling immersion coil.
Valves on both ends. https://www.thirdgear.com.au/fuel-line-fast-connector/

 

[stux]

Anymore feedback on the Unitanks?

Finally got the go ahead for a 64lt conical, and am seriously thinking about the 1/2bbl uni. Looking forward to carbing triple batches in situ

But how do you clean them? I’d get a CIP setup eventually... but what about at first?

 

[RobW]

Well there's your problem but experience indicates that if you sanitise the hose there don't seem to be any problems.
On reflection you could fill the upper tube with sanitiser before attaching the trap and then let it drain back in but it's hardly worth the effort IMO.
Or fit an inline filter?

 

[razz]

Anymore feedback on the Unitanks?

Finally got the go ahead for a 64lt conical, and am seriously thinking about the 1/2bbl uni. Looking forward to carbing triple batches in situ

But how do you clean them? I’d get a CIP setup eventually... but what about at first?

Hi stux. For the first clean I used the recommended TSP to get rid of any residual oils. Tricleanium is the product I used. After brewing you can either use a bit of elbow grease to clean them out, I used PBW and a sponge. Now I use a spray ball connected to a March pump and run hot PBW through for about 20 minutes. The spray balls are a bit of a gimmick as I think they are used in commercial setups to save time and elbow grease but for home brewers they are just another tool in the kit. I use the 64lt unitank and I can reach into that quite easily, I don't know about the 1/2 barrel I'm assuming it maybe a bit deeper.

 

[stux]

Hi stux. For the first clean I used the recommended TSP to get rid of any residual oils. Tricleanium is the product I used. After brewing you can either use a bit of elbow grease to clean them out, I used PBW and a sponge. Now I use a spray ball connected to a March pump and run hot PBW through for about 20 minutes. The spray balls are a bit of a gimmick as I think they are used in commercial setups to save time and elbow grease but for home brewers they are just another tool in the kit. I use the 64lt unitank and I can reach into that quite easily, I don't know about the 1/2 barrel I'm assuming it maybe a bit deeper.

Thanks Razz,

17gal unit is the 64L unit is the half bbl unit

 

[hopnotic]

For those with chronicals or uni tanks, when dumping trub and yeast have you ever had a problem with the wort blowing a hole in the sediment and coming through the bottom outlet before all of the trub/yeast has been dumped?

 

[hopnotic]

Thanks Razz,

17gal unit is the 64L unit is the half bbl unit

I think 17gal equates to 64L whereas half bbl is 80L.

 

[stux]

I think 17gal equates to 64L whereas half bbl is 80L.

Referring to this one
https://www.ssbrewtech.com/collections/all-unitanks/products/half-bbl-unitank

Which I suspect has been rebranded from “17” in the US

https://www.newerabrewing.com.au/ss-brewtech-uni-tank-17/

 

[Truman42]

For those with chronicals or uni tanks, when dumping trub and yeast have you ever had a problem with the wort blowing a hole in the sediment and coming through the bottom outlet before all of the trub/yeast has been dumped?

YES. Especially if Im dumping out trub before pitching yeast or I havent cold crashed. So now I dont bother dumping before Ive CC'd.

But if Ive cold crashed for a few days I get a nice thick yeast sludge come out first and then as the wort starts to flow I shut the valve. i brought a butterfly valve from keg King.

 

[hopnotic]

So it sounds like a uni tank is pointless given you can't reliably drop the yeast until fermentation has fully completed (cold crashed) meaning your brew sits on the yeast cake for the duration - off flavours are likely.

 

[Meddo]

You certainly can dump trub or yeast, you just need a flow control dump valve rather than a butterfly. Try a diaphragm or ball (sanitary issues unless encapsulated) valve instead to slow things down.

 

[hopnotic]

Referring to this one
https://www.ssbrewtech.com/collections/all-unitanks/products/half-bbl-unitank

Which I suspect has been rebranded from “17” in the US

https://www.newerabrewing.com.au/ss-brewtech-uni-tank-17/

Half barrel and 17 gal unitank are different items with different capacities. Listed separately on brewtech's website.

 

[stux]

Half barrel and 17 gal unitank are different items with different capacities. Listed separately on brewtech's website.

I really don't think so, but happy to have my misconception debunked



Also, https://ssbrewtech.zendesk.com/hc/e...1-2bbl-tank-Aren-t-they-almost-the-same-size-



The 7gal and 14gal unitanks and chronicals are named after the max volume you can fit in the vessel, not the appropriate batch size. These are designed for 5.5gal and 11gal batch/brew size respectively with about 20% headspace included.

The 1/2bbl and 1bbl+ tanks are NOT named after max volume you can fit in the tanks, but ARE named for the batch size. The half bbl tanks are about 17gallons in total volume and the 1bbl tanks are closer to 42 gallons in volume instead of 15.5gal and 31.5gal.

If the 1/2 BBL was named after its approx max volume like the 7 and 14, it'd probably be called a 17, which is what they originally called it before release, as far as I can tell from my internet searches

And on New Era's website they *do* refer to it as the 17, but as far as I can tell, it *is* the 1/2 BBL as per SSB's website

 

[hopnotic]

Good pickup stux. That's really confusing.

So in terms of batch size, how much finished beer can we produce from the 17 gal / half barrel unitank? Give or take a few litres for different trub levels, etc.

I'm trying to figure out how many 375mL cans I can produce, as a number of friends sell beer and wine through their businesses.

 

[stux]

Good pickup stux. That's really confusing.

So in terms of batch size, how much finished beer can we produce from the 17 gal / half barrel unitank? Give or take a few litres for different trub levels, etc.

I'm trying to figure out how many 375mL cans I can produce, as a number of friends sell beer and wine through their businesses.

3 corny kegs. Or as the yanks call that, a triple batch, since everything they do is in units of 5Gal. Same as what I can get out of my 60L (closer to 64L total capacity) plastic fermenters... if I fill them close to the top... and have a massive blow-off system

3 corny kegs is 15 US Gal precisely, aka about 19L each, so 57L finished beer.

Reason I originally got excited for a Chronical 17 a few years ago when they were first announced , the 14 was too small to do 3 kegs.

And 1/2 BBL is 59.62L

 

[Truman42]

You certainly can dump trub or yeast, you just need a flow control dump valve rather than a butterfly. Try a diaphragm or ball (sanitary issues unless encapsulated) valve instead to allow things down.

My past experience was with a ball valve as I have only just brought a butterfly valve. You can transfer wort and dump cold break/trub etc an hour later but the OP asked if you lose wort. Yes you do, but YMMV.

You can dump yeast once fermentation is finished but you will also lose some wort even when using a ball valve. Ive found that the best way to dump just yeast is to cold crash. Then I get a nice thick yeast sludge come out first. Other than that im getting a mixture of wort, but with practice you can minimise the amount you lose.

 

[Meddo]

Yeah, @hopnotic posited that: "a uni tank is pointless given you can't reliably drop the yeast until fermentation has fully completed (cold crashed) meaning your brew sits on the yeast cake for the duration - off flavours are likely."

I disagree with that, using a flow control valve you can certainly slow the yeast dumping enough that it doesn't "blowing a hole in the sediment". It may take multiple dump stages - you'll never get it all completely in one step before it does break through - but it can certainly be done for the flocced yeast before CC if required without losing too much beer/wort. I allow an extra half litre or so in my batch size to negate this issue regardless of timing. I use a diaphragm valve BTW.

Dumping cold break prior to pitching is a different issue given how fluffy it is.

 

[razz]

Thanks Razz,

17gal unit is the 64L unit is the half bbl unit

I’m a ****, mine is the 14G.

 

[stux]

I’m a ****, mine is the 14G.

Does anyone have the 17G/64L/ 1/2bbl unitank and care to comment on cleaning? About the same as the 14?

Meanwhile, was checking up on Triclovers,

https://www.brewershardware.com/how_to_use_tri_clover_fittings.html
Each connection requires a clamp and gasket. Tri Clover Compatible gaskets are available in a wide variety of materials but the most useful ones to us as home brewers are Silicone, PTFE Teflon® and BUNA-N. Silicone offers great heat resistance and is soft so it forms a seal very easily. Silicone sanitary gaskets are my favorite for almost any connection. Teflon® is more rigid than BUNA-N and requires a little more clamping pressure to get a good seal. It also has a high heat resistance, and it's definitely the material of choice if the connection is a rotation point like in a fermentor racking arm or rotating pickup tube.

I think the normal gasket on the racking arm is silicon. Seems to me it’d be a good upgrade to get a PTFE/Teflon gasket for that.

Brewers Hardware is great btw, used them for lots of my hot side in the past.

 

[Truman42]

So Ive just finished brewing a lager and its currently sitting at 18C. I opened the dump valve quickly for a 1 second burst and closed it again and a lot of yeast came out. I did it a second time and some more yeast but a bit of wort came out. Did it a 3rd time and it was 90% wort so left it at that.
I will try it again once Ive cold crashed for 48 hours. So your always going to lose some wort but if you allow for it in your recipe volumes its not an issue.