Braumeister NEXTGEN Build

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100mm smaller, than the main vessel, works well, so 350mm x 350mm pipe will knock out a standard double quite easily, and a large Belgian say to 1.100 of around 28L
 
Heres my new build im doing my first brew tomorrow..

I made it out of used aquamax hot water service..

I have no rod in the middle. I used a couple of stainless claw couplings.
I have a 4.5kw element in it.

Hopefully all goes well tomorrow. ..

Huge thanky to lael and all you guy's on here.

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Screen scrambled. Probably happened when element was ramping up and pump kicks on. Start of auto mode. Or after a pump rest. Just pull the power and go back to auto. Then hit resume.
 
Yeah i could do 65l easy... I only do 2 keg brews.. I will probably work on another one, but for 4 keg brews for the next project... :)
 
Regarding screen scramble, the unplug work around works. But is there a fix?

Thanks for the help!
 
claypot said:
Hey All,
First of all thanks to all who have gone before and giving your time to report back here.
Here a couple of things I have done on my rig that may suit others looking for other options.
For the bottom malt pipe seal I used a pressure cooker seal from eBay -$5 or so. You would need to be handy with a MIG welder but.
For the top clamp I used a removable brace. Will try to upload pics.
I've used a 3 way valve - $30 eBay to divert to counter flow chiller after boil. All in all it looks a lot more shitier than I'd planned but it wasn't making beer while I deliberated over how to make it look better!
I've been collecting parts for ages now and often think I should of just bought one. But where's the fun in that! All the stainless I had at home, so if you had to buy it, it may not be cost effective.
Now to try and attach pics, Cheers,
Hey All,
Just a recap on my unit. Here: http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/57924-braumeister-nextgen-build/page-83#entry1196086
The slotted lid eventually bent and failed so got some 5mm stainless plate and slotted it with super thin cut off wheels. I have had to add as many slots as possible to get more flow. As I was getting grain compaction and even with the strong set up the lid was still lifting enough to spew grain out.
The efficiency has been pretty crap also, best I had was around 65%.
The best was on a hightail ale clone, the first I have done with any darker grains.
This got me thinking maybe the mash water PH. So added a teaspoon of gypsum to the next pale brew seemed to get a better efficiency but not great.
So I'm in the process of building a new malt pipe. As the first was only around 17 lts. This time using a Big W one, with a spatter screen at the bottom instead of the cut slots.
I found a surround from an old stainless chimney flue that was perfect so migged that to the bottom of the pot so I could keep the whirlpool fitting. I even found that I could fit the pressure cooker seal to the bottom and seems to seal well although not mashed with it yet.
So I'm hoping that my efficiency will improve.
My mash has always been:
Mash in at single temp as below. Stir in well in 25 lt tap water (Adelaide)
1 - 1.2 hrs long @ single step of 66 to 72 deg depending on recipe.
Mash out @ 76 -78 deg. - 10 min.
Sparge 7 lts @ 78 deg
I was lead to believe that little was to be gained in efficiency by multi step mashing when using modern grains so only ever done single steps.
I have tried stopping the mash and stirring several times but didn't improve things.
The other thing is I only have a on / off switch for the pump so wondering if there's channelling going on as I only stop the pump 10 - 15 times as I happen to pass during the mash.
It seems I could sparge for some time more and still have good runnings.
One of my reasons for going 1V was to get away from sparging and taking too much time up.
Some numbers from one of the best ones-
4.8 kg vienna
0.5 munich 1
0.2 caramunich
1 teaspoon gypsum.
1 hr @ 67 deg
Sparge 10 lt @ 78 deg.
SG after mash 1.045
23.5 lt into fermenter @ 1.049

Any thoughts much appreciated

Cheers Clayton.

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lynchman said:
Heres a couple more pitures.. the first brew went unreal.. I couldn't be happier. .
Looks great Lynchman! So, you just twist malt pipe relative to the outer pot to engage the claw coupling for the bottom seal? Nice! How do you find them? Easy to use and engage/disengage?

Do you have any pics showing the bottom filter inside the malt pipe? How have you sealed the top filter to the malt pipe? I assume there's something inside the malt pipe that is used to screw the wingnuts down to put downward pressure on the top filter?

Cheers!
 
BobCharlie said:
Looks great Lynchman! So, you just twist malt pipe relative to the outer pot to engage the claw coupling for the bottom seal? Nice! How do you find them? Easy to use and engage/disengage?

Do you have any pics showing the bottom filter inside the malt pipe? How have you sealed the top filter to the malt pipe? I assume there's something inside the malt pipe that is used to screw the wingnuts down to put downward pressure on the top filter?

Cheers!
Yeah the claw couplings work real well..
The perforated stainless steel just sits in bottom of malt pipe as the bottoms are domed.

I just welded some m10 bolts on top and acouple of lifting lugs and wingnuts.. when time comes to pull malt out I just hook it up to my 12v winch thats bolted to ceiling of shed. And use remote as required. I use sparge water out of my 3v brewery behind it.

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For those of you with drain valves on your builds what are you doing for dip tub? I have seen bazooka screened outlets for the Braumeister. I have run 2 batches through my build and am currently working on the final details.(currently using auto syphon to move wort from kettle to carboy)

Also, I am having similar efficiency problems but have been trying to not sparge to be more automated in approach. around 60%

Thanks
 
60% ouch! Without sparging my first time using my brau clone I got 73% and haven't ever gotten less than 70% without dosrging. Any ideas where you're having issues?

As far as draining I use the stock tap on my Birko urn without any kind of dip tube and just pour it from height into the fermenter to help oxygenate. If you get a good whirlpool going you end up with very little trub in the fermenter.
 
Hello everyone.. firstly let me say its great to see this thread.. Ive been racking my brain for ages about ripping off the BM and making one myself..

I have many burning questions.. but there are alot of amazing DIY systems you boys have put together and I'm well impressed.

My first question is, is there a consensus on what is "best" to use for the control/automation side Alan Bradly or Click PLC or a simple PID combined timer loop control?? this is the final piece to the puzzle .

The [SIZE=12.6666669845581px]arduino PID is pretty hardcore to program and put an interface together.. the PLCs can be tricky and cost$.. whose using what and what are the drawbacks vs gain?? and you can get a PID controller with pt100 and 30A SSR for 40$ on ebay.. [/SIZE]

[SIZE=12.6666669845581px]I'm going to construct a purpose built system aiming for 50L wort for the fermenter .. I will submit ideas for review and red pen once I hear back... [/SIZE]

[SIZE=12.6666669845581px]thanks for your time... amazing thread. I love aussie ingenuity. [/SIZE]

[SIZE=12.6666669845581px]BR [/SIZE]

[SIZE=12.6666669845581px]ANdy [/SIZE]
 

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