Best way to improve. BIAB.No chill.

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Nick667 said:
Do you think I am adding to much air when transferring the wort to the fv with my trusty sanitized jug?
you need a good amount of O2 for fermenting, so I don't think this would be an issue.

Are you splashing it around when pouring into the fermenter ?

For me, drill hole in kettle, add valve, put wort into a cube to get it off the hot break.

As have been asked, do you have any issues ? you may be making better beer than the rest of us ?

You mentioned green apples, carbonation and head.

Green apples could be caused from a young beer, or air post fermentation
carbonation could be drinking to quickly, temp control when you're trying to carbonate.
too much head could be over carbed beer (not enough time in bottle)

there's lots of discussions on BIAB, No chill etc..
if you read them you'll see all the opinions about the "best way"
good luck
 
I misread as transferring hot but of course you're slow chilling in the kettle, then transferring so that bit is ok.
 
Do you do a mash out? If I skip the mash out I lose out 10-15% on my efficiency. I've never heard of anyone using a jug to transfer, I like the cut of your jib. Get yourself some silicon hose though, save the hassle.
 
You loose 10-15% by not doing a mash out..... :huh:


How..... ?


Something I have never experienced. All mashout does is to stop the enzyme activity which stops conversion.
 
Don't really know why, 65% with no mashout and 80% with mashout. Maybe it's the added time of the grain in the water? Or the warmer temp allowing easier suspension of sugars?
 
I certainly get some increased efficiency with a mashout. Probably around the 10% mark.
 
This might be unique to BIAB. I couldn't see a mashout helping a 3V that much.
 
Ahhh....BIAB.

The mash out temp helps rinse the sugars out, which is why its works so well with BIAB
 
Nick667 said:
Also c/o this forum I have been giving the wort a 10min protein rest @ 72deg. Now got lots of head sometimes too much.
I'm sure this is just a typo, but the common range for a protein rest is 50-53C
 
Nick667 said:
Do you think I am adding to much air when transferring the wort to the fv with my trusty sanitized jug?
As mentioned this may not be the best way to transfer but adding oxygen is a good thing at this stage but not catching dust particles in the air and putting that into the fv
 
Ducatiboy stu said:
Ahhh....BIAB.

The mash out temp helps rinse the sugars out, which is why its works so well with BIAB
The advantage of the mashout for all systems is that it takes the mash through the Alpha Amylase range to clean up any starches still lurking after a cool mash, say a 63 degree job.
 
So I am doing a mash out right?? I got the idea here because I wasn't getting enough head and it works a treat. Sometimes I have big fluffy heads that I have to let calm down before pouring into the glass.
72C for 10 mins after 60 min mash, really easy.
Somewhere in my primitive system I am getting an infection. so this week I purchased a "budget" copper chiller and will invest in a syphon. Also I am soaking everything over night in a weak solution of the pink stuff.
I am really looking forward to not having to guess the hop additions for a change.

P.S. Just bulk primed 24lts with iodised salt today. What a disaster! Had to toss the lot! didn't realise till I tasted it and would have to say, don't try this at home.
Wife put it where my sugar usually is but I should have checked. It happens with age you know.
 
72 is good for head retention but it isn't mashout temperatures. 78+ for mashout.
 
I aim for 78c mashout with BIAB. Works a treat. If you want to improve the efficiency another 5-10% you can do a mini sparge with the bag of grain in a fermenter. If you aren't using any acids in your water, then keep the sparge volume down low, because the out of whack ph festers an easier environment for extracting too much tannin.

My results for different BIAB steps:

no mashout: 65% tops
mashout: 75-80%
mashout + sparge: 90-95%
no mashout + sparge: 65-70%

I find lower end protein rests a must when it comes to brews with lots of adjuncts. For your too much head problem at 72c, maybe stretching out your mash time before raising the temp. I don't mash under 90 minutes.
 
How to mash out for new brewers who batch sparge.

When your mash time is up, grab about 3-4ltrs of boiling water and dump that in your tun. Give it a stir, let it settle for 5 then drain and rec-circulate ( dont forget your piece of foil or saucer )until the runings are clear. You will need to re-circulate a few times. Adding the extra water will help sparging, rinse more sugars out and make life a bit easier all round

Add more boiling water to the grain bed, give it a stir, let it settle then drain, re-circulate, drain into fermenter, repeat until you have kettle boil volume.

The boiling water does 2 things

1. Does the mash out stage
2. Helps dissolve more sugars into the wort.

Dont freak out like some brewers have when this method gets mentioned. Boiling water wont raise the temp of the grain as much as you think. By the 3rd sparge tour probably just getting over 80*c.
 
Although Stu's method sounds rough as guts it's basically the method that was used by the guy who regularly took out firsts in Lagers and Pilsners in the Nationals for several years, and I was his bitch at a brewday. We were both members of the Pine Rivers Club PUBS at the time. He recirculated using a plastic Big W 1.5L jug. I still have the jug as he put the jug up as a raffle prize at PUBS when he stopped brewing and took up rockabilly dancing and restoration of 1950s Chevys.
I won the jug and it has its own place on a shelf in the brewhouse.
 
Ironically I to had a 1.5L plastic Big W jug.

Its sure does sound rough, but there is no point trying to sugar coat it.

Its simple and it works, and works every time
 
Nothing wrong with the cheapo plastic jug. Another user here although mine is 2L.
 

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