5.2 Ph Stabilizer In Mash

[speedie]

Thanks for most positive comments on what was being discussed and to all of the rest of you charlatans suck eggs

If you what to throw stones make sure you hit what you throw at

You all seem to be a typical bunch of self appointed back slappers

And dont forget whom posted off topic first



Cheers speedie

Go the s/a hill tribe

 

[dalpets]

Thanks SpillsMostOflt.

Your referral to the product tech sheet (which I didn't know existed) says;

"Calculate the amount of water based on the total volume in the kettle (ex. 7bbl. Leaving kettle
use 14oz. of 52). Place 52 in the mash tun while you are mashing in. If desired, dissolve
in a small amount of water before adding to the mash."

A couple of others on this thread have said the same thing about the quantity of the addition in the mash.

Nevertheless, it also seems that what people are saying is that ones mileage will vary depending on ones location, particularly with regard to water hardness.

If that is the case it seems that the individual brewer needs, by trial & error, to manipulate the addition to ones locale and as such the product tech sheet only provides a nominal guide.

I have noted the comments made as to the efficacy of the product with interest and the suggested use, for some, of other brewing salts as a better solution to reaching optimum pH.

So I'm happy to rely now on my own experiences to find the best fit.
BTW: excuse my ignorance but what is the "bbl" referred to in the product tech sheet.

Cheers
dalpets

 

[felten]

bbl = barrel unit of measurement

 

[bignath]

I'll make this quick as i don't want to degrade dalpets thread any further. I've already apologised previously, but i cant stand this clown...

If you what to throw stones make sure you hit what you throw at...."
There's nothing wrong with my aim mate...

"You all seem to be a typical bunch of self appointed back slappers..."
No, we just know what were talking about...

"And don't forget whom posted off topic first"
Just because i apologised doesn't mean it was my fault. Just happy to be the one willing, and big enough to do so.

You found a post by "bum" contentious when he was actually correct, i stepped in to point it out...Then it all went down hill from there...

We are all on this forum to learn things about our great hobby we collectively share, and all you do is slap us in the face with your bullshit.. The sooner you **** off the sooner we can go back to learning all things usefull...

There are all sorts of brewers on this forum, some who have no idea of what they are doing, some who have a decent level of knowledge, and then those who are very advanced (winning awards, working in brewerys or with a brewing background as employment etc..) yet you still pick arguments that are clearly often misguided.


Oh, and i like this part:

"Cheers speedie"

Once again, sincere apologies to original poster - I've said my peace, and refuse to take this off topic any further, regardless what this tool comes back with...


EDIT: Formatting...

 

[Bribie G]

Thanks for most positive comments on what was being discussed and to all of the rest of you charlatans suck eggs

If you what to throw stones make sure you hit what you throw at

You all seem to be a typical bunch of self appointed back slappers

And dont forget whom posted off topic first



Cheers speedie

Go the s/a hill tribe

Whom is the accusative case of Who - for example "Who did you give that bottle to?" = "To whom did you give that bottle".
So Whom is the person that gets things done to them, whereas Who is the person who initiates the action.

 

[NickB]

There are all sorts of brewers on this forum, some who have no idea of what they are doing, some who have a decent level of knowledge, and then those who are very advanced (winning awards, working in brewerys or with a brewing background as employment etc..) yet you still pick arguments that are clearly often misguided.

Well said mate, however I will add that for the most part, those who have no idea are for the most part willing to listen to those who do know what they're talking about (the obvious exception being one Speedie...)



Now, who thinks Speedie should disappear himself rapidly.......



h34r:

 

[goomboogo]

Don't run Speedie out of town. His knowledge may be negligible. He may lack any discernible intelligence. However, his juvenile, incoherent ramblings on subjects he clearly knows nothing about are hilarious.

Speedie, don't go anywhere. I am a weak person and occasionally like to laugh at people as feeble minded as myself.

 

[MeLoveBeer]

I'm going to strongly recommend Lactic over almost any other acid.
I find that in many cases enough Citric Acid to adjust the pH correctly will come through as a classic sour lemony flavour. Citric is Triprotic with pKa's at 3.1, 4.8 and 5.4 there is no way we will get that last dissociations so the acid will come through in the beer. Lactic Acid is Monophonic at a pKa of 3.9 so we are using all of the acid.

I'm using 80% food grade Lactic Acid and taking Kunze at face value: -
60mL (72g) will reduce the pH of a mash made with 100 Kg of malt by 0.1pH.
So 6mL will drop the pH of 1 Kg by the same 1pH.
30mL (36g) will reduce the pH of the kettle wort made with 100 Kg of malt by 0.1pH.
So 3mL will drop the pH wort made from 1 Kg by the same 1pH.
Makes the maths really easy
In the Mash (6ml)*(Kg Malt)*(Desired change in pH) = mL of 80% Lactic Acid
In the Kettle (3ml)*(Kg Malt)*(Desired change in pH) = mL of 80% Lactic Acid
I.e. to drop the pH of a 5Kg mash by 0.4pH
6*5*0.4 = 12mL


Hope I haven't dropped a decimal
MHB

Thanks for the informative post MHB... will be picking up some lactic acid before my next brew on Friday. Where is the best place to source lactic acid? Is it only available from the sponsors/brew shops?

 

[MHB]

I know where I get mine

I see G&G have it listed; theirs is 88% so you will have to adjust the amount slightly, or dilute it to 80%.

I find it works well and the calculation given hits closer than my ability to measure.

Speedie might be a bit of a twat but he is right a temperature compensating reasonably good pH meter is on my shopping list, I wont be spending $700-800 on one tho, perfectly good ones can be had for a couple of hundred.

MHB

 

[speedie]

Twats that are ignorant of the correct use of the English language dont GAF

what is posted about his knowledge in brewing?

The question was asked about 5.2s use in brewing

I ask if it was tested in brewing and look at the driddle that comes back

I advocate the use of pH adjusted water in both mash and sparge

Mash in, rest, check and adjust to 5.5 with phosphoric acid (food grade)

Adjust sparge water to 5.6 heat to 80 then use for rinse

Never used 5.2 and probably never will

Mhb get your self a good quality temperature compensating meter and watch your results improve

speedie

 

[Bribie G]

Mhb's results may improve so drastically that he may even give up his day job and open a home brew business, and dedicate it to the person who caused the scales to fall from his eyes. Speedibrew - has a great ring to it. :lol:

 

[bum]

I advocate the use of pH adjusted water in both mash and sparge

Mash in, rest, check and adjust to 5.5 with phosphoric acid (food grade)

Adjust sparge water to 5.6 heat to 80 then use for rinse

I want to preface my post with the following: I'm not having a dig here, speedie. I understand that this is much of what you were getting at when you said my post was contentious and I didn't take it as a personal swipe which is I why I didn't address it at the time. This is an issue I've been thinking about ever since I decided I needed to address pH issues in my brewing and the following is based on my thoughts on the matter and not (I repeat NOT) me telling you that you are wrong in what you are saying or doing - it is me trying to work out what is best for me. I understand that you're a vastly more experienced and accomplished brewer than I and I'm not telling you you're doing anything wrong (in this one instance).

Ok, now that that is out of the way (and soon to be swiftly ignored, I'd imagine)...

I've been thinking about pH adjustments in the sparge and am basically of the feeling that it might not be the best idea. Don't we use (well, other brewers anyway) pH of the sparge runnings to tell us when we're oversparging? If we use buffers for our sparge pH aren't we running the risk of getting a "false positive" on this test?

 

[brettprevans]

not getting into the great 'does 5.2 work' or the 'is speedie a wanker' debate, and taking it slightly OT

im slightly suprised no one (that ive seen) has mentioned any tests regrading types of beers. ie dark v light. i will elaborate. darker grains will have a more acidic effect on the mash than lighter grain, espcially the roasted grains. has anybody done any tests with 5.2 on a dark batch and a light batch top see if it buffers better with the lighter beers and not the darker beers?

hypothesising based on the supposed ability of 5.2 to do a little but not a lot, then it would stand to reason that it might have a bit more of an easier time buffering against a small pH change in a lighter beer than a bigger pH change in a darker beer. or are we just assuming it either works or doesnt work full stop. no shades of grey?

another thought. I dont actually remember anyone actually ever saying that 5.2 was a replacement for manual water chem adjustments. obviously altering water chem manually and taking into account specific water chem at your location will be more accurate but takes more time.

 

[bum]

another thought. I dont actually remember anyone actually ever saying that 5.2 was a replacement for manual water chem adjustments.

This is inferred in the product description (unless I'm misinterpreting how it compares itself to brewing salts).

There has been some discussion of the effects of different malts but not to the extent you're talking about. In terms of it just working or not working it looks like most people are saying it is dependant on your original water condition more than anything else? I could have that arse backwards.

 

[argon]

In terms of it just working or not working it looks like most people are saying it is dependant on your original water condition more than anything else? I could have that arse backwards.

That's what i'm reading into the discussion at least. Brisbane moderately hard water = 5.2 effective. Melbourne soft water = 5.2 not effective. I think that's what's going on. Which i read 5.2 will buffer a little in the right circumstance, but won't overcome major swings.

 

[brettprevans]

sorry i got distracted and forgot to fully explain that comment. just forget that comment. too hard to explain what i was getting at.

in regards to the 2nd part of your post. thats my understanding

 

[speedie]

bum me old mate there is hope for us yet
come on dr dont shoulder da blame on ya self
all i am asking is just try it!
pH or not 2 pH
there is a vast amount of head retension to be had by all!
cheers enigma

 

[kenlock]

A bitter tongue makes life bitter: A sweet tongue makes life better. Anonymous

 

[NickB]

bum me old mate there is hope for us yet
come on dr dont shoulder da blame on ya self
all i am asking is just try it!
pH or not 2 pH
there is a vast amount of head retension to be had by all!
cheers enigma

Seriously dude, you're either stoned or drunk, or combination of both.

Honestly, this forum does have its fair share of bullshit written on it, but most of the time it's funny, and remotely related to the topic being discussed.

You sir, are a moron, plain and simple.

Is there an 'ignore' button on here?

Cheers

 

[NickB]

Hmmmm, tempting, although I do enjoy a good laugh and yell at the computer when Speedboat posts...