2008 Hop Plantations

[Bizier]

You might have to cut it back to a large central stem and remove the little stuff.

What use are grapes?
Hops are way better.

I think find a variety that will grow really well in your area (read: yield really well) and it will be fantastic.

 

[mckenry]

You might have to cut it back to a large central stem and remove the little stuff.

What use are grapes?
Hops are way better.

I think find a variety that will grow really well in your area (read: yield really well) and it will be fantastic.

Hi Bizier,
Cutting back to central stem is what SWMBO thought anyway. As for grapes - its ornamental (no fruit) just cool shade in summer. Was hoping to get the shade and some hops at the same time.

Others think along these lines?

 

[fraser_john]

Hops dont work like that, they die completely back to the rhizome each year. Like a daffodil or something! Nothing left above ground over winter.

 

[HoppingMad]

Silly me, of course many of you guys would be copping the heat just like me down in Mexico (Vic).
48 degrees is insane. Reckon most of us from down south would struggle to step to the curb in that heat, let alone muster the energy to put a brew on.

Will trim off the dead bines, throw in some nitrogen rich fertiliser and see how we go. Always water in the dead of night as we Victorians are on water restrictions where we are supposed to do only two splashes a week with the hose on our hops, (and mine need more right now) but take the point.

That hydroponic fertiliser sounds interesting. Does it work in open air or only under lights?

Hopper.

 

[Bandito]

It works outside - its just instant fertiliser.

 

[HoppingMad]

It works outside - its just instant fertiliser.

Sweet. Reckon I'll suss it. My Columbus in particular has been real stubborn (was a slow grower to start with) and I'd like to get a shoot going again.

:icon_chickcheers: Hopper.

 

[Bizier]

Watch over-feeding in this heat, you want new growth shoots that can hack the heat.

I'd be using something more reserved than the hydro stuff and lots of water.

 

[lochrockingbeers]

Agreed. I wouldn't fertilise anything until the heat subsides. Fertiliser is just going to make the plant work harder and want more water, and if the latter isn't there then you will find your plant isn't as well. I'd wait till the heat subsides say around end of this month or sometime in March to fertilise again. You'll typically see feeding plants in spring and again in late summer/early autumn is recommended.

Watch over-feeding in this heat, you want new growth shoots that can hack the heat.

I'd be using something more reserved than the hydro stuff and lots of water.

 

[Weizguy]

Should be OK if you never feed a dry plant. I usually provide 20+ litres of plain water to rehydrate the soil and roots before feeding with dilute nutrient.

You can shock the roots otherwise and draw water from the plant by osmosis. Some call it over-fertilisation, but we know better.

Les

 

[Brad Sofield]

pm me and i'll give you the addy for the main dude in WA, didn't want to post with out his permission, even though I'm sure he wouldn't mind. Note that this isn't the season, give it 4-6month and they will be ripe for the pickings.

Hi Smashin and thanks for your reply. If you don't mind if you could you pass the details of the WA hop grower on i'd be greatfull. Really keen to play around with grwoing hops-not sure on my locatiion and suitability of temperature etc but worth a go.
Cheers

 

[Bandito]

I was suggesting the plant hormone 'superthrive' more than hydro fertilisers - it's the hormones that will start the new growth. It only needs a small amount of fertiliser for it to work - 1/4 strength probably. I have also tried 'nitrozyme' hormone - but tests I tried showed 'nitrozyme' did nothing.

Superthrive is like viagra for plants - Although, because it is a plant hormone, I think it may be a taratagen- but not sure (causes birth defects in unborn babies), so it should be kept clear of pregnant women. When I used it I wore gloves, and washed my hands after using it just to be sure.

 

[fraser_john]

Finally got out to get some pics of my hops....

The goldings is enormous with lots and lots of cones. Cascade is first year in the ground and has lots of cones on it in the circumstances. Tettnang is stunted and suffering, but new bines coming on, so I am hopeful. I have three nursery pots going for swaps with cascade, POR and Chinook ready for this winters trade sessions.

 

[Mantis]

Looking good fraser-john :super:

 

[Smashin]

Looking good fraser-john :super:

ahhhh^&(* mantis pls post some more :icon_drool2: :icon_drool2:

oh yeah!! wd fraser-john very nice, very satisfying growing hops, mine are all in flower but a week or two behind in development. great stuff.

Anyone got any male rhizomes?? i am keen for swaps. woolven st enters breeding program. :icon_cheers:

 

[Bizier]

Anyone got any male rhizomes??

+1

Here is the update on my plantation.

Chinook

Columbus (since photo have some picked, possibly prematurely)

Pride of Ringwood

Hersbruker (since photo have some picked, possibly prematurely)

Cluster

Some of the hops were getting sunburnt, and some matched the springy/papery description, so I took a first harvest on the Columbus and Hersbruker.

In hindsight, these may be a little green, they smell very chlorophyll-y like mown lawn, though if I split one and rub it on my tongue, they taste good.

I will use the bunch of hops I have picked, if they are no good, then at least I learned something.

 

[sinkas]

Anyone got any male rhizomes?? i am keen for swaps. woolven st enters breeding program. :icon_cheers:

yep a fuggles male

 

[Smashin]

yep a fuggles male

Am keen sinkas, got any pics of the lil fulla,

 

[Back Yard Brewer]

Well the time is nearing where I can pick my first small crop of Mt Hood. They with stood the heat quite well, I think I was lucky that they were reasonably well advanced in their growing stage. The same can't be said for my poor POR I got from the case swap. But give it some credit I have noticed a few flowers trying to raise their ugly head. Now all I need to do is read up on when the best time for picking flowers is.

BYB

 

[HoppingMad]

for anyone who has lost hops due to hot weather cut them right back and keep watering then and they should come good again. all three of mine have sprung back to life nicely.

Done exactly that Fents and everthing now coming back. Have one Golding stalled but will persist and hopefully will get a new shoot. Looks like I'll be harvesting Hersbrucker cones this season (only plant in semi-shade to remain unscathed by our crazy Mexican (Vic) weather) and not much else, but the zomes will live to grow another year which is a good thing.

Hopper.

 

[raven19]

Now all I need to do is read up on when the best time for picking flowers is.

Extract from here... http://www.blueandgraybrewingco.com/hopsfarm.cfm#1 (Care of Dr Smurto's earlier link if I recall correctly - have this one bookmarked now!)

Happy harvesting.


Harvesting
Hop harvest in the Pacific Northwest usually runs from mid August to mid September, depending upon the variety. If you want to use your hops for ornamental purposes, pick your hops early. Otherwise hand pick hop cones and dry them in a food dehydrator.

To determine ripeness pick a cone and touch and smell. If the cone is too green it feels slightly damp to the touch and has a softness to its scales. If you squeeze the cone it will stay compressed in your hand. A dry cone will feel papery and light. It will feel drier than a green cone, some varieties take a lighter tone as they mature. If your hands quickly take up the smell and are slightly sticky due to the yellow powdery lupulin, your hops are ready for harvest.

To harvest, cut the vine at the bottom leaving 3-4 feet of the vine to lay on the ground and cut the string at the top. Lay the vine on the ground and pick off the cones. The harvested vine can be mulched, burned, or woven into a wreath. When handling fresh hop plants wear long sleeves and gloves because the hooked hairs of the plant may cause a slight rash.

If you choose to construct a dryer, good airflow is essential, and the temperature must not exceed 140F. Drying hops at a lower temperature takes longer, but a better quality hop is obtained. For drying the low-tech way, you can use a window screen. Spread the hops evenly across the clean screen. Place the screen off the ground and in an enclosed area to keep wind and bugs from creating problems. A healthy vine will produce 1-2.5 pounds of dried cones per plant.

The dried hops are ready for storage when springy to the touch and the yellow lupulin powder easily falls out. Another indicator is when the central stem breaks rather than bends. The stem takes much longer to dry than the petals. Cones are best stored in plastic bags that can be sealed. It is important to make sure the cones are sufficiently dry. If cones are not properly dried, they become moldy, wilted, or even rancid and cannot be used for brewing. Fill the bag until the cones are well compressed. Once the bags have been sealed and properly labeled store them in a freezer. Thawing and refreezing stored hops reduces quality and freshness.