Wtb: Auberins 40a Ssr

[Crusty]

As above.
Sparky fried my SSR with wrong polarity wiring, ( FFS )
Need one ASAP.
Cheers

 

[mgill]

As above.
Sparky fried my SSR with wrong polarity wiring, ( FFS )
Need one ASAP.
Cheers

Don't know if this helps, they usually have next day delivery.

I am assuming it was 12V switching 240V

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...mp;form=KEYWORD

 

[Crusty]

Don't know if this helps, they usually have next day delivery.

I am assuming it was 12V switching 240V

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...mp;form=KEYWORD

Thanks mate for that.
Have had a look around some Aussie distributors & have sourced a $40.00 one but $19.00 from auberins. I was hoping someone here had a spare one lying around.
Cheers

 

[mgill]

Thanks mate for that.
Have had a look around some Aussie distributors & have sourced a $40.00 one but $19.00 from auberins. I was hoping someone here had a spare one lying around.
Cheers

Understand your pain, they are expensive. It all comes down to time versus money. The only positive is they usually arrive overnight from Jaycar... not much help for the weekend though.

 

[Crusty]

Understand your pain, they are expensive. It all comes down to time versus money. The only positive is they usually arrive overnight from Jaycar... not much help for the weekend though.

My sparky is coming back on Tuesday to re-install the SSR & wire my Rims element up.
It was his stuff up frying the SSR but he's doing the work for beers so $40.00 for the SSR is getting off lightly really.

 

[mgill]

My sparky is coming back on Tuesday to re-install the SSR & wire my Rims element up.
It was his stuff up frying the SSR but he's doing the work for beers so $40.00 for the SSR is getting off lightly really.

its a pretty simple concept.. + and - is like A and N. One is the source the other the return. Slightly concerning that such a simple mistake could be made... No wonder ELCB's are mandatory.

 

[NickB]

Yep, shouldn't be that hard. DC input from the PID or other controller (+ and -), switching a 230v load (the element). When the PID detects the temp too low, sends a DC signal (5-12v usually in these) to the SSR, which in turn switches the element on.

Not hard to work out, and I'm only a second year apprentice. Obviously your sparky hasn't worked with SSRs and/or can't read.... ^_^


Cheers

 

[Crusty]

its a pretty simple concept.. + and - is like A and N. One is the source the other the return. Slightly concerning that such a simple mistake could be made... No wonder ELCB's are mandatory.

It's not that hard really & it is wired correctly, just no power reaching the element. The red diode light on the SSR is on, but nothing sending through. Contacted auberins & there is a possibility the SSR is faulty.

Yep, shouldn't be that hard. DC input from the PID or other controller (+ and -), switching a 230v load (the element). When the PID detects the temp too low, sends a DC signal (5-12v usually in these) to the SSR, which in turn switches the element on.

Not hard to work out, and I'm only a second year apprentice. Obviously your sparky hasn't worked with SSRs and/or can't read.... ^_^


Cheers

Correct. He has never worked with SSR before or PID for that matter. He has wired my MashMaster, PID & pump via the control box & everything is working correctly.He knows it is wired right, just baffled why the unit is on but lack of power to the element.

 

[mgill]

It's not that hard really & it is wired correctly, just no power reaching the element. The red diode light on the SSR is on, but nothing sending through. Contacted auberins & there is a possibility the SSR is faulty.



Correct. He has never worked with SSR before or PID for that matter. He has wired my MashMaster, PID & pump via the control box & everything is working correctly.He knows it is wired right, just baffled why the unit is on but lack of power to the element.

Start with the basics, check the supply voltage is being switched from the PID (12V across the + and - terminals). Make sure the supply voltage and current is sufficient to trip the SSR (they will usually have a range 5-32Vdc or similar), Check the Low voltage supply has sufficient current characteristics to switch the SSR (often given as a coil current or resistance... yes I know it is an SSR but the datasheet will describe as such)... If all that is good, check the voltage across the output terminal to ground (or earth... but a rudimentary way of doing so), The side which is being switched through the SSR should be 230V when on and 0V when off. If not... then I would assume the SSR is stuffed!

BTW... Get the Sparky to do this!

 

[NickB]

Indeed.

These things shouldn't be hard. I would assume a wiring diagram is supplied or easily available. I know I've wired up another brewers' STC-1000 with nothing more than a wiring diagram (had never seen one 'in the flesh' prior to that).

Anyway, good luck getting it all running!

Cheers

 

[matho]

to be fair most house sparkies wouldn't touch panel wiring with a 10 foot pole so all credit to him for having a go and doing it for beers

crusty on HBT another person is having trouble with a SSR and was posted this about testing an SSR , play it to your sparkie and it might help him test it.

cheers matho

 

[Crusty]

Indeed.

These things shouldn't be hard. I would assume a wiring diagram is supplied or easily available. I know I've wired up another brewers' STC-1000 with nothing more than a wiring diagram (had never seen one 'in the flesh' prior to that).

Anyway, good luck getting it all running!

Cheers

Thanks mate.
Got a wiring diagram of matho & all good, wired correctly.

to be fair most house sparkies wouldn't touch panel wiring with a 10 foot pole so all credit to him for having a go and doing it for beers

crusty on HBT another person is having trouble with a SSR and was posted this about testing an SSR , play it to your sparkie and it might help him test it.

cheers matho

Great video thanks matho. Will test the SSR out to be sure.
Cheers

 

[spog]

google images has a lot of info,pic's for ssr,pid etc. i found interesting and it is tagged with sites that have the required info.....cheers........spog.........

 

[stew.w]

also just because the output of your ssr has 230 volts doesnt necessarily mean it has switched, mine has 230v the whole time but doesnt let any current through until switched.

 

[Crusty]

also just because the output of your ssr has 230 volts doesnt necessarily mean it has switched, mine has 230v the whole time but doesnt let any current through until switched.

How can you tell it has switched? By the red diode light?

 

[Crusty]

Ok.
SSR turned out to be fine, no new one required.
Sparky has it all sorted & done a water test on the PID. Very happy with the performance, almost zero overshoot & holding temps beautifully with the 2400watt element in the Rims tube. I ran an autotune & it's working perfectly.
Thanks again matho for the wiring diagram, much appreciated mate. :icon_cheers:

 

[stew.w]

you can tell its switched on mine by the light on it, but you could also meter the amps with an amp clamp.

Cheers,

Stewart

 

[DJR]

You've solved it but for future reference these guys have cheap Hongfa (same as that Jaycar one above) SSRs: http://www.futurlec.com.au/RelSS.jsp

No affiliation, just used them to get my 10A and 40A SSR units. 40A one is $17.90 plus shipping, much cheaper than Jaycar although shipping usually takes 1-2 wks (mine came from Thailand)

 

[Crusty]

you can tell its switched on mine by the light on it, but you could also meter the amps with an amp clamp.

Cheers,

Stewart

I had the diode light on, but nothing coming from the SSR. He changed something around & working perfectly now.

You've solved it but for future reference these guys have cheap Hongfa (same as that Jaycar one above) SSRs: http://www.futurlec.com.au/RelSS.jsp

No affiliation, just used them to get my 10A and 40A SSR units. 40A one is $17.90 plus shipping, much cheaper than Jaycar although shipping usually takes 1-2 wks (mine came from Thailand)

Looks good, thanks for the link.

Cheers