Quantcast

Wtb: Auberins 40a Ssr

Aussie Home Brewer

Help Support Aussie Home Brewer:

Crusty

The Electric Brewery
Joined
29/6/08
Messages
2,618
Reaction score
601
Location
Yamba, NSW
As above.
Sparky fried my SSR with wrong polarity wiring, ( FFS )
Need one ASAP.
Cheers
 

mgill

Active Member
Joined
26/5/10
Messages
37
Reaction score
0
Thanks mate for that.
Have had a look around some Aussie distributors & have sourced a $40.00 one but $19.00 from auberins. I was hoping someone here had a spare one lying around.
Cheers

Understand your pain, they are expensive. It all comes down to time versus money. The only positive is they usually arrive overnight from Jaycar... not much help for the weekend though.
 

Crusty

The Electric Brewery
Joined
29/6/08
Messages
2,618
Reaction score
601
Location
Yamba, NSW
Understand your pain, they are expensive. It all comes down to time versus money. The only positive is they usually arrive overnight from Jaycar... not much help for the weekend though.
My sparky is coming back on Tuesday to re-install the SSR & wire my Rims element up.
It was his stuff up frying the SSR but he's doing the work for beers so $40.00 for the SSR is getting off lightly really.
 

mgill

Active Member
Joined
26/5/10
Messages
37
Reaction score
0
My sparky is coming back on Tuesday to re-install the SSR & wire my Rims element up.
It was his stuff up frying the SSR but he's doing the work for beers so $40.00 for the SSR is getting off lightly really.

its a pretty simple concept.. + and - is like A and N. One is the source the other the return. Slightly concerning that such a simple mistake could be made... No wonder ELCB's are mandatory.
 

NickB

I haven't had a C**t all night, Drinkstable....
Joined
29/6/06
Messages
4,436
Reaction score
191
Yep, shouldn't be that hard. DC input from the PID or other controller (+ and -), switching a 230v load (the element). When the PID detects the temp too low, sends a DC signal (5-12v usually in these) to the SSR, which in turn switches the element on.

Not hard to work out, and I'm only a second year apprentice. Obviously your sparky hasn't worked with SSRs and/or can't read.... ^_^


Cheers
 

Crusty

The Electric Brewery
Joined
29/6/08
Messages
2,618
Reaction score
601
Location
Yamba, NSW
its a pretty simple concept.. + and - is like A and N. One is the source the other the return. Slightly concerning that such a simple mistake could be made... No wonder ELCB's are mandatory.
It's not that hard really & it is wired correctly, just no power reaching the element. The red diode light on the SSR is on, but nothing sending through. Contacted auberins & there is a possibility the SSR is faulty.

Yep, shouldn't be that hard. DC input from the PID or other controller (+ and -), switching a 230v load (the element). When the PID detects the temp too low, sends a DC signal (5-12v usually in these) to the SSR, which in turn switches the element on.

Not hard to work out, and I'm only a second year apprentice. Obviously your sparky hasn't worked with SSRs and/or can't read.... ^_^


Cheers
Correct. He has never worked with SSR before or PID for that matter. He has wired my MashMaster, PID & pump via the control box & everything is working correctly.He knows it is wired right, just baffled why the unit is on but lack of power to the element.
 

mgill

Active Member
Joined
26/5/10
Messages
37
Reaction score
0
It's not that hard really & it is wired correctly, just no power reaching the element. The red diode light on the SSR is on, but nothing sending through. Contacted auberins & there is a possibility the SSR is faulty.



Correct. He has never worked with SSR before or PID for that matter. He has wired my MashMaster, PID & pump via the control box & everything is working correctly.He knows it is wired right, just baffled why the unit is on but lack of power to the element.

Start with the basics, check the supply voltage is being switched from the PID (12V across the + and - terminals). Make sure the supply voltage and current is sufficient to trip the SSR (they will usually have a range 5-32Vdc or similar), Check the Low voltage supply has sufficient current characteristics to switch the SSR (often given as a coil current or resistance... yes I know it is an SSR but the datasheet will describe as such)... If all that is good, check the voltage across the output terminal to ground (or earth... but a rudimentary way of doing so), The side which is being switched through the SSR should be 230V when on and 0V when off. If not... then I would assume the SSR is stuffed!

BTW... Get the Sparky to do this!
 

NickB

I haven't had a C**t all night, Drinkstable....
Joined
29/6/06
Messages
4,436
Reaction score
191
Indeed.

These things shouldn't be hard. I would assume a wiring diagram is supplied or easily available. I know I've wired up another brewers' STC-1000 with nothing more than a wiring diagram (had never seen one 'in the flesh' prior to that).

Anyway, good luck getting it all running!

Cheers
 

matho

The Braumiser
Joined
30/4/08
Messages
1,403
Reaction score
141
to be fair most house sparkies wouldn't touch panel wiring with a 10 foot pole so all credit to him for having a go and doing it for beers

crusty on HBT another person is having trouble with a SSR and was posted this
about testing an SSR , play it to your sparkie and it might help him test it.

cheers matho
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Crusty

The Electric Brewery
Joined
29/6/08
Messages
2,618
Reaction score
601
Location
Yamba, NSW
Indeed.

These things shouldn't be hard. I would assume a wiring diagram is supplied or easily available. I know I've wired up another brewers' STC-1000 with nothing more than a wiring diagram (had never seen one 'in the flesh' prior to that).

Anyway, good luck getting it all running!

Cheers
Thanks mate.
Got a wiring diagram of matho & all good, wired correctly.


to be fair most house sparkies wouldn't touch panel wiring with a 10 foot pole so all credit to him for having a go and doing it for beers

crusty on HBT another person is having trouble with a SSR and was posted this
about testing an SSR , play it to your sparkie and it might help him test it.

cheers matho
Great video thanks matho. Will test the SSR out to be sure.
Cheers
 
Last edited by a moderator:

spog

The Odd Drop Brewery
Joined
10/4/04
Messages
3,416
Reaction score
989
google images has a lot of info,pic's for ssr,pid etc. i found interesting and it is tagged with sites that have the required info.....cheers........spog.........
 

stew.w

Well-Known Member
Joined
30/6/08
Messages
246
Reaction score
5
also just because the output of your ssr has 230 volts doesnt necessarily mean it has switched, mine has 230v the whole time but doesnt let any current through until switched.
 

Crusty

The Electric Brewery
Joined
29/6/08
Messages
2,618
Reaction score
601
Location
Yamba, NSW
also just because the output of your ssr has 230 volts doesnt necessarily mean it has switched, mine has 230v the whole time but doesnt let any current through until switched.
How can you tell it has switched? By the red diode light?
 

Crusty

The Electric Brewery
Joined
29/6/08
Messages
2,618
Reaction score
601
Location
Yamba, NSW
Ok.
SSR turned out to be fine, no new one required.
Sparky has it all sorted & done a water test on the PID. Very happy with the performance, almost zero overshoot & holding temps beautifully with the 2400watt element in the Rims tube. I ran an autotune & it's working perfectly.
Thanks again matho for the wiring diagram, much appreciated mate. :icon_cheers:
 

stew.w

Well-Known Member
Joined
30/6/08
Messages
246
Reaction score
5
you can tell its switched on mine by the light on it, but you could also meter the amps with an amp clamp.

Cheers,

Stewart
 

DJR

I'm out
Joined
7/2/06
Messages
2,205
Reaction score
30
You've solved it but for future reference these guys have cheap Hongfa (same as that Jaycar one above) SSRs: http://www.futurlec.com.au/RelSS.jsp

No affiliation, just used them to get my 10A and 40A SSR units. 40A one is $17.90 plus shipping, much cheaper than Jaycar although shipping usually takes 1-2 wks (mine came from Thailand)
 

Crusty

The Electric Brewery
Joined
29/6/08
Messages
2,618
Reaction score
601
Location
Yamba, NSW
you can tell its switched on mine by the light on it, but you could also meter the amps with an amp clamp.

Cheers,

Stewart
I had the diode light on, but nothing coming from the SSR. He changed something around & working perfectly now.


You've solved it but for future reference these guys have cheap Hongfa (same as that Jaycar one above) SSRs: http://www.futurlec.com.au/RelSS.jsp

No affiliation, just used them to get my 10A and 40A SSR units. 40A one is $17.90 plus shipping, much cheaper than Jaycar although shipping usually takes 1-2 wks (mine came from Thailand)
Looks good, thanks for the link.

Cheers
 

Latest posts

Top